はじめに

この手順を使って、ヘッドフォンジャックとマイクを含む機能しないLightningコネクターアセンブリを交換してください。

また、この手順を使って次のパーツを交換する際の参照にできます。

*ヘッドホンジャックの相互接続ケーブル

  • マイクガスケット

ビデオの概要

フロントガラスが割れてしまった場合、ガラスにテープを貼って、作業中ガラスが飛び散ったりして怪我をしないようご注意ください。 画面全体を透明テープで何重にもなるようしっかりと付着し固定します。 テープを表面に貼ると、ガラスの破片が飛び散らないよう固定でき、画面を持ち上げた際に画面構造を保ってくれます。
  • フロントガラスが割れてしまった場合、ガラスにテープを貼って、作業中ガラスが飛び散ったりして怪我をしないようご注意ください。

  • 画面全体を透明テープで何重にもなるようしっかりと付着し固定します。

    • テープを表面に貼ると、ガラスの破片が飛び散らないよう固定でき、画面を持ち上げた際に画面構造を保ってくれます。

  • 修理作業中はガラスの破片が飛び散り、目に入ることがないように保護メガネを装着してください。

This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

steven krieger - 返信

This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

TerryChang - 返信

An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

TerryChang -

I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

Daylen -

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

yaterbob - 返信

Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

mark40 - 返信

iPhoneの分解作業を始める前に、電源が切ってあるか必ず確認してください。
  • iPhoneの分解作業を始める前に、電源が切ってあるか必ず確認してください。

  • Lightning コネクターの両側にある3.9 mmのペンタローブネジを2本外します。

I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

Magnus Dalen - 返信

For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

Raymond Willems - 返信

Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

William Kolb - 返信

次の手順では、本体からディスプレイを引き上げます。ディスプレイはガラスのスクリーンとメタルクリップが付いたプラスチック製のベゼルからできています。 この作業でどんな工具を使っても、ディスプレイ全体を持ち上げてください。 ガラスがプラスチックから離れてきたら、第1番目の画像にあるように、プラスチック製の開口ツールをプラスチックのフレームとメタル製の本体の間に差し込み、ケースからメタルクリップを剥がします。
  • 次の手順では、本体からディスプレイを引き上げます。ディスプレイはガラスのスクリーンとメタルクリップが付いたプラスチック製のベゼルからできています。

  • この作業でどんな工具を使っても、ディスプレイ全体を持ち上げてください。

  • ガラスがプラスチックから離れてきたら、第1番目の画像にあるように、プラスチック製の開口ツールをプラスチックのフレームとメタル製の本体の間に差し込み、ケースからメタルクリップを剥がします。

  • ディスプレイベゼルが外れた本体を再組み立てする際は、デバイス本体を密封するためにプラスチックベゼルとガラスの間に薄い接着ストリップを留めることもできます。

can this separation makes the screen stop working

bassam_shallak92 - 返信

In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

Iver søbakk -

If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

Shara Nelson - 返信

次の2つの手順ではiPhone 5s本体を安全に開口する必須の工具であるiSclackの使い方を紹介します。1回以上の修理に終わらない方はぜひ入手してください。iSclackをご利用にならない場合は手順6まで進んでください。 iSclackのレバーを閉め吸盤カップを開きます。 吸盤カップの間にiPhoneを挟みプラスチックの溝に本体の下部を差し込みます。
  • 次の2つの手順ではiPhone 5s本体を安全に開口する必須の工具であるiSclackの使い方を紹介します。1回以上の修理に終わらない方はぜひ入手してください。iSclackをご利用にならない場合は手順6まで進んでください。

  • iSclackのレバーを閉め吸盤カップを開きます。

  • 吸盤カップの間にiPhoneを挟みプラスチックの溝に本体の下部を差し込みます。

    • 上部の吸盤カップはホームボタンより上に接着します。

  • iSclackのレバーを開いて吸盤を閉じます。iPhoneの両面、中心部に吸盤カップをしっかりと押し当てます。

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

Izaac Post - 返信

Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

Thomas Hallberg -

This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

Magnus Dalen - 返信

I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

Andrew - 返信

This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

ldavis - 返信

iPhoneを両手でしっかりと持ち、吸盤を引き離すようにiSclackの持ち手を閉めます。するとフロントパネルが背面ケースから持ちあがります。 iSclackは割れたiPhoneのフロントパネルが飛び散ることなく、安全に開封できるように設計されていますが、ホームボタンケーブルにダメージを与える場合があります。
  • iPhoneを両手でしっかりと持ち、吸盤を引き離すようにiSclackの持ち手を閉めます。するとフロントパネルが背面ケースから持ちあがります。

  • iSclackは割れたiPhoneのフロントパネルが飛び散ることなく、安全に開封できるように設計されていますが、ホームボタンケーブルにダメージを与える場合があります。

  • 二つの吸盤カップを iPhoneから取り外してください。

  • 次の3つの手順をとばして手順9まで進みましょう。

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - 返信

iSclackをご利用にならない場合は、フロントパネルを持ち上げるためにシングルタイプの吸盤カップを使います。
  • iSclackをご利用にならない場合は、フロントパネルを持ち上げるためにシングルタイプの吸盤カップを使います。

