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はじめに

壊れた基板を交換するにはこのガイドをご利用ください。

ヒートシンクを再装着する前に 放熱グリスの塗布方法を参照してください。

    • 上部ケースと底ケースを留めている次の10本のネジを外します。

    • 2.3 mm P5ペンタローブネジ−2本

    • 3.0 mm P5ペンタローブネジー8本

    • この修理では、各ネジの装着位置をメモ書きして管理してください。再組み立ての際は、デバイスにダメージを与えないよう、正しい場所に装着してください。

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 返信

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 返信

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 返信

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 返信

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 返信

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 返信

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 返信

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 返信

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 返信

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw - 返信

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James - 返信

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona - 返信

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade - 返信

  1. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 2、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースと底ケースの間に指を差し込みます。

    • ゆっくりと底ケースを上部ケースから離していきます。

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 返信

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 返信

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - 返信

  2. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 3、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 3、 2の画像 2
    • 底ケースは上部ケースと2つのプラスチック製クリップで中央付近に接続されています。

    • 再組み立ての際は、丁寧に底ケースの中央を2つのプラスチック製クリップに接続するように押し込んでください。

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 返信

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 返信

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet - 返信

  3. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換, バッテリーコネクター: 手順 4、 1の画像 1
    • 必要に応じてバッテリーの接続ボードに留められているプラスチック製カバーを外してください。

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 返信

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 返信

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis - 返信

  4. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 5、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 5、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • コネクターのみ持ち上げるよう確認しながら作業を進めてください。ソケットには接触しないでください。ロジックボードに永久的なダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 返信

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 返信

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 返信

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 返信

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - 返信

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes - 返信

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers - 返信

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc - 返信

  5. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 6、 1の画像 1
    • 修理作業中、アクシデントによりソケットがバッテリーコネクターに接続しないよう、折り曲げて邪魔にならない位置に移動させてください。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 返信

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 返信

  6. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換, ヒートシンク: 手順 7、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換, ヒートシンク: 手順 7、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換, ヒートシンク: 手順 7、 3の画像 3
    • ヒートシンクの端からゴム製のファンバンパーを丁寧に取り出します。

    • ファンバンパーはヒートシンクの周辺に巻かれており、ファンダクトの溝に留められています。再組み立ての際は、タブがファンダクトの溝にきちんと装着されているか確認してください。

    have lost the rubber fann bumper, what part do you have to buy to get this rubber? thank you

    Walid Shraim - 返信

    I changed out the noisy fan around 4-5 months ago. And lately it was back and I was super irritated about the poor quality of the replacement fan. Opening up the case and blowing on the ventilator some compressed air there was no noise whatsoever. I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover/bumper which could vibrate in the air flow channel. So verify that you insert rubber cover clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - 返信

    Use a flashlight and magnifying glass to see how the bottom of the bumper that wraps around the heatsink sits into the fan duct before you remove it. If it is not seated properly it can make noise. You’re welcome.

    Ron LaPedis - 返信

  7. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 8、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 8、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、4つのフォーム製ステッカーをヒートシンクのネジから剥がします。

    Ok, might be a dumb question, but where can I get the foam stickers, and are they absolutely necessary after reassembling the heat sink?

    akdarstudios - 返信

    I re-used the ones that I pulled off, and my guess is that they aren’t really necessary since they seem to just fit between the Torx screws and the bottom cover. I really doubt they are part of the heat removal system but are there to prevent vibration.

    Ron LaPedis - 返信

  8. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 9、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボードに留められたヒートシンクから次のネジを外します。

    • 2.7 mm T5ネジ(シルバー)ー1本

    • T5ネジ(黒)ー4本

    Please be very very careful when reassembling. The four black screws seem to be poor quality and the top snapped off two of them when trying to tighten them. Does anyone know the size of these or compatibility from other models as finding a replacement for them is proving to be almost impossible without shipping them in for a ridiculous price…

    Sophia Grace - 返信

    The single screw on the left hand side on the image above, what type of screw is it? The one on my Macbook is a phillips head one. And for some reason, I couldn’t put it back. Any advise?

    Mahmood Chowdhury - 返信

    These should all be T5 Torx screws. There could be variations in the construction of the laptop compared to this guide, but I’d check out our ID Your MacBook tool to be sure you’re following the correct guide! If you are following the correct guide, be sure all the elements under the screw are properly seated, if they’re not well aligned the screw may not get a good anchor. Best of luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I can confirm that on my 2015 13” Macbook Pro, the single screw on the left hand side is a #000 phillips screw.

    Stephen Martin - 返信

    Mine is also a philips head

    Justin Parry - 返信

    They are Torx T5 on my MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Ron LaPedis - 返信

    I’m doing 2 early 2015 13” macbook pro’s right now simultaneously and both have same size torx for all 5 screws. Upgrading logic board in one and putting its old logic board in dead mac.

