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はじめに

Follow this guide to replace the loudspeaker module for the Google Pixel XL.

The Pixel XL’s unreinforced display panel is fragile and is attached to the frame with strong adhesive, making repairs difficult. There is a considerable chance of breaking the display, especially if it already has micro-fractures. Be sure to apply plenty of heat and be extremely careful during the prying stage.

  1. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the display for two minutes. A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage. Take note of the following regions before you begin prying:
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the display for two minutes.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

    • Take note of the following regions before you begin prying:

    • Thin adhesive lined against the display panel

    • Thick adhesive

    • The OLED display panel, which is very prone to damage

    • The display cable, which can be damaged during prying

    From my experince, it’s better to use a heat gun (if iFixit sold a good heat gun in volume, they should spruik that). Also, heat ALL sides at the same time BUT concentrate on the top part of the phone where the foam adhesive tape is thickest, second on the bottom where the foam is almost as thick. It also helps to use the 2nd & 3rd images in the series to visualise where the adhesive is.

    Jon T. - 返信

  2. Once the edge is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup close to the edge. Lift on the suction cup, and insert an opening pick into the gap. Do not insert the pick more than 13 mm (0.5 inches), or you will damage the display assembly.
    • Once the edge is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup close to the edge.

    • Lift on the suction cup, and insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Do not insert the pick more than 13 mm (0.5 inches), or you will damage the display assembly.

    • If you have trouble creating a gap, reheat the edge and try again.

    • You can also try to use a playing card instead of an opening pick to help make the initial entry.

    From my experience, I had to use a thin blade (such as the ones included with the deluxe iFixit repair kit) to slide into the small gap, and cut away at the foam adhesive. Once enough of a gap is created, the picks can then be used to push the adhesive aside - but the adhesive is so thick, especially -as Brewmaster396 observed in the comments below - at the top right corner behind the screen, that the knife is required to cut it. I failed here - cracking the back layer of my screen - because I didn’t take time to cut all the adhesive away from that thick part, and kept trying to pull the screen off. It doesn’t take a lot of pressure to crack - so maybe it’s more a thing of cutting and floating the screen up, not pulling and prying.

    Jon T. - 返信

  3. Slide the opening clip across the top edge to slice through the adhesive. Be sure not to cut deeper than 13 mm (0.5 inches) or you will damage the display. Leave an opening pick in the edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
    • Slide the opening clip across the top edge to slice through the adhesive.

    • Be sure not to cut deeper than 13 mm (0.5 inches) or you will damage the display.

    • Leave an opening pick in the edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  4. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the phone for two minutes. Insert an opening pick near the top edge of the phone, where you have already sliced the adhesive. Slowly guide the pick around the right corner.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the phone for two minutes.

    • Insert an opening pick near the top edge of the phone, where you have already sliced the adhesive.

    • Slowly guide the pick around the right corner.

    • Carefully slide the pick down the right edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive.

    • Do not insert the pick more than 1 mm (1/32") along the edge, or you will damage the display assembly.

    • Repeat the step for the left edge of the phone.

  5. Heat the bottom edge with an iOpener for two minutes. Insert a pick near the right edge where you have already loosened the adhesive.
    • Heat the bottom edge with an iOpener for two minutes.

    • Insert a pick near the right edge where you have already loosened the adhesive.

    • Carefully guide the pick around the corner.

    • Slide the pick along the bottom edge to slice through the adhesive.

    • Do not slice deeper than 8.5 mm (1/3") or you will damage the display cable.

  6. Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the phone, carefully lift the display assembly up slightly by the right corners.
    • Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the phone, carefully lift the display assembly up slightly by the right corners.

    • Do not attempt to remove the display assembly. It is still attached by a flex cable.

    • Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive.

  7. Lift the display assembly from the top end and swing it around such that it rests upside down on the frame. Be careful not to strain the flex cable when you swing the assembly around. Be careful not to strain the flex cable when you swing the assembly around.
    • Lift the display assembly from the top end and swing it around such that it rests upside down on the frame.

    • Be careful not to strain the flex cable when you swing the assembly around.

  8. Remove the two 4 mm T5 screws securing the display cable bracket. Remove the display cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 4 mm T5 screws securing the display cable bracket.

    • Remove the display cable bracket.

  9. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable from its connector. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable from its connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

  10. Remove the display assembly. For comprehensive instructions on how to reinstall the Pixel XL display, follow this guide. If your replacement display did not come with a speaker grille, use tweezers to gently peel the adhesive grille from your old display, and transfer it to the replacement.
    • Remove the display assembly.

