お持ちのiMacがSSDかFusion Driveを搭載している場合、ロジックボードの後ろにblade SSDがあります。このガイドはBlade SSDにアクセスし、取り外す手順です。

iMacへの作業を開始する前に iMacの電源プラグを外し、電源のコンデンサの電気を放電させるために電源ボタンを10秒押してください。


  1. ディスプレイの左側、つまり電源ボタンに近い方から始めます。iMacオープニングツールをガラス面とケースの側面の間に差し込みます。
    • ディスプレイの左側、つまり電源ボタンに近い方から始めます。iMacオープニングツールをガラス面とケースの側面の間に差し込みます。

    • iMacオープニングツールのハブ(車輪の中心部)は、ホイールをあまりにも押しすぎないようにします。 別の工具を使用する場合は、ディスプレイに3/8インチ(9.5 mm)を超えて挿入しないでください。アンテナケーブルを切断して重大な損傷を引き起こす危険性があります。

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - 返信

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

  2. ツールをピザカッターを使うように隙間の上を滑らせます。この方法で真ん中に付けられた泡状の接着剤を切り込みます。
    • ツールをピザカッターを使うように隙間の上を滑らせます。この方法で真ん中に付けられた泡状の接着剤を切り込みます。

    • 車輪部で接着剤を切り込む際は、必ずハンドルを押しながら作業を進めてください。もし引いた場合、車輪部とハンドルが外れる可能性があります。

    • 左側全ての上にツールを滑らせます。

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - 返信

    • 続けて左上部コーナーまでツールを転がします。


    • ディスプレイの左側上部を沿って接着剤を切り込みます。

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

    • ディスプレイ上面も同様に続けます。

    • ツールで前後に動かしたり既に切った部分をもう一度切ることで接着剤の切開をより確実にすることができます。


    • ディスプレイの右上面周囲の角もツールで押して切開します。


    • ディスプレイの右端にツールの車輪を押し下げます。


    • ディスプレイの右下角までツールを押しながら切開して作業は終了します。

    • このとき、ディスプレイ全体にもう一度ツールを通して、接着剤が切断されているか確実に点検することもできます。


    • 開口ツールで作業の大部分は対応できますが、ディスプレイは(完全にはがれておらず)ケースに若干繋がっています。この残りの接着剤を剥がすにはプラスチックカードが必要です。

    • iMacの画面側を上に向けます。

    • iMacの右上隅から、ディスプレイとフレームの間にプラスチックカードを挿入します。

      • 3/8 インチ(9.5 mm)以上挿入しないでください。内部の部品が損傷する可能性があります。

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - 返信

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - 返信

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - 返信

    • プラスチックカードをゆっくりとねじって、ディスプレイとフレームの間のスペースを開きます。

    • ゆっくりと移動し、ディスプレイガラスに過度のストレスがかからないように注意してください。約1/4インチ(6mm)の隙間を開けてください。

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

    • この手順では、iSightカメラの前でスライドを止めてください。破損する恐れがあります。

    • カードをディスプレイの中央に向かってスライドさせ、残っている接着剤を切断します。

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - 返信

    • カードをもう一度コーナーに戻して、接着剤が再付着するのを防ぐためにカードをそこに残しておきます。


    • 左上隅のディスプレイとフレームの間に2枚目のカードを挿入します。


    • 軽くカードをねじって、ディスプレイとフレームの間のスペースを少し広げます。

    • 反対側と同様に、接着剤が剥がれるようにゆっくりと移動させ、ディスプレイガラスに過度の負担がかからないように注意してください。


    • プラスチックカードを中央に向かってスライドさせ、もう一度iSightカメラの直前で止めます。


    • カードを左上隅の上部に差し込みます。


    • ディスプレイを5cm程度持ち上げてください。ーまだデータケーブルと電源ケーブルがiMacに接続されたままの状態です。

    • カードがコーナー付近に挿入された状態で、カードをゆっくりとねじってディスプレイとケースの間の隙間を広げます。

    • 固着されたまま剥がれない部分がある場合は、作業を中断してまだ付着している接着剤を切断するためにもう一枚カードを使用してください。

    • ディスプレイの上部をフレームから持ち上げます。

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - 返信

    • ディスプレイを片方の手で持ちながら、もう片方でディスプレイの電源コードの接続を抜きます。

      • 接続部に簡単にアクセスできるようにディスプレイを(少し)持ち上げてください。ただし、ケーブルを引っ張ったり、接続部を圧迫しないようご注意ください。(約20cm程度)