    BTW, I’m a double EE, been doing this a long time and wanted to mention that i use only high quality German made tools for my torx and other drivers. I have found repeatedly, that the cheap tools that are given away in kits, wear out fast, sometimes after one use and lead to issues with fasteners. My drivers are made by WIHA. They are expensive but well worth it if you plan on doing this more than once or even once!

    Ross Elkins - 返信

    yes, Phillips head screw on 13-inch early 2015 retina for my unit 2.7 ghz, 8gb ram

    robert - 返信

    For those of you that do have the Phillips head for the single screw on the left-hand side, do you have a driver suggestion that worked well for you, without stripping the head? I have tried the 000 bit and one of the 000 drivers from ifixit but those are beginning to strip the head. I need a driver that has deep drive but I’m unsure as to which brand I should buy. I’ll spend the money for the right driver. Thanks!

    Ray Grogan - 返信

    You can't go wrong with WIHA.

    maccentric -

    Dumb question - if my replacement logic board comes with a new heat sink attached, can I ignore these steps (other than removing the red-circled screw)? Hoping so since this part seems like a PITA.

    Steve Kroodsma - 返信

    I too have a Phillips head for that one screw (early 2015 13” retina MBP, technically an Apple refurb). The bit I used is labelled J000 from my precision toolkit. Be careful since it so small, but i had no issues with tearing up the screw head.

    Edward Wilcox - 返信

  9. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 10、 2の画像 2
    • ラップトップからヒートシンクを取り出します。

    • コンピューターを再組み立てする際は、放熱グリスを付着する必要があるため、この手順に従ってください。

    the use of a CLEAN (with isopropyl alcohol) credit card was very helpful when reapplying the thermal paste, be sure to have this “tool” on hand when reassembling.

    Colleen V - 返信

    We need a picture of reinstallation of the 2.7mm T5 screw on the left side of the thermal bar on the head sink. That screw goes into the stud that was previously installed. It is the only place in the computer that uses a combination post. In my machine, that screw was not silver. I don't know if that was standard or not.

    James Mitchell - 返信

  10. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換, ファン: 手順 11、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換, ファン: 手順 11、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから接続を外すため、iSightカメラケーブルコネクターを外側へ押し出します。

    I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

    Tony M - 返信

    Very helpful tip from Tony.

    Thomas Sturgill - 返信

    I used two tools simultaneously. A spudger and a pic like spudger to walk it out.

    lucas - 返信

    Man muss den Stecker aus der Steckverbindung herausschieben, und nicht darauf drücken . In der englischsprachigen Anleitung steht auch push und nicht etwa press…

    Holger - 返信

    There are 2 black tabs either side - force them towards the back of the back of computer. It seemed to pop out super easily just doing it gently.

    Josh - 返信

    This step is very difficult. With care it could be omitted. After detach the cable from the glue on the back cover of fan, there is enough clearance to take the fan assembly out with a little pivoting, just be careful and don’t put too much stress on the table where it make a 90 downward turn to the connector. Reinstalling is just reverse and doable as well.

    Xiaokun Xu - 返信

    After readying all, trying Josh’s tip with no joy, I found that two nice sized fingernails made this easy x 2! Just push on each little indent simultaneously.

    Ross Elkins - 返信

    Thanks Ross! This was my 2nd time every opening a laptop and using two finger nails to push on the little indents worked amazing!

    Carolyn Wang - 返信

    I pulled the cable directly and it got off easily.

    When assembling it,just used two fingernail on two sides of the plug and pushing it back。

    After all these,checked iSight working well。

    Junjie2021 - 返信

  11. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 12、 2の画像 2
    • iSightカメラのケーブルを内蔵ファンから取り出して、作業の邪魔にならないように折り曲げます。

  12. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 13、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 13、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 13、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクター上のタブを上向きに折り曲げます。

    • ファンケーブルをソケットからまっすぐ引き上げて外します。

    my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

    maccentric - 返信

    I found it a bit difficult to know exactly when the new one is back in position.

    steffen - 返信

    Take a close look at the spacing in the 3 photos. You essentially just flip the tab 90 degrees to stay vertical, then you pull the cable carefully out. When putting the new one in, no need to press hard. Just a little bit so you have that 2-3 mm spacing and then flip the tab back down.

    Daniel - 返信

  13. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 14、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースに留められたファンから次のネジを外します。

    • 5.0 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.6 mm T5トルクスネジー2本

    When reinstalling, do the screw closest to the front of the computer first.

    Steve Wechsler - 返信

  14. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 15、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 15、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 15、 3の画像 3
    • ディスプレイの丁番に近いファンの先端を持ち上げて、上部ケースからファンを外します。

    Um, this guide should include steps for applying thermal paste, including instructions to clean the mating surfaces, and pictures showing how much thermal paste to use.