    • For comprehensive instructions on how to reinstall the Pixel XL display, follow this guide.

    • If your replacement display did not come with a speaker grille, use tweezers to gently peel the adhesive grille from your old display, and transfer it to the replacement.

    • Before installing a new display, be sure to remove all traces of adhesive from the frame. Use a spudger or an opening tool to scrape it off, and use high-concentration isopropyl alcohol to remove any residue.

    • If you are reinstalling the same display assembly, be sure to remove all adhesive residue from the panel and the frame before applying new adhesive.

    • Be sure to turn on your phone and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing the phone.

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  12. Remove the following screws that secure the midframe to the back:
    • Remove the following screws that secure the midframe to the back:

    • Seven black 4 mm T5 screws

    • Two silver 3 mm T5 screws

  13. The midframe is held tightly in place by plastic clips which push into the edge of the back case.
    • The midframe is held tightly in place by plastic clips which push into the edge of the back case.

  14. Find the small notch in the bottom left corner of the frame and insert an opening pick. Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the phone towards the bottom right corner and leave it there. Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the phone towards the bottom right corner and leave it there.
    • Find the small notch in the bottom left corner of the frame and insert an opening pick.

    • Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the phone towards the bottom right corner and leave it there.

  15. Insert a separate opening pick into the right edge of the phone, near the bottom. Slowly push the pick upwards along the seam until the first clip pops free. Due to the tight tolerances, this may be difficult, requiring a substantial amount of force. If you are having trouble, try inserting and sliding a playing card.
    • Insert a separate opening pick into the right edge of the phone, near the bottom.

    • Slowly push the pick upwards along the seam until the first clip pops free.

    • Due to the tight tolerances, this may be difficult, requiring a substantial amount of force. If you are having trouble, try inserting and sliding a playing card.

    • Once you've released the clip, leave the opening pick in place to prevent the midframe from resealing.

    I found that leaving the pick in the middle, and using it as a lever (think like bending a pipe over one’s knee and the pick in the middle is the knee) to “pop” the top edge up helped a lot more than trying to use more picks to pry this mid layer up…

    Jon T. - 返信

  16. Insert an opening pick into the right edge of the phone and slide it upwards towards the top right clip. You do not need to insert the pick more than 2 mm into the edge. If you insert the pick all the way in, you may risk damaging flex cables.
    • Insert an opening pick into the right edge of the phone and slide it upwards towards the top right clip.

    • You do not need to insert the pick more than 2 mm into the edge. If you insert the pick all the way in, you may risk damaging flex cables.

    • Slowly slide the pick past the clip to disengage it from the frame.

    • At this point, the right edge of the midframe should be free from the case. If it isn't, slide an opening clip up and down along the right edge.

  17. Grasp the right edge of the midframe by the corners and slowly hinge the edge up. When the left edge feels loose, stop hinging and lift the midframe upwards. Remove the midframe.
    • Grasp the right edge of the midframe by the corners and slowly hinge the edge up.

    • When the left edge feels loose, stop hinging and lift the midframe upwards.

    • Remove the midframe.

    • To reinstall the midframe, align it to the case, then squeeze around the perimeter until all the clips snap back into position. When properly done, the midframe should lie flat.

    The midframe is connected with a ribbon cable. I left it connected.

    Joey Howell - 返信

    Hey Joey,

    Where was the ribbon cable that is connected to the midframe? This would be an important bit of information that I would need to add into the guide if confirmed.

    Arthur Shi -

  18. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector. Bend the battery flex cable slightly so that it will not accidentally touch the motherboard. Bend the battery flex cable slightly so that it will not accidentally touch the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector.

    • Bend the battery flex cable slightly so that it will not accidentally touch the motherboard.

  19. Use tweezers to peel up the tape at the top of the interconnect cable. Use tweezers to peel up the tape at the top of the interconnect cable.
    • Use tweezers to peel up the tape at the top of the interconnect cable.

  20. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable from the motherboard. To reconnect during reinstallation, align the cable with the socket and use your finger to press down on one side, followed by the other. If done correctly, the cable should be firmly held in place by the socket.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable from the motherboard.

    • To reconnect during reinstallation, align the cable with the socket and use your finger to press down on one side, followed by the other. If done correctly, the cable should be firmly held in place by the socket.

  21. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable from the bottom daughterboard. Continue peeling the interconnect cable from the bottom daughterboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable from the bottom daughterboard.

    • Continue peeling the interconnect cable from the bottom daughterboard.

    • Remove the interconnect cable.

