はじめに

バッテリーは6つの個別セルで作られており、上部ケースに固定されています。キットにある接着剤リムーバーにより、バッテリーに付けられた接着剤を溶解し、簡単に取り出すことが可能となります。バッテリーは6つのセルからできており、そのうち4つのバッテリーは上部ケースに接着されています。

iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは可燃性が高いです。このリムーバーを使って作業をする際は、通気性のよい場所で行ってください。作業中、付近で喫煙したり、火器のある場所で行わないでください。

'''安全のため、お持ちのMacBook Proのバッテリーを0%まで消耗してください。充電されたリチウムイオンバッテリーはアクシデントで穴が空いてしまった場合、危険性が増し制御不可能な引火が発生する恐れがあります。ご注意ください。

ご注意: リムーバーはMacBook Proのプラスチック製スピーカーエンクロージャ(筐体)などのような、ある箇所のプラスチックにダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。リムーバーを散布する際は丁寧に作業を行ってください。

  1. 底ケースと上部ケースを留めている次のネジを10本外します。
    • 底ケースと上部ケースを留めている次のネジを10本外します。

      • 2.3 mm P5ペンタロープネジー2本

      • 3.0 mm P5 ペンタロープネジー8本

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  2. 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。
    • 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

    • 丁寧に底ケースを上部ケースから外していきます。

    • 完全に底ケースを取り出します。

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    • 底ケースは上部ケースに中央部分にある2本のプラスチッククリップで繋がっています。

    • 再組み立ての際は丁寧に2本のプラスチッククリップが再装着するように底ケースの中央に押し込みます。

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    • バッテリーボードに装着されているプラスチックカバーを外します。

    This plastic cover wasn’t included with the new battery so I placed the original one back in. Was it supposed to go back in? This detail wasn’t clear since the original cover didn’t fit exactly over the newer battery connector. Plus any stickiness of adhesive that may have been there was gone.

    arnolfo santoro - 返信

    • ロジックボードにバッテリーボードを取り付けている次のネジを外します。

      • 2.8 mm T6トルクスネジー2本

      • 7.0 mm T6トルクス肩付きネジー1本

    Top screw in this image was not a T6. I found that a T5 bit fit this one.

    Alex Grayson - 返信

    • ピンセットを使って、バッテリーコネクターボードの右側底付近にある小さいプラスチックカバーを取り出します。

    Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

    Andrew - 返信

    • バッテリーコネクターをロジックボードアセンブリに留めている広幅の6.4 mm T6トルクスネジを外します。

    I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?

    Gerardo Jimenez - 返信

    • 丁寧にロジックボードからバッテリーコネクターボードを引き上げます。

    • 若干バッテリーケーブルを曲げてください。ボードがロジックボード上で引き上げられた状態にして、作業の邪魔にならないようにします。

    • ボードを完全に折り曲げたり、ケーブルにしわを入れないでください。バッテリーにダメージを与えてしまいます。

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    • ピンセットでインターポーザーを掴みます。

      • インターポーザーとはLSI間の接続を担う役割を持つインターフェイスの名称です。この修理ではバッテリーとロジックボードを接続しているボードを対象とします。

    • インターポーザーをロジックボードから引き上げて外します。

      • このボードを取り外す際は修理作業中、バッテリーが完全に外されているか確認してください。コンピューターがアクシデントにより再起動しないようにご注意ください。バッテリーを取り出しておく事もおすすめです。

    WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.

    Behram Beldagli - 返信

    You don’t want to work on a live system as you could damage parts

    Dan -

    How can I remove interposer I m not able to remove it

    Raunak - 返信

    you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.

    duncan rmi -

    What happens if the Battery Contact Board fails?

    racoon2956 - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、出入力ボードデータケーブルコネクターの右側を出入力ボード上のソケットから引き上げます。

    • 出入力ボードデータケーブルコネクターをソケットから引き上げる際は、コネクターのみに接触し、ソケットには触らないようにご注意ください。ソケットをこじ開けてしまうと出入力ボードに決定的なダメージを与えてしまいます。

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    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、出入力ボードデータケーブルコネクターの左側底に差し込みます。

    • 丁寧にスパッジャーを曲げて、ロジックボード上のソケットから出入力ボードケーブルコネクターの接続を外します。

    This step is NOT really necessary. The trackpad can be removed with this cable still in place.

