はじめに
ディスプレイアセンブリ全体ではなく、LCDだけを交換すると、経費の節約にも繋がります。この修理ガイドは防眩ディスプレイには適用されません。
必要な工具と部品
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バッテリ上端の、2本のペンタローブネジを外します。
Question: why do you remove the battery? According to Apple's official manual, this is not required (not for the mid-2009 and not for the mid-2010 15-inch MacBook Pro) - see pages 37 ff:
alexkliからの引用：
Question: why do you remove the battery? According to Apple's official manual, this is not required (not for the mid-2009 and not for the mid-2010 15-inch MacBook Pro) - see pages 37 ff:
I'm interested by your experience.
Did you have removed the optical drive without removing the battery ?
I'm just in this step now and if it is possible I would proceed like you because removing the battery void the warranty (and there is a sticker).
Thanks in advance.
Looks like my note to step 3 appears on all repair guides that have the same step. I meant that in the context of the hard drive replacement only.
Did you have removed the optical drive without removing the battery ?
I haven't yet done anything, waiting for my MacBook Pro 15 inch mid-2010 to arrive.
I missed the notes and went ahead and purchased the 5 point driver for the battery before I realized it was not necessary.
I've edited the repair guide to remove the section on the battery, but I don't have the points to approve the changes.
Please note - the step about removing the battery is part of a pre-requisite guide, that is used for many of the guides, most that do require removal of the battery. Also, working inside a disassembled laptop with the battery still connected risks damaging/shorting out very expensive parts.
Eric Essen - 返信
Absolutely. To be clear -- ALL of the above discussion is ONLY in reference to replacing the hard drive.
I replaced a hard drive in a MacBook Pro of an earlier model than this without removing the battery. The hard drive wasn't right. It only worked at about half speed, and I had to replace it once more. The second time I removed the battery and all went well. The recommendation by the iFixit staff to remove the battery before working on electronic equipment is a good one.
What is the size of those screws... I have rounded off the socket on mine and would like to replace them.
I measured the screw size, using a micrometer, its about 1.523mm in diameter and 3.186mm in length. Not sure what screw size that is. They are not easily available I guess, unless someone is selling used ones on ebay
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バッテリー上部についているプラスチックのプルタブを使って、上部ケースからバッテリーを上へスライドさせてずらします。
My T6 (appears to be same screw driver you have - $6 on amazon for 20piece set) did NOT fit int he battery screws...not sure if I had the wrong screws or what, but I went ahead w/o battery steps and it was pretty easy.
I also noticed that the new SDD (from crucial) didn't have the 4 screws, so I had to move those off the old HD and onto the new one.
Just had the same issue: T6 does not fit the battery screws ;-( ... but with a little bit more preassure it was possible to remove the screws.
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バッテリーケーブルコネクターの接続を切る際には、バッテリーを十分に傾けて下に隙間を作ってください。
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バッテリーケーブルのコネクターをメイン基板のソケットから手前に引いて接続を切り、バッテリーを上部ケースから取り外します。
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作業を始める前に、ディスプレイガラスを湿らせたリントフリーの布で綺麗に拭き取ってください。こうすることで、吸盤カップが装着しやすくなり、再組み立ての際、汚れチェックが簡単になります。
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ヒートガンを弱にして、ガラスパネルの上部右側端附近の黒色ボーダーの外側から温めます。
Another caution is needed - the heat gun is capable of discoloring the LCD panel (giving uneven coloration) if it overheats. This is possible on the low setting. Proceed cautiously, heating in increments until the glass releases.
I was wondering the same, is absolutely necessary to disassemble the screen to change the glass? Can I jump to step 21?
caholzmann - 返信
To change just the glass I used a hair dryer it gives off enough heat to do the job. Stand the computer up on its cover with the key board standing up.start at a corner heat the adhesive as you go along. I Put credit cards in as I went along so the adhesive doesn't stick again. take your time . Its easy.
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パネルに十分熱が当てられたら、重量用吸盤カップをディスプレイガラスの上部右側端にしっかりと取り付けます。
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ディスプレイアセンブリからディスプレイガラスをゆっくりと丁寧に引き上げます。
Sufficiently heated is a meaningless phrase here. Is it two minutes? Three? Fifteen? An hour? I have tried doing this for increasing amounts of time while avoiding doing damage to the machine, and nothing is working. Sufficient heating needs definition.
