iPhone 5の音量コントロールとパワーボタンケーブルの交換

Hi every one i drop my iphone5s 16gb

I replace 10!new screen but cant back to live i see on the "logic board" where u conect the screen i se damage HOW CANT FIX THAT WHITOUT LOST MA DATA ??? Thaks for anny hellp!!!!!

Ordered and received the Phillips #00 Screwdriver ($5.95 · 50+ In stock). It is a tiny Philips screwdriver. The screws next to the lightning port have tiny star-shaped holes. I will have to find a different screwdriver.

Wish I ordered a back case as well with my repair being so easy!

Now here's an issue that would seem to apply to many users doing this repair: if the screen is nonfunctional, how do you power-off the device? When I dropped my iPhone, the screen went almost completely dark, midnight blue, actually. I can use the power button at the top of the phone to turn the display on and off, but I can't get the phone to power off. Seems the only way to do it is to wait until the battery is exhausted.

Protip: take all the soda out of a case of pop and complete the repair in the empty cardboard tray. That way if you drop a screw it won't go flying off the table.

Ok, at the end of the repair, I tried to use the new pentalobe screws that came with ifixit replacement battery but they did not seem to fit. So, reverted to the original pentalobe screws for the final step to close up the phone. Beside that, everything went smooth. I also skipped the steps about detaching the frontpanel (seems not necessary if only replacing the battery)

Weirdly I had to use two different screw attachments to remove the pentalobe screws so possible they use different screw heads for each one sometimes.

The “Pentalobe” screws require the STAR DRIVE driver, NOT a Phillips driver.

The iSclack is a marvel. I've had it in my toolkit for a while but this was its first use. I recommend this tool.

Step 4 is a bit dangerous, as the Display is pulled out very fast and (depending on the position, the suction cups are placed at) it could stress the cabels connecting display and mainboard. So, please, hold the phone with finger and thumb at the top, to avoid the display is pulled out to fast.

I sure wish they did a better job showing in the video how hard it is to take of the front screen without the iSclack tool!

I had to position the suction cup _over_ the home button in order to get the screen far enough away from the frame to slide my trim tool in there. Putting it down above the home button just wasn't working at all...

Was someone able to answer this question? I have the same issue

without this suction cup clamp thing, removing (and replacing) the screen was the hardest part of this job. Especially when the screen is cracked badly as the suction cup loses suction due to air leaking through the cracks. In this case, use tape over the screen to create a smooth surface. ***Also, the screens have rubber running along the side, so use a heat gun or hair dryer to make the rubber softer for removal of cracked screen and installation of replacement screen

I found it was easier to start opening from the top left of the display and working straight down towards the home button as there are no clips in this particular area. I realize there are cables on the right side right next to the area, however, this way requires less force as a starting point. Let me know what you think.

I think that's not a good idea as the top of the display is held in place with plastic tabs.

If you apply to much force they can break.

This part was the most frustrating part of the guide, granted I didn't do the whole thing. I was expecting to slip the plastic separator tool in-between the case and the display. This did not happen and I ate away at the tool in the process. For me after much pushing on the top edge of the case and pulling the screen away it released all of a sudden. I managed to make a dead stop at 90 degrees, but felt like I almost ripped off the ribbon cables(I didn't).

No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the screen to separate far enough to where the pry tool could get it. Reading through some of the other comments, I followed 2 other people's advice to work the bottom left corner above the headphone input and then use a pushpin at the same time. (this is not recommended, but it worked!) I made a couple of hard to see marks in the corner but was finally able to get the screen off. I also did NOT take off the connectors to the screen and skipped the next few steps all the way down to step 14. Looks like a lot of people damaged their phones that disconnected the top screen.

I'd recommend to use packaging tape to attach the upper edge of the display to the back of the phone so you won't rip off the ribbon cables if the display suddenly comes loose.

I took the suction cup off of an old navigation Tom Tom and it worked great!

My battery needed replacement because the battery had swollen and was warping the glass. Looking at it from the side it looks like gasket that was partly sticking to glass and partly to the case. This is actually part of the glass frame and you need to make sure to separate it from the case not the glass. I did it wrong and ended up removing the glass but there was a metal case covering the inside. I eventually got the rest of the top off but now I'll have replace it all because I can't find a good way to glue the glass to plastic.

I initially had trouble, but focusing on the area of the faceplate right above the headphone jack worked for me. There's a slight divot that allows you to slip in the prying tool earlier than in other places around the faceplate. Once I got the prying tool in there, I was able to pop out the bottom, and then continue up the sides.

IMPORTANT TO NOTE: The top of the screen is attached to delicate cables inside the phone! Pull up carefully and keep a hand on the top of the screen so it doesn't pop up.

My iPhone 5 only had a weak battery. Now it has a cracked glass panel. Suction cup is strong - so strong the glass breaks before the suction cup lets go. Apparently some of the tolerances in Apple's design occasionally add up to make a front panel assembly that refuses to let go. Phone not worth repairing at this point as it only cost $190 refurbished to begin with. A note of warning - you might want to have this done by an experienced tech - go ahead and spend the $100 or so to have someone experience replace the battery and keep the rest of your phone intact.

The suction cup with the blue plastic handle that came with the kit did not work, but I still had the cup with the silver ring that came with an iPad repair kit and it worked nicely. Also, I found that the guitar style picks that came with the iPad kit worked best for getting the screen started.

Top center worked for me best (success after 2nd attempt). Near the home button I failed constantly (I have the suction cup with the blue handle).

I also found that a larger suction cup (from a Garmin GPS) which spanned the width of the glass screen worked better than the provided one.

The suction cup didn't work, because of my destroyed front glass.

So i take "tesa powers trips".

With that help, i had enough force to pull up the front display from the rear case.

Suction cup didn't work for me. I tried for half hour with my nerd biceps. In the end, I inserted an xacto blade below the home button to create a gap big enough for me to put in a guitar pick and finally able to pry it open. In the process I scratched the frame so you have to be very careful if you decide to take this approach.

Where can you buy "Tesa Powerstrips?

The glass on my phone was completely destroyed, making the suction cup entirely useless. I was pretty close to giving up when i tried putting a strip of clear packing tape on the screen and squishing out all the bubbles. Put the suction cup on this and it worked perfectly.

Thank you. I broke the front glass with this technique..

Used a suction cup from my Garmin Navi. The one you use to stick it to your windshield. It has a nice plastic "handle" and made things a lot easier... almost too easy that I nearly pulled the screen off the cables. Go easy on this step.

I'd Advise Against The Suction Cup Here As It Will Separate The Glass From The Black/White Framing That You're Actually Supposed To Pry Under. I Found When Using The Suction Cup, The Glass Came Up, But The Framing Stayed Stuck. If You're Replacing The Entire Display It's Not As Much Of A Problem, But If You're Installing Any Other Part Or A Custom Housing, You'll Notice Your Screen Has A Bit Of "Play" When Pressing Down.