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - 返信

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - 返信

    • ディスプレイのデータケーブル上の金属製の留め金具を取り出します。

    • ディスプレイデータケーブルを外します。

      • これは簡単に壊れる可能性のある繊細な接続です。 ディスプレイデータケーブルコネクタをソケットからiMacの上部に向けてまっすぐ引き出します。

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - 返信

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - 返信

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - 返信

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - 返信

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Lionheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - 返信

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.


    Bryan - 返信

    • ディスプレイを垂直に近い位置まで持ち上げます。

    • この時点で、ディスプレイの底部に接着剤がまだ残っています(ディスプレイをフレームに固定するための蝶番のような細長い接着剤)。 ディスプレイを上下に数回動かすと、この接着剤を緩めることができます。

    • できるだけ多量の接着剤を外縁部から手で剥がしてください。それから接着剤を中央側に向かって引っ張ったり、揺らしてください。

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - 返信

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - 返信

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - 返信

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - 返信

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - 返信

    • 必要であれば、プラスチックカードを使用して、底部に残っている細長い接着剤を切断することができます。

    • コンデンサのリード線または電源の背面の露出したはんだ接合部に触れないように十分注意してください(赤色の枠内)。

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - 返信

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - 返信

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - 返信

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - 返信

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - 返信

    • ディスプレイの取り扱いには非常に注意してください。大きくて重いガラス製です。 ディスプレイには壊れやすいエッジがあります。 エッジでディスプレイを持ち上げないでください。

    • ディスプレイをフレームから持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。 ディスプレイの表面を平らで柔らかい表面上に置きます。

    • あるいは片側ずつゆっくり持ち上げて、残りの接着剤を剥がさなければならない場合があります。


    • ディスプレイパネルを交換する場合は、古いパネルから新しいパネルに追加でコンポーネントを移す必要があります。 古いディスプレイと交換用ディスプレイの背面を見比べてください。 新しいディスプレイには搭載されていない全てのケーブル、センサーとケーブル、フォーム製緩衝材の有無に注意してください。

      • 接着テープの下にワイヤーやケーブルがある場合は、必ずテープを先に外します。

      • ケーブルがシャーシに接着されている場合は、加熱されたiOpenerまたはヘアドライヤーを使用して接着剤を最初に柔らかくします。 ケーブルの下にある開口ピックをスライドさせて緩めます。 繊細なコネクタを直接引っ張らないでください。

      • フォーム製クッションピースの下にある開口部のピックをスライドさせてディスプレイから分離し、ゆっくりと引き出します。 新しいディスプレイに再度取り付けるには、両面テープが必要な場合があります。

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - 返信

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?




    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - 返信

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!


    simon kennedy - 返信

    • ヒンジを自由に動かすと、iMacはバランスを失い、作業が難しくなります。 修理はiMacを設置して完了することができますが、iMacサービスのウェッジを使用すれば、より迅速かつ簡単に修理できます。


    • 10.0 mmのT10ネジを2本取り外します。

    If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

    johann beda - 返信

    • ロジックボード上のソケットから左のスピーカーケーブルを抜きます。 ソケットからまっすぐ引き抜いてください。

    • ハードディスクドライブとロジックボード間の隙間からケーブルを外します。

    • ハードディスクドライブとロジックボードの間隔がスピーカーケーブルのために狭すぎる場合は、スピーカーケーブルを取り外して、ケーブルを所定の位置に置きます。

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

    • 電源装置の背面にあるはんだ接合部に触れないように注意してください。 コンデンサには、危険なショックを与えるほど十分に充電されている場合があります。

    • スパッジャーを使用して、ロジックボード上のソケットから電源ボタンコネクタを取り外します。

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - 返信

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - 返信

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - 返信

    • 電源ボタンのケーブルが露出するまで(約0.5 インチ=1.27cm)、左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げます。