  22. Use the edge of an opening tool to carefully push the vibration motor connector out of its socket. Do not pull the connector by the wires. Doing so will most likely break the connector.
  23. Remove the two 3 mm T5 screws securing the daughterboard to the frame.
    • Remove the two 3 mm T5 screws securing the daughterboard to the frame.

  24. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and loosen the right edge of the daughterboard. Swing the daughterboard to the left to move it out of its recess. Do not attempt to remove the daughterboard. It is still attached to the frame.
  25. Slowly lift the left edge of the daughterboard up, pulling the antenna patch off of the loudspeaker. You can insert an opening pick under the antenna patch to help separate it from the loudspeaker. If the antenna patch begins to rip, stop pulling. Heat an iOpener, apply it to the corner for a minute, and use an opening pick to help remove it from the loudspeaker.
    • Slowly lift the left edge of the daughterboard up, pulling the antenna patch off of the loudspeaker.

    • You can insert an opening pick under the antenna patch to help separate it from the loudspeaker.

    • If the antenna patch begins to rip, stop pulling. Heat an iOpener, apply it to the corner for a minute, and use an opening pick to help remove it from the loudspeaker.

  26. Flip the daughterboard over onto the battery and secure it out of the way with some tape.
    • Flip the daughterboard over onto the battery and secure it out of the way with some tape.

  27. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and loosen the loudspeaker from its recess. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and loosen the loudspeaker from its recess.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and loosen the loudspeaker from its recess.

  28. Insert the point of a spudger under the loudspeaker flex cable and pry gently to loosen it from the frame. During reinstallation, make sure that the loudspeaker flex cable is properly seated using the alignment notches. If it is not properly aligned, the loudspeaker will not work.
    • Insert the point of a spudger under the loudspeaker flex cable and pry gently to loosen it from the frame.

    • During reinstallation, make sure that the loudspeaker flex cable is properly seated using the alignment notches. If it is not properly aligned, the loudspeaker will not work.

  29. Use the spudger to pry up the loudspeaker. Remove the loudspeaker. Remove the loudspeaker.
    • Use the spudger to pry up the loudspeaker.

    • Remove the loudspeaker.

まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Google Pixel XL Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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Arthur Shi

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This guide has been updated!

Arthur Shi - 返信

Great guide! Don’t be like me (on step 14) and sever your power and volume cable while sliding the pick up the right side of the mid-frame.

Colt Stewart - 返信

I’m sorry to hear that! I’ve updated the step to hopefully mitigate that potential damage.

Arthur Shi -

I installed a new battery and screen and now the loadspeaker does not work. I never removed the daughterboard so I'm not sure what I did to cause it not to work. Is there anything else to try before I take it back apart?

stacey davis - 返信

Hi Stacey,

Does the vibration motor still work? Does it charge properly? The first thing I would check is to re-seat both ends of the wide ribbon which connects the motherboard to the daughterboard. Make sure there are no particulates in the sockets.

You can test the phone without the midframe installed—the earpiece speaker just won’t work as it’s attached to the loudspeaker. If you do, be careful not to short anything!

Arthur Shi -

Add me to the list of people who cracked their screen trying to open up the device :-(

In other news: The antenna patch connecting the daughterboard to the replacement loudspeaker isn’t adhering properly. I tried taping it down with electrical tape but it won’t stick. What are my options here? Will superglue work? Does the midframe hold down the patch or is it fully dependent on the adhesive?

Thanks!

Zeev - 返信

Hi Zeev,

I’m sorry to hear about the cracked screen. It is definitely a difficult feat—we’re trying to work out an easier and more reliable method.

The midframe will definitely hold down the patch once it is in place. Make sure that the patch is not creased when you install the midframe. Double-sided scotch tape works well also.

Arthur Shi -

Hi Arthur,

Thanks for the prompt response, really appreciate it. I’ll get rid of the electrical tape on the loudspeaker patch and let the midframe do its thing.

Regarding the guide: I watched several Pixel XL disassembly videos on youtube, and believe that despite copious amounts of glue, the top and bottom should be propped up first, followed by a gentle prying of the sides. The initial entry on the side is what caused me to crack my screen. In any case thanks again for the guide, it was helpful nonetheless.

Zeev - 返信

Yes, that may be a safer option. I’ll look into updating the guide.

Arthur Shi -

I bended them out slightly but the issue still persists

Zeev - 返信

Hi Zeev,

I moved your question into the Answers forum, where it will have a higher chance of being answered. You can follow it here: Crackling noises after loudspeaker replacement.

Arthur Shi -

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