    Robert - 返信

    • MacBook Proから出入力ボードデータケーブルを引き上げて外します。

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    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、SSDケーブルコネクターをロジックボードのソケットから引き上げます。

    • SSDケーブルコネクターを作業の邪魔にならない位置に動かします。

    Because it is attached to the battery with a tiny bit of tape near where the spudger is in the picture, this cable should probably be loosened. But it is NOT necessary to remove the speaker entirely.

    Robert - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端をスピーカーケーブルコネクターの右側下に差し込みます。

    • 右側スピーカーケーブルのコネクターをロジックボードのソケットから丁寧に引き上げます。

    • コネクターのみを引き上げるように注意してください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

    When reassembling be careful that the right speaker wire is flush against the battery. At first, it was slightly touching the airport/bluetooth board causing wifi and bluetooth to not work after restarting.

    Stu - 返信

    NOT truly necessary to remove either speaker.

    Robert - 返信

    • 上部ケースに留められた右側のスピーカーより次のネジを外します。

      • 6.8 mm T5 トルクスネジー1本

      • 6.3 mm T5 トルクスネジー2本

    • 端に留められたネジにはフォーム製パッドで覆われている場合があります。その場合は、ピンセットを使ってパッドを取り除いてください。

    There are two 6.8mm screws, both fit to the side of the Macbook.

    Bhoom Suktitipat - 返信

    On my "Early 2013" A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

    Matt Sephton - 返信

    On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is covered by foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

    Matt Sephton - 返信

    For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge that needs to be removed before the screw can be accessed.

    Matt Sephton - 返信

    For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge

    Matt Sephton - 返信

    For me the corner screw was covered

    Matt Sephton - 返信

    • 上部ケースから右側のスピーカーを引き上げて取り出します。

    • 必要に応じて、上部ケース回路から右側のスピーカーケーブルを外します。

    NOT necessary to remove this speaker.

    Robert - 返信

    Yes it is…the speakers cover up the three screws on each side that hold in the battery.

    Redwolf - 返信

    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ヘッドフォンジャックケーブルコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ引き上げます。

    • 丁寧にヘッドフォンジャックケーブルをロジックボードに対して直角に曲げます。

    • ヘッドフォンジャックケーブルを直角に曲げる事で、ヘッドフォンジャックケーブルが邪魔にならずに左側のスピーカーケーブルコネクターの接続を外すことができます。

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    • スパッジャーの先端を左側スピーカーケーブルコネクターに差し込みます。

    • 左側のスピーカーケーブルコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから引き上げます。

    • コネクターのみ引き上げるようにご注意ください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

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    • 上部ケースに左側スピーカーを留めている次のネジを外します。

      • 6.8 mm T5トルクスネジ(右側上)ー1本

      • 6.3 mm T5トルクスネジー2本

    • コーナーのネジはフォーム製パッドでカバーされている場合があります。その場合はピンセットで取り外してください。

    The 6.3mm screw appears to be on the lower central part of the Macbook that I'm working on.

    Bhoom Suktitipat - 返信

    On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the screw in the corner is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed before the screw.

    Matt Sephton - 返信

    Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!

    Stacey Deel - 返信

    • 上部ケースから左側スピーカーを持ち上げて取り出します。

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    • 親指を使ってSSDトレイ上のプラスチック製バネ付きバーを曲げ、デバイスの正面側にある2つのクリップを外します。

    • バネ付きバーを押さえながら、SSDアセンブリをスペースから外すように前向き押し上げます。

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    • 上部ケースからSSD アセンブリを取り出します。

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    • バッテリーの両側から2.2 mmの T5トルクスネジを3本外します。(合計6本)

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    • キットに付いてくる接着剤リムーバーはMacBook Proディスプレイの反射防止コートに影響することがあります。

    • ディスプレイを保護するために、作業中はディスプレイとキーボードの間にアルミホイルシートを差し込んでください。

    Steps 24-34 are UNNECESSARY for this repair! Removing the adhesive portion of the battery is not required to remove the trackpad. Just lift up the top part of the battery that is screwed in and unplug the trackpad cable.