I've been using a metal flat opening tool along with the suction cup to pop these bad boys open - remember the tape on the screen trick if you have a smashed screen - so the suction cup can grip and stops the glass going everywhere!

Definitely a difficult step. Make sure not to pry the screen from framing. Also, I kept pushing the power button on while attempting separate the frame. Keep your fingers clear from the top of the phone because having it turn on while the casing is popped is a little nerve racking!

I had trouble with this step too, since I had to apply quite a lot of force on the suction cup when pulling up on the screen while holding down on the frame with my fingernails. Eventually it popped free, but came almost to 90 degrees before I was able to stop it. No damage, but nerve-wracking, and if there was a better technique, it would be good to figure it out and share the information here.

Be very gentle! I overdid it and, though the repair was successful, there's now a bit of play when pressing on the top right quadrant of the screen.

When i was reassembling, the screen broke form the pressure. I recommend putting the screen towards your working surface and press your phone downwards. That way your screen is always straight.

My front panel flew right off after some puling on the suction cup - no prying was necessary.

Fortunately, no cables got damaged. Take care.

I can confirm, the Garmin sucker cup worked like a charm. Within 5 seconds it popped open.

everything worked but i got a problem i hope anybody can help me very fast !

when i lift the screen up it just lift the glass up not the whole display ....

what should i do ??

thanks in advance

Need extra careful while pulling the screen.

Once there is a gap between the screen and the frame, insert the plastic opening tools and move it around the screen. But don't use it for top area (near to power button) as there is a location for flexible ribbon cable.

Once the bottom part is free, the screen will pop out easily.

Suction cup is very difficult with a cracked screen. Stick something in the ear jack and carefully push it and the edge of the screen will pop up. Use the plastic stick to open it.

I had trouble opening the screen due to a warped suction cup that was bent up at one spot and also due to my cracked screen. My solution: used double sided tape between the suction cup and the glass. I had some command strips, but I think any double-sided tape could work.

Use needle its a best way

I could never even get the case open. Waste of $30.

The suction cup will hold if you put a piece of tape over the cracked screen.

BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL, HERE!!

-The repair went horribly wrong during this step, for me. I pulled-up on the suction cup, gradually increasing force. Instead of just opening a gap to get the plastic prying tool into, the whole thing gave way at once. This damaged the connection between the display assembly and the rest of the iPhone.

-During this step, I would recommend placing a rubber band around the phone, over the home button and one near the top of the iPhone for good measure. Even better, invest in the "iSclack". In my case, it would have saved me about fifty bucks and three days without a functional iPhone.

-When I reassembled, The screen was blank, but I could still sync with iTunes. I may have been able to replace only the cables, but I wasn't sure how extensive the damage was and I was done messing around with it. I replaced the whole display assembly, and now it works just fine.

-This was STILL cheaper than buying a new phone, and I learned a lot. Overall, it was a good experience.

my phones screen displays the dead battery sign and the plug below it sign too, when your phones battery is dead. Bought a new battery and charged overnight...... any ideas?

Was someone able to answer this question? I have the same issue

1. This is very difficult, you have to use much more strength than it appears and it's very easy to rip out the connector cords. Mine did not rip, thankfully.

2. Upon replacing the screen, I had to do this 3 times, I would not recommend putting the screws back in but turning on the phone and testing all screens before putting the panel back.

3. When I finally managed to ensure all displays were working, I was pushing the screen back in and cracked the glass just below the home button. This part is very sensitive as it is the thinnest portion of the glass so be careful and ensure you push from the top and go all the way around. I also had to do this twice because after cracking the glass on the first try, I also realised the top was not fully pushed back.

We highly recommend using the iSclack tool for opening the phone up. It simply pops it up with very little effort, and you won't risk damaging your screen or device.

My older phone had a swollen battery, it turns out it had distorted the display assembly enough that the suction cup only separated the screen from the display assembly. Not good.

I was in no mood to pay for the special tool and wait for it. Took the "right of headphone jack" suggestion and pushed down vertically at the edge of the frame with a "ice pick" sharp tool, " I had two of them. Who cares if you scratch the frame a little, I usually have my phone in a protective case anyhow. I kept working with this until the corner was up, and then the rest of the display was loose without any further work.

My phone is in pristine condition for a 5 year old phone, I have no cracks to speak of on the glass and the suction cup that ifixit sent me doesn't stick to the glass.

Holding the other side (top of the phone) down with another hand is extremely important. Plenty of people have damaged their screens by pulling the panel right off, ripping all the cables.

I made a series of gentle pulls and the front panel came up without problems. The opening started to appear next to the audio jack, as other people indicated. Then, I used the pry that came with the kit and the panel opened easily.

Upon reassembly, I cracked the glass at this step. The top of the screen seemed to have too play in it and on my phone—I suspect from right side brackets that may have been damaged already. Was nearly finished and applied too much pressure? to the top of the screen area to get it back into position. Snap!

I pulled and pulled on the suction cup with no results then read the comments! Ugh! Found a kiosk at the mall that will replace battery for $15. Should have saved the cost of tools. They were very pretty and well packaged though! Good fortune to all that succeeded.

Suction cup does not work. I also had to use the Garmin suction cup

while opening the front panel, i lose control and it gone so fast. And now, after putting it back, the screen is not working. What am I supposed to do? I dont have any other phone in hand and I need to repair it immediately.

as I wanted to close the display again, the sealing ring wasn't attached to the edge of the glass anymore. did someone have the same issue? thx for help!

When reattaching the screen, please start from the top. BEFORE you try to push the bottom of the screen down and snap it in, use some pressure from the bottom edge to push the screen towards the top of the phone. I suggest that by the time you get to the middle of the phone (starting from the top), you do this. It will allow for getting the clips at the bottom by the sync cable clipped in and will sit nicely and allow for you to use overall pressure to make sure the whole screen is secured. I didn't do this and I damaged the seal on the right side of the phone and almost separated my screen from the digitizer trying to reseparate it to reattach the screen. Be very carefull to follow these steps I listed. If you do this while reattaching the screen, you'll have no problem.

Be careful taking the front panel off. I tried to pull it very careful but it ripped. One of the cables was damaged but luckily, it was the cable that goes out with the old front panel. It also ripped 4.1 mm Phillips screw from step 13 and it jumped to the floor. I was lucky and recovered it from the floor.

In the end everything was fine and phone works great. But remember to be super careful.

BE VERY CAREFUL!! While trying to open the phone, I was must've tried a little too much and the screen came off in one shot, and it damaged the ribbon cables. Screen didn't turn on, and it cost 100$ to repair. BE VERY CAREFUL.

Hello guys, I would like to first thank iFixit for these amazing repair guides they have always worked for me! Thank you!.

