はじめに
このガイドを参照して、MacBook Air 13インチ Early 2017 ディスプレイアセンブリの交換を行います。
必要な工具と部品
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この手順で使用する道具：P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air$5.99
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P5ペンタローブドライバーを使って、下部ケースをはずしてください。ネジは次の長さに分かれます。
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9mm ネジー 2本
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2.6mm ネジー 8本
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ディスプレイと下部ケースの間に指を入れ、上に引っ張って下部ケースを本体から外します。
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下部ケースを取り外して脇に置きます。
There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.
To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.
nijafe -
So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?
I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.
Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.
Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.
Lance Berc - 返信
Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.
The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.
The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".
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バッテリーコネクターに取り付けられた透明なプラスチック製のプルタブを掴み、Airの前端に向かって引っ張り、バッテリーをロジックボードから外します。
how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.
I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.
When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!
After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.
The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)
It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.
There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.
Gyandev -
What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?
Yep, exactly the issue that I have
Unscrew the battery first, then let the cable flex out a little. Use a spudger or small pick to push the connector out from the board.
Nathan -
Where can i buy the battery connector?
Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/O ボード上のソケットからI/O ボードケーブルのコネクタを跳ね上げます。
When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.
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ファン上部に固定された接着剤からゆっくりと丁寧にI/O ボードケーブルを解放します。
the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.
Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.
I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…
I watched the video twice and went really slowly through steps and it works!!! It was a little scary but we got through it! Thanks so much!!
20.00000.000$
Dewi Oasis - 返信
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I / Oボードのケーブルをロジックボードの接続部付近に向けてゆっくりと跳ね上げます。コネクタの両側から上向きに押し上げて、ソケットから外します。
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I/O ボードケーブルを取り出します。
pour le remontage
de mon coté tout c’est bien passé, il faut juste bien vérifier la nappe de la carte E/S soit à l’endroit, car sinon l’ordinateur refuse de démarrer ( se référer à la photo du coup )
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ファンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを注意深く跳ね上げます。
The end of that cord slips into the channel whose lid you just flipped up. Don’t forget to re-insert that when reseating the fan and before flipping that retaining flap closed, it’s easy to miss and should have been part of these instructions, ifixit!
Thank you so much! Without your comment, I wouldn’t of realized that the ribbon cable is supposed to go into the socket (I know, dumb mistake now that I think about it). You also made me go back and correctly insert the microphone cable. Cheers!
After my repair, my fan is super loud now! Any tips?
I didn’t find any need to unplug the fan. All I did was remove the three screws which hold the fan to the case and gently fold the fan out of the way. All you are trying to do is gain enough room to route the camera cable into the little cut-out in the I/O board so it can go below the board along the edge of the fan.
I agree, BobY. I too didn't disconnect the fan cable. Those retaining flaps are so tiny it's hard even to see whether or not they are flipped up, so I was happy not to have to deal with it. That meant, however, that I had to be extra careful not to stress the fan cable when removing the fan (or more precisely, just lifting it out of the way rather than removing it completely), but I seem to have succeeded.
Gyandev -
I wish I'd read these comments before unplugging that cable. I can't figure out how to reseat the cable so I can close the retaining flap. It would help if I could see it better, or had a better idea of how it was connected before I unplugged it.
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ファン上部についているゴム製ガスケットの接着剤を剥がします。
When putting the computer together, pay attention to the placement of the gasket. It has a pin on the left side the enters the main board from the bottom. The right side straddles the tip of the heat pipe and there is a photo later on with close-up.
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上部ケースにファンを固定している次のネジを外します。
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5.2 mm T5トルクスネジー1本
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3.3 mm T5トルクスネジー1本
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4.4 mm T5トルクスネジ(ショートヘッド)ー1本
I was unable to remove the 4.4 mm screw with the T5. I needed to use the T4 to get a grip so I didn’t strip the head.
The 3.3mm Torx is actually a 4.4mm
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I/O ボードの側面からファンを持ち上げて、上部ケースからファン全体を取り出します。
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ファンを取り出すには、ファン用リボンケーブルの接続を外さなければなりません。ケーブルを他のケーブルに引っかけないようにご注意ください。
I didn’t find any need to remove the fan. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board by just tilting the edge of the fan nearest the I/O board up and out of the way (pretty much what is being shown in the picture above).
I agree. I had to put something under the tilted (not removed) fan in order to have room to work, but it went okay.