    bizwfshane - 返信

    • MacBook Proの準備はできました。次に作業をするご自身の準備をしましょう。

    • iFixitの接着剤リムーバーは皮膚へのダメージが少なく、目への刺激も低いアセトンを含んでいます。

      • 接着剤リムーバーを使用する際は、必ず保護メガネを着用してください。(保護メガネはキットに同封されています)

      • 保護メガネの着用無しで、コンタクトレンズを装着しないでください。

      • 保護グローブもキットに同封されています。皮膚への刺激を心配される方は、グローブも着用してください。

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    • 接着剤リムーバーを開封してください。

    • キットに同封されているスポイトに少量(約1–2ml)採取します。

      • 採取しすぎてしまうと、アクシデントで多量のリムーバーが出てしまうため、一回あたり約1–2ml以上採取しないでください。

      • この手順全体で、必要に応じてスポイトにリムーバーを採取します。

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    • バッテリーセル左端の下に、約1ml分の接着剤リムーバーを均等に注入します。

    • 液体状の接着リムーバーがバッテリーセルの下に浸透するまで、約2–3分間待機してください。それから次の手順に移ります。

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    • スパッジャーの平面側先端をバッテリーセルの一番左側の底に差し込みます。

    • バッテリー周囲の下に沿ってスパッジャーをスライドさせながら、接着剤を剥がします。

    This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.

    Ahmed Almulhim - 返信

    I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.

    Matt Sephton - 返信

    we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)

    Allen Lin - 返信

    Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.

    Jeff Suovanen - 返信

    This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.

    lukecparr -

    by a plastic card, do you mean a credit card type thing? thanks in advance.

    Jennifer McPherson - 返信

    Exactly—one of these or an old credit card should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • 一番左側のバッテリーセルの左側下からスパッジャーを差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーを一番左側のバッテリーセルの左側に沿って動かします。

    • 一番左側のバッテリーセルの接着剤を剥がすため、わずか上方に押し上げます。

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    • 一番左側のバッテリーセルの上部部分を外すため、スパッジャの平面側先端を持ち上げます。

      • 少量(約1ml)の接着剤リムーバーをバッテリーセルの下に注入します。

      • 接着剤リムーバーが浸透するまで2−3分間待機して、接着剤を柔らかくします。

      • バッテリーにダメージを与えないように注意しながら、丁寧にスパッジャーやプラスチックカードを内部に押し込みます。MacBook Proに留められた接着剤を剥がしてバッテリーセルを取り出します。

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    • 一番左側のバッテリーセルの下にスパッジャー平面側先端を奥まで差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーを内部奥まで差し込む際はバッテリーセルにダメージを与えないように丁寧に作業を行ってください。

    • バッテリーセルを上部ケースから押し上げます。

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    • バッテリーセルを掴んで、上部ケースの角から丁寧に動かしますが、完全に外さないでください。

    • 3番目の画像中にあるように、上部ケースの上に取り出した二つのバッテリーセルを置きます。

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    • 反対側のバッテリーセルに作業を移します。MacBook Pro右側2つのバッテリーセルについても同じ作業を繰り返します。

      • 約1mlの液体接着剤リムーバーをバッテリーセルの下に注入してください。それからセルをこじ開ける前に、液体が浸透するまで約2−3分間待ちます。

      • バッテリーセルに穴を開けたり、ダメージを与えないようにご注意ください。

    Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.

    Chris Leeds - 返信

    • バッテリーを上部ケースから完全に取り出します。

    • 新しいバッテリーを装着する前に、MacBook Proのケースから残った接着剤を綺麗に取り出します。

      • 運が良ければ、ゆっくりと指で各接着ストリップを剥がせます。

      • そうでない場合は、各バッテリーセルの下に接着剤リムーバーを少量ずつ付けます。2−3分間待った後、開口ピックやお持ちのツールで接着剤をこすり落とします。この作業には少し忍耐が必要です。

      • 残りのバッテリーセルについても接着剤リムーバーを付けて同じ作業を繰り返します。それからMacBook Proを数分間、空気乾燥させます。

    • 交換用バッテリーはiFixitキットに接着剤と一緒に同封されています。接着剤のフォルムを剥がす前に、バッテリーの配置やフィット感を確認してください。もし余分なフォルムやライナーがある場合は、この交換用バッテリーキットはお持ちのバッテリーと合致しませんので取り出してください。

    • デバイスの使用前に新しいバッテリーの残量を調整してください。一晩置いて0%まで消耗してから一気に100%まで充電します。そして再び、MacBook Proが自動でシャットダウンするまでバッテリーを0%まで消費させます。その後、再充電をした以降は通常通り使用できます。

    • 新しいバッテリーの装着後、何か様子が通常と異なる場合はMacBook ProのSMCをリセットする必要があります。

    During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!

