Hi @organicnz , I think it could be PQ202 and it’s component AON7408L_DFN8-5, same as PQ206, PQ108, PQ303, PQ305, PQ501 and PQ701. It looks like the capacitors are burned too. If they are defective and you don’t know the PN, measure please, if they are connected to the ground or not, then, let me know.
Hello, jalotodelima, if you have a voltmeter at home, let’s measure, if the power supply is working properly or not, easily measure the voltage between the red and black wire of your fan. It must be 12V (11,9 - 12,1) stable. So power on your console, attach the measure + probe to the red and measure - probe to black. If there is no voltage (12V) or if the voltage is dropping down, it’s an issue of your power supply (from the MB to the FAN). The second scenario of the issue could be the MB signal to turn on the FAN. To measure the mentioned signal, you must have an oscilloscope (if yes, you certainly know how to measure the signal), if you don’t have an oscilloscope, easily un-solder the yellow (or 3rd cable), then power on your console and if the FAN is still not working and the inputting voltage is 12V (first paragraph), the FAN is fault. In the other way, your FAN will work on 100% performance, because you disconnected the speed control signal input. It’s no problem, but if you want to solve the signal...
Hi @lokikhan , the restarting PC is usually caused by hardware crash (collapse) or unexpected system thread stopped. The first case is easy to “demonstrate”. If we will think about the system crash, it doesn’t mean that you will automatically get an issue with a blue death. System or software crash: (1) Run the Event Viewer on your PC (2) Select the Windows Logs Then select the categories for view any issue or messages, so start by clicking on the first Application category and search for the issue in time, when your PC goes to restart. After you check the first category, proceed to the another. If you will find any issue, you can post the logs here to see what you can do, otherwise insert error message to google and find the solution there. Hardware issue (1) Download Stress Test for the HW In several times, the stress test is a complex application, which can measure the performance and temperature in real-time during the high-performance test. If some hardware is about to crash, the stress test will show...
Hi Yahziel, it could be a thermistor issue or the USB charging board flex cable, you can search for the thermistor on the USB charging board and replace it with a new one, but first, check the proper connection between your USB charging board and flex cable. In 90% of cases, it’s a bad flex cable.
Hi @cma11en , there are a several posts with this issue. In 99% it’s capacitors fault. So disassemble your TV to the PCBAs and visually check the assembled capacitors, if there is no visible damage, you will have harder work, because the capacitors are having some electronics properties, but you will never measure the right value (in-circuit measuring), for 100% test your capacitors, you have to un-solder capacitors and measure the capacity by capacity test and rechargeable curve (also discharging curve), then compare the characteristics with the datasheet. So I’m suggesting you exchange all of the electrolyte capacitors on the power board (assuming to your power’s PCBA is without visual damage). The cost of the capacitors will be near to 5$ per all, so it’s very cheap repair… For this repair you don’t need knowledge about measuring by multimeter or by an oscilloscope, it’s beginner soldering. For more details and confirming please visit cnet forum with the same post.
Hi @pistol357 , for 99% it will be the LED Strip on the TV. Easily check this fact by removing chassis and power on your TV. If it’s a fault, remove the strip and search for the PN to order the same, if there will not be any information about part number (it have to be), you can order the alternatives from the eBay or Ali express, but choose carefully, read the specs of your led strip to order same, and I’m suggesting you order 2PCS, because the shine will be never same in non-original parts.
Hi Gary, this issue’s having a lot of potentially fixing methods. Older power management driver (1) Install an older Driver for Intel Management Engine Interface (2) Firtst try V10 then V9 (if V10 didnt work) Hardware collision (1) Something may block shut down - Especially HDD, if there is with cooperate with SSD. (only if your system is located on the SSD) - Reformat the HDD or use the different partition. BIOS bug (1) Re-Flash your BIOS (2) Wipe CMOS - Unplug your MB from the power supply, remove the CMOS battery and then plug the battery back Motherboard fault (1) Your motherboard may be defective, in this case, if it’s still under the warranty, send your MB back to the supplier and want a new one. If it’s not under the warranty, it’s time to start thinking about a new.