Gyandev -
I removed it but it was a little tricky getting the ribbon cable back in. I was afraid it would break but it finally seated after a little wiggling.
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I/Oボードのパワーケーブルをロジックボード上のソケットから引き抜いて、接続を外します。
The connector has a latch (at least mine does) that prevents it from simply sliding out. To release it, I inserted a 5/64 flathead screwdriver to lift the edge of the socket. Then the jack and cable easily slides out.
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボード上のソケットから左側スピーカーケーブルコネクタを持ち上げます。
when i did this the whole socket came off the board and i had to get a replacement i/o board. Be warned, do this very carefully and avoid my mistake
If you are here to replace the logic board, you can skip steps 12-16, they’re unnecessary to replace the logic board.
maccentric - 返信
How do you put this back?? I’m struggling to figure out how to get the connector back into the socket of the new I/O board
You just line it up and push it down into the socket. Straight down, not sideways.
For Display disassembly you can skip this step.
I replaced a broken display of a MB Air with the functional of another MB Air. I removed the I/O board while disassembling the first Display, then I saw the comments so I tried it out while disassembling the second display. Worked out totally fine and saved me some time.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、マイクリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを注意深く跳ね上げます。
There was black tape covering this socket. It was attached to the ribbon tape. I needed to pull up the tape covering the socket to expose the retaining clip.
Thanks Brant!
The note about the black tape should be in RED in the main text above. I broke off the connector thinking the tape was part of the cable assembly. Always read the comments. Always. : )
Ripped the connector off the picture was too small and I couldn’t see what part to lift.
If you click on the picture, you'll get a nice detailed blown-up view.
Steps 13 and 14 are unnecessary
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I/Oボードを上部ケースに固定している4.1mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。
Steps 14-15 & 28-29 seem unnecessary. I managed to replace the logic board without removing the I/O board or right speaker, although that means the logic board cannot be removed easily - the right rear corner is hindered by part of the chassis so that the edge of the logic board facing the battery should be lifted gently first and then the board be slid away from that obstructing part.
Exact, the step 14 is unnecessary
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I/Oボード上の凹みからカメラケーブルを慎重に引き戻して、スパッジャーの先端でケーブルを邪魔にならない位置に押さえます。
This is really tricky. I couldn't de-route the cable as long as the I/O board was still in place. Had to lift the board mostly out of place in order to get enough slack in the cable to de-route it. Otherwise, I was going to have to force the de-routing, which seemed like a really bad idea.
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I/Oボードをロジックボードから持ち上げて、上部ケースから引き抜いて取り出します。
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I/Oボードを取り出すと、マイク用リボンケーブルの接続を外さなければなりません。ケーブルを引っ掛けないようご注意ください。
Nor for the logic board removal
maccentric - 返信
The back end of the microphone riibbon cable may be stuck down with a bit of glue under the flap. You can gently loosen it with a flat spudger.
how do I reattach the riibbon cable now that the adhesive has been removed?
I wonder if you weren't replacing the I/O board, BobY, but rather were doing some other repair. I say this because the microphone ribbon cable has to be disconnected from the I/O board in order to replace the I/O board, which is the repair that I was working on. And that disconnect/reconnect was definitely the fussiest part of this entire repair. Such tiny components to handle! In the end, I had to resort to using a tweezers, and even then I wasn't sure that everything was fully seated and secure.
Gyandev -
I wasn't replacing the I/O Board, I was replacing the entire Display Assembly--I got to this step within the instructions for replacing the Display Assembly. Maybe iFixit uses the same comments if they link to this same step from a different set of repair instructions? My comment was meant to convey you definitely don't need to remove the I/O Board to replace the Display Assembly.
BobY -
I got to this point (Step 16) within the instructions for replacing the Display Assembly, which is where I'm entering this comment. My comment was meant to convey it isn't necessary to remove the I/O Board to replace the Display Assembly, but you certainly would need to remove the I/O Board to replace the I/O Board.
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、AirPort/Bluetoothカード上のソケットから各アンテナコネクタを持ち上げます。
Wow! This was so easy to unplug the antenna cables but it took me forever to get them plugged back in. I got it but it took me about 40 mins of positioning and pushing down with the bludger.
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ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタを、ソケットに対してまっすぐ引き抜きます。
There is a 3d barcode on the flap. You know you have the cable oriented correctly when the barcode is facing down and the clip is closed.
