はじめに

Follow the steps in this guide to remove or replace a faulty or water-damaged logic board in an iPad mini 4 LTE.

Note that if you replace your logic board without a paired home button, you will lose Touch ID functionality.

  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. For particularly bad breaks, you may need to lay down two layers.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Protect your eyes! This procedure will cause small pieces of glass to fly directly toward your face. Do not attempt without safety glasses.

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We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - 返信

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - 返信

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - 返信

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - 返信

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - 返信

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - 返信

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - 返信

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - 返信

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - 返信

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - 返信

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - 返信

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - 返信

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - 返信

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - 返信

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - 返信

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - 返信

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - 返信

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - 返信

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - 返信

Handling it by the tabs on either side, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
  • Handling it by the tabs on either side, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

  • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

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Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from from the rear case.
  • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from from the rear case.

  • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

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While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
  • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

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Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.
  • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
  • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
  • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
  • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.
  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

  • As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive. Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
  • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

  • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

  • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
  • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
  • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

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Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
  • Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

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Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary. Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary. Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary.
  • Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary.

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Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
  • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

  • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

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Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge. Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device. Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.
  • Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge.

  • Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.

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Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button. Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.
  • Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.

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Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one. Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.
  • Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.

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Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad. Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.
  • Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.

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Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button. Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button. Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.
  • Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.

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Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place. Lift the display from the top edge to open the device. Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.
  • Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place.

  • Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.

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To avoid stressing any cables, hold the display assembly perpendicular to the body of the iPad until it is disconnected.
  • To avoid stressing any cables, hold the display assembly perpendicular to the body of the iPad until it is disconnected.

  • Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws over the battery/display connector bracket.

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Remove the battery/display cable bracket.
  • Remove the battery/display cable bracket.

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When disconnecting any press connectors from the logic board, be sure to lift the connector straight up to avoid ripping the socket off the board. Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • When disconnecting any press connectors from the logic board, be sure to lift the connector straight up to avoid ripping the socket off the board.

  • Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector ribbon cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact and powering on the iPad.

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board. When reconnecting these, press down from one end of the connector to the other. If you press in the middle of the connector, you may bend it, causing damage or a poor connection.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting these, press down from one end of the connector to the other. If you press in the middle of the connector, you may bend it, causing damage or a poor connection.

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Remove the display assembly.
  • Remove the display assembly.

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Run the pointed end of a spudger between the looped tape and the plastic cellular antenna housing to make it easier to peel the tape up. Run the pointed end of a spudger between the looped tape and the plastic cellular antenna housing to make it easier to peel the tape up.
  • Run the pointed end of a spudger between the looped tape and the plastic cellular antenna housing to make it easier to peel the tape up.

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Use tweezers to peel up the looped tape adhered over the upper component cable bracket. Use tweezers to peel up the looped tape adhered over the upper component cable bracket. Use tweezers to peel up the looped tape adhered over the upper component cable bracket.
  • Use tweezers to peel up the looped tape adhered over the upper component cable bracket.

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Remove the following four Phillips screws holding the upper component bracket in place:
  • Remove the following four Phillips screws holding the upper component bracket in place:

    • Two 2.1 mm screws

    • Two 1.2 mm screws

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Remove the upper component cable bracket.
  • Remove the upper component cable bracket.

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Press a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the SIM eject hole. Remove the SIM card tray. Remove the SIM card tray.
  • Press a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the SIM eject hole.

  • Remove the SIM card tray.

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Use a spudger to disconnect the upper antenna interconnect cable from its socket on the logic board. Lift the cable connector straight up from the board, do not pry on the socket itself.
  • Use a spudger to disconnect the upper antenna interconnect cable from its socket on the logic board.

    • Lift the cable connector straight up from the board, do not pry on the socket itself.

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Peel the upper antenna interconnect cable up off the logic board. Peel the upper antenna interconnect cable up off the logic board. Peel the upper antenna interconnect cable up off the logic board.
  • Peel the upper antenna interconnect cable up off the logic board.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rear-facing camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Lift the sensor cable connector from its socket. Disconnect the right cellular antenna from the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rear-facing camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Lift the sensor cable connector from its socket.

  • Disconnect the right cellular antenna from the logic board.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera press connector. Lift the Facetime camera ribbon cable out of the way and disconnect the headphone jack ribbon cable directly underneath it. Lift the Facetime camera ribbon cable out of the way and disconnect the headphone jack ribbon cable directly underneath it.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera press connector.

  • Lift the Facetime camera ribbon cable out of the way and disconnect the headphone jack ribbon cable directly underneath it.

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Remove the 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the volume control cable.
  • Remove the 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the volume control cable.

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Remove the volume control cable bracket.
  • Remove the volume control cable bracket.