    • 電源ボタンケーブルを、左のスピーカーの溝からゆっくりと外します。


    • 左のスピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。

    • ハードディスクドライブとロジックボードの間隔が狭すぎてスピーカーケーブルを先に取り外すことができない場合は、スピーカーを取り外すときにスピーカーケーブルを静かに引き抜きます。

      • スピーカーの端を引きながらコネクタの端を押し、ケーブルをハードディスクドライブの右のブラケットの下に通します。

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - 返信

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    • SATAデータ/電源ケーブルをまっすぐ上に引っ張り、ドライブから接続を外します。


    • 左側ハードドライブブラケットをリアケースに固定している7.3 mm T10ネジを2本外します。

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - 返信

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - 返信

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    lamajr - 返信

    • ハードドライブと左側ハードドライブブラケットを一緒に持ちます。

    • リアケースから左側ケースを上に傾けて、アセンブリを左側にスライドさせます。

    • ハードドライブを取り外し、左側ハードドライブブラケットをiMacから取り外します。

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - 返信

    • 左側のハードドライブブラケットを取り出します。

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

    • 電源で作業するときは、コンデンサのリードや電源の背面のはんだ接合部に触れないよう十分注意してください。 ボードの端だけを取り扱ってください。

    • 電源の制御ケーブルを電源から切り離します。

    I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

    MrSchaeffer - 返信

    I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

    jimboom006 - 返信

    I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

    Joseph Ashe - 返信

    • 背面ケースに電源を固定している以下の4本のねじを取り外します。

      • 23.7 mm T10トルクスネジー2本

      • 7.3 mm T10トルクスネジー2本

    In the iMac I just bought (2016), these were not T10. I believe they are T9. Can anyone confirm?

    Morgan Crossley - 返信

    Regarding the screws on the power supply board (step 35), I can confirm these are not T10 screws as shown in the guide. In my Late 2015 Retina 5k model, the screws are T8. Morgan mentioned T9 and depending on your T9 driver, it may just barely fit but can easily slip and strip the screw. A T8 driver goes deeper in and holds the screw properly.

    smudge -

    My late 2015 model has these as T8 screws.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

    Late 2015- T8 as well!! Check out this Powerbook Medic teardown video as a cross reference guide!!


    lamajr - 返信

    • 電源をケースから取り外さないでください。2本のケーブルでロジックボードに接続されています。

    • 電源ボードをケースの左端に向かって動かし、ロジックボードのくぼみから離します


    • DC電源ケーブルコネクタのタブを押し、ロジックボードの背面にあるソケットからまっすぐ引き出します。

    Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

    Manuel Collazo - 返信

    Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

    David Zemsky - 返信

    Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

    P. Hisada - 返信

    This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

    Anthony Zimmerman - 返信

    • コンデンサのリード線や電源装置の背面の露出したはんだ接合部には触れないよう十分注意してください。 ボードの端だけを取り扱ってください。

    • メールボックスを開くのと同じように、電源装置の上部を手前にひっくり返して、ACインレットケーブルのコネクタを確認します。

    • ACインレットケーブルコネクタを外します。

    To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

    Dan H - 返信

    • 10.0 mmのT10ネジを2本取り外します。


    • 右スピーカーを軽く右に軽く揺り動かし、ロジックボード上のケーブル接続にアクセスします。


    • スパッジャーを使用して、ロジックボード上のソケットから右のスピーカーケーブルのコネクタを緩めます。

    • コネクタを右に引っ張ってソケットから外します。


    • スピーカーをまっすぐ持ち上げ、iMacから取り外します。


    • スパッジャの先端を使用して、ファンケーブルのコネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから切り離します。


    • ファンを排気ダクトに接続している黒いテープを剥がします。

    • テープを排気ダクトの所定の位置に残し、ファンを解放するためにジョイントを露出する必要があります。


    • ファンをリアケースに固定している3本の12.4 mm T10ネジを外します。


    • iMacからファンを取り外します。

    Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

    Walter Hayden - 返信

    • スパージャのフラットエンドを使用して、4つのアンテナコネクタのそれぞれをAirMac / Bluetoothカードから切り離します。

    • ケーブルを再接続するときは、各コネクタの元の位置に注意してください。カードの左から右に向かって、アンテナは次の順序で接続されます。

      • 一番左

      • 右上

      • 右下

    My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

    Greg Freeman - 返信

    My iMac also same with Greg mentioned. need to T5 torx driver. A1419. Late 2015, Korean Version.

