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Cuisinart Griddler GR-4N a five-in-one kitchen appliance to be used as a contact grill, panini press, full grill, full griddle or half griddle .

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Elements not heating up

Blowing a fuse caused this machine to stop working a few years ago. I’d like to repair it but too it apart to find there was no visible damage and a multi meter show current at the element’s connection points. Could I have damaged the AC cable, and if so how can I test this before cutting and soldering a new one on?

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Android 修理キット

交換用スクリーンやバッテリーの修理キット

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Android 修理キット

交換用スクリーンやバッテリーの修理キット

ショップを見る

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@subdj no damage to the AC cord if you “show current at the element’s connection points.“ Measure voltages going to the heating element after you measure the resistance of the element (unplugged of course) and check the thermistor/fuses in the circuitry. Since you have it taken apart, post some good pictures of everything with your question. That way we can see what you see. iFixitでの質問に画像を追加する方法

You would test the AC cord with an ohmmeter. One probe to one prong of the plague and test the end with the other prong. You should only show continuity on the cable end that directly relates to the prong of the plug. If you have continuity on all off them you have a shorted wire

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Thanks, I've added some photos to my original question.

What do you mean by "prong of the plague ", is that a typo? I have no electronics experience besides some basic wiring to PCB, so I'm not quite sure what you're asking me to check. When I looked at the inside, nothing to my eyes looks like they're damaged. It doesn't help that the previous teardowns are with a slightly different model. I'm not sure what are fuses and how to check them, but I'm guessing that they're on one of the knob PCB?

If I use my multimeter to touch each of these fuses on the boards to try and find one that doesn't pass a current, could that be the issue? If so then I could probably solder a new one on.

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@subdj "prong on the plug". You check that with an ohmmeter for resistance. You check the fuses for power for sure but let us know how you are doing that. It will help us to determine where you need more assistance. https://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Fuse-With...

Different element same idea https://housetechlab.com/how-to-test-a-h...

The boards with the knobs look like control boards and not necessarily power boards. Can you give us a better look at the part where the Red and Blue wire enter (second picture top part)

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I check with the beeping mode on the multimeter to see if a current is passing through. I'd check the pins on all the fuses and if possible the wires to see try and find the bad one.

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There should only be one maybe 2 fuses in there. Take some pictures of the components on the boards. Post some pictures of the part where the red and blue wire enter. That is actually the part that I think contains the power fuse etc,

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Please tell us what the amperage of this machine is and were any other appliances running on the same circuit in your kitchen when you turned it on. Also, did it blown the circuit immediately or did it take a little while?

Amperage of the machine would be marked on the botton of the appliance.

Some kitchen circuits only have a 15 AMP breaker and a TV, dishwasher and a fridge can blow it. Microwaves are big AMP matters also.

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Thanks, Mayer. To answer your questions, it blew probably due to a toaster or AC running at the same time, hence I forgot to turn one of them off. The AC runs in the dining room nearby and is on the same circuit.

This is what's on the bottom label: 120v 60Hz 1500w

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Jonathan will be eternally grateful.
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