    Fred Ziegler - 返信

    If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?

    jaredcastello - 返信

    Yes!! If uppercase Assembly(Includes Trackpad, keyboard, Palmrest & BATTERY) is being replaced, there is no need to remove battery from old uppercase assembly.

    lamajr -

    Wie setze ich die Zyklen wieder auf 0 wenn ich einen neuen Akku verbaut habe?

    Albert Zweistein - 返信

    @Albert: you don’t need to reset the cycles as it is done automatically.

    Serge Struß - 返信

    When you are at this step and before you put the new battery in, take the time to clean your computer really well. You will be surprised how much dust/dirt and even pet hairs have gotten into your computer. After I removed the battery, I use a little more of the acetone to clean the bays up and after it dried, I used a tiny bit of Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure there was a good clean area for the new bonding. Make sure you clean the fans. Don’t use a toothbrush or anything like that. If your have a Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy a shop vac attachment kit for about $20, it’s well worth it. Don’t use that air in a can crap, it will put moisture on circuits. Take your time, it’s not a hard task to do everything, just use a little patience.

    Stacey Deel - 返信

    thanks to everyone for the helpful comments along with this really good tick list of things to do. The main thing I have learned is, I don’t have the patience to do this so I am taking my macbook pro (early 2013) 90 odd miles to my nearest Apple store with a Genuis bar. They can sort it for me. They might charge a lot to do it, but at least it will be them risking messing the process up not me! Thanks again.

    Jennifer McPherson - 返信

    Really well done on this. I followed it to a T. Perfect. Thank you for all your work on this.

    Stephen Johnson - 返信

    Excellently communicated.

    Andrew Goldberg - 返信

    I wouldn’t have thought to drain my old battery! (Which means I cannot begin my ‘new battery install’ until later today.

    Andrew Goldberg - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

141 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

70%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Walter Galan

568,793 ポイント

1,203のガイドは作成済み

Hi where can u buy the battery for these

Kevin Higgins - 返信

Did you find out where to buy?

Uli -

There is a much easier way to get the batteries out. If you look at the 2 cells on either side (left and right), you will notice that they put them in an area that is slightly lowered. This is by design. To remove the batteries, pour a small amount of 90% isopropyl alcohol on both sides and let it sit for about 30 to 45 mins. It will dissolve the glue and you can gently then lift out the batteries without any prying. After you remove the batteries, simply wipe up any remaining alcohol, let it dry, buff it clean, and insert the new battery. Considerably easier and safer than potentially damaging the battery packs. If you are putting the same battery pack back, just use double sided tape. IMPORTANT NOTE: ALWAYS BE SAFE USING ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL AROUND FLAMES OR ANYTHING THAT MIGHT MAKE IT BURN. ALSO, NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRY THE BATTERIES IN ANY WAY IF ANY ALCOHOL IS STILL POTENTIALLY PRESENT!! WAIT UNTIL IT IS EVAPORATED!!

jimhoffa69 - 返信

Thank You for the hint with the alcohol, but where can I buy a spare battery?

Uli -

looks like they run for $100 on ebay

bluto20 - 返信

They are on amazon for around $60-$70.

Noah -

Prying the battery out is HARD! and VERY dangerous. I tried using a flat head screwdriver, put it under the battery and twisting the thing out. DO NOT DO THAT!! as it can punch a hole in the battery if you twist it too hard. I had a small smoke coming off by doing that and was lucky enough it didn't burn. Using isopropyl would be an ideal solution. But to bad I can't find that around here :(.

[DO THIS ON YOUR OWN RISK] What I ended up doing is using the screwdriver to gouge the underlying glue out as much as I can on the side (about 10%) and use fingers to pry it up. Good luck!

