The rev limiter seems to be in the distributor rotor, that limits rpm by dumping the spark on the base instead to the sparkplugs. And it does this via a centrifugal weight that cuts/redirects the power to the base of the distributor if it revs to high. I say "seems to be" because I found some contradicting information if it was in the ECU or the distributor, most ppl seemed to point towards the spring in the distributor rotor however. I don't have any personal experience with this engine. But the problem can be many-fold. Just because it doesn't rev higher does not mean that it is the rev limiter. It could be something else, like a worn cam, to rich fuel mixture, worn valve springs, the list can be made long.
Did some light searching. Do a restart, not cold boot, and press the esc-key The Manual - ENG - pg74 states that it's the F2-key, but this forum thread on asus is stating the esc-key, which seems to have helped a few ppl.
Looks like @pyang86 is builing a how-to guide for just this. Tritton Kunai Headphone Jack Replacement But untill then. Carefully cut open the faulty jack with a sharp plade and study the cables on the jack. There is no real industry standard for cable color on TRS or TRRS plugs. when searching for 3.5mm jack, instead search for T(tip)R(ring)R(ring)S(sleeve) edit: spellcheck edit2: erased faulty comment. Thanks @jayeff
The shaft could've broken, making it spin freely. If turning the upper blade still turns the ring-gear in the middle of the copter you need to check if the gearteeth is meshing with its corresponding motor my 2 cents, hope it helps :)
Electric engine-cooling fan motors only run when the thermostat opens or coolant temperature reaches a set temperature. So no, it doesn't run all the time. edit: to check the operation of the cooling fan, with the radiator fixed, let the car run for 5-10 minutes, this should be sufficient for the engine to heat up and meet the criteria for the fan to start. Just keep an eye on the intrument-cluster for coolant temperature so that it doesn't overheat.
Might be internal leakage of the engine if there is no external leak. My first thought is headgasket, if there's no external leakage. One easy way to check that, is to look at the expansion-tank for the coolant, where you fill in the engine coolant. If it's brown and "gunky" and/or if it smells like exhaust it's most likely the headgasket. Since you need to fill it up on each drive it ought to smell fairly strong. If not you can go to a workshop that can measure exhaust values, and ask them to check for exhaust in the expansion-tank. *** NOTE HERE: When checking the engine coolant for exhausts you need to do it while the engine is running, and opening the expansion-tank with the engine running can be hazardous, the lid has a safety feature where it opens in two stages, if the tank is hissing at the first stage, cover it with a cloth and wait for it to stop. When it has stopped hissing you can open it completely. *** Another is to see if it bellows white smoke in excess from the exhaust pipe. Finally is to...
Better late than never I guess Had a similar problem, that has worsened since then, in my case it's the switch itself that is the problem. Seems like the switch is of an inferior quality. But wouldn't recommend to solder it off just yet, maybe check if there's gunk in-between the switch and the switch-arm. The switch-arm that is visible from the outside of the device is like an adapter that is connected to the switch on the pcb, in order to limit the amount of dust to enter, and to make it look pretty..ier