When reassembling the phone make sure to put the screen from top to bottom, but be aware there are 2 small flaps on the top left side of the screen (you can notice them using another iphone as a flashlight) if you don't put these 2 flaps first then you are going to have a little space between the top part of the screen and the aluminum frame, at least this happened to me and then I inspected the screen using a flashlight and then I found these 2 tiny flaps behind the screen near the top left corner.

I hope it helps!

Hello, I've changed the earphone piece on my iPhone5 following this guide but I've skipped from step 9 directly to step 17 without problem, just shutting down first. Once opened I've tied the iPhone's body vertically to a small box with an elastic ring, the display assembly resting horizontal at some 90 degrees allows enough place to unscrew and replace the earpiece.

So easy! My biggest problem is my eyesight. LOL! Had to wear glasses and use a magnifying glass. Battery took about 20 minutes. Re-installing the cover for the screen ribbons was the toughest for me. If you cant see...have someone hold the screen while you gently wrestle the screws, while holding the plate, back in.

Worth adding to the main tutorial that the screen re-install must start from the top.

I found the suction cup to be very effective in removing the front glass. Didn't take that much force to start to see the glass separate from the frame. It's a lot easier if you have a fingernail you can insert when you start to see the glass separate from the frame so that you can let go of the suction cup ring and grab a spudger to pry down one side and then the other.

When reassembling, be sure to work from the top down to get the screen display in place. There are three hooks at the top that need to be seated otherwise they will bend and prevent the top from popping in flush.

Add a rubber band in the picture as mentioned, I couldn’t figure out how it should be positioned, also put in instructions that front panel does not have to be disconnected as I agrree with some of the other comments it is difficult to reattach the plate, although it may be a lot easier to pry the battery out without messing with the vertical top. Otherwise, great instructions, thanks Ifixit,new iPhone battery is wonderful. Bil - 1/16/2018

When reassembling, note the black jumper cable that runs next to the battery ribbon cable. Sometimes this jumper comes off its little groove and can make seating the battery ribbon cable tricky. The black jumper should travel up that little ramp and then curve to the right.

A note about screw management: ALWAYS remove screws from left to right if you are just putting them in order of removal on a magnetic trey, it helps with re-assembly. If you can, I recommend getting a magnetic white board and writing the size of the screws on it and categorizing by that, it makes it way easier and you won't ever have to worry about putting the wrong size screw in anywhere ever again.

What length are these screws?

Any risk if I put wrong screw?

So without ph#0000, i'm screwed, right?

I managed to remove all the internal screws with PH000 that came with the ifixit battery replacement kit

It helps if you have fine pointed forceps to remove the thin delicate plate after removing the screws. long pointed forceps also help in placing the screws into their holes when you're putting everything back together at the end.

Be very careful with the screws. I almost lost one of the battery ones. No replacement screws in the kit. You can buy them on the web, but that takes time.

I can’t remove these screws with the tools provided. I’m returning this. Useless.

ifixit should include replacement screws in the kit. i lost one and the plate is now held with one screw. Also the video leaves ALOT out. Plus no need to take cover off; you can replace battery easily without doing that step.

A 0000 Phillips screwdriver did seem to fit the screw heads better.

I can also confirm that the Phillips 000 that came with the kit did not work on these. I used another screwdriver from a glasses repair kit and that worked great. Seems odd they would include a tool that is unable to remove the battery connector bracket. I would have been up a creek if I didn’t have the right tool already.

The PH000 worked fine for me.

Gale Benson, April 28, 2018

The screws have, indeed, Phillips 000 heads. The problem can be that the Phillips 000 driver BIT supplied with the repair kit is of INFERIOR QUALITY! I have extensive experience with Phillips head screws, and no amount of firm pressure and proper driver seating would loosen the screws. I found a micro-tool kit I had for repairing computers, grabbed the Phillips 000 bit, and it worked PERFECTLY! The instructions are pretty good, but the QUALITY of the tools supplied is a real PROBLEM.

I had this iPhone 5 battery changed previously at the Apple Store Manchester Trafford on opening the front it was clear that the red screw was missing and only the other screw was in place…. presumably an apple store screw up.

When I did this strep the battery connector (step 12) came with it. There seemed to be a bit of adhesive but it wasn't hard to separate them after the fact.

Note the long, thin forceps in the photo. These aren't included in every vendor's tool set that ships with the replacement battery and I found it a necessary tool not only for removing this particular plate, but also for positioning the screws back into their holes when you're putting the thing back together. If your replacement kit doesn't include that tool, they're only a couple of bucks and you can get them at any computer geek shop like Micro Center.

Oh my God.

When prying, make sure you do it from the TOP or far TOP RIGHT corner using ONLY a spudger, and NOT like it is shown here on the picture.

There is a component next to the battery connector that is easily torn off the board if you're not careful. It's a common mistake made by somebody who have never done the repair before. This will make it so the phone looks like it's charging but only ever discharges. The component is the filter for the gas gauge line which is directly to the right of the battery connector and is extremely hard to see. They look like a tiny-tiny silver cylinders and you would need a microscope to actually be able to distinguish them.

Hope this helps.

The replacement battery out of the ifixit box: The connector may not fit immediately to the contact on the logic board. I needed to bend the stiff (metal-like?) cable quite a bit to find a shape of the cable that allows the connector to fit to the contact.

Ditto the comments by Salta. I compared the iFixit battery cable to the battery cable of the one I had removed and found that I needed to kind of crimp the cable a bit where it needs to fit between the battery and the connector. It's all quite stiff. Make sure the connector snaps into place!

Re-attaching the battery connector was tricky. Make sure you align the pins well. Otherwise you may bend them and that could be a big problem.

Why do I need to take the battery out? I replaced battery a few weeks ago and it seemed no need to disconnect the screen as well.

They seem recommending taking out connections more than necessary. Anyone let me know why leaving the battery there would make a problem for replacing the screen.

Rule #1 on electronics repair methodology: to prevent damage to the electronics, power should be the first thing to be removed and the last to be restored. I'd disconnect the battery before touching anything else, a slip of the screwdriver or a loose screw could cause a fatal short circuit.

It's no need to remove front panel to change battery. I just skip to Step 10 and successfully changed battery, and it works well. And THANKS TO ifixit.com, IT IS AWESOME!

I skipped steps 6-9. leaving the screen attached to the phone makes it that much easier and quicker to repair

Mon téléphone a pris l'humidité et présente un fond d'écran d'aspect granuleux. Du coup l'éclairage n'est plus uniforme, nuisible pour une bonne lecture de l'écran.

J'ai démonté l'écran, une pellicule grasse et collante entre le LCD et la plaque métallique. J'ai nettoyé à l'alcool. Tout remonter avec la crainte que le téléphone ne fonctionne plus.

Le téléphone s'est rallumé, tout fonctionne normalement mais j'ai toujours ses traces sur le fond d'écran. Il faut le changer!

Mes difficultés étaient de remettre les petites vis aimantés, difficiles à remettre!

Merci à IFIXIT pour ce tutoriel très explicite.