  • カップをしっかりとホームボタン上部のスクリーンにしっかりと密着させます。

  • カップの吸盤がスクリーンにしっかりと密着していることを確認してください。

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

cpwittenberg - 返信

Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

Craig Matthews -

I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

Caroline Russell -

Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

Malcolm - 返信

I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

paul -

This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

daveoline -

Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

Lukeapple1414 - 返信

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

iGuys -

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

Nathan - 返信

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

hari - 返信

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

Robert Colvin - 返信

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

johnsonjohnr - 返信

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

daveoline -

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

matttaylor - 返信

If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

Caroline Russell -

i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

sineglabs - 返信

1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

seijihuzz01 - 返信

We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

Chris Twomey - 返信

I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

Bill Pennock - 返信

Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

Bill Pennock - 返信

Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - 返信

フロントパネルはクリップが付けられており、電話本体の残りの部分と幾つかのリボンケーブルで繋がっています。ここでの作業の目的はクリップを外し、ケーブルの接続を外せる程度まで本体を開口することです。破損を防ぐために、ゆっくりと丁寧に作業を進めてください。
  • フロントパネルはクリップが付けられており、電話本体の残りの部分と幾つかのリボンケーブルで繋がっています。ここでの作業の目的はクリップを外し、ケーブルの接続を外せる程度まで本体を開口することです。破損を防ぐために、ゆっくりと丁寧に作業を進めてください。

  • 吸盤カップが隙間なくホームボタン付近のフロントパネルアセンブリと密着していることを確認してください。

  • iPhone を片手でしっかりと抑えながら、吸盤カップを少しずつ引き上げて、本体背面ケースからフロントパネルのホームボタン端を引き離します。

  • 吸盤カップを上に引き上げながら、プラスチック製の開口ツールで、ゆっくりと背面ケースの端からフロントパネルアセンブリをこじ開けて離していきます。

  • 時間をかけてゆっくりと同じ力加減で作業します。5sのフロントパネルアセンブリは数あるデバイスの中でも特に頑丈に装着されています。

Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

llcoreyll - 返信

Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

idmadj -

It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

Rosemary McNaughton - 返信

Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

Brian Riess -

Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

Konrad Tlatlik - 返信

Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

Chal Miller -

Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

Thor Lancaster - 返信

Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

W Fleming -

Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

bartonh - 返信

Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

Kyle Rogers - 返信

I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

adrt - 返信

We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

Chris Twomey - 返信

The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

leeprobert - 返信

ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

Scott Watson - 返信

ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

Erik Osborn - 返信

during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

Valerie Egan - 返信

Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

Christopher Flynn -

I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

stopsurfing - 返信

This is a great idea! Works for me too!

JC Alice -

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - 返信

Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

Michal Pawlowski - 返信

背面ケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを完全に外さないでください。幾つかのリボンケーブルが本体上部と繋がった状態にします。 吸盤カップの取っ手を引っ張り、吸盤カップの吸引シールを外します。
  • 背面ケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを完全に外さないでください。幾つかのリボンケーブルが本体上部と繋がった状態にします。

  • 吸盤カップの取っ手を引っ張り、吸盤カップの吸引シールを外します。

  • ディスプレイアセンブリから吸盤カップを取り外します。

Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

Scott Stathis - 返信

ホームボタンケーブルを覆っているメタル製ブラケットが取り出せる程度まで本体を開口します。 本体を大きく開かないでください。ホームボタンケーブルやホームボタンケーブルが差し込まれたソケットにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。ケーブルを緩めたままの状態にしますーケーブルが伸びきっていたら、開きすぎです。 新規購入時のオリジナルのホームボタンアセンブリにはTouch ID機能が装備されています。ケーブルの破損後、新しいホームボタンを取り付けた場合、ホームボタン機能は回復できますが、Touch ID機能は回復できません。
  • ホームボタンケーブルを覆っているメタル製ブラケットが取り出せる程度まで本体を開口します。

  • 本体を大きく開かないでください。ホームボタンケーブルやホームボタンケーブルが差し込まれたソケットにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。ケーブルを緩めたままの状態にしますーケーブルが伸びきっていたら、開きすぎです。

    • 新規購入時のオリジナルのホームボタンアセンブリにはTouch ID機能が装備されています。ケーブルの破損後、新しいホームボタンを取り付けた場合、ホームボタン機能は回復できますが、Touch ID機能は回復できません。

  • スパッジャーの先端を使ってブラケットを外し、ピンセットで取り出します。

  • 次の2つの手順は再組み立てに関連しています。再組み立てを始めるまではこの2つをとばして手順12から作業を続けます。

I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

Nikunj - 返信

Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

John Doe - 返信

mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

Donna Godfrey -

It's there to keep it firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Gabe - 返信

I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

Harry

Harry Jones - 返信

I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

andy - 返信

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - 返信

You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

Iver søbakk - 返信

When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

Zac Imboden - 返信

I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

Kris704 - 返信

I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

Completely bummed at this point….