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上部ケースとディスプレイ用左右のヒンジを固定している内側4本の、5.6mm T8トルクスネジを外します。
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上部ケースに刻まれた溝からアンテナケーブルを慎重に巻き戻して外します。
This step neglects to mention that if you don’t de-route it even further than shown in the photo AND undo the the tiny screw below the left hinge, then this wire will break later on
I agree with mckenziemardelli and ALOS that the combined antenna cables are “clamped” and retained by two of the right hinge screws.
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This is the part that will have you cursing whomever designed this.
maccentric - 返信
It’s not too bad once you know the trick: since there are two antennas (WiFi and Bluetooth) running together side-by-side within the cable sleeve, the profile of the cable is not round, but oblong. If you try to push the oblong face of the antenna cable into the slots cast into the metal case you will drive yourself crazy—the cable won’t go in without a lot of effort and will likely pop out when you try to insert the cable into the next slot.
If you orient the cable such that the narrow face is pointing up and down, the cable will pretty much go right in using a spudger.
Bonjour,
de mon coté tout c’est bien passé, il faut juste bien vérifier la nappe de la carte E/S soit à l’endroit, car sinon l’ordinateur refuse de démarrer ( se référer à la photo du coup )
Remove the screen as shown in the guide, lay the screen down face up and with the hinges edge furtherest away from you. Slide the black clutch cover across from right to left until it rests on the left hinge. You may have to work it back and forth a few times until it moves all the way to the left. They can get hard to move because of all the crap that falls down into the two fine channels the clutch cover rests and locks in. Once it is pushed right over to the left it can be carefully prized out from outside (back) edge. Then you can tighten the six screws that retain the hinges to the screen body.
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？まずはベーシックなトラブルシューティングを試してみるか、このモデルのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？まずはベーシックなトラブルシューティングを試してみるか、このモデルのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
35 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
6 件のコメント
Thank you so much! I fixed my Macbook Air display! I feel like a champion lol
My MacBook air screen needed to be replaced. There were lines vertical and horizontal. I decided to replace the screen. Got everything put back together from the directions up top. Everything worked except the screen stay black. I hooked the MacBook up to a second screen to make sure. I decided maybe it was a broken replacement so I put the old one back and its also a blank screen also. Before I took the MacBook apart the screen and apple logo both lit up and now I cant get the old screen to come on.
Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!
allison - 返信
Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.
bwgvanderveer - 返信
I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards
ola m - 返信
Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.
andrew - 返信
It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.
Larry Smith - 返信
tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.
Thank you
ilyabuhov - 返信
Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?
anne uhlir - 返信
im looking for a Logic Board for a
Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A
Any help is appreciated.
Jamie Comstock - 返信
P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)
William Skinner - 返信
I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly
eric -
Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!
Dennis Eaton - 返信
My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!
Pennny Beach - 返信
The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!
Nikolay Andreev - 返信
Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..
joemoog - 返信
Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.
Merci pour votre aide.
chicco33 - 返信
oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.
Dan -
The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.
Andre Clement - 返信
P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.
michaelquinnell - 返信
Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.
Thomas Lewis - 返信
To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as
Pentalobe 1.2(mm)
also
P4 = 0.8
P6 = 1.5
Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2
nijafe -
I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?
Sean Love - 返信
Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .
John Brennand - 返信
Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).
Was very easy.
New iFixit battery looks great so far:
Jonathan Cross - 返信
can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,
hawk_lpc -
Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2
Mario Verlent - 返信
Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.
Joel Sebastian - 返信
Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).
Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...
Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!
Donald Niamath - 返信
Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.
Amir Zaidi - 返信
Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !
Billy Wong - 返信
Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)
See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge
Fletcher Cole - 返信
… und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?
... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?
Blatt - 返信
Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD
DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER
instead press
OPTION+CMD+R +POWER
I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015
Albert - 返信
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.
Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.
Good luck. - Eric J.
ECJohansen - 返信
On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.
Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.
Rich Garella - 返信
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.
shrhh - 返信
Is it possible to change an upper case with a german keyboard for an english one?
Rogerio Pefi - 返信
if you are intending to change it to British layout you don't need to change the keyboard at all, just the keys, buy either a set of a1466 key caps ( I assume you have a 2017 MacBook Air?) or a cheap a1466 keyboard (can even be a broken one), remove the keys that are different and replace them with the other keycaps, and then set the macbook's language to British and you are set
Kai Mcpherson -