Hlung - 返信

Perfect! not as difficult as it looked first, especially with the proper tools. To take the batteries out the alcohol (I used ethanol used for cleaning purposes) works like charm. I put a few ml in nearby the batteries, waited maybe 20min and was able to pry them out easily. Tried before without the alocohol and nothing moved. I ordered the battery on ebay for 70€ and it has the same numbers and text as the original it says apple japan as well. My old battery had more than a thousand cycles after 3 years and did not last vey long. Now the software shows 0 cycles and it is charging starting at 15% and will be fully charged in 2:45h. I think apple charges 249€ for the job here in Gernany. It took me about 1 hour to replace it (with waiting).

Olaf Querhammer - 返信

How much ethanol was necessary to remove the battery? Did you use a spudger or similar to pry it out? I just put about 3 ml of Isopropanol nearby the battery and waited for about 30 minutes. Unfortunately I couldn't remove it though. It still was firmly glued.

Tim Bo -

Thanks for the excellent instructions. They were easy to follow and the new battery is working. I purchased my battery on Amazon from Brtong for $49.99. I just installed it so I don't know how long it will last but it was new and the cheapest price. It came with two tools to remove all the screws.

derrymatheson - 返信

This is a great resource. Thanks to all that contributed to this. I was able to replace my battery today and all went well. I had a very hard time removing the old battery. The spudger broke on me and I was afraid to use alcohol so I used a screw driver and sure enough, sparks flew removing the old battery. But got it done.

Thanks again to all and ifixit.com

aljimenez - 返信

Thanks for the guide! Perfectly presented. Took me about an hour following the steps.

Todor Lirkov - 返信

t's very important to keep organized during this replacement for ease of reassembly as there may be different size/length screws in the same step.

Someone else had mentioned using isopropyl alcohol to remove the adhesive from the batteries which is truly a great idea.

In my specific case, isopropyl alcohol was not something I had on hand. As a substitute, I used my wife's nail polish remover since Acetone evaporates fairly well (yay high school science class FTW) and sure enough, they came loose no problem. This method is NOT guaranteed, but to the careful DIYer can work great in a pinch.

Daniel Conley - 返信

Followed this point to point description and it worked like a charm (Isopropyl alcohol also helped)! (Isopropyl alcohol is sold under different brand names.)

Screws described in points 15 and 19 are not exactly as my MacBook. You describe 2 long and 1 short. I have 1 short black screw and 2 long screws (1 black and 1 silver) - the silver one in the corner and is hidden and covered by "metal wool" (peel it of).

Einar - 返信

Sadly this was a disaster for me.

All went well at first. I was able to follow all the instructions, and I used some alcohol, since the batteries were very hard to remove. Make sure the force you apply is aimed downward, to scrape through into the adhesive. And don't use much. When the battery is ready to come up free, it will. Don't rush it and pry upward until it's really starting to lift, meaning the glue is giving way.

The rest of the instructions are easy, so I thought. I actually managed to break the left speaker connector from the board. I wasn't too worried, as I don't use the computer speakers much anyway. On reassembly, I tried to glue the connector back. Doubt that worked.

I was able to reassemble the whole machine. When I powered it on (with cable), the battery was recognized (system report) but WOULD NOT charge. The system then started to degrade. Mouse and keyboard started malfunctioning. It's dead. Will return the battery, and go shopping.

Gene - 返信

Just performed this today suing the same brtong battery from Amazon that someone else mentioned. $50 on Amazon. The instructions were perfect. All worked like a charm. I was scared off at first due to the stated difficulty. It is possible the glue on mine wasnt very good maybe. But seriously, anyone considering doing this, do it. It is not hard. And well worth it.

Aaron West - 返信

Worked like a charm. Except my batteries were harder to pry off than the guide would lead me to believe. Other than that, perfect, and now I've got a brand new battery. Tip: the batteries for late 2012 AND early 2013 13" MacBook Pros are the same, so you can get a battery that's listed as either.

danqaurooni - 返信

Really useful and unbelievably specific instruction. All crystal clear on every step.