Hi Keith, the key here is that you want to warm the adhesive that's spread thoroughly behind the masked-black area of the glass around the screen to release, but not put enough heat at the rubber gasket that seals the closed top lid to the base. Too much heat, too soon, will deform the rubber. Too much and you'll never get the glass to release. The 2x that I have done this, however, even with sufficient (and significant) heat, I remember the glass taking a surprising amount of leverage to pull clear. A tactic: using your heat gun warm all the sides of the display from the front, in a circulating/racetrack fashion - about 20 rpm. After 30sec, focus on the left and top sides, seesawing from bottom left, to top left, to top right, and back. Do that at the same pace, about 5-10 passes. Then spend about 10 sec waving over the whole top left corner. That should get enough heat to enough places to help the glass separate to start placing picks, and you can continue to heat the margins as you progress.
johnkimmel - 返信
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ディスプレイガラスの角を丁寧に持ち上げて、ディスプレイアセンブリとディスプレイガラスの間にスパッジャーを差し込みます。
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイとフロントガラスを固定している接着剤をこじ開けます。
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右側上部の角からディスプレイ上部と右側端に沿って、ガラスパネルを約4〜5cm持ち上げて外します。
Be patient and work slowly or else you will crack the glass like me.
I can not get the glass to come up despite two tries and dicsoloring the LCD with too much heat. Why can't I get the glass to budge at all?
bollucks66 - 返信
It is better , instead of using the suction cup , to use small flat end spudger . The suction cup should be used first to detach the window from the gasket , not furthermore as it may brake the glass.
I didn’t have large suction cups and the small ones didn’t work for me. Instead, I used an opening tool to pry up the glass slightly and got a guitar pick under it. Then I slowly worked the pick around the top three sides of the glass, heating sections of glue as I went.
I’ve managed to do it using hair dryer on max. First corner was though and took a lot of time to lift it. I decided to heat not only a corner but whole length and then it came off. I’ve put so much heat that was afraid I’ve damaged LCD, but it works fine. As BillyRachel1 said: patience is the way. In order to assemble it back I used old glue heated again. It’s easy but takes time.
Note: Don’t do this at home if you have cats otherwise you going to spend next hour or so trying to remove their fur from between glass and LCD. It’s because they all levitate after using hot air and just wait to stick to the screen again.
To be honest hardest thing was replacing clutch cover, took me so much time and I eventually cracked it.
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ヒートガンを使って、フロントガラスパネルの右側に沿って熱を当て、黒いストリップの下に留められた接着剤を柔らかくします。
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吸盤カップをフロントガラスパネルの右側沿いに取り付けます。
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使ってディスプレイアセンブリの残り部分からガラスパネルを外しながら、パネルを引き上げます。
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ディスプレイからフロントディスプレイガラスが外れるまで、ディスプレイガラス右側端に沿ってスパッジャーでこじ開けます。
I used old credit cards
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これでガラスの上部、左、右がディスプレイから解放されました。ゆっくりとガラスパネルの上部端を持ち上げて、ディスプレイから外します。
If you will be reusing the glass, with new adhesive, then you will want to remove the old adhesive. This is a bit of a pain, as alcohol doesn't work, and you need to be careful to avoid damaging the black screen border, which is black paint on the back (adhesive) side of the glass.
To remove the adhesive, note that it is actually a thin film with rubber cement on both sides. First, use a razor to carefully pull up one corner of the film and gently peel it off of the glass. If you are gentle and slow, the underlying adhesive may also come off; if not, then rubbing with your finger or a hard rubber eraser will do the trick.
If this is a rubber cement based glue, then would rubber solvent / thinner like N-Heptane help the removal process without damaging the black paint ?
Sandman619 - 返信
Don’t remove glue. Just reuse it by heating and sticking it again.
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フロントベゼルにLCDパネルを取り付けている2.9 mmプラスネジを6本外します。
Hey guys, I need to get the part where the screws are on, whats its name or where could I find it? That part on my Computer broke.... Do you guys think its possible to guet it somewhere?
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、LCD上のソケットにディスプレイのデータケーブルを固定している薄いスチール製の固定クリップを裏返します。
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ディスプレイデータケーブルをLCD上のソケットからまっすぐ引き抜きます。
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LCDをディスプレイアセンブリから持ち上げて、デバイスの脇に置きます。
Danke für das Bereitstellen der Anleitung dadurch konnte ich mein MacBook nach 12 Jahren Einsatz, für die nächsten Jahre fit machen.
Thanks you for providing this Manuel. It helped me, after 12 year of use to make my MacBook fit for the coming years.
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
34 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
9 件のコメント
General : Is there instruction available if you have the anti-glare displays? Or do you officially recommand to change the LCD AND THE GLASS, if we want to keep the anti-glare displays? Can we order the anti-glare displays here? Thanks! =)
I have a Macbook Pro Unibody 15" (2009) can I switch the whole display and lid with a Macbook Pro 15" (2011)and is the airport card piece for both models in the display?...
No, you can’t, because of the camera cable connector, different from the 2011 model.
Where can i get the metal frame that runs through the LCD assembly.
Same question for me!
Its not a replaceable part
Dan -
May be helpful to have more distinct colors to identify the different screws.
Victor Caamano - 返信