Alun Williams - 返信

再組み立ての際は、Touch IDケーブルのブラケットを再装着する必要があります。ブラケットの先端をバッテリーとTouch IDケーブルコネクターの間でスライドします。正面はコネクター上に装着されます。 ブラケットの上部をTouch IDケーブルコネクター上で左側から右側にスライドします。
  • 再組み立ての際は、Touch IDケーブルのブラケットを再装着する必要があります。ブラケットの先端をバッテリーとTouch IDケーブルコネクターの間でスライドします。正面はコネクター上に装着されます。

  • ブラケットの上部をTouch IDケーブルコネクター上で左側から右側にスライドします。

This is the hardest part lol

Bob smith - 返信

I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

FierDancr -

1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

seijihuzz01 - 返信

Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

seijihuzz01 - 返信

That was fun without tweezers :)

Oscar - 返信

Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

natzulf -

It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

copeconsultancy - 返信

I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

Brent Hillyer - 返信

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - 返信

Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

Bill Pennock -

On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

Jeff Clayton - 返信

All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

Kim Mace - 返信

I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

Cory Powell - 返信

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、Touch IDケーブルブラケットの正面側をケーブルコネクター上に重なるように折りたたみます。 ブラケットが折りたためない場合は。ブラケットを取り出してケーブルコネクター上にきちんと装着するように再度スライドしてください。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、Touch IDケーブルブラケットの正面側をケーブルコネクター上に重なるように折りたたみます。

  • ブラケットが折りたためない場合は。ブラケットを取り出してケーブルコネクター上にきちんと装着するように再度スライドしてください。

It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

Sheldon Carpenter - 返信

See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

Elliot Fleming - 返信

スパッジャーの先端を使って、ホームボタンケーブルコネクターをソケットから持ち上げて外します。 ソケットからケーブルコネクターのみ外してください。ソケット全体に接触しないでください。ソケットは接着剤でケーブル上に装着されています。接触すると取れてしまうことがあります。
  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ホームボタンケーブルコネクターをソケットから持ち上げて外します。

  • ソケットからケーブルコネクターのみ外してください。ソケット全体に接触しないでください。ソケットは接着剤でケーブル上に装着されています。接触すると取れてしまうことがあります。

Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

Keystone - 返信

Reassembly:

The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

seijihuzz01 - 返信

Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

Brian Riess - 返信

コネクターが外れたら、本体上部を蝶番のようにして、アセンブリのホームボタンの端を背面ケースから引き上げて外します。 ディスプレイを約90度の角度で開き、作業中邪魔にならないように、ディスプレイの後ろに衝立を用意して固定します。 作業中、輪ゴムでディスプレイを固定してください。これはディスプレイケーブルに過度な圧力が加わらないようにするためです。
  • コネクターが外れたら、本体上部を蝶番のようにして、アセンブリのホームボタンの端を背面ケースから引き上げて外します。

  • ディスプレイを約90度の角度で開き、作業中邪魔にならないように、ディスプレイの後ろに衝立を用意して固定します。

    • 作業中、輪ゴムでディスプレイを固定してください。これはディスプレイケーブルに過度な圧力が加わらないようにするためです。

  • 急な場合は、未開封の飲用水缶を使ってディスプレイを支えてください。

maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

Joop Roos - 返信

Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

Kelly Ann - 返信

ロジックボードに留められた、メタル製バッテリーコネクターのブラケットから1.6 mm #000プラスネジを2本外します。
  • ロジックボードに留められた、メタル製バッテリーコネクターのブラケットから1.6 mm #000プラスネジを2本外します。

I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

Luke Lin - 返信

See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

Didier Daniel -

Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

Peter Pan - 返信

Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

Jonathan Goldsmith - 返信

Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

Jonathan Goldsmith - 返信

Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

Jonathan Goldsmith - 返信

Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

Vitaly Kirichenko - 返信

I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

Bruce Peffley -

The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

Tom Gleason - 返信

The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

Chris Wiley - 返信

Deck the Halls
ツールとFixキット
iPhoneからメタル製バッテリーコネクターのブラケットを外します。
  • iPhoneからメタル製バッテリーコネクターのブラケットを外します。

Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

Daniel Goldschmidt - 返信

Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

Bryan Remely - 返信

Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

Someone Somewhere - 返信

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを丁寧に持ち上げて外します。 バッテリーコネクターのみ持ち上げてください。ロジックボード上のソケットには接触しないでください。コネクター全体にダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを丁寧に持ち上げて外します。

  • バッテリーコネクターのみ持ち上げてください。ロジックボード上のソケットには接触しないでください。コネクター全体にダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

William Stein - 返信

Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

William Stein - 返信

A way to skip step 17-22

I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

Rolf Enderes - 返信

ロジックボードに留められたフロントパネルアセンブリケーブルブラケットから次のネジを取り外します。
  • ロジックボードに留められたフロントパネルアセンブリケーブルブラケットから次のネジを取り外します。

    • 1.7 mm #000プラスネジー1本

    • 1.2 mm #000プラスネジー1本

    • 1.3 mm #000プラスネジー1本

    • 1.7 mm #000プラスネジー1本

      • この1.7 mmネジは磁化スクリュードライバーに対応していません。取り外しの際は紛失に十分ご注意ください。

    • 再組み立ての際には上記手順にあるネジの位置を十分に確認してください。謝って右側下のネジ穴に1.3 mmのネジや1.7 mm ネジのどちらかを装着してしまうと、電話が正しく機能せず、ロジックボードに致命的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    • ネジを固く締めすぎないようにご注意ください。簡単にネジが留まらない場合は、誤ったサイズのネジを装着している可能性があります。無理に留めないでください。

Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

CLAUDE - 返信

Hi Claude,

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat -

so these are wrong?:

http://www.iphonebits.co.uk/wp-content/u...

https://blogetechparts.files.wordpress.c...

