F35 error code appears during cycle
F35 error code - can't find this in my manual under troubleshooting
The F35 error code indicates an analog pressure sensor error. The analog pressure sensor is the component that detects water level in the washer tub. This error can usually be cleared but it will occur again if the main control board still detects a problem with the signal from the analog pressure sensor. This error code can be caused by a problem with the air pressure tube between the bottom of the washer tub and the analog pressure sensor. If you are able to unplug the washer and check this air pressure tube, you may be able to resolve this problem. The analog pressure sensor can be accessed by pulling off the top panel of your washer. Remove the screws at the very back of the top panel and then pull it back slightly and then up and off of the washer. The analog pressure sensor is Key 38 in the first image below. With the washer unplugged, check the connection of the air pressure tube to this component. Check the entire air tube down to its connection to the bottom of the washer tub. You will likely need to remove the back panel of the washer to check the entire air pressure tube. If you find a kink, tear, hose or loose connection in the air pressure tube, then this is the likely cause of your F35 error code. If the air pressure tube appears to be okay, then you will likely need to replace the analog pressure sensor. If the problem still exists after replacing this component, then the main electronic control board for the washer will need to be replaced. If you are not completely confident in your technical ability to safely access and check these components, I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair the washer.
I was able to repair my failing pressure sensor by spraying a couple of short/light bursts of CRC QD Contact Cleaner which I found at an auto parts store. Remove the pressure sensor as described in Lonnie Johnsons YouTube video. The black cover of the pressure sensor can by removed be carefully sliding the brown inner sensor housing outward just a little. You will notice two thin black tabs on either side of the outer housing. Gently push both tabs outward while sliding the brown inner housing out. The brown housing will slide very little before hitting another point on the same black tabs. Lift the two black outer tabs upward this time and the brown pressure sensors should slide out completely.
Now remove the short black rubber hose from the top of the pressure sensor chip. Hold the brown pressure housing upside down and spray a couple of light bursts of contact cleaner into the pressure sensor chip inlet tube. Use a thin red spray tube that fits into the spray can nozzle if you have one. The CRC QD contact cleaner will dry quickly. DO NOT SPRAY FULL PRESSURE BURSTS. Light low pressure bursts will clean it out and not damage it internally. Reconnect the rubber hose and check that both ends are fully seated. Reinstall the black outer cover and install the unit in your washer. Hope it works for you also!
SUD F35 Error
After reading numerous forums it appeared that there was no alternative but to replace the pressure switch. I did what one forum suggested to make sure the pressure hose was clear.
I tried to order a part through Amazon for $97.00 but the manufacturer would not allow sales into Canada. Great! All the part suppliers in Canada want $150.00 to $180.00 and there was a three week lead time. Great again, and the laundry is piling up.
How complicated can this pressure switch be? If excessive suds is causing the problem then it must be clogged or dirty.
Let try cleaning the thing. I had a can of electrical contact cleaner much like brake cleaner and gave the contacts a shot or two. Why not clean the switch mechanism...nothing to loose, right. I filled the switch cavity with the cleaner, gave it a good shake and the drained and allowed it to dry.
Bingo! We're on our sixth load and laundry pile is gone.
Hope this helps.
water level sensor switch W10415587 repair? The answer is YES it can be repaired. First off you must be comfortable working on your own machine and have a little experience when electronics.
The switch is located on the top right hand side under the top cover on a Maytag front loading model 5000 series. By removing three screws in the back (those are the first screws as you look over the top backside). you can spot the "Air" switch by looking for a small rubber tube running from the bottom side of the tub to it. you will see also see a little connector with four or five wirers. Remove the rubber tube and carefully remove the connector (note small locking tab must be depressed, don't break it) now to get the switch off of the sidewall give it a quarter turn twist, then it will pull out. the actual switch is under a plastic cover (mine was a black cover) now using a very small screw driver carefully pry two locking grooves on either of the cover. those pins release another plastic part that the circuit board is mounted on. Now you will see a small tube going to a IC chip with a diaphragm valve sitting on a IC chip. pull off the tiny rubber tube ( not the one on the IC pull off the other side). Now give it some suction, I just used my mouth and felt water come out. reassemble and you should be good to go. Water vapor from the tub makes its way through the rubber tube and collects on the sensor in the diaphragm causing the error code f-35 or suds (it thinks your tub is flooded). It work for me even though I already ordered the part , now I guess I have a spear part. Good luck!!
Bye the way if you need to remove the circuit board slide a small flat blade (like a feeler gauge) under the circuit board to release the locking mechanism. There aren't any traces on the bottom of the board to damage. have fun.......
I finally experienced the F35/SUD error on my Kenmore Elite HE3T steam washer and in my case it was the analog pressure sensor or APS. With the tub empty I was getting about 1.4VDC out when it should have been about .38VDC so the washer thought the water was not draining out so it will shutdown to prevent a water overfill condition. I ended up repairing the APS with a APS repair kit on the site mentioned below. All you need is a low power (25 watt or so) soldering iron.
Another common failure is that the CCU power supply can cause an issue with the APS so it reads incorrect. There is a repair kit for that issue, too.