Patrick Rosa, june 23 2014

So, of COURSE I dropped the screw that you are not supposed to lose. I was being careful, but as I did not want to lose track of it, I attempted to put it back ing the phone FIRST. Bad idea. This makes the plate kind of springy, and my screwdirver slipped, and the screw popped up, spun in the air, fell between my legs, bounced off my padded chair, and clattered around on the floor. I searched for an hour, and could not locate it. BE IT KNOWN, at least in MY CASE, the screw WAS INDEED attracted to my magnet (I keep a powerful round magnet stuck to the shaft of my drivers to provite the magnetism, far more powerful than a regular magnetic screwdriver. This being the case, I WAS able to provide a substitute fron a bag of iphone 4 screws, and my compass calibrated flawlessly upon power-up. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY, but I thought I'd add my experience.

I did the repair without disconnecting the screen. I skipped down to step 13 and carefully held the screen while removing the battery. Adds a small element difficulty, but helps prevent all the issues others are having when reconnecting the screen.

One of the screw is completely stuck and I cannot remove it! What can I do?

Como se ha comentado más arriba, no es necesario desmontar la pantalla, yo he sustituido la batería aplicando calor con el iOpener y siguiendo atentamente la guía. Resultado óptimo.

Yes, right! I, too, do not see the need to remove the LCD display at all; except, when one is replacing a broken display. The battery is ready for replacement once you had removed its bracket.

I found that it wasn't at all necessary to remove the front glass. I did need to use a hair dryer to soften the glue holding the battery, but I simply laid the phone down on the face glass and blew the hot dryer on the back for a couple of minutes at almost point blank range. Then I simply held the phone open with one hand, making sure the front glass never went back more than about 80 degrees (no need to stretch it all the way to 90 degrees), and used my other hand to work the spudger around the battery, making sure not to touch any delicate electronics in the area. The top right corner gave away first and then I worked it down from there and the battery came out pretty easily. The trick is to use the hair dryer for a few minutes beyond the phone being too hot to hold in your hand! (you might need to use a towel to pick it up when you pry the battery out.)

The battery of my 2012 iPhone 5 was working well but started to inflate pushing the front panel assembly out from the case. Replacing is faster and easier than on iPhone 5s. No need to remove the front panel completely, just holdig it at near 90º is enough but needed to warm the case to soften the battery glue. Thanks to iFixit for this guides and you guys for your comments.

As other people already indicated, steps 13 to 16 are not needed and risky. I asked another person to hold the front panel at 70 degrees while changing the battery.

I rushed in and did steps 13 to 16 without reading the warning. There were some unexpected events that happen. The short version of this story is my screen comes up with funny looking grey squares but phone is still usable. I don’t care as my main phone is an iPhone SE and I bought the battery as a learning exercise. Plus iOS 11 doesn’t install on an iPhone 5 so it’s days are numbered as a productivity tool.

Long version. Dissemble was easy. I made sure I had used the phone so the battery was warmed up . First problem with reassembly is in step 13 the bottom most 1.2mm wasn’t biting and screwing in. So it looked like the top of the hole got threaded. Also a screw fell out of what I think is the loud speaker. That was unexpected. This iPhone 5 isn’t my original, it was a replacement phone that came in a white phone that the Apple Store gave me when my original phone from 2012 had 2 recalls on it. So I strongly suspect this is a factory refurbished phone and not 100% mint off the line.

Great Guide, Any idea what else could be wrong if Ive replaced the screen with a working 1 and the phone still has no display?

Thanks for any insight in advance.

When you reverse step 7, make sure you clip the little hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone. If you don't, the phone won't snap back together properly.

I've misplaced this metal plate AND the three screws and two pentalobe screws. I think my wife threw out the ziplock I had them in. Any chance you can tell me where to get them? thx

Don't forget to clip this in flush, my phone couldn't get a cell signal when it was slightly out-of-place.

I really wonder about the wisdom, and risk, of removing this upper plate in step 14 - unless I missed it, those three cables are NOT connected to the battery in anyway - and the chances for stuffing up said cables re-assembly are moderate to high! I can see that one would have to be careful taking that bracket and disconnecting those three cables ( I certainly was), but it looks to me like there's a case for just undoing the battery bracket & screws and carefully - very carefully - with great patience and some good spudgers, esp the black ones we use in desktop iMacs, - flat one end; pointy the other - plus the usual blue plastic ones and even a guitar pick - prying the battery out from its hideyhole! Much less stress regarding the upper bracket and the three cables while only a bit more stress over releasing the battery from its sticky grip! Anywho, I might have to stand corrected - but next time I'll go for this abreviated method. :)

please do not do this part....after you remove the bracket over the battery don't mess with the 3 cables at the top or remove its bracket. Just carefully remove the battery and insert the new one. the idea of using the rubber band helped a lot with the entire procedure and i did it in one very easily. thank you ifixit and most importantly the comments. Make sure to read all the comments before doing each step even when you r reassembling.

I confirm the previous post! It’s the third times I change the battery and I just realize this time that it’s completely useless to remove the front panel. You just have to be careful if it’s your first battery change because the original one is strongly sticked on the board. Don’t be brutal! Proceed slowly.

I think that lots of problem may occur when you reassemble the front panel cables. So just don’t disconnect them !

Ifixit is great. The comments are usefull too.

I also made the mistake of trying to remove the cable bracket. Once again I had to resort to another screwdriver since the included 000 in the battery kit did not work on these. But once I got the three screws removed I noticed the bracket’s top corner (near the top of the unit) was stuck even when I properly pulled the bracket back to unhook the lip from the logic board. I tried pulling it free every which way but nothing seemed to work so that’s when I checked the comments here and realized I shouldn’t have even bothered trying to remove it.

Can I leave the bracket out? Does it have any shielding or antenna function? It’s hard enough to get the replacement screen in without it…

I agree, it is not necessary to remove this cover or the cables underneath. nothing is covering the battery so just pry it out. I had the battery changed in less than 10 minutes.

The part itfixit sent only has two cables: the digitizer and LCD are combined into a single cable. (And the guide is great! Thanks!)

After replacing the screen I was presented with a no image screen (but backlight was ok), so I refited the shartered one, same issue, no image, but backlight. thinking I might damage the pcb, I just did a power cycle (disconnecting the battery) and now it's fine.

so... always powercycle :)

Be very careful here, at this point the phone power is live! a slip of the connectors or a loose screw could let the magic smoke out of the chips (chips won't work without their magic smoke, you know :-)

I'd disconnect the battery before messing with the connectors.

This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on. And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off (since you presumably tried to power on). That's also nerve-wracking. I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again. On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector.

The hint to disconnect the battery was very useful for my successful repair. After rebooting the phone everything was working just fine. Thanks!

BE CAREFUL HERE.

Take a good look at that camera loosely sitting there. It is possible that it will be slightly offset when shutting the assembly back into place. This causes it to not properly focus on closeups. If you don't move it around you will probably be okay.

