Hi! I have a 10(+?) year old Maytag Centennial top load washer with some issue(s). Model MWVC500VW1 It started a year or...

I have a Kitchenaid Microwave KEMS378GSS0. So the lights on, the fan's running, and the carousel is turning, but only...

I believe you can see the top of the battery once you've removed the top cover (? Haven't opened one myself.) You can often just relieve the pressure in a swollen battery by piercing the outer covering, as the pressure is just caused by gas being released. It's NOT something you want to do in a confined area where you'll be breathing the gas. Piercing the cover is also not something recommended for the life of the battery, but if it's swollen, it's a step away from being dead already. When ready, just step outdoors and use a pin or needle. Be careful to try and only pierce the outer wrapping. You do not want to push a piece of metal into the solid battery itself. Consider only doing it when the battery is completely dead, or at least use somewhat thick rubber gloves or insulated pliers to hold the pin/needle. I haven't tried it with an iPod, but worked with a cell phone battery that was bulging, plus I was able to keep using it for several more months instead of replacing the battery.

For anyone interested, I did finally fix this. Replaced 3 door switches to no avail. Further checking while it was apart revealed that the door wasn't closing 100%, so one of the door switches (interlock #2) wasn't engaging. Top part of door looked spread slightly, which seemed to be what was keeping it from working. Maybe a result of taking the door apart repeatedly to replace the torsion springs. I finally just dremeled the inner edge of the two latches on the door so that the rotating mechanisms that the microswitches sit in could turn an extra mm further. (a little counter-intuitive because the latches first turn the disks inward, but when mostly in the springs push the disks in the other direction so that the latches are then keeping the disks from turning further.) That pretty much did the trick. Not perfect, but the switches do engage 95% of the time when closed. If not and the light's on, a light push or tap is enough for it to register as closed. PS. As I was trying to fix this, the MW changed to...

Still think the display is quite nice and use it as a TV in the spare bedroom (works with generic Sony remote and HDMI input from satellite box), but I too have had problems with it. Luckily, my main board failed (blinking red light) while it was still under warranty. They sent me a free shipping box and prepaid label and I got back a working unit a couple weeks later.

Now though, every couple weeks the picture won't come on, just the sound. Easy fix, like mentioned before, is to hard reset the monitor. I just unplug it for a few seconds and when plugged back in, it works again for a couple weeks, month, or so.