Alec

2001 Chevy Blazer LT 4WD V6 4.3L: EDIT3: Since I replaced the switch, I’m led to believe that the only other things it...

Problem: The computer will not post. It shows signs of booting such as fans spinning, and the optical drive audibly...

I purchased an i7-8700k and completely spaced that you need a 300 series motherboard. I attempted to boot it in my...

Initial Issue:: I’m trying to fix my iMac. It will not boot to any kind of device or partition. It will startup and chime,...

Here’s an update. I took it to mechanic. Turn out it’s not an electric issues at all. The drier canister is bad, and wasn’t pushing the refrigerant to the pressure switch. I’ll be purchasing an AC kit for the vehicle and replacing the whole AC system. I will update if this works.

I recommend using isopropyl or ethyl alcohol, to completely drench them in it. Then use a disposable toothbrush to scrub them. The toothbrush should be gentle enough that it doesn’t harm the small filter in the ear piece, and alcohol dries very quickly, so when your done you can let it sit for a couple hours to dry.

Hmmm. There’s not a lot of details on this post for someone to really be able to help you very much. Here is the support page for your printer which not only has the drivers that you will NEED, but also has user guides as well as installation guides. You can also try the HP Print & Scan Doctor, which we have found to be fairly successful at automatically fixing any printing issues.

Unfortunately for your model, there is no “non-touch-screen” version of your display. Also, It does not look like the digitizer is sold separately from the display assembly, so you will have to replace the whole display assembly. I found a fairly affordable display assembly though, and the replacement should be as simple as plugging the LCD in and screwing the hinges in place. You can find the part on eBay here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Acer-Chromebook-C720P-Black-Lcd-Touch-Screen-Digitizer-Module-11-6/202344430135?epid=19020511573&hash=ite...-1&frcectupt=true

Most of the time, when a full charge only last a couple of minutes, it means that the battery is dead and needs to be replaced. With the information given, it sounds like this is the case. To prevent batteries from dying faster in the future, try not to keep the laptop plugged in after the computer has been charged to 100%

Normally flickering is caused by a faulty LCD cable, so that’s where I would start as that is the cheapest solution. Since the screen works on an external display, it’s not likely the motherboard, so we can rule that out for now. If the LCD cable doesn’t work, you can try replacing the LCD screen as well.

Unfortunately it sounds like your motherboard has failed. I would find a replacement for you online, but you didn’t enter enough info on the model for me to find it for you.

Unfortunately, the NVMe SSD in the Surface Pro 6 is soldered onto the motherboard. Hope this answers your question.

Here is the owners manual for your device: http://cc.cnetcontent.com/inlinecontent/... You say that a little red light comes on like its charging, however, a solid amber light indicates that the charger is disconnected, and that the battery has a charge between 5% and 20%. I would recommend using a multi-meter to test your charger. As for it not powering on, you should try to remove the RTC battery, the main battery and the charger and hold the power button for about 30 seconds. After reconnecting you can see if it will power on. If that doesn’t work, you will need to test the power-button and the motherboard with a multi-meter, it could be that the power button broke, or that the board isn’t getting power.

The fans will be relatively easy because they’re right behind the back panel. As for the heatsink, you will have pull out the motherboard, which can be a little tricky since you might have to pull out other parts, but if you keep good notes, and take pictures, you should have no issues.

I have this model, but I only found 4 cables, 2 were ribbon cables. Just look inside and unplug anything that is connecting the display to the motherboard.

It’s a lot easier to use two suction cups on the bottom corners, and then slide some cards in between the screen and the case.

Did this for a customer at my shop. Used all iFixit tools and parts. He called back 3 weeks later because the screen fell out. What causes this? Can the iFixit adhesive strips be trusted? We’re out $600 because we have to replace this screen now, and we can’t even be sure that it will not happen again. What can we do?