    TheIronGiant - 返信

    Hi @theirongiant, there are generic thermal paste application instructions linked in the introduction “Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.”

    Sam Goldheart -

    Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.

    Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.

    If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.

    toodarkpark - 返信

    Thanks to toodarkpark, it’s the priority to connect the cable of Fan before place it on position completely.

    If reverse the step, it will become ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE to insert the cable.

    Junjie2021 - 返信

  15. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換, ロジックボードアセンブリ: 手順 16、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換, ロジックボードアセンブリ: 手順 16、 2の画像 2
    • ロジックボードに留められた出入力ボードケーブルブラケットから2.1 mm のT5トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • 出入力ボードケーブルブラケットを取り出します。

  16. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 17、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 17、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って出入力ボードのコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

    • 出入力ボードケーブルにのみ接触してください。ロジックボードにダメージを与えてしまうリスクがあるため、ソケットには当たらないようにしてください。

  17. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 18、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 18、 2の画像 2
    • 出入力ボードケーブルのロジックボード先端をまっすぐ持ち上げて、作業の邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。

    • ケーブルにダメージが入らないようにするには、ケーブルの出入力ボード先端のベンドのみ折り曲げてください。

  18. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 19、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 19、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側のスピーカーコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

  19. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 20、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 20、 2の画像 2
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、出入力ボードコネクターのどちらか一方の先端を押して、ロジックボードのソケットから外します。

  20. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 21、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの先端を使ってキーボードバックライトケーブルの接続を外して、ロジックボードから作業の邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。

  21. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 22、 3の画像 3
    • 黒色のプラスチック製のタブを掴んで、ディスプレイケーブルコネクターを裏返し、ロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ引っ張ります。

    In my 2015 retina MacBook Pro 13”: I saw as shown the piece of black plastic tape. One peels this off as shown, using the same tweezers shown, or something else. The tweezers shown work well to lift the stainless steel clip, again as shown. But I add here that the points of the ribbon cable to grab and pull horizontally back are not optimal, as shown. You do not have to grab the ribbon. There are two points where the wire clip attaches to the connector that work well as places to grab with the tweezers shown. Hope this is clear

    Thomas Sturgill - 返信

  22. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 23、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 23、 2の画像 2
    • ロジックボード上のソケットから丁寧にDC-In(デジタル入力)ボードのコネクターをまっすぐ引っ張ります。

  23. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 24、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの平面側の先端をコネクター付近の左側スピーカーケーブルの下に差し込み、ソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げて邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。

    I wasn’t careful enough or something, the socket came straight off, ouch. I don’t even see how it was connected originally. Not soldered or anything, will try to solder myself but it looks very thin. Be careful!

    Ray Dai - 返信

  24. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 25、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 25、 2の画像 2
    • 必要であれば、マイクケーブルのZIFコネクターを覆っているテープを剥がします。

  25. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 26、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 26、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 26、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、マイクケーブル上のZIFコネクターの固定タブを裏返します。

    • ロジックボード上のソケットからマイクケーブルを引き出します。

    This tiny connector was difficult for me, and I hope I have not damaged it. Same design as some connectors already removed. A tiny, plastic front latch is lifted up, causing release. You grab the ribbon cable and pull it back horizontally, and to my surprise, this is end is just one tiny flat metal end, no multiple wire connectors that mate on the male end of the ribbon cable.

    Thomas Sturgill - 返信

  26. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 27、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 27、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 27、 3の画像 3
    • 必要であれば、キーボードケーブルコネクターを覆っているテープを剥がしてください。

    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ZIFコネクター上の固定タブを裏返します。

    Also very difficult, because there is so little room to wriggle the ribbon cable, horizontally and backward. The photos do not offer a solution. The points I used are white (at least not black) points on the both, outer edges, and I was able to push there with the tip of the spudger.

    Thomas Sturgill - 返信

  27. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 28、 2の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 28、 2の画像 2
    • ロジックボード上のZIFソケットからキーボードケーブルをまっすぐ持ち上げます。

  28. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 29、 3の画像 3
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、トラックパッドコネクタをソケットからまっすぐ上に持ち上げます。

    • ロジックボード上で作業しやすいように、ケーブルをバッテリーセル側まで折り曲げます。

  29. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 30、 1の画像 1
    • 上部ケースにロジックボードを固定している3.5 mm T5トルクスネジを5本外します。

    Il y en a une plus longue que les autres.

    Easy Repair - 返信

  30. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 31、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 31、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 31、 3の画像 3
    • ロジックボードのプロセッサー側先端をわずかに持ち上げて、ファン側に向けて引っ張り、上部ケースの端からポートを解放します。

    • ロジックボードを外します。

    It won't come off; help!