Also, look at the display assembly, it has three small locking tabs that can bend easily if not pushed in at the right angle into the iPhone frame. Be careful not to be too forceful. Good luck.

When I was reassembling this the front facing camera cable was a bit longer than the previous one. I had to kink the ribbon cable a bit to get the connection to line up. Everything seems to be working but I wanted to note that the part might be slightly off spec.

I am very satisfied with the replacement display assembly (including FaceTime camera and Home button) iFixit sent. It arrived a day early, fit perfectly, and has fixed the color banding, cracked screen, and scratched edges very well. In addition, the home button now has a much crisper "click" to it, more like the new MacBook's keys vs those of an older MacBook Pro.

This step is not needed to remove the battery and complicates the process by having to reconnect the sensors.

if my lcd metal plate is scratched can i replace it to remove the lines or do i need a new lcd

In the image you can see the camera has lifted out a bit. Mine did this too, because the old screen had levered it out. To push the camera back into position you need to insert a fine tool behind a small metal spring contact because it catches on the camera's casing otherwise. This little spring is to the left of the metal case, between the camera and ribbon.

Great pics too. Pls confirm if the three photos in Step 15 only show removal of 2 of the 3 connectors mentioned in the instruction (and colored bullets). I could not tell which was the third one to remove in the three photos. Thanks!

So I keep getting the "white lines on the LCD" bit with no resolution. I've tried reconnecting the connector like 6 times and power cycling and I get the exact same thing every time? Is it possible that the replacement screen has an issue?

May I ask what the 4th little connector is that comes from under your battery and connects to the board mine came undone during repair and won't go back in

Watch the soft pad between the rear camera enclosing and the top side of the frame, especially when reassembling. After replacing the battery, my camera pictures gradually showed lots of dust spots. I opened the device again and discovered that the pad had been displaced. However, I am not fully sure if that is the reason for the spots.

On reinstall, I can't get the connectors to line up and the replacement screen has 3 connectors where as my busted screen had only 2. The cables on the replacement screen are too short? Is that even possible?

It is very important to make sure the cables are fully seated. When I finish assembling the phone I too had a vertical white stripe on the display. I disassembled the phone and reconnected the cables very carefully, and also made sure the shield was properly seated. When I turned the phone back on I found a very faint white line, but after doing a power cycle it disappeared to my great relief. Also, I would definitely recommend removing the display because it’s so hard to get the battery out you don’t need the extra risk of damaging the display.

On reinstalling the front panel assembly, I had a difficult time lining up the digitizer cable. After struggling with it for a while, I noticed that the plastic shoulders of the small mounting bracket at the ends of the pins had become rounded over. After cleaning these up with a razor blade, everything slid together perfectly. Thanks so much for these guides and all the helpful comments!

My display was not turning on and my home button was not working (I verified this by trying to activate siri which didn't work). When I replaced the display assembly everything works except for the home button. Since this assembly comes with the button and the ribbon cable, I'm not sure what else can be wrong. I checked the contacts on the phone and I see the little copper 'pins' sticking out. I can't tell if they are making contact since the display has to be closed, but it appears they are lined up correctly. Does anyone have any suggestions or ways to test the contact pins? Could the home button on my replacement be defective? I've already emailed support, but just curious if anyone has any suggestions I could try while waiting to hear back from them. Thanks! By the way, SUPER grateful the rest of the display works. I can now back up my phone and can probably deal with a broken home button if I need to. Woohoo!

I'm having issues where the screen jumps around when you get a finger near it. I'm reading it might be grounding but no idea where any tape could be applied. Replaced the screen twice thinking it was a bad part. Now, I just don't know.

I didn't need to remove the battery to complete the steps after.

I was very surprised by how much heat I needed to apply to loosen the glue. I used a blow dryer and then heated up a rice-filled pillow-thing I use for sore muscles. I put that inside a plastic bag to avoid the moisture and pried while phone sat on that. It was hotter than I would normally make it for muscles! But that did the trick. Still had to pry pretty hard and it finally let go with a bit of a snap. I just pried with a spudger at the open space along the left side of the battery, about mid-way up.

I found this step to be the hardest part of the repair. A hair dryer on the back of the phone worked best. I broke the plastic tab right away and then used the black spudger along the outside to gently pry, stopping repeatedly to reheat the back of the phone. The battery finally released with a cracking sound. When I repeated this process on my second iPhone, I used more heat and worked more slowly and had better results — in fact the plastic tab didn't even break.

This is a great guide; thank you ifixit! If you’re just removing the battery, there’s no need to remove the display; just be careful with the cables. Use heat right from the beginning. I used a hair dryer or heat gun. Heat the body of the phone under the battery for 2 -3 minutes. Then carefully and steadily pull back on the tab. Apply consistent even force. The battery will pop out to the left and the tab that you pulled on should stay with the phone for next time. Good luck!

The hair dryer trick on the back of the iPhone did it for me.

Best product for releasing pressure sensitive adhesive is UNDU Scrapbookers Adhesive Remover (hexane). Been using it for years on many things, including iPhone 3G battery. Worked a treat. Needed about 5 drops on the “underside” of the plastic tab so it ran round the corner to the gap between the plastic/battery and the tacky adhesive. I started with 3 and added a couple more when the battery was partly loose.. Gentle firm pressure pulling up the tab. No risk. Adhesive dries out and is ready to work again on new battery.

I was using the phone beforehand watch YouTube videos to make sure the phone and battery was warm before opening. Didn’t have much trouble getting the battery out.

I haven’t tried the iOpener, but a MacBook Pro power adapter works well as a heating pad, matching the length of the battery. I just set the phone half on the power adapter and half on the iFixit tool box, and waited 10min for the glue to loosen.

Just wanted to add to these comments, the clear plastic tab (says Authorized Service Provider Only on it) is the way to go. The plastic for this tab goes under the battery and around and through the adhesive, if you pull it at a 45° angle the battery comes off without the need to pry on it at all. You will want to pull with a constant force, as the adhesive is very strong, but it starts fairly easily, and comes up evenly-- you'll be able to see the glue releasing as you pull.

Depending on exactly where your battery is glued, you will (or you won't) have enough room for the plastic opening tool. I didn't and had to leverage off the other side. Unlike the front cover which required surprisingly little force to remove it (almost ripped the flex cords joining the front and the back), the battery required superhuman strength to remove, destroying the two spodgers (parts yet to be found they flew off with such force) and deforming the battery (which personally I would have no use for reusing in any case).

Reading other comments of how applying too much force caused breaking of components I was too timid and the battery removal process was very time consuming. I recommend watching the video in the battery replacement guide. I was able to see how much force was being applied to remove the battery. I found that the opposite end of the plastic removal tool was bitting into my hand, which was more sensitive to the required pressure than that applied to the components. The adhesive was quite strong and I used the point end of a spudger to gradually pry up the battery where it was most stuck at the bottom right. As useful as the comment about using the plastic tab was, mine was slightly cut by the edge of a flat cable, it split and the tab came off, making prying the battery necessary. Being mindful of the balance of force is what makes the removal successful.

