Andrew S

Edit: You can use the battery from an iPhone 6 Plus in an iPhone 6s Plus, just keep in mind that the iPhone 6 Plus battery is thicker, which may affect the seal you get batween the display and the casing. Source

I cannot find the front glass, so I would recommend replacing the whole assembly.

I would use the MacBook until the battery is dead, and then open it up and replace the battery. It is very likely that the battery is swollen, and if it is, it shouldn't be used. Using the battery until it's dead discharges it so that it's safer to remove.

I believe any 2.5" Hard Drive or SSD should work. The SSD I would recommend is the WD Blue SSD, but you could get this one for a little less(slower speed [450 vs 530 MB/s and less warranty period[3 years vs 5 years]) . If the cable connecting to the current hard drive uses the 4 pin connector, we can explore other options.

This is normal behavior and is another way for Apple to discourage people from repairing their own devices. A warning is displayed in the introduction of the iFixit guide for display replacement on this phone. If your phone is acting normally, you can safely ignore this warning. Keep in mind that Apple continues to make moves like this that hurt the repairability of their products. Replacing the screen, battery, home button (if applicable), and/or front sensor assembly (on iPhones with Face ID) will trigger a message or cause some functions not to work on many iPhones and other Apple devices. Some tools, like the JC V1S, will restore the true tone functions but may not remove the "display may not be genuine" message. Serialization of parts is one of the things trying to be fixed by "Right to Repair" laws. You can learn more about Right to Repair under the Advocacy section on the footer of the iFixit website.

The following process will let me see your computer's specifications: Win+R>type msinfo32>Select "OK" I need the following (information I need is bolded, the other stuff is the surrounding text in the dialogue box): (1) Processor speed, which you will find in the processor section(e.g. Intel Pentium M CPU @ 1.7GHz) (2) The amount of RAM in the machine, which you will find in the Installed Physical Memory(RAM) section(e.g. 1.0 GB) (3) The Hard Drive size, which you will find in Components>Storage>Drives, under the C: Drive entry (e.g. 64.05 GB) Please type all of the required information in a comment Also keep in mind that to activate your copy of Windows 10 (to be able to personalize the OS and remove watermarks), you would need to pay $135.

The LCD/Digitizer from the iPod Touch 6th Generation should work in this iPod. You can also use the guide from the 6th Generation iPod Touch to replace your screen.

Yes, using a 5th/6th generation iPod Touch screen should work. As you can see here, the iPod Touch 7th generation is pretty much the same as the 6th generation but with a different battery.

Try this: (1) Use the phone until the battery gets to 0% (2) Turn the phone on and wait for it to shut off (3) Keep turning the phone on until the phone battery is pretty much drained (4) Plug the phone into a charger (5) With the phone off, keep the phone on the charger until the phone had been on the charger for a few hours after reachy 100%> (6) Try the phone and see if the problem still arises.

For this, start by removing the upper case. This should allow you to see where the cards are stuck. If you can't get access to the cards, follow along with the optical drive laser replacement guide until you can get access to all of the cards and pull them out of the system. After all of the cards are pulled out of the system, check too see if the optical drive is functioning properly.

Replacement screens are now available from iFixit here.

Does the old switch have any writing on it?

Yep, mine lasted a little less than 2 years. The key to getting the two casing halves apart is to use a really small flathead screwdriver and put it in one of the holes in the casing, then start pushing downwards.