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xbox one s controller overheating battery

Hello. I got my xbox one for 1 week. When I installed the batteries in the controller and started to set up the console I found that the battery door was getting warm to the touch. I immediately opened the door and took put the batteries which were so hot by this time I couldn’t hold them, after the light on the controller would blink twice and then shut off. I's a brand new xbox one s controller. What can I do? I'm from romania

Update (02/14/2017)

I opened the controller and i found this problem.

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idk my controller is been broken

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I don't know how batteries work over there in Romania but you might have used unsuitable batteries. Sometimes there's batteries that will still fit but may have more power, thus, causing an overvoltage of some sort and overheating. If you used good, suitable batteries, then it could just be a defective unit. I would look and see if other people are reporting the same problem.

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I used Energizer batteries and within minutes of playing both the batteries and controller overheat

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My controller is doing the same thing and it smells like something burning when I plugged a USB in (of course I immediately took it out). My Xbox one s controller is not even 2 months old!

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Same thing just happened to mine I only had mine for 6 months ; (

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same exact thing happened to mine, the controller is in perfect condition other than that aspect, trying to find a fix.

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I just had the same problem put with a power charger I have had mine for about 6 months and it stared overheating so I was like !&&* no I'm putting that right in the fridge if it works for xbox 360 controllers who says it doesn't work on a xbox one controller do it for about an hour or two

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Xbox one only 6 mo old hardly used fried a hole in both wireless batteries!! I want them replaced or rhw controllers.

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The same thing has happened to me, so I searched up answers on Google, but couldn't find any. In my research, I saw your post but skipped it because it had no answer. Eventually, I got bored with my research and decided to solve my own problem. As I put the batteries in my controller, I saw a spark, and I thought, "They must be burning the little bit of dirt and dust on each other! That's what is making the heat, the burning smell, and the sparks!" So I wrapped one of the batteries in the finger of a rubber glove, since rubber stops electricity, and left the ends open. So the electrical circuit will still flow, but the batteries won't affect one another. After one battery was wrapped in rubber, I put them both in, and there were no sparks, no smells, no heat, and the controller worked like it was supposed to. Although you posted this question awhile ago, I hope that you still may have this problem, see this post, and solve your problem.

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I know this is an older post but I thought I would add to it for anyone that comes across this issue in the future. I’ve seen this problem in another S controller where that component (labelled D23) on the power board will fry and the controller will no longer turn on. I’m not a technician by any means but the controller was no longer under warranty and I was curious, so I removed the burned part from the board and soldered on an intact one that I desoldered from another busted controller. After putting the controller back together with fresh batteries, it powered on again! However, it immediately started to overheat in that region and I turned it off to avoid frying the replaced D23 component. The question remains: are the D23 components defective? Or, is there something else in the circuit that is causing D23 to overheat? If anyone who is experienced with electronics has any suggestions, I certainly welcome them.

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I have exactly the same problem with my xbox one s controller. The controller won't turn on but for seconds then shut down. It gets hot whenever I try to force turn it on.

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hey i don’t know if this is the same problem but i’ve looked solutions online and found nobody has the same problem, so first my controller won’t sync to the xbox wirelessly unless it’s a few inches away from the xbox, so i decided i would use a micro usb cable and when i plugged it in it would work for a few minutes, turn off and turn back on on it’s own and work for what a shorter amount of time and turn off and on again and work for a shorter time and it would do this until it turned on and immediately turn off. but then one day it worked fine other than the the area around the left joystick would heat up and it was only 2 feetlong. anyways i wanted a longer cable so i bought one and the problem of it turning off and on again on it’s own returned and now it’s doing the same for all my cables so it’s definitely the controller. sorry for hyjacking this forum but my controller was heating up so i thought that might be the issue

