Basically I am an electronic technician but left that job nearly two decades ago going on with IT, mainly Linux administration, but also very familiar with the "inners" of computers.
I started working on computers (home- and business) back in 1981 as a hobby driven by my father already working at an IT department.
Later on my interest changed to electronics and then to guitar playing and tube amplifiers.
Since the beginning of the 1990s I modify, built and tune tube amplifiers for guitar, beside working as a freelancer for IT departments and driving hill climb races.
If there is anybody interested contacting me directly, please do not hesitate and use stone(AT)stones-amp-inn.de
質問
Hello I don't how to sum it up in the title ... hopefully some people are reading this :-) I have got a MBP 13" late 2011...
続きを読むHello I like to know if there is someone who has swapped the LCD of a MBP 13" with a LCD with a higher resolution (e.g....
続きを読むHello I am a little bit lost ... I would like to install iOS 6, 7 or 8 to an iPAD 3 (model A1460). This model is described...
続きを読むHello A friend of mine came up with an MBP 13" late 2011 - in general it does not have any backlight (the logo is dark,...
続きを読むHello I have got parts of a MacBook from late 2008 (the 2 GHz ones, not a Pro) and I have got an early 2011 13" MBP where...
続きを読むHello I have got a 2012 Mac Mini, i7 CPU, 16 GB RAM installed. Last year I extended the disc capacity by adding a 240GB...
続きを読むHello I was offered the above described MBP at a fair price with the hint, it may be defect / broken. The current owner...
続きを読むHello What function do the red circled copper pins do have, which are "all over" the logic board of e.g. my MBP A1286 or...
続きを読むHello Another display question from my side ... as I do not have the scheme of the early 2011 MB 17", I would like to...
続きを読むHello I was offered a MacBook Pro unibody from early 2011 with 2 GHz i7 QC processor. The MB seems to be defect, as the...
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回答
Update: I exchanged the LCD panel with an old one I got (scratches on it). It is now working, until I dim the panel ... or it is working because I switched off "automatic brightness adjustment" (don't know how it is called in english exactly). The same moment I reboot the machine, wether I dimmed it before, the backlight is working again. This leads me to the question, if it has something to do with the PWM source (not sure, if it is voltage or data word driven, need to look it up) or with the light sensor. Will continue ... but it is pretty strange, that with the previous installed LCD panel it did not matter, if brightness was adjusted or not. Maybe it has something to do with current draw of the panels, but then backlight voltage should have been dropped, but it was not.
続きを読むUpdate: I do not know why, but after finding a schem and a board layout file on the web, I decided to analyze the error in more detail - so I started measuring again, after a close look to the board layout and the schem where to take some measurements. I found out that two caps right "in front of" the LVDS connector are connected to backlight and should contain some higher voltage - also the fuse should let me read more than 3.3 volts. So I took out my leads and measured and found out, the caps let me read 19.3 volts and the fuse - don't know why - gives me 11.6 volts. As the used leads are rather "thick" in comparison to the parts on the board I guess there are some crossover resistances and the measurements are ok. From the data sheet of a Apple 13" display I get 20 volts as typical for the backlight. I can still measure those values even if the backlight is off, so I assume it is the LVDS cable or the LCD panel - it seems, as if I leave the bottom case removed, the light stays (I need to check this)...
続きを読むupdate: the last one for today ;) I put the MBP to sleep and after opening it the internal display is working for some seconds - this does work every time after awakening the MBP
続きを読むupdate: I measured voltage on fuse while turning on the MBP - 3.3 volts every time. The MBP starts, the display does show the grey screen for some seconds, the measurement on the fuse shows me 3.3 volts, the display dims to black, but I still have 3.3 volts. And I noticed, it is not going to sleep if I pull off the HDD cable. If there is anyone having an idea, I will exchange the LCD tomorrow.
続きを読むupdate: I read some more of the threads here on ifixit and came across some which are dealing with a broken or stuck sleep sensor, but I am a little bit unsure about it. I assume the sleep LED on the front and the sleep sensor are both located on the small PCB which is located under the outer HDD bracket; if I remove the HDD cable and switch on MBP the display just shows the grey screen for around 3 to 5 seconds and then dims to black. This looks a bit like going to sleep just for the display. I located a magnet on the upper right side in the display cover and also there is a magnet located under the outer HDD bracket - do they just "hold" the display cover closed when it is closed or do they belong to the sleep sensor. Is there a second cable for the sensor - if yes, where? And can I disconnect it? I assume then MBP would never go to sleep mode. Regards, Stone
続きを読むUpdate: I just found a picture here on ifixit which shows the fuse (labeled with "P" on the MacBook I have on the table). On one side I can measure a voltage of 3.3 volts (3.28 according to my multimeter), on the other side there are 0 volts. The point of the fuse, where I can measure 3.3 volts is to the inner side of the logicboard (away from the LVDS connector), the point with 0 volts is to the outer side of the logicboard (near to the LVDS connector). Switching to "diode test" of my multimeter (with beep) there is no beep, but a small resistance of around 58 ohms - not that much. If I make a "diode test" on both sides of the fuse, I notice that the side with 0 volts has no resistance to ground, so I got a beep ... All measurements have been taken with one lead / tip "grounded" to the DC-board screws (the silver connection around them). Without having a scheme of the late 2011 13" MBP I assume that I should measure 3.3 volts on both sides of the fuse - am I right? But this does make no sense, if one side...
続きを読むHi Increasing RAM will avoid both OS's to use the drive for swap space. If you give e.g. 1GB to OS X and 3GB to Win, OS-X will start swapping, which results in heavy HD activity. On the other hand it seems - like mentioned before - you are running a heavy CPU consuming app in your VM. I would check that first with Windows task Mgr. Regards, Stone
続きを読むHi Is this a 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine? On a 4-stroke it could happen, gasoline is running down the cylinder walls if mixture is way to rich. But then will notice gas in the oil ... just a few millilitres so to say. If it is a 2-stroke, gas and oil will be mixed before entering the cylinder, I think, and I would have a look if there 's a broken valve or something, so that gas can run down the oil line, if the engine is off. Regards, Stone
続きを読むp.s: sometimes the internal is running normal for a few seconds or minutes and then it turns to dark ... moving the top case does not bring back the light, so I am assuming it is not the cable - the MBP was dropped as I was told
続きを読むHello Sorry, but had some problems to access ifixit - got some errors while posting an answer; hopefully it will work now. As I can seen there not much parts exchangeable. But if I am right, and what to mention from stores, LVDS cable seems to be exchangeable with MacBook Pro 13" early and late 2011? And also the TFT / LCD itself? Regards, Stone
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Stone
@stone36103
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