The F35 and SUD error cause can be figured out and repaired in most cases. It more than likely will be the analog pressure sensor (APS) or the CCU power supply issue. There are repair kits available for both the APS and CCU to try once you figure out which one is the culprit using a low cost volt meter. Save yourself a very expensive service call and check out repairing your machine yourself.
You can take some readings with your volt meter on the CCU or even the APS and determine which one is causing the F35/SUD indication. See www.f35error.com for videos on how to determine if the APS or CCU is causing your error code.
I finally identified the root cause of my F35 SUDS error. I found by a hole in the black hose that attaches to the pressure sensor and runs down behind the tub. The tub rubbed a hole in the hose during the spin cycle. Inspect the vacuum hose first before replacing the sensor. Route your new hose against the back of the washer and secure it with tape or cable ties.....Randy
I have the F35. I opened the washer and got the IC/pressure sensing board. I read that the pressure transducer is supposed to read from 1 to 5V. The reading on this one was 1.21V. Using a hose I put pressure into the sensor by way of mouth to confirm that indeed the voltage out of the analoge pin 4 goes from 1.21 to 5.25Volts. As I did this, the machine responded by turning the pump on and off depending on how much pressure I put in. So I think that lowering the input voltage from 5.25 or so to the nominal 5V will fix it. this is because the analouge sensor will sense higher than 1 volt while the digital converter will always want 1 volt to mean 0pressure no matter what the voltage is. I think the voltage supply in the main board drifts up higher than 5 volts and thus ruins the signal from the analougue sensor by pushing it always higher than 1v. This means to the machine that the pump must keep running. It would then have a time out on the pump so as to not burn it and falsely detect "SUDS". At that point it would also through the F35 error. I will confirm this soon.
I’ve attempted to reply to your answer twice. Each time I hit the submit, my lengthy reply was lost. Anyway, it sounds like you’ve got the Kenmore washer from !&&*. The only advice I can recommend is to go back over the 3 main fixes and double check your work.
1) The pressure sensor hose - Check for leaks if you did not replace it with new. It is fairly cheap to replace.
2) The pressure sensor - I’d check the cable to it and the contacts. Sometime the cable is strained during removal and any one of the wires maybe not making contact. Clean the gold fingers on the pressure sensor board with alcohol so there is good contact between the board and the cable connector. If all that makes no difference, try swapping back the old pressure sensor with the new one.
3) The CCU board- Removing the CCU board with all the many cables was stressful. I was afraid of plugging the cabes incorrectly on reinstallation. Double check your connections. Ensure that all cables are plugged into the right connectors. Most were colorcoded. Look for any loose wires as some were difficult to unplug. If you have your old CCU, mail it to me return postage paid and I will change the caps for free.
You may have already replaced your washer with a new one. Sorry for the late reply.
I did that as well! However, eventually it kept giving me an error code every other wash. I purchased a new sensor on Amazon for $80 and it’s been working fine for three months now!
Replaced the pressure sensor and the main control board, inspected the pressure sensor hose. Still getting sud and f35 error. Any ideas what to try next?
When you mention that you replaced the main board are you referring to the CCU board? If so, was the board purchased new? I've got nothing else to recommend. My washer failed again about 1 year later after replacing the pressure hose. I replaced two bad caps on the CCU board and it's been running great since then.
Yes, unfortunately a new ccu board. Pretty frustrating.
itwAs the sensor. Replaced it and now it’s working fine!
I have one of these washers and i figured out what is the main culprit of the F35 code. The pressure sensor doesn't go bad like people say, what happens is their contacts inside the sensor between it and the board release. If you solder them it fixes the issue all together. When they first made these they were not really soldered but dry soldered which are weak. I pushed on my sensor after taking it apart and you can see where it released. I am surprised that the techs or the manufacture did not catch this. I guess the heat from the machine will heat this up and eventually crack the solder then the voltage runs out of range so the machine throws the code. If you have already fixed the main board capacitor issue, this is the fault after, it might even have something to do with them popping too. Hope this ends all the F35 codes out there.
Randy & Lonnie Johnstones u-tube video, saved me time, money and effort.
Lonnies video shows how to initiate the diagnostic self help program in the washing machine. This quickly ID'd the problem to my pressure sensor switch. I removed the PSS, (N.B. Lonnies 2nd video shows how to turn it 90 degrees to remove it, so you don't break the brittle plastic, which I did) remove the cover check the PSS pipe & clean the contacts with QC electronic contact cleaner. Reasemble & re-install the PSS and all is working perfectly 3 washes later. Great results at NO COST, other than $10 for the cleaner!
Randy & Lonnie you are wonderful!
My problem was the two 2200uF, 10V electrolytic filter caps were bulged on the main board. Typical symptom of overstressed capacitors due to high ripple current and insufficiently low ESR. (trying to skimp of parts) Tip off was 0.38V on the analog output of the pressure sensor when power was off, 1.1V+ when the power was turned on, without any water in the drum in both cases. I unfortunately wasted $$ on a new sensor which did nothing.
I desoldered the two caps and put in two 2200uF, 25V Nichicons I had lying around in my parts collection. All works perfectly now.
Take a picture of all the connectors before unplugging them all. It takes out the guess work when putting them back on.
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