The battery removal part was really tricky, and I ended up making a wedger of my own - about 4 cm wide plywood piece that I cut at an angle (so there would be a wedge) and sanded smooth (to not damage the batteries). I found that the wide tool provided much more lifting force, while distributing the pressure equally along the whole length of battery sides.

It's definitely not as hard as it first seems. Go for it!

uldiszeidurs - 返信

Just finished replacing my battery. 30 minutes start to finish. There's nothing difficult or too risky if you keep organized and follow these excellent step-by-step instructions. Couple of tips: absolutely agree with using isopropyl alcohol to loosen old adhesive, also – I printed out the instructions and just taped the screws/parts to the appropriate step/picture with a bit of masking tape and stacked them on top of each other as I went (in order), this way going back was a breeze! Go for it!

Steven Lubensky - 返信

Fantastic instructions!I had no issues completing the battery change in a little over an hour, at a leisurely pace. Took my time to make sure I did every step just right. Acetone worked for me (Thanks for the tip Daniel). Slightly different screws from those in the instructions, as with Einar. Had the instructions on my desktop while doing the battery change on the laptop. Now the new battery is in full charge, and the MacBook works as before. The battery is not an OEM part, so we'll see how long it will last... Thank you Walter + all who chipped in!

Jouni - 返信

Thank you- is there any place where I can buy the correct tools to remove the battery?

dalia rochwarger - 返信

I bought all tools on Aliexpress, it costs there just few dollars.

micer -

Really helpful guide, I just installed a new battery and seems like it works great! It took me about 2 hours, the tricky part was to remove the old battery as others said. I used some liquid for glue removal, I think it should be available in every shop with paints and lacquers etc. I took a piece of fabric, put it into the liquid and pushed it under the battery until I could easily remove it. Finally not so difficult, but I can't imagine removing the battery without the liquid to melt the glue. Btw I bought a battery on Aliexpress for $45, hope it'll live for a while.

micer - 返信

I wasn't difficult, I recommend you to use an old credit card to remove the batteries, this will help you a lot!!

wg.varela - 返信

I just installed a new Egoway Macbook Pro 13 inch Retina Display battery (the instructions were great!). Powered it up and got nothing. Plugged it in and it worked but my battery icon has a 'X' through it and it says 'No Battery Available'.

Can someone please help????

Thank you!

ha.robert - 返信

Try resetting the SMC. (This is in the guide, but it's the very last step so folks sometimes overlook it. It pays to read to the end!)

Jeff Suovanen -

Hello

I performed the battery change without problems. But the battery connector board becomes super hot immediately after making contact with the mother board. And the machine has the same problems as before.

Is this a short on the mother board/SMC? Or could I have gotten a faulty battery replacement?

Thanks

Sune Frederiksen - 返信

Hi Jeff. I tried that. Still didn't work.

ha.robert - 返信

I suppose it's possible you got a defective battery. I would try reconnecting the old battery and see whether that solves the problem. You may not have to re-do the entire procedure—instead, see if you can disconnect the new battery you already installed, lay the old battery directly on top of it, plug it in, and tape it down temporarily so you can flip the laptop over and boot it up. If this resolves this issue, you probably have a bad battery. And if it doesn't, drop your question into a post in our Answers forum for more detailed troubleshooting. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Great Guide - Thanks!

My repair went off without a hitch. I used iFixit's part-only new replacement battery (which showed full capacity after installation) and my wife's nail polish remover as a solvent to loosen the adhesive. I poured a few ml's into each slight depression (i.e. under each battery pair), left that for around 20 mins to evaporate, then poured a tiny bit in again and gently pried each battery out with a spudger.

PS - I see the guide lists a T7 Torx as one of the needed tools, but I can't see where that would be needed in this repair. T5, T6 and P5 were all I needed.

Andrew - 返信

The instructions were phenomenal!!! Congratulations to the author. I installed a SIKER11.21V 74WH that I bought from Amazon for $62.99. The only challenge I had is that the adhesive strips that came with the new battery were completely useless as I wasn’t able to remove the plastic layers that were covering them. I ended up removing the adhesives and used double-adhesive tape instead. The thickness was about right and there is little space for the battery cells to move once installed. The battery seems to be functioning well and is charging. Good luck to those adventurers willing to try.

Sergio Shkurovich - 返信

Took about one hour. Pictures and directions and others comments were OUTSTANDING!

