iPhone 5cのリアケースの交換

to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

cool i diden't now

very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

Using a can works really well!

These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

Why do we need to disconnect the battery?

Sorry, I missed the comments on step 9 that detail the procedure.

Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

In step 9: I think you are talking about the 3,25 and 1,7mm one not the 1,3 and the 1,7mm?

DO NOT Remove the battery, there is no need to and can cause unnecessary damage! There's a tutorial on YouTube that does it without!

I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

*warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

Very clear and percise.

the adhesive tab is actually folded back upon itself. Gentle agitation on what appears to be the edge will in fact show you that it is flexible and can be "unfolded". When unfolded, it will allow you to see what they are talking about. GENTLE is the operative word !

I also didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightening cable. I'd say skip it unless you have big fingers, because it is a tight space.

It is a must to use a little heat. In my instance I used some hand warmers. My first attempt was with some older ones that didn’t get too hot. I then pulled out some others and using a little bit of time and several hand warmers it seemed to soften the grip of the tape underneath the battery. Using a hair dryer might have been my next step had my hand warmer trick not worked. USE HEAT!!!! It is your friend.

Pulling upwards with a gentle tug on the now exposed black end of the adhesive tab will reveal a white film (look at the end of the tweezers). This white/black interface will have a small cutout already in the middle. Cut the adhesive tab using this as a midpoint guide.

Use heat beforehand to soften the grip of the sticky double sided tape that is used to keep the battery in place. USING HEAT IS A PREREQUISITE if you want this to go smoother. I also ended up using a little dental floss the come from underneath and then used it to saw back and forth to loosen the grip of the tape. Just take your time and use the magic of heat to loosen the grip.

I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!

My tabs broke. I had to pry the battery out. Took my time and it came out okay. The adhesive residue was a pain to remove though.

My tabs broke as well, quite close to the battery's lower corners. Then I discovered a reasonably hot surface to place the phone - my quite old Apple Airport Extreme. I warmed the phone for a couple of 3 minute sessions, that didn't loosen the glue but made it more malleable. Then proceeded to carefully pull the tab on the logic board's side with tweezers, which was a success. After that I could get an old ID card under the battery and push the other tab into itself. That done, the glue basically gave out and the battery was free.

So my advice would be to use some sort of heat before pulling on the tabs, which will make them a bit easier to work with. It does take some time but result counts, right?

This was more tricky than I thought. I bent the original battery quite hard to get it of, while blowing the phone with a hair dryer. I fixed two 5c's for my kids and I ordered one kit and a extra battery. I didn't understand when ordering that just one pair of adhesive strips came along, with the kit. I partial them using one strip each on the phones. Hope that it will work. Everything seems to work with the phones.

Don't pull too hard or it will break just gently apply presaure

If u do break the tabs the lift the top end of th battery and get them from that end

the adhesive is very strong and does NOT pull free. you MUST use heat (iopener) or similar to apply heat to it. go slow and when (not if) the adhesive snaps you will have to find a way to shove a spudger or an old credit card under the battery. after that, just rub your finger over the adhesive firmly and “roll” it out. this stuff is really nasty.

Whilst pulling the adhesive strips from beneath the battery, I was making sure to not pull too fast and also to keep in flat, not twisted, and it still snapped on both sides way before I even got half way… I haven’t had my battery replaced at all so the adhesive should be authentic Apple factory standards. Be SUPER careful at this stage people, I’m going to try and remove the battery with the adhesive in place :S

I was able to remove the first strip as the guide discusses in Step#20. When I attempted to peel the second strip, as in Step #21 above, it broke. This left the adhesive strip on half of the battery and I was unable to grip anything. I got some dental floss and threaded it underneath the already free side. I then used a slight back and forth motion to loosen the grip of the other half of the strip enough that I could "GENTLY" pry the free side of the battery up. Taking extreme care not to pry against any components of the phone. I then gently pried the battery up a little at a time along with using a sawing motion on the dental floss to eventually free the battery from the underlying adhesive strip. Takes patience and persistence. GENTLY being the operative word.

At this step, be VERY careful with the two gold-colored prongs (pins) right next to the lightening cable port. If you crush/bend/collapse these pins, they won’t make contact with the screen side when re-assemble the phone, making your Home button non-functional.

If accidentally collapsed the pin because you pushed on it, be VERY careful bending it back. You have one shot at getting this right. Over-bending leads to the pins breaking off, and then you’re really f’ed. That’s what happened to me, and I had to solder some tin onto the base to build-up to the right height; very tedious.

https://s.real.com/jnjcW3 This shows photo of what I’m talking about.

Use heat before attempting to remove adhesive strips. They will break. Heat helps tp loosen the grip and is your friend. Dental floss can also be a good helper to saw back and forth once you get it under one corner of the battery. Go slow and take your time. USE HEAT BEFOREHAND. I FOUNF THAT IT TOOK A GOOD 3-5 minutes to get everything hot enough to loosen the grip of the tape.

you can substitute a 'bed buddy' or similar microwave activated heating pack here for the iOpener. i eventually wound up working on-top-of the heading pad as at softened the adhesive. take your time and let the heat work

A hairdryer works too. Aim it at the same spot on the back of the phone, don't let it get too hot though.

Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!

If you’ve pried the battery out near the bottom, you might want to reseat the speaker assembly after putting the new battery back in - it’s very easy to knock the speaker and lightning connectors loose when getting the battery out this way.

Ensure you note the routing of the antenna cable. Reassembly will require that the antenna cable goes above the corner of the speaker enclosure.

These screws didn't fit our brand new Phillips #000 at all, but they did fit a J #000 just fine.

The light is not Working if I can get new iPhone 5c if okay with you

I’ve done this twice and still cannot understand why we are removing the speaker before removing the antenna on top of it. It gets in the way, and again when you reverse the instructions when you put the antenna on first and then the speaker… I’ve been swapping those steps instead.

Why remove this microscopic bracket? That was the hardest part of the whole job. Just keep it on, but alert people to its presence to ensure they don't let it slip off. But putting it back on was a pain.

I concur with "jacobstevens". I just left well-enough alone. I made sure that the bracket was intact and that it remained so during the remainder of the procedure so it was ready to go when re-assembling. I also understand why this step exists... CYA!

When reversing this and reseating the new component, you really need to give it a push to lock in. Just touching the connectors will make most of the phone work, but you need to have the connector locked in completely for the home button to activate

This is not the wifi antenna. This is the primary cellular antenna.

Follow Up on this one -- turns out I had loosened the screw already but it got kinda "soft-stuck" and just would not fall out of the hole (or turn any further). I almost stripped it totally but then poked around by trying steps 35-37 in advance, then I found I could turn the screw back inward (clockwise), then back out again, and kind of jimmy it out of the hole to complete the disassembly. I was VERY lucky that it was still usable for the re-assembly with the replacement part.

Pay close attention to the orientation of the microphone gasket.

There is also a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack that should also be transferred.

Yeah, that darn headphone jack gasket got me. I didn't notice it at all until it fell off the old assembly.

Hello, how do i disconnect the antenna on the rear case to put on the new rear case, this tear down never removes this antenna from the rear case.

Think the title was meant to say “Rear Facing Camera”, not “Audio Control and Power Button Cable.

Don't forget to remove the WiFi antenna. In the photo you'll see a circular shape directly to the left of the antenna cable connector. Lift this piece of tape and remove the screw underneath. You can remove the antenna with your spudger.

Thank You edunbarr :)