As they suggest the long screws go on the left...

holvoetsteve -

Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

Ariel Drotter -

Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

Ariel Drotter -

@Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

iGuys -

Hi Everyone,

Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat - 返信

The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

RayBob - 返信

Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

W Fleming -

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

William Boggs - 返信

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

Louis Torres - 返信

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

lambdahindiii - 返信

I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

wmlee1 -

I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

Some things to look out for:

- Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

- The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

- To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

Take your time and good luck all

wilten -

I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

Matt Reier -

On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

woods81 - 返信

You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

BJS -

You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

Drtofu -

Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

Jack -

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

what is the correct way?

alexaamo91 - 返信

i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

fredhdx - 返信

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

mnoivad - 返信

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

Pete H - 返信

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

Daylen - 返信

Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

bartonh - 返信

So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

larserikkolden - 返信

If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

Mehmet Hakan - 返信

I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

Any suggestion?

denis.g.94 - 返信

Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

James Lee - 返信

If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

Colm Noone - 返信

Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

Sandy Trevor - 返信

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

yaterbob - 返信

The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

Richard - 返信

ロジックボードからフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り外します。
  • ロジックボードからフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルブラケットを取り外します。

At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

Michael Schöttner - 返信

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルの接続を外します。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、正面カメラとセンサーケーブルの接続を外します。

The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - 返信

フロントパネルを支えて持ちながら、LCDケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。 デバイスを再組み立てする際にLCDケーブルがコネクターから外れてしまうことがあります。これは電源を入れた時、黒い画面に白い線が入る状態の原因となります。この症状がでたら、単純にケーブルをコネクターに再接続をして再起動してください。再起動方法はバッテリーを一度外して、再度取り付けます。
  • フロントパネルを支えて持ちながら、LCDケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

  • デバイスを再組み立てする際にLCDケーブルがコネクターから外れてしまうことがあります。これは電源を入れた時、黒い画面に白い線が入る状態の原因となります。この症状がでたら、単純にケーブルをコネクターに再接続をして再起動してください。再起動方法はバッテリーを一度外して、再度取り付けます。

When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

Sheldon Carpenter - 返信

After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

Jules JUSTE - 返信

And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

Jules JUSTE - 返信

Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

Bryan Remely -

最後に、デジタライザーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。 最後に、デジタライザーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。
  • 最後に、デジタライザーケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

Pete H - 返信

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

ilsedorec - 返信

Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

hermosillaignacio - 返信

It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

Mikereilly2009 - 返信

背面ケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを取り出します。
  • 背面ケースからフロントパネルアセンブリを取り出します。

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

IMG LINK:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

Oscar Vera - 返信

Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

Bob smith -

Dear Oscar,

I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

Thank you very much,

Alex

Alex -

The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

Toby Parnell -

To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

Bryan Remely -

Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

WILL D -

why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

Cameron Shelley - 返信

When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

Sheldon Carpenter - 返信

thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

Brian Hayes -

I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

Lance - 返信

SIMカード取出しツールか紙クリップ先端を、SIMカードトレイの小さな穴に差し込みます。 押し続けて、トレイを取り出します。力を入れて押してください。
  • SIMカード取出しツールか紙クリップ先端を、SIMカードトレイの小さな穴に差し込みます。

  • 押し続けて、トレイを取り出します。力を入れて押してください。

コメントを追加する

iPhoneからSIMカードトレイアセンブリを取り出します。
  • iPhoneからSIMカードトレイアセンブリを取り出します。

  • SIMカードを再挿入する際は、トレイに対して正しい方向に入っているか確認してください。

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーを使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからボタンアセンブリを持ち上げて外します。 コネクターのみこじ開けるようご注意ください。ロジックボード上のソケットに接触してしまうと、コネクター全体に損傷を与えてしまうことがあります。
  • スパッジャーを使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからボタンアセンブリを持ち上げて外します。

  • コネクターのみこじ開けるようご注意ください。ロジックボード上のソケットに接触してしまうと、コネクター全体に損傷を与えてしまうことがあります。

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーを使って Lightning コネクターケーブルをロジックボード上のソケットから持ち上げます。 ロジックボードの邪魔にならない位置に Lightning コネクターケーブルを折り曲げます。 ロジックボードの邪魔にならない位置に Lightning コネクターケーブルを折り曲げます。
  • スパッジャーを使って Lightning コネクターケーブルをロジックボード上のソケットから持ち上げます。

  • ロジックボードの邪魔にならない位置に Lightning コネクターケーブルを折り曲げます。

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーの先端を使ってロジックボード上のソケットからアンテナケーブルを持ち上げて外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使ってロジックボード上のソケットからアンテナケーブルを持ち上げて外します。
  • スパッジャーの先端を使ってロジックボード上のソケットからアンテナケーブルを持ち上げて外します。

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから正面カメラケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから正面カメラケーブルの接続を外します。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから正面カメラケーブルの接続を外します。