Turned on and speakers worked without a problem. Now letting the new battery drain.

Thanks for the great instructions and including everything I needed in the kit.

Harvey Glick - 返信

The operation seems to have worked fine for me, but afterwards I notice that the backlight for the bottom-center part of the keyboard is not lighting. The rest of the keyboard lights up just fine, so it’s really no trouble finding the keyboard in the dark.

I suspect that I was a little too liberal with the acetone and some of the overflow damaged one (or a few) of the keyboard LEDs. Another reason to be careful with how much solvent you apply.

Adam Smith - 返信

This is an absolutely wonderful guide. Thanks very much for providing it.

Don Abrams - 返信

Very nice guide, and the plastic alignment jig in the replacement battery was great!

I did find I was missing some of the bits promised in the repair kit. I pulled out my generic Apple toolkit I’d bought a few years back, but was missing the driver for the six tiny screws holding down the main battery. A tiny flat blade fit and I was able to get them out. I then pulled out the syringe for the acetone….why is it clinking? Syringes don’t clink….and there were the missing bits, slipped inside the handle of the syringe during shipment!

Redwolf - 返信

Almost had a mini heart attack when the fans went on as soon as I reconnected the battery to the motherboard. SMC reset made everything work fine. Thanks for this guide!

mazedlx - 返信

This is a very easy operation. Yes, you can do it in a few less steps, but I chose to do it EXACTLY like the instructions, that way I had the least amount of opportunity to break anything. Yes, potentially removing so many items you have an opportunity to break something, but in my opinion, it’s worth it. At least you learn where the components are and what they look like that way. Very good guide. I’m not sure of their other guides, but if they are like this one, it definitely saves $100 bucks in labor plus $199 for the battery at an Apple Store!

Stacey Deel - 返信

Great guide. The only thing I’d recommend is that when you put the new battery in, don’t stick it down until you’re happy with where it’s going, and that the position leaves a slight gap between the battery packs, and that there’s also room for the speakers.

In my case I had one issue - the interposer wasn’t sitting properly so although the magsafe showed an orange light for charging, when booted up into the OS it showed that it wasn’t charging. I had to go back in and re-seat the interposer. Now working fine!

Stuart - 返信

Do not be scared by the ‘Difficult’ label! If you ever assembled legos as a kid, this should be no problem for you. Just follow the instructions and you’ll be set. Some things I wish I knew that the guide does not mention:

1. The additional screwdriver bits are inside of it. Pull the cap off the end to find them. Took me about 20 mins to realize this.

2. The kit no longer comes with the syringe so no need to mix anything/draw it up. Just use the tip dispenser for the acetone remover.

3. When you put the battery in and are ready to take the plastic cover off, don’t pull up on the blue tipped pull tabs. You have to pull them outwards horizontally and they will come out. I kept pulling them up and away and they were just tearing. Led to me literally needing to snap/break the plastic card attached to battery to get it off.

Good luck and great replacement kit!

jaga8453 - 返信

Muchas gracias, la compra y el envío sin problemas. Hoy la recibí y en un rato coloqué la batería. Un éxito, gracias a todos los que contribuyeron a que esto sucediera

José Pablo Ramos - 返信

Absolutely amazing! It was the first time I ever opened a Macbook Pro, but it took me less than 60 minutes to reboot with the new battery. All rolled out smoothly. with a minor hindrance when reattaching the battery connector. The wiring was a bit stiff so I had to proceed with even more caution. As for the rest, awesome 90€ investment in my MBP to have it juiced up again. Just reset the SMC and I am 69% with 5H6M remaining. Thank you, Walter and ifixit!

bucovina.booking - 返信

I decided not to use the adhesive on the new battery- why make life difficult for the next time the battery needs swapping out? the cells will rattle if you don’t fix them somehow, though, so after I was sure everything was working (coconut battery app can read make & s/n of new battery, & states capacity as 110% of original, which is nice), I tucked a couple of iphone screen cloths in there instead.

I managed to lift the smaller cells away from the case just with the ifixit card & patient force. I used a few drops of goo-gone under the larger cells & to clean up the residual glue. I could definitely do this a lot quicker next time.

thanks all at ifixit!

duncan rmi - 返信

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