I use credit card and put wider side to pry battery this make batter not deform easily

do not pry on the logic board side pry for the volume keys side this

I can confirm with con (mar 4). The adhesive was pretty firmly holding my battery down. So I used a metal screwdriver to help leverage the battery out from the top of the battery. Not knowing that the ribbon for the volume button and switch from the left side of the phone were under there. I severed the ribbon and now those buttons don't work anymore. But I was able to replace the battery and everything else works fine. I just have to learn how to live without those buttons anymore...

*My plastic tag ripped while trying to pull the battery out.

*I then used a spudger type tool to GENTLY pry the battery out from the LEFT side of the case in the middle of the battery.

*Turns out all the adhesive is on the plastic tab side underneath the battery, so it is MUCH easier to leverage the battery out that way without causing damage. There is nothing you can really hurt on the left middle side either so I recommend this way if your plastic tab does not work to pull the battery up.

I couldn't pull the battery out after pulling on that tab for over 10 minutes. I used a knife on the left side where it seemed nothing was and luckily the battery slid right out no problem.

Try heating the phone at the back where the battery is with a heat gun or hair dryer (what I used) and then pull the tab, and if you still can't get the battery to start coming of give it a little nudge with a prying tool at the top.

The battery was really glued down tight, and pulling the plastic tab eventually ripped the tab off and I could no longer use it. After 15 minutes of gently lifting with the plastic opening tool and getting nowhere, I followed the suggestion about using a hair dryer to soften the glue. I blew heat on the back of the phone where the battery is for about 30 seconds, and then used the plastic tool on the side of the phone with the volume buttons, and it lifted out with very little resistance.

I want to stress that it was not a ton of heat--I held the phone in my hand while using the hair dryer, and it was hot on my hand but never so hot that it burned me. The point isn't to cook the phone, just to warm up the glue so it gives a little.

Prying from the volume side will also reduce the chance that you dislodge the GPS connector.

Well, the battery was really giving me problems when trying to remove it. I had no chance just using the plastic tag so I had to pry it loose. I would not recommend prying the upper side of the battery as shown in the pictures due to the audio control and power button cable running just under the upper edge of the battery. I was not aware of this cable and ended up damaging it when the plastic removal tool slipped under the cable when prying. I believe this cable supplies power to the vibrator as well since that's what ended up not working when everything was back in its place. Fortunately this cable can be replaced but it looks like a bit of a hassle but i'll try. Try using the hair dryer before prying too much would be my recommendation.

The word "pry" should not appear anywhere in the this section as the damage others have experienced witness. LIFT instead with the end of the tool. hairdryer really helped with softening and loosening the glue.

Just an advice:

I think it is needless to remove the battery at this stepp. I have remove the battery at last.

It would have been helpful if the notes for step 16 (prying out the battery) had mentioned that the Audio Control and Power Button Cable is fragile and behind the top of the battery! I was gently prying out my battery from the top when I tore the power button ribbon that I could not see.

This step is the toughest one. My old battery glued on the board stubbornly and refuses to come out. It took me half hour or so to pry it out. It has deformed and way beyond usable state. The key here is to pry from all allowed angles (refer to the pictures and video), and pry patiently. Mine starts to come out after prying from the top.

When prying the battery off at the first battery position shown in the picture (the gap between battery socket the battery itself), a small rounded metal spudger (like the one that comes with the iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit) is recommended if you break your plastic prying tool (like happens to me) during this step. Just make sure that when prying up, you are not touching either the battery socket nor any other logic board component.

I also recommend to use a tool like the iOpener and put it on top of the battery for few minutes to reheat the battery and soften the battery adhesive during this step.

I just wanted to mention that the battery can be VERY DIFFICULT to pull out. I used the plastic tab, but it broke off. I was forced to pry it out, but like I said, it didn't come out easily and the battery was all mangled by the time I pulled it free from the adhesive. This guide tells you where to pull and where to be careful, but it still made me very nervous! Just keep working at it if yours is also stubborn.

I would suggest using both the clear tab and the plastic opening tool simultaneously to be able to remove the battery.

Easy does it on this step. The adhesive is very strong. I though my battery wasn't going to come out. But even prying from all three indicated locations does it eventually.

Love how the battery changed to an iFixit branded battery, in the phone!!!!

I was able to remove the battery after applying the iOpener twice for about 10 minutes. I pulled at the plastic tab and used the plastic opening toll together. The battery lifted while applying permanent strong force.

How about using a suction cup on the battery, along with a pry tool?

I followed this advice above: “ I noticed that there is an ideal prying point on the opposite side of the battery from the plastic tab (an inch below the volume buttons)”. Worked really well. I did not have to use any other prying point. The battery was fixed with one drop of glues and with tape sticky on both sides.

I have removed the battery in many iphone 5 phones to repair other issues and never had a problem with reusing the battery.

Charge *. .

Quick tip: Don't completely peel away the plastic from the base of the phone. The plastic has a mechanical (but not electrical) purpose and should not be removed. The step directions make it seem that you can peel away the plastic, but don't do that. Peel and pry the battery out but leave the plastic in place. I made this mistake and Apple wouldn't repair my iPhone because the plastic was missing. The guy said that the plastic holds the circuitry in place and away from the battery. Do not remove the plastic.

My iphone 5 keeps switching from vibrate to ring randomly on its own. Do you think this would solve the problem"

Well, I followed all the instructions...took some time/muscle to get both the cover off and the battery out. I followed all the instructions and when I put it back together, all I get are white lines on the screen. shoulda paid the extra $50 for apple to do the battery replacement.

TO ANYONE HAVING GPS ISSUES

After replacing my battery on iPhone 5, my GPS was shotty and couldn't pinpoint my exact location. Opened it back up and realized that that longer thiner cable running the length of the battery on the circuit board side wasn't clipped in its spot. WORKS LIKE A CHARM NOW!

BLACK SCREEN AFTER INSTALL ISSUE:

The first time I put the phone back together, I turned it on but had a black screen. I took it back apart and put it back together again, same thing. I thought that I must had torn something but kept tinkering with it. I discovered that some of the foam adhesive strip that goes on top of one of the wiring harnesses that snaps the screen back to the phone had come off and was actually on the receiving side of the wiring connector bracket (probably not using proper terms here). I used the plastic tool that came with the kit and removed it (I was careful not to touch with my fingers for fear or oil getting on the harness). Tried again still nothing.. thankfully I did not give up as it turns out that connector on the far right of the screen connection harness is tricky. I thought I had heard it click before, but I really looked at this time and realized I had to turn it slightly inward to get it perfectly straight, and then it clicked. Success! Hope this helps someone.