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Use the point of a spudger to lift the volume control cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Be careful to lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket on the logic board.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the volume control cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful to lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket on the logic board.

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Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the two lower antenna interconnect cable connectors. Lift the cables straight up from the board, do not pry on the sockets on the logic board.
  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the two lower antenna interconnect cable connectors.

    • Lift the cables straight up from the board, do not pry on the sockets on the logic board.

  • The longer cable will reconnect to the socket nearest the SIM card slot. The shorter cable connects to the socket nearest the display cable connectors.

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Remove any tape covering the ZIF connectors near the Lightning connector port. Remove any tape covering the ZIF connectors near the Lightning connector port.
  • Remove any tape covering the ZIF connectors near the Lightning connector port.

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Use the tip of a spudger to lift each of the two ZIF connector retaining flaps. Use the tip of a spudger to lift each of the two ZIF connector retaining flaps. Use the tip of a spudger to lift each of the two ZIF connector retaining flaps.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift each of the two ZIF connector retaining flaps.

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Pull each speaker cable out from its ZIF socket. Pull each speaker cable out from its ZIF socket.
  • Pull each speaker cable out from its ZIF socket.

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Peel the lower antenna interconnect cables away from the corner of the rear case. Peel the lower antenna interconnect cables away from the corner of the rear case.
  • Peel the lower antenna interconnect cables away from the corner of the rear case.

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Peel the left antenna interconnect cable up off the Lightning port cable. Peel the left antenna interconnect cable up off the Lightning port cable.
  • Peel the left antenna interconnect cable up off the Lightning port cable.

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Remove the four 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the rear case.
  • Remove the four 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the rear case.

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Begin to gently lift the Lightning connector cable up. Begin to gently lift the Lightning connector cable up.
  • Begin to gently lift the Lightning connector cable up.

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Use an opening pick to separate the adhesive connecting the lightning connector cable to the iPad case. If you push with pick too hard, or slip, you could sever the Lightning port cable. You should not need a lot of force, if you are struggling, reapply an iOpener to the back of the case to warm the adhesive.
  • Use an opening pick to separate the adhesive connecting the lightning connector cable to the iPad case.

  • If you push with pick too hard, or slip, you could sever the Lightning port cable.

  • You should not need a lot of force, if you are struggling, reapply an iOpener to the back of the case to warm the adhesive.

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Continue to slide the pick under the Lightning port cable until you reach the end of the logic board. Leave the pick in place to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering.
  • Continue to slide the pick under the Lightning port cable until you reach the end of the logic board.

  • Leave the pick in place to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering.

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Bend back the battery connector over the battery, out of the way of the logic board. Be very careful in the following steps not to sever any cables.
  • Bend back the battery connector over the battery, out of the way of the logic board.

  • Be very careful in the following steps not to sever any cables.

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Reheat an iOpener and lay it on the backside of the iPad near the SIM slot for at least two minutes.
  • Reheat an iOpener and lay it on the backside of the iPad near the SIM slot for at least two minutes.

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Once the adhesive has softened, carfully push the opening pick under the logic board.
  • Once the adhesive has softened, carfully push the opening pick under the logic board.

  • Be very cautious and patient as you pry, do not sever the battery cable, antenna cable, or Lightning port cable.

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Once the opening pick has lifted a corner of the logic board, you can insert a plastic card under the board. Slide the plastic card under the logic board, toward the top of the iPad, near the cameras.
  • Once the opening pick has lifted a corner of the logic board, you can insert a plastic card under the board.

  • Slide the plastic card under the logic board, toward the top of the iPad, near the cameras.

    • If the logic board adhesive provides too much resistance, reheat your iOpener and lay it on the rear case to soften the glue.

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Insert a second plastic card underneath the first one. It's easiest to lead with the corner of the plastic card, then slide the long edge underneath the logic board. Slide the second plastic card up to the top edge of the logic board.
  • Insert a second plastic card underneath the first one.

    • It's easiest to lead with the corner of the plastic card, then slide the long edge underneath the logic board.

  • Slide the second plastic card up to the top edge of the logic board.

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Lift up on the edges of both plastic cards to pry the logic board from the rear case. Lift up on the edges of both plastic cards to pry the logic board from the rear case.
  • Lift up on the edges of both plastic cards to pry the logic board from the rear case.

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Remove the logic board assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the logic board assembly from the rear case.

  • If you are replacing your logic board with a new part, be sure the parts match identically, you may need to transfer additional components.

  • iPad mini 4 logic boards are paired to their home buttons, if you replace your logic board, you will no longer have Touch ID functionality.

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まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

ある他の人がこのガイドを完成しました。

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