    Zelma Garza - 返信

    It seems to be stuck on the thunderbolt ports for me won’t come out

    Brendan O'Rourk - 返信

    i found that it was difficult to get the processor back inside correctly during reassembly. it might take a few tries, as there are small “bracket” type pieces on the underside of the i/o ports that may bend out of shape. use caution, be exceedingly gentle and patient, but don’t give up!

    Colleen V - 返信

  31. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換, ロジックボード: 手順 32、 1の画像 1
    • ロジックボードに留められたSSDから、2.9 mm T5のトルクスネジを1本外します。

    It looks like this picture is not a 820-4924-A motherboard (A1502 2015 13in. MBPr). It must come from a previous version of Macbook pros. Don’t panic if the RAM chips on the top right corner do not look exactly the same on your board and on this picture.

    Mipam - 返信

    The screw on my disk is ruined, i cant remove it, any suggestions?

    dieyoung79 - 返信

  32. MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 1 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 2 MacBook Pro 13インチ Retina Display Early 2015 ロジックボードの交換: 手順 33、 3の画像 3
    • SSDの端を少し持ち上げて、ロジックボード上のソケットからまっすぐ持ち上げます。

終わりに

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

114 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

メンバー登録日: 2009年10月17日

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19 件のコメント

Any idea where the power on pads are ?

Sebastien

Sébastien - 返信

I did not need to remove the heat sink. You can simply remove part of the fan assembly in about 1 minute and the heat sink and its associated arm with fins comes right out. Removing the heat sink introduces unnecessary complications that could destroy your logic board should you perform an incorrect repair on the thermal paste.

vwbus1979 - 返信

Any instructions and images demonstrating this?

Richard -

Only part i am missing is how to give the new board it's serial number

Pascal Hoffmann - 返信

me too,me too,

RadioDisney -

You can order a new bottom plate with the new serial nummer custom printed. Several suppliers in China provide that service.

Robert72 -

any guides for putting it back together? taking it apart without damaging the board is one thing. but putting it back is more than just doing the steps in reverse.

Jaziel Tan - 返信

Can explain what the pad is that between battery and Edge. Thanks

孟令涛 - 返信

Where can I buy the cpu foam stickers ?

Regards

Marco Luigi Carlo - 返信

Where I can buy logic board for Macbook Pro Retina 13” Early 2015 Model

Chandrashekhar - 返信

Chandrashekhar: you can buy the logic board from Amazon or Ebay you just have to make sure you can trust the seller and the product.

-Denver

Denver Robison - 返信

Solid, detailed instruction guide. I bought a logic board that came with a new heat sink, which made installation even easier. If you did the same, you can skip step 8, on step 9 you only have to remove the 2.7 mm screw, and skip step 10. You won’t be able to physically remove the fan (step 15), until after you unscrew the logic board (step 30). For reassembly, when you first replace the new logic board, make sure that all of the connectors and cables are clear of being trapped under the logic board before screwing it in, particularly the keyboard and microphone cable. Best way to do this is skim through the instructions again and check that each connector/cable is visible and then follow reassembly steps.

danielgludman - 返信

I love this clear procedure, thanks for Andrew and the other contributors for providing it! Never thought I’d be able to replace the i5 logic board in my MacBook with a new i7 one, but just did it. I got the new one with the heat sink attached, but decided to remove it and follow the procedure as described, all steps. I put a little Arctic MX-4 compound, only on the CPU (not the GPU) and the i7 works flawlessly. I already replaced the paste on another i5 that had overheating problems before (also thanks to iFixit) so I knew well how to do that.

Robert72 - 返信

I just notice that the i7 is substantially faster than the i5 in Geekbench 5’s CPU benchmark, but Geekbench 5’s Compute benchmark (which only tests the GPU) actually comes with a lower score. I found out the reason - the i7 CPU becomes much hotter than the i5, and the i7’s heat negatively affects the Compute benchmark score. When I force the Fans to full blow using Mac Fan Control, the Compute benchmark of the i7 actually is higher than on the i5. Anyone see these same problems, with the i7 getting hotter than the i5?

Robert72 - 返信

Superb guide. Just saved another laptop from landfill

Bill Ambrose - 返信

How do I remove the bracket that’s to the right of the usb/hdmi port by the fan? Rather, can someone tell me how to change out those ports?

Renole Ev - 返信

Good evening, I have a question.

I have to change the motherboard of my macbook pro "Early-2015 2.7GHz i5 16GB".

Is it possible to replace it with a higher level? By this motherboard "Early-2015 3.1GHz i7 16GB"

Thanks in advance for your answer.

Flo_Red55 - 返信

can someone provide detailed next steps after replacing the logic board and putting all back? what resets and how to get the mac running? thanks.

Hendrich Chiong - 返信

Excellent guide - if in doubt about the direction you need to pull or flip then look at all the photos and re-read the text.

Mike Ashwell - 返信

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