I thought I'd done something wrong because my phone would not turn on.... even after a few hours. I finally charged it overnight and then did a hard restart (holding the power button and home button at the same time) and it worked! I have no experience doing this sort of thing and it was a little intimidating, but the video really helped, and it was manageable... not easy, but if you have the motivation and steady hands you should be able to pull it off.

I thought I did everything correctly but my phone didn't power on as I thought it should. I went back and double checked that everything was connected correctly (which I hope it is and I didn't damage anything in the process) I figure maybe the battery has to charge but usually once it plugs in after a few minutes it shows that its charging and in this case it is not charging. Also, I received a liberation kit with a small piece on it. Can you tell what this is for?

This is hard. Tab broke pretty easy and a hair dryer did nothing. I put a plat in the microwave with a large bowl of water under it. Heated it till I could barely touch it and then laid the phone on it. Make sure the plate is big enough for the whole back of the phone to touch it. Leave it on a few minutes and the phone should get pretty hot but still touchable. I GENTLY pried at the top and on the outside edge and it came out fine. Patience is a huge virtue on this step.

I can't get the new battery connector to snap into the port. This doesn't seem to be mentioned as a problem step for other people. Any hints?

oops, figured it out, battery was for 5s, not 5

When you install the new battery, if the compartment is a bit larger than the battery, push the battery over to the side wall and leave about 1mm space between the battery and the electronics. This will give you more room to place the battery cable with the proper twist.

By the way, it's easier if you first plug the battery connector into the board on the phone and THEN position the battery into the battery compartment. This way you'll have the greatest degree of freedom to position the connector for proper insertion.

Have followed all instructions and was careful and I think everything is intact but on trying to charge am not getting anything. Will try leaving it plugged in to charge overnight as per someone's suggestion above. But if anyone has any other suggestions as to things to look out for / check if I can put right on reopening then these would be much appreciated!

REMOVING THE LOGIC BOARD ASSEMBLY IS COMPLETELY UNNECCESSARY FOR THIS REPAIR!!!! The dock connector flex cable can be slid under the board wihtout removing it. I just did it myself without a problem.

Stages 16-27 need to be removed from this guide!!!

That's true... no need to remove the MLB. The cable slides out easily.

Agreed - steps 15-27 can be skipped if one is just replacing the speaker. I completed mine today with these very helpful pictures and descriptions.

Actually, you can skip 16-19 and 23-27 -- I found the others to be necessary.

I also think you can probably skip removing the battery altogether - I removed it just to be safe, but do not think it was necessary. That said, removing the battery gave me more room to work with (or seemed to, at least).

Absolutely true. For replacing the dock connector, there is no need to remove the logic board! Just skip the corresponding steps. Removing the battery or disconnecting the display is (strictly speaking) not necessary either. However, I would strongly recommend to do so for convenience.

This tear down and these comments were my lesson to read ahead here. My phone has been in pieces because I do not have the finger to get the antenna cable back on. REALLY wish I would have seen these comments and skipped these steps.

My phone had the bracket attached to the camera and snapped off. When I put everything back together my bottom mic stopped working. Could this top logic board bracket not being attached anymore cause this?

What if I broke the tiny grounding tab next to the rear camera that he warns against? Is it possible to find this replacement part?

This is important and left out.

First Connector - Lift from the top of the phone to the bottom.

Second Connector - From the top right corner of the connector lift straight up. It will go to the left.

Third Connector - Hold the second cable back and again lift from the top right corner of the connector and it will go to the left.

What exactly do wedisconnect?This is not adishnetwork?And whatif oneconnectordivorced?Will thenetwork?I have a problem.iPhone5looking for a networkand can not find.

Some here states they are hard to remove. I used one of my Philips screw drivers. I'm not sure what type, but it removed the two screws easily. In the years that have past, doing repairs, I have got a lot of different equipments. Just be sure to use exatly the right screwdriver.

When putting this back together, you may find this bracket gets in the way of clipping the battery connection back on. If you do, losses the screw and swivel the bracket out of the way.

In my opinion spudger form the left side lifting to the right.

Before continuing to step 24, ifixit forgot one step !! you should peel carefully the ribbon flex cable of the dock and then remove the snap-on connector, then bend them down as already shown in step 24 - otherwise you can damage the main board !!!

Using a flathead driver for the standoff screws is actually very irritating. Funny thing, if you just use the pentalobe driver you used to take out the first two screws for the iphone, the standoff screws come out very easily (I think this was by design, since the pentalobe driver fits snuggly into the opening of the standoff screw).

The top/right standoff 2.7mm screw us made from aluminum. It is not equivalent to the remaining two 2.7mm standoffs. It should be kept apart and put back in its exact place.

If you happen to mix it with the other 2 screws, it is easy to differentiate: since it is made from aluminum, it will not stick to the tip of the magnetized screwdriver or the magnetized mat.

The "2.7" mm screws are not phillips screws. The center hole is threaded to receive other screws. If you look at the previous steps, you can see the screws that screw into each one. While the instructions talk about a flat-head bit, I suspect there is a special bit for these, a "+" shaped bit, possibly with a recessed center (hard to tell without more magnification than I had.) Without that tool, the best alternate is a flathead. I would avoid using a bit in the center hole, since it may damage the threads.

- pentalob - did not work for me

- metal splunger flat side - did not work

- flat head that came with the ifixit kit, no size worked

- what did work was another set of nice miro-screwdrivers. The flate heat second from the biggest fit in the slots good enough. The little bastards are on there tight!!

The 2.5mm flathead doesn't fit the standoff screw. I used a 2mm flathead, but I had to be very carefully because it may be easy to slip.

A little sad that I don't have any flathead tips and missed that they were needed! Bah. Anyhow to make this standout even more? I have the iOpener with a decent assortment of tips so my overconfidence made me miss the requirement. Thanks.

I use the 1,5mm (ifixit) - works great!

My spudger tip broke-off inside one of the standoff screws, so after trying a few things to clear the plastic tip manually, I just took the standoff screw out and held it up to open flame. The tiny bit of plastic burned-away in no time at all and after cooling the standoff screw down, it worked just fine again :-)

When reassembling the logic board in the case make sure the logic board connector for the Power/Volume cable is not under the logic board.

I second John Mihalko's comment - when reassembling the logic board in the case, make sure the button assembly cable (from step 18) is not under the logic board. It was a bit annoying to almost get to the end of this repair only to find I had to go back and take the logic board back out again. Argh.

I've had to open this phone twice at distant intervals and I made this mistake both times. This should be included as a note, because it seems to be a common error.

Note: when reassembling your device, be sure that the lower interconnect cable is not tucked underneath the logic board.

Ohh yes. I made that mistake too. None of your buttons will work if it's tucked under.

See the yellow/orange circles? I thought I already remove it but it turns out I only remove the top screw. There's actually "another" screw in the "same" position, which is in disguise because it looks like a hole. It needs a rather small flat screw head to remove. I kept pulling the circuit board out but couldn't because I didn't know it. Be careful!

