はじめに
Replace or upgrade the CPU. Don't forget to apply a new layer of thermal compound before reassembling your iMac.
Follow our thermal paste guide for instructions on cleaning and preparing the thermal surfaces and applying a new layer of thermal compound onto the CPU and GPU dies.
Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.
Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.
ツール
パーツ
パーツは必要ありません。
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Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.
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With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.
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If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
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Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.
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If there is a wire or cable underneath adhesive tape, always pull the tape off first.
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If the cable is glued to the chassis, use a heated iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive first. You can then slide an opening pick underneath the cable to loosen it. Never pull directly on the delicate connectors.
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Slide an opening pick underneath the foam cushion pieces to separate them from the display, and gently pull them off. You may need some double sided tape to re-attach them to the new display.
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With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
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Leftmost
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Top
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Upper right
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Lower right
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
25 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
21コメント
The thermal compound/paste that is used by Apple on the GPU and memory is less than stellar. I would highly recommend stressing the GPU Memory gap in this guide. As you can see in the images of the cooler, specifically the GPU side, apple uses a white paste compound for thermal transfer. The problem is that the cooler does not contact the memory for the GPU. Once you remove the cooler it breaks the compound in several spots, and it will never be as good as it was unless care is made, and you are aware of this prior to re-installation.
Furthermore, with the GTX775M and GTX780M equipped iMacs, the temperatures are already above normal without removing the cooler. If you try and push these chips with the added memory in the latest generation games you will get artifacts from overheating. Due to the gap between the memory and the cooler you are also unable to use Arctic Silver as a remedy, as the gap is too much, with the logic board being vertical. (Risking seepage down the board, which I have already seen when performing the proper fix on another iMac) The coverage and type of thermal compound Apple is using is not sufficient. In the factory state the thermal compound is centered on the memory, however only 40% of the actual module comes in contact of the memory and the cooler. What I have done on my iMac and a few others so far is use thermal tape.
YES, I F*&^* hate thermal tape when compared to quality compound. With this only exception, the tape is more effective than the stock compound, and it is quarantined to make 100% contact, while dissipating heat properly. I have seen a drop of 15% under heavy use on the GPU since using the tape. YOU do not want to use cheap thermal tape! Standard tape only has a 3-5 watt thermal conductivity, which is equal to or less than a standard compound. You can go through frozencpu.com and purchase Fujipoly Extreme Thermal Pads which have a rating of 11. For use on the 27" iMacs, I went with 100 x 15 x 1.5 and (2) are needed to do completely cover both sides of the memory banks on the logic board.
Please, if you remove the cooler to replace the CPU you have to be aware of the GPU and the gap involved on the memory chips, and the potential of further gaps upon re-installation.
Are you suggesting that you used this 11kw tape on both the GPU and the GPU Memory modules?
I brought that tape but 1.5mm is way too tall and chose not to use it after all on my 27' 2013 14,2 model. Instead used 11kw X1 Extreme Fusion paste from Master Cooler. Its non-conductive so don't have to worry about short circuits. Its also very thick so doesn't run. I used the "small pea" technique on the GPU and GPU memory dims. For the actual CPU which I upgraded from the base i5 to a i7 4771 I used the "Thin line" technique.
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