難易度
普通
手順
22
所要時間
45分
- Access Door 2手順
- Front Bezel 7手順
- Display 6手順
- Hard Drive 4手順
- Hard Drive 3手順
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このガイドはiFixitスタッフによって太鼓判が押されています。
はじめに
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Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac.
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Remove the access door from your iMac.
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Remove the three T8 Torx screws securing the front bezel to the rear panel.
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Use your thumbs to press both RAM arms in past the front bezel for enough clearance to lift it off the rear case.
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While holding the RAM arms in with your thumbs, lift the lower edge of the front bezel enough to clear the rear case.
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Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot at the top of the rear case.
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Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.
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Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.
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Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.
Using a strongish magnet will grab and release the latches.
Quote from darkstar448:
Using a strongish magnet will grab and release the latches.
Are you sure it's safe to do this? How close is the hard drive, won't magnets interfere with it?
It's almost certainly fine. Modern hard drives are very resistant to magnetic fields.
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Lay your iMac stand-side down on a table.
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Lift the front bezel from its lower edge and rotate it away from the rest of your iMac, minding the RAM arms that may get caught.
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Lay the front bezel above the rest of the iMac.
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If necessary, remove the piece of kapton tape wrapped around the microphone and camera cables.
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Disconnect both the camera and microphone cables.
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Peel back the aluminum EMI shield up off the lower three edges of the rear case.
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Remove the two 5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.
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Using its attached black tab, pull the display data cable connector up off the logic board.
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Pull the inverter cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.
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Peel back the aluminum EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.
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Remove the four recessed coarse-thread 7.5 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.
No problem taking those screws off, HUGE problem trying to put them back in. Reassembling this step is a lot more complicated. Those 4 screws are impossible to reinstall if you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, which I don't.
I used some 'chapstik' on my t10 driver and it held the screws long enough to insert them.
Quote from javier:
No problem taking those screws off, HUGE problem trying to put them back in. Reassembling this step is a lot more complicated. Those 4 screws are impossible to reinstall if you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, which I don't.
Since I could not get a hold on a nice magnetized T10, I inverted the whole unit and worked upside down to avoid lost screws inside an iMac.
Quote from javier:
Since I could not get a hold on a nice magnetized T10, I inverted the whole unit and worked upside down to avoid lost screws inside an iMac.
Great, now my problem is to find a new cable that connects the panel to LB.
I'm from Italy and nobody has got it .
Please help me
Thanks for all
Carlo
I found a group of wires not mentioned on the instructions along the underside of the display at the right. They were connected to something at the right bottom of the display near the white plastic piece. I am unable to raise the display more than a couple of inches at this side of it and am wondering what do do.
The group of wires on the right side of the display is the inverter. Seems like a few steps were omitted, so I'll try to fill in the gaps. Use the T10 to remove the right speaker. It's the big white plastic squarish thing on the bottom right side of the iMac. It pulls stright up and you can either disconnect it or just leave it hanging. This should release the inverter cable from hanging up the right side of the display (it did for me, even disconnecting the inverter didn't help as the cable was under the speaker, the inverter doesn't need to be disconnected but it might be helpful to disentangle things and it's an easy one to take apart). The other step missing is to remove the perforated tape at the top of the LCD from the LCD, otherwise you can't really remove it. I found a spudger helpful for this task.
I know it's a couple years since the OP posted, but hope this helps someone.
Cheers
Jeff Kamis
I've found that 'coating' the tip of the screwdriver with glue from a glue-stick will help to keep the screws from coming off of a non-magnetized driver.
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Lift the display from its lower edge and pull it toward yourself to peel it off the EMI shield attached to its top edge.
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Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor by pulling the connector away from its socket parallel to the face of the hard drive.
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Press the hard drive bracket down toward the bottom edge of your iMac to free it from the rear case, then rotate the top of the drive toward yourself.
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Lift the hard drive off its lower pins and pull it out of the rear case, minding the cables that are still attached.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the SATA power connector and the hard drive.
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Twist the spudger to separate the SATA power connector from the hard drive.
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Pull the SATA power connector away from the hard drive.
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Pull the SATA data cable away from the hard drive.
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Hard drive remains.
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Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the upper bracket to the hard drive.
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Remove the two T8 Torx pins on the connector side of the hard drive and transfer them to your new hard drive.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive thermal sensor off the hard drive.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
108 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
3コメント
Before I discovered IFIXIT I had purchased a hard drive from Western Digital and am hoping it is the correct one for my 17" iMac G5, 2 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo. The WD drive's description is TRESXLB2 7200 64M SATA3 6GB/S 1.0 TB 2HD STD . Can anyone tell me if I will have problems with this drive? Western Digital's recommendations fit this description for my iMac. Thank you. Ron
Excellent presentation. My iMac G5 came apart easily just as described. The unit still worked perfectly but had been on the shelf for years as the screen was almost blacked out with lines. The G5 was replaced with an Intel model but I miss certain aspects of the old system. I'm hoping the HDD will boot up a G5 Power Mac so I can reminisce!