Lors du remontage il faut être vigilant à ce que le câble d'interconnexion inférieur ET !!! le câble d'ensemble de bouton (celui de l'étape 24) ne soient pas insérés en-dessous de la carte mère.

I didn't bother taking the antenna cable off the board. I just had it flexed back and worked on removing the camera with the cable still on. It's only two screws and one connector to swap the camera out. Found it a little fiddly disconnecting it so if you have trouble just leave it on and work with the slack.

I believe there are three washers on the case side of the logic board that can come loose at this point.

A note when putting it back together make sure that the antenna cable does not get stuck under the logic board.

what happens when the new logic board replaced?

Guys, there is no need to remove the logic board at all. Just disconnect battery, remove loudspeaker, and remove charge port. Boom.

i agree with josh, if speaker seems to tight to get out then loosen a few of the bottom board screws...

I’m glad Josh said that ,I was just thinking why is the logic board being removed when it isn’t necessary ,loosing the screws should be enough s the speaker assembly can be removed.

Seems to be missing a step to remove the screw from the plate that holds the power button in.

I don't think you really need to remove this rubber bumper.

Is this the rear microphone between the rear camera and the flash LED ?

If you only take off the top screw on this bracket and just loosen the bottom one you can spin the bracket out of the way. This helps you when putting everything back together. YOu don't have to align this little bracket while holding a screw and screwdriver.

I lost the One 2.9 mm standoff screw , please let me know where can I buy new screw

I had an interesting discovery when I got to this step. The 1.6mm Phillips screw indicated in this guide was not a Phillips screw head. Mine was more of a circle. It's like it was stripped already. My magnifying glass is not great so I couldn't see if it was stripped or if a different bit was needed. I ended up leaving it in and just swinging the bracket to the right just as the5dunhams suggested. Thankfully it worked and I was able to continue on my 4.5hr repair (problems arose during the start of the installation process). Everything now works. It's weird using my power button since it's been broken for a couple years. Thanks.

Step 35 picture 2... these guides rarely if ever miss/skip steps.

There's a metal 'hinge' on one side of the power button. When reseating this has to face upwards(side of the screen) else it wont click.

The power button is glued on the right side to a piece of foam. I found it easier to push the power button in without completely removing it (let it hinge on the foam/rubber), then slide the flat cable out with a pair of tweezers. Re-assembly should be easier and quicker this way.

I replaced the cable with the power switch AND put everything in a replacement housing. My power button clicks and works fine, but it a bit loose, so as if there is about 0.5mm space between the button and the switch. In the original state from the factory, the button sits tight. Anyone an idea?

I put my lock button into the hole and when I tighten it up the power button is loose and moves around abit. I’m not sure what has happened.

Make sure you have removed all 3 screws connected to the vibrator since the bracket is welded on the motor house.

I can't remove the top screw for some reason, should it be any different from the rest?

When reassembled I noticed that when I firmly tightened these two screws tagged with orange circle , my ringer switch was stuck and didn't move. So I left these two screws little loose and ringer switch worked fine. Now I have used my phone couple weeks and there has been no problem with these loose screws.

on my device the red circled screw is completely different. Under my magnifying glass the head is round. Don’t know how to unscrew. There is no fitting bit in my ifixit Pro Tech Toolkit. :(

I didn't see mention of it, but I found the ringer switch button would slide down to OFF during reassembly, so I made sure the new ringer switch was also set to OFF before screwing all back together.

I found removing the hinge that secures the power button to require more force than I thought necessary. Seemed to be the most difficult part of the repair. When installing the new AC/PB cable, i started with this assembly and worked backwards. Would have been helpful to include a good set of tweezers in the repair kits for those with fat fingers like mine or who don't have a pair at home.

To make this step easier you can slightly lift the microphone with a spudger. This way the ribbon doesn't have to bend so tight.

This is tricky during reassembly. A pair of tweezers can help here. And take your time. As Johnny indicates, there is concern about the amount of flat ribbon bend required to place this piece into the hinge properly.

here is a good video for reassembling the flex cable. It is not simply "everything in reverse". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NeW5Lzt...

The ribbon is sitting under the wifi cable. It's best to unclip the wifi cable and bend it aside.

What do you need a heat gun for ?

Thanks

Great article!

Thanks

I had to reboot the iphone after because the display not turn on;

I reboot holding power + home per 20 seconds;

Attaching the new ribbon cable to the ringer switch is a challenge. First of all its difficult to remove the old ribbon cable from the bracket that holds the ringer switch. I had to break away the 3 plastic studs that hold them together and then find something pointy like the sim removal tool to punch the old plastic anchors out of the bracket. When you connect the new ribbon cable to the bracket, you'll notice that it is not entirely secure to the bracket. I used liquid nails to glue it on very carefully. Others have used a sodering iron to melt the studs in place. It going to require something to keep the ribbon secured to the cable. Otherwise the switch will work its way out from the bracket and your silence feature will not work. One last technique is to place the battery right up against the cable to provide extra support.

As noted in comment section under 'Guide' and this step, attaching the new ribbon cable to the ringer switch and volume up and down, is a major challenge. I had the same experience punching out the 3 plastic studs. When I resembled the ringer switch (to go to vibrate only) and the + volume didn't function. Rather than using the same metal brackets and a new cable I searched eBay and found you can get the cable and the brackets (including the metal bracket holding the power) already assembled. Just search eBay for "Flex Cable Metal Bracket Assembly iPhone 5" and there are a couple of sellers in the US and China that sell these; and they are only a few dollars more than just the cable. Then you don't have a problem with this tricky part of the guide. Ifixit should inventory Flex Cable Metal Bracket Assemblies too.

Fully agree that the guide downplays the actual difficulty of reusing the existing mute button bracket. Dettaching the bracket from the old cable with a heat gun is difficult. In my case I ended up with the old cable totally broken (no way back), and the plastic studs embedded in the bracket holes. I had to use a small drill at low speed to clear out the studs (not something everyone has available, specially if not forewarned).

I agree the procedure would be much more predictable if a new bracket was sourced along with the cable.

Hey iFixit, I have a faulty power button(or flex?) in my iPhone 5 and its eligible for free replacement by Apple!

But sad thing is it was purchased in Singapore and now I'm from India and I can't get my iPhone to there to replace it :/

Can I buy this iPhone 5 Audio Control and Power Button Cable

and get it fixed??

Is this what the problem on those faulty power button cable iPhone 5s?

If the 3 plastic studs break off in the mute bracket, the broken studs can be pushed through with a small wire. The face plate is held on by foam only.

Great instructions, Had similar issues with he mute button, had to break off old one and use a soldering orin to fix new one on by melting the studs. Power button was tricky, foam bumper did not come of cleanly. Otherwise a great, nerve wracking couple of hours thoroughly enjoyed and successful.