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So I have come across a controller with this exact issue and after doing a Google search I have only found others with the same issue and no solution so I did a little bit of probing and analysis on a good board and compared the readings with the ones I procured with the subject in question and gained some interesting insight. So d23 is not to blame here. Poor little d23 just looks guilty and is easily blamed when you see the damage it caused. Metaphorically speaking the pile of crap on the living room floor (the burn on the board for all those who are too serious). That poor little diode was just seeing way too much current and although it tried… it died. But why? So I began to investigate the ones closest to the dearly departed one by one (starting with the easiest components of course) when at last the part I was hoping not to look into had come up. I didn't want it to be u1, I really didnt. Not only would it be a pain in the ass to replace being so close to so many other components but if you over heat you begin dropping things from the other side and with my level of steady hand combined with my level of bad luck I thought disaster would come to pass if it truly was u1. So I took a break and had a sandwich.

Back to u1. I did what anyone with a logical thought process and troubleshooting abilities would do and I searched for a part labeled 1AEBH finding nothing really fast like, which could only be blamed on my poor eye site, which I found out upon taking a second look with my magnifying glass (which is ironically plastic) and editing my search parameters with more correct and up to date telemetry. Upon correcting my error……….. I came to find that AEBH is a very popular thing to label your teeny tiny components before shipping them out by the billions. The toss up was between a frequency something or another, a car thingie and a linear voltage regulator. Although I was tempted to assume it was the car something or another my better judgement was leaning more towards the linear voltage regulator being thay it has all the classic signs of such a part between the feedback circuit, the voltage divider, the stabilizing and decoupling capacitors as well as the smoothing capacitors on what looked like the output. If it was the car something or another l would be damning myself as I was putting all of my eggs in the linear regulator part basket.

With that in mind I had a little looksie at the datasheet for the part in question and Immediately I realized that this had to be the one. I had properly identified the suspect! With no time to spare as I wildly swiped left to right and up and down as well as a pinch or two followed by the opposite of a pinch (zoom in and out, if you know what the opposite of a pinch is I would love your input, thank you) and from that I determined that this part is definitely the one that killed poor innocent hard working d2. The fault was within the linear voltage regulator (u1) causing it to draw far too much current which overheats batteries, burns components and ultimately causes a failing controller. I tested resistance between pins as well as voltage when plugged I'm as well as tested just how much current the thing drew and it was surprisingly high. The voltage drop when pressing the power button to turn the thing on (the power button) alone was bad enough to make me question why I bought an xbox in the first place (I wanted ps4 but settled due to my brother who is a ps4 hater). The circuit was supposed to be running closer to 5v and was only seeing about 1v which should have caused the failsafe in U1 to trigger (2v dropout voltage) but being shorted to ground on a few pins would explain why it completely disregarded the datasheet and kept on sinking sweet sweet current. As much fun as I'm having with this It looks like I've gotta cut it short. Between the actual fixing of this controller and then the typing of my super interesting story here it's very late for a post on a random blog that's very old and my guess is that it won't be seen by anyone and that everyone who posted probably already jusy bought a new controller anyway therefore my epic conclusion is as follows…

For those of you who don't love all the extras of a fun story that I stopped before finishing after noticing that its now 2am and I still haven't played destiny…wait there I go again… sorry I can't help it I guess.

TMDRT-

Problem: xbox 1 controller not overheating and not working.

Reason: faulty linear voltage regulator (U1)

Fix: replace U1 or in my case replace the entire board from one out of the graveyard of xbox 1 controllers I have collected in a short period of time. (I'm dropping hints that xbox 1 controllers are so $@$*!& that I have a vast collection of dead ones which i have accumulated in a short period of time because I have yet to have a %#*@ controller last more than 2 months so far… so thanks for that Microsoft and I hope that everything in your future is as well crafted and reliable as your console controllers. Rant over) .

Well there it is folks. I hope you enjoyed this way too long post and I hope it is helpful to everyone who reads it.

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nicoara wiliam さん、ありがとうございました!
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