    Joseph Yang - 返信

    • これは簡単に壊れる可能性のある繊細な接続です。

    • iSightカメラケーブルの金属製保持ブラケットを持ち上げます。

    • カメラケーブルコネクタをソケットからiMacの上部にまっすぐ引きます。

    During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

    Tony Ross - 返信

    • スパージャのフラットエンドを使用して、ヘッドフォンジャックケーブルコネクタをロジックボード上のソケットから外します。

    • ケーブルを静かに押し出します。


    • ロジックボードの前面から次のネジを外します。

      • 23.7 mm T10ネジ 2本

      • 7.4 mmのT10ネジ 4本

      • 20.8 mm T25スペーサスねじ 1個

      • T10キャプティブスクリュー 1本

        • このネジはロジックボードの穴の下にあります。 固定ドライバまたはiFixitドライバキットから60 mmの延長が必要です。

    The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

    MrSchaeffer - 返信

    On my late 2015 there is another T10 (approx 16 mm long) on the lower edge slightly left of the hole in the logic board giving a total of 4 screws along the bottom edge.

    Konrad Skeri Ekblad - 返信

    • ハードディスクのSATAケーブルはまだ取り外せませんが、ロジックボードを取り外す際に邪魔になるでしょう。

    • 右側のハードドライブブラケットからケーブルとコネクタを引っ張ります。ケーブルをデバイス本体の右側、排気ポートの邪魔にならない位置へ寄せます。


    • ヒートシンク排気ダクトの上部から2本の5.7 mm T10ネジを取り外します。


    • ロジックボードを少し傾けます。

    • ロジックボードをまっすぐ上に持ち上げ、iMacから取り出します。 リア・ケースの内側に取り付けられているネジの柱にひっかからないように注意してください。


    • iMacを組み立て直すときは、外部I/Oポートを正しく調整するように十分注意してください。 ロジックボードは、すべてのネジで固定しても曲がっていることがあります。

    • USBフラッシュドライブまたはイーサネットケーブルを使用して、ロジックボードがねじ込まれている間、ロジックボードが正しく装着されていることを確認できます。

    To help me line up the IO ports, I filled all the USB ports on the back with thumb drives before I screwed the Logic board back down. Worked like a charm!

    Alex Grayson - 返信

    • SATA電源ケーブルの端子を引き上げ取り外します。

    • SATAデータケーブルの端子を持ち上げ外します。

    • 邪魔にならないようにまた傷つかないようにSATAケーブルをロジックボードから取り除きます。

    Where is this cable sold

    mert - 返信

    • ロジックボードにSSDを固定している、一個の5.3mm T9ねじを外します。

    What type och screw is this? I just need the measurements, is it a standard M-size screw?

    Peter - 返信

    Where can we buy and SSD like that?

    i found this one on amazon... it is not specified for imac ...


    Création site web http://www.bionique.net

    bioniqueultra - 返信

    I bought the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 5K iMac (late 2015). Worked like a charm without any hiccups; great vendor: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat...

    Shaheen Ghiassy - 返信

    • ソケットを壊さないように、SSDを過度に持ち上げないでください。

    • ロジックボードのソケットに刺さっている、SSDの反対側を少しだけ持ち上げて、まっすぐに引き抜いてください。

    • SSDを再び搭載するときには、ネジの取り付け位置が適切にあっていることを確認してください。

    this ssd is not for a late 2013!

    this is 2012 year

    cslbox - 返信

    What do you mean? I'm going to buy a ssd to add it in my imac 27 late 2013 the came without it.

    Which part I need?

    MrSchaeffer -

    I think what he meant to say is the SSD shown (Samsun) is for a late 2013. The 2014 iMac uses a Sandisk unit (see the 5k teardown).

    Ifixit have made the mistake of referencing the late 2013 iMac teardown photos here.