コメントを追加する

カメラのフラッシュブラケットを覆っているテープを取り外します。
  • カメラのフラッシュブラケットを覆っているテープを取り外します。

コメントを追加する

ロジックボードから次のネジを外します。
  • ロジックボードから次のネジを外します。

    • 2.4 mm #000プラスネジー1本

      • このネジはロジックボード底のメタル接合部分も同時に留めています。プラスブラケットの下に収まっていますが、これが外れている場合は、この手順を参照して取り外してください。

    • 2.3 mm #000プラスネジー2本

    • 2.8 mmスタンドオフネジー4本

      • 小サイズのマイナスドライバーを使ってスタンドオフネジを取り外してください。

      • 再組み立ての際は、スパッジャーの先端を使ってスタンドオフネジを取り付けることができます。

コメントを追加する

プラスチック開口ツールを使って、指で掴めるまでロジックボードを落ち上げます。 プラスチック開口ツールを使って、指で掴めるまでロジックボードを落ち上げます。
  • プラスチック開口ツールを使って、指で掴めるまでロジックボードを落ち上げます。

コメントを追加する

背面カメラからロジックボードをゆっくりと引き離していきます。 アンテナケーブルがまだ繋がっているため、ロジックボードを完全に取り外さないでください。 本のページをめくるように、ロジックボードをバッテリー側に返します。
  • 背面カメラからロジックボードをゆっくりと引き離していきます。

  • アンテナケーブルがまだ繋がっているため、ロジックボードを完全に取り外さないでください。

  • 本のページをめくるように、ロジックボードをバッテリー側に返します。

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード裏側のアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。 iPhoneからロジックボードを取り出します。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード裏側のアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。

  • iPhoneからロジックボードを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

この時、背面カメラ付近に取り付けられた小さなメタル製のプレートが取れてしまうことがあります。 このプレートはとても小さくて紛失しやすいため、作業中は取り出して、無くさないように保管しておくことをお勧めします。 ピンセットを使ってブラケットの下からプレートを掴み、背面カメラの左側へ動かし取り出します。
  • この時、背面カメラ付近に取り付けられた小さなメタル製のプレートが取れてしまうことがあります。

  • このプレートはとても小さくて紛失しやすいため、作業中は取り出して、無くさないように保管しておくことをお勧めします。

  • ピンセットを使ってブラケットの下からプレートを掴み、背面カメラの左側へ動かし取り出します。

  • 再組み立ての際は、小さなタブのついたプレートを右側へ、長い平らなプレートの端を本体上部に向けて配置します。

コメントを追加する

次のネジを取り外します。
  • 次のネジを取り外します。

    • 2.9 mm フィリップス #000ネジー1本

    • 1.5 mm フィリップス #000ネジー1本

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、背面ケースからスピーカーを丁寧に引き上げます。 ケースから取り出す際、スピーカー全体に接触しないようにしてください。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、背面ケースからスピーカーを丁寧に引き上げます。

  • ケースから取り出す際、スピーカー全体に接触しないようにしてください。

コメントを追加する

スピーカーにはホームボタンケーブルのソケット下の溝に入る留めくぎが付いています。 スピーカーを持ち上げ、ライトニングコネクターアセンブリからこの留めくぎを外すために、電話サイドに向けて引っ張ります。 スピーカーを取り出します。
  • スピーカーにはホームボタンケーブルのソケット下の溝に入る留めくぎが付いています。

  • スピーカーを持ち上げ、ライトニングコネクターアセンブリからこの留めくぎを外すために、電話サイドに向けて引っ張ります。

  • スピーカーを取り出します。

コメントを追加する

次の #000プラスネジを5本外します。
  • 次の #000プラスネジを5本外します。

    • 3.1 mm

    • 2.9 mm

    • 1.5 mm

    • 3.6 mm

    • 3.4 mm

コメントを追加する

Lightning コネクターのデーターケーブルは背面ケースに軽く接着剤を付けて留められています。 スパッジャー平面側先端を使って、背面ケースからケーブルを丁寧に剥がします。 スパッジャー平面側先端を使って、背面ケースからケーブルを丁寧に剥がします。
  • Lightning コネクターのデーターケーブルは背面ケースに軽く接着剤を付けて留められています。

  • スパッジャー平面側先端を使って、背面ケースからケーブルを丁寧に剥がします。

コメントを追加する

続けて、スパッジャーで背面ケースからLightningコネクターアセンブリを外します。 Lightningコネクター、ヘッドフォンジャックとホームボタンケーブルソケットを含む全てのアセンブリのネジ部分が緩んだ状態であるか確認してください。
  • 続けて、スパッジャーで背面ケースからLightningコネクターアセンブリを外します。

  • Lightningコネクター、ヘッドフォンジャックとホームボタンケーブルソケットを含む全てのアセンブリのネジ部分が緩んだ状態であるか確認してください。

コメントを追加する

Lightning コネクターアセンブリを取り出します。
  • Lightning コネクターアセンブリを取り出します。

What ever you do don't repeat my mistake!

The current microphone rubber cover needs to be removed and installed on the new microphone before installation into the phone.

The new microphone comes with adhesive with a plastic pell off covering that must be removed before installing the rubber cover. This step is missing from the ifixit.com instructions!

I reinstalled it without removing the plastic covering and my wife's microphone was totally worthless. Once removed and rubber cover reinstalled the phone works perfectly!

Really appreciate ifixit, has saved me and my family thousands of dollars over the years.

bretteasley - 返信

thanks so much i totally would've missed it

pawansidhu77 -

Thanks foro this post. I would have missed it!

erictirado1 - 返信

The *used (but verified)* lightening connector I ordered from iFixit was missing three things:

- Adhesive on the back of the screen connector

- Tiny foam square on the back of the antenna connector

- Rubber mic-cover

The first two can be carefully cannibalized from the broken one, and the third must be carefully removed from the broken one and refitted onto the new one. Take great care in doing this! It's a bummer iFixit doesn't provide any instructions for these steps!

Ryan McLeod - 返信

When I did this just last night, I compared the bad lightning connector setup with the new one from iFixit, and noticed that the new one doesn't have the small metal bracket that holds the connector for the home button/fingerprint scanner in place. This bracket is right under that connector and is what the metal cover in step 8 connects to. These instructions are so detailed everywhere else, that I was surprised that this wasn't mentioned. So be careful to remove the bracket from the old connector, and put it back in the phone during reassembly. I did not need the adhesive to hold the wires, because the little cover you remove in step 8 will hold things in place.

I also noticed the missing tape on the antenna wire, and the missing mic cover, and transferred them to the new connector as well.

lee - 返信

Can you send me your directions?

aturnaround -

The guide is absolutely perfect right up to this point. But, when it comes time to put the new part in, it completely falls apart. There are 3 components that must be switched over from your existing Lightning Connector assembly. THERE IS NO MENTION WHATSOEVER of this at all. Worse yet, I tried to submit an additional step detailing exactly what you need to swap over and where the component go, compete with closeup photos, but it was denied without explanation. I really think iFixit dropped the ball big time on this one. I'm an auto technician by trade so this setback was not an issue for me, but I have a feeling many customers will be completely confused when they reach the end of this guide as it's written.

In any case, the 3 components you need to swap over are:

- A thin stip that goes along the left and top edges of the headphone jack.

- The bracket that holds the connector into which the Touch ID cable plugs.

- The rubber microphone cover.

shaneeudy - 返信

Notes on the 3 parts from the original you need to remove and reuse for the replacement:

1) The rubber mic cover pulls off easily. Expose the adhesive on the bottom of the new mic, and slide it into the slit in the rubber cover. To reassemble, this bends 90-deg to align the holes in the rubber cover w/the small pegs on the body of the phone.

2) The "home button bracket" : remove it & pay attention to orientation & how the home button connector bends back on itself. The original bracket has some adhesive/foam to keep the connector in place. The replacement does not have this, so there's no easy way to set the button connector for reassembly - it kind of flails around.

3) I missed the comments about the headphone jack metal grounding strip until after I'd already closed up my phone. My standard iPhone headphones still work fine w/o it, but if you leave it out you could presumably wind up w/buzzing or static.

seijihuzz01 - 返信

2つの小さなメタル製パーツ(ブラケットと座金)があります。これらは取り出したLightningコネクターアセンブリと一緒に本体から取れてしまうか、緩くなってしまうことがあります。 さらに他のコンポーネントを取り外す場合は、これらの2つのパーツを取り出して、紛失しないように保管ください。
  • 2つの小さなメタル製パーツ(ブラケットと座金)があります。これらは取り出したLightningコネクターアセンブリと一緒に本体から取れてしまうか、緩くなってしまうことがあります。

  • さらに他のコンポーネントを取り外す場合は、これらの2つのパーツを取り出して、紛失しないように保管ください。

While the washer looked exactly as pictured here, my iPhone 5s had an entirely different type of bracket which encased the whole headphone jack. Also missing from this guide is the fact that you have to reuse the bracket where the home button connector is glued to, at least my replacement connector platine didn't come with one. So there's a few things to canibalize from the broken part:

The Bracket, the Washer, the home button bracket, and very important: the rubber casing of the microphone (left of the lightning connector)!

Florian Freundt - 返信

Indeed. Thank you for your precise advice.

opilarium -

if that bracket is not put back in will the phone still work??

jai - 返信

What is the function of the bracket?

Jan - 返信

This guide left a lot of stuff out. If I had not studied the part I was replacing, I would have never known to pull some of the part off the old part and replace on the new.

gocaps25 - 返信

Works well all they way until the end. The instructions for installing the replacement lightning assembly are worthless, because the new assembly looks different and requires at least one, but probably really two, additional parts (luckily I had already ordered these in anticipation). You need to order for sure order the iPhone 5s Headphone Jack Interconnect cable (item 124027-1) and very likely the iPhone 5s Microphone Gasket (item 124047-1), because the new 5s Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack / New / Black (item 124010-1) doesnt' have the interconnect cable (and the old assembly had this molded in, so it is not removable) and the microphone has glue on the back of the flex cable, so it is likely not easily removable from the old microphone gasket (I didn't even try) and it is better to insert it in a new one. Also, as mentioned by others, several other parts (tape and a metal clip assembly) have to be recovered from the old assembly and reused.

Pieter Kerstens - 返信

Non of this is mentioned (or photographed) in any of the instructions and it takes some review of the old assembly on how to make the new one to look the same. Just a note, the assembly of the Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack / New / Black assembly with the Headphone Jack Interconnect Cable, will look different from the original assembly, but is functionally the same (and you can tell). This was very frustrating, but the other parts of the instructions are very very good!

Pieter Kerstens - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、この手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

290 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

33%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Sam Lionheart

メンバー登録日: 2012年10月18日

286,834 ポイント

1,333のガイドは作成済み

チーム

iFixit iFixit人のメンバー

Community

125 メンバー

4,424のガイドは作成済み

Can't you replace just the lightning port itself by soldering on a new one?

Josh Bacon - 返信

It's not even worth soldering another one on when it's pretty cheap to buy another charging port flex assembly.

Ben -

I got through this successfully and it solved my problem (phone wouldn't charge/iTunes wouldn't recognize it when plugged in). With the new part it works perfectly.

Two cautions: I bought a new lightning connector assembly and I had to transfer two items from the old assembly that were not mentioned in the steps.

(1) There is a small black rubber "boot" which you can see in the step 38 photo. (on the very bottom between the lightning port and the headphone jack) Pull this off and put it in the same place on your new lightning connector assembly. It attaches to a fitting on the bottom wall of the aluminum case.

(2) There is a bracket that holds the home button connector socket in place. This is the socket that is exposed when you disconnect the home button cable in step 9. When you remove the old lightning connector assembly, this bracket needs to be transferred to the new assembly. It's attached by a small piece of double sided tape that you can salvage/reuse if you're careful!

Mike Ware - 返信

Right well that wasn't too much fun. In my case the adhesive connecting the lcd/digitiser and the lcd shield/bracket had gone making opening the device quite difficult. The screen and digitizer were coming up with the suction cup but the lcd shield and the metal bracket with all the clips stayed firmly secured to the main case. My solution was to drive a flat metal prying tool on the battery side between the metal bracket and the inside wall of the main casing. Not for the faint of heart but I got there in the end.

No complaints with the rest of the repair and the iFixit replacement lightning assembly works flawlessly (my lighting port and headphone jack had become loose fitting causing headphones to easily pop out and making charging very difficult).

When all is re-assembled remember to do a hard reset to get touch ID working again as only the home button function works immediately after reassembly (security feature?). Thanks a million iFixit, this brick will live to see another year hopefully :)

Barry O'Neill - 返信

Hi Barry,

Can you clarify what type of reset you had to do to get your TouchID working again as like you, only my home button is working after reassembly.

Thanks

Sean Gardner -

I've carried out the repair and everything went fine, however I can't get the screen on the phone anymore. There seems to be something stoping it closing around where the port actually is, any ideas what this is

liamrneal - 返信

After finishing my phone: shows charging but doesn't actually charge. What's wrong?

mikehamner - 返信

I have this same issue, I've retraced my steps but can't see what I could've done wrong.

I also had an issue with the loudspeaker prior to realising that it wasn't charging, but that is less fatal...

Simon McCormick -

Where you able to find a solution? I have the same problem too :(

Gabriel Heiler -

Just finished this project and it took me about 1.5 to 2 hours from start to finish. Here are a few things to lookout for.

1. the antenna connecting node on your new lighting blot assembly is pretty low quality as mine popped off at some point and was gone forever. I now only have half the phones antenna in use... this makes me sad.

2. You will need to use the old, original rubber housing for your microphone as the new new lighting blot assembly does not came with it.

3. You will need to use the original "home button to lighting blot assembly" housing as the new new lighting blot assembly does not came with it.

That being said, this was the absolutely first time I have ever opened any electronic device ever and I still have a somewhat working iphone aside form the antenna issue. If I can do this, anyone who knows how to take their time and read can do this no problem.

andybarbo - 返信

great write up. was able to follow through to the end. phone still works, and i can finally charge it. don't rush and you'll be fine.

williamsmr84 - 返信

I would not call this a "moderate" fix on the difficulty scale. Three hours of frustration and a minor meltdown, though I was successful in the end. I need a drink.

vebeard - 返信

After 6 hours of futzing around, it is done. And I can charge my phone again... But I just want to point out that an operation that literally takes out almost every component in the phone, then puts it all back in again is more than "moderate difficulty". It's difficult. There doesn't seem to be much more out there that's worse than this procedure, as far as invasiveness is concerned.

Got caught up with things not fitting properly while putting back together. Just remember: don't force anything. Just keep looking to see what's caught or if you've got it slightly improperly positioned.

Tay - 返信

Thank you to iFixit for the guide and the replacement part! Despite a few little missing details (now specified in the Step comments), the guide was very useful, took me like 2 hours.

To explain the situation a bit, my iPhone 5S got suddenly in Searching mode. I only realized it the morning after when I got to work. I didn't drop my phone overnight or anything. Only thing in mind, I plugged it on my charger... The day after, WiFi and everything else was working fine. When I took the SIM card out... The phone stayed in Searching mode.

Like any other phone, it got drop a few times and had a few bruises. Although, that sudden malfunction was surprising and frustrating.

I looked online and found a few sites mentioning that for an antenna issue, change the lightning port or DFU the phone (which had a risk of bricking the phone if the software wasn't the issue...)

Changed the connector, reinstalled everything and I am happy to say that IT WORKS!!

No more searching, no issue charging or listening to music!!! Thanks

John Lego - 返信

need help please! i have replaced my lightning connector and i have two problems, one is that my earpods doesn´t work fine, just the right one does, and seems to be a problem with the lightning, shows charging but does not charge at all, and it seems to be a problem with the antenna too, please help... would it be nice if u modify the guide... the logic board is not necesary to remove...

Mati Faraci - 返信

Where you able to solve it? I have the same problem!

Gabriel Heiler -

Es ist nicht notwendig dass Logic Board zu entfernen. Es geht auch ohne. Mich hat das entfernen des Boards zusätzlich 100€ gekostet da beim Ausbau und Einbau der Laderegler auf den Board kaputt ging und einige Filter und Kondensatoren abrissen.

Friemer - 返信

Hello Guys, I'm from Brazil andIi follow the instructions and changed my Lightning Connector, I took 1:20 min to finish it. Now my phone can charge again. :)

Mario - 返信

Schritt 14 bis 16 und 23 bis 25 sind gleich/doppelt. Man kann also 3 Schritte abziehen

Peter Dietrich - 返信

Da der Lautsprecher nicht mehr funktionierte musste ich die" Lightning Connector Einheit" eines iPhone 5s austauschen dazu habe ich das Ersatzteil von iFixit bestellt da es neue "Original" Apple Teile ja nur zusammen mit einer Reparatur gibt. Der austausch hat problemlos funktioniert aber nun habe ich im Haus (der Empfang ist leider bei allen 3 Deutschen Anbietern recht schlecht) gar keinen Empfang mehr (getestet mit O2, Telekom und Vodafone), davor konnte man nach etwas "Netz-suche" wenigstens in einigen Räumen Telefonieren. Gibt es bestimmte Kabelverbindungen die ich noch überprüfen kann oder ist die Qualität des Ersatzteils was die Empfangsqualität angeht leider so schlecht?

Georg Sauer - 返信

I was able to follow the video and lay out my parts in a magnetic parts tray and a grid I created for each step. I noted on the paper exactly how many screws/parts were used in that step. Once I dropped the screw on the grid in the parts tray, they stayed there until reassembly. It helped me out huge!

One issue I have is upon reassembly, my speaker is not working. I only get vibrate. So I had to assume that since there is no ribbon to the speaker it had to be making contact with those two contact points. I took it apart once again, and tried to re apply the charging port ribbon so that the gold contacts were exposed to the speaker module in the correct position. Any tips or tricks are appreciated.

I did have one washer after all was replaced . it was not perfectly round, but rather triangular shaped. It may have been in the spot where everyone loses the bracket/washer. I will pull it apart again tonight to see.

biff - 返信

so I replaced both the battery and the lightning cable in mine, and once I completed the reassembly process completely, the phone still will not charge or boot up.

It did not boot up or charge before hand, so I thought it was either the battery or the lightning port. the battery got pretty beat up during disassembly, so I ordered a new one along with a new port. the port failed a test with another battery.

I have gone back multiple times to make sure the cables are connected correctly and everything, so does anyone have any idea as to what the issue is or could be?

Ethan Clement - 返信

I've done it successfuly and it was my first time so it is possible even for beginners. I've even change the battery in the same time. It is not easy but you need time, self control and proper tools (mandatory).... But be carefull, the tutoriel hepls you to the step to change to part. But you will have to get some parts of the old lightning connector and put on the new one, so be very observative and don't throw too quickly the old part. Don't be afraid to compare them... But now i have made a second life to my lovely 5s and i'm really Happy... Thanks to this marvelous website which is really Good. I've bought all parts and tools in ifixit site and it was quick and professionnal. thanks to Ifixit. I want to repare everything now :-)

Blanchez - 返信

what if i dont put bracket and washer again?

Christos Zachos - 返信

I've read through this guide several times and it's not clear to me why you have to remove the screen assembly in order to replace the lightning port.

Bob Fishell - 返信

It's not necessary to detach the screen—just recommended in order to decrease the chance of accidental damage to the display ribbon cables. If you're careful, you can certainly open it up, disconnect the battery, and then skip straight to the speaker and Lightning connector steps.

Jeff Suovanen -

My screen is now not working, showing up vertical lines and unresponsive, I was very careful but i must of knocked somthing, any one had a similar experience or have any idea how to fix it?

Tmashi - 返信

Got my screen working again, by taking it apart and putting it back together. Now a new problem. only the apple symbol shows on the home screen been stuck like that for an hour

Tmashi -

worked a treat, was just very patient and careful when dis-assembling. Some bits did not come apart at first attempt. 'carefully wend back and redid steps, it worked. Taped sheets of paper to work area and labelled each part of the phone on the sheets as I went along also marked each step as per steps/screenshots on tutorial.

Just worked backwards on my numbered steps from my sheets. Patience is the key to getting this right first time.

Thanks for putting the tutorial together. Appreciated.

casey - 返信

Hi all,

I’ve my iPhone 5s that discharge very fast! at least 2-3h in stan-by.. I’ve change 2 batteries and also 2 lightning connector.. it’s possible that the lighting cable is not compatible with my iPhone?

Thanks!

Lorenzo

lorenzo - 返信

コメントを追加する

統計データを表示:

過去 24時間: 223

過去 7 日: 1,395

過去 30 日: 6,450

今までの合計 181,238