    Brent -

    Actually the picture show the late 2012 pcie connector. (8+18 pins)



    After late 2013, (21.5", 27" and 27" 5K) the connector has changed. (12+16 pins)



    (You can see the actual one here : iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Teardown)


    After late 2013, you can only place a MacBook Pro late 2013 and after ssd !!

    Cecil His Mahier -

    which ssd used in this tutorial ?

    where can I buy ?


    AlexFull - 返信

    I Use a little bit of glue to fix the ssd pcie to the logic board

    MrSchaeffer - 返信

    Which SSD is used in this tutorial?

    Lok - 返信

    Thanks Cecil His Mahier

    hope you are right

    i bought this type http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...

    to put it in iMac 27 late 2015

    hope it will work

    Fanny Augier - 返信

    Just wondering if the SSD worked with your Imac

    "i bought this type http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...

    Jack Watkins -

    yes this is the good one

    but now i plugged the ssd

    the imac don't want to start, power supply is ok ( i tested it ), but the LEDs of the logic board are all OFF

    can someone help me ? is my logic board dead or there is special move to do when you plug something ?

    Fanny Augier -

    For people knowledge :

    i have iMac 5k late 2015

    i put exactly this SSD on it :




    ( i bought it on market like eBay )

    Fanny Augier -

    i got iMac 5k late 2015

    i confirm the SSD you can see here is working : iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Teardown

    i buy it on eBay

    Fanny Augier -

    I purchased the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 2015 5K iMac from here: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat.... Worked like a charm on High Sierra with zero hiccups. Great vendor!

    (P.S: I’m not associated with the company in any way)

    Shaheen Ghiassy - 返信


デバイスの再組み立ての際には手順の逆を行なってください。また、ガラスの取り付けの際には接着ストリップ交換ガイド を参照してください。

112 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。



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Sam Lionheart

メンバー登録日: 2012年10月18日

340,930 ポイント



iFixit iFixit人のメンバー


114 メンバー


Does it mean that I can install Mavericks to the new hard drive rather than Yosemite for imac retina new model. I really dont like Yosemite.

ulas sunar - 返信


So i have maxed out version of 2014 iMac 5k with 3TB fusion drive. I am looking to replace above described SSD with crucial 920 gb ssd. Is there other brands of compatible ssd's you would recommend? Will this new ssd still act as fusion drive or can I install OS X separately on it?


romanvm - 返信

If I want to swap the fusion drive with a SSD, do I need to remove the SSD-part of the fusion drive as well or can it be left behind?

mhjvdven - 返信

Does anybody know if 5K Retina iMacs purchased *without* Fusion Drives come with SSD connectors inside?

loccie - 返信

Answering my own question: YES

loccie -

What type of the SSD is used for the imac 5K.

nuieskater - 返信

check my post. I only found used in ebay, and I am not sure about the amperage.

I also not mentioned that there are some 1tb that are larger than the smallers gb. But that seems be ok

Alber Einsten -

I just bought the late 2015 27 5k imac (fusion drive 1tb) and I intent to upgrade everything on it

since in the teardown we see this is the same ssd that was in the macbook pro retina 13" late 2013, and until 2015 macbook pro did not changed the ssd type... I looked for it on ebay, a lot of seller sell those apple used SSDs from some sellers include a Compatible list:

Mac Pro Late 2013 and newer

iMac Late 2013-

Mac mini 2014

Macbook Pro Late 2013-

MacBook Air 13 and 11" 2013-

size, pins, and voltage are always the same, but there is some variations in the Ampere spech. I tried find something about but I couldn't discovery if it will be relevant.

There are 2 and 4 lanes versions (4 is faster)

also there are samsung and sandisk options (any doubt abou the better?)

I ignored the amperage diference and bought one that is 2,5A (samsung MZ-JPU256T/0A6). the late 2015 came with a no specified manufacturer and no specs on it. I did right or a mistake?

Alber Einsten - 返信

Hello ....did you test it ? Works Ok on iMac 5K - Late 2015 - 17.1 ? Thank you !!!

ysaine -

I want to do the same thing, did this work for you?

michael -

Vey sorry for so late answer , I didn't saw this at the time. I was revising today the process and saw the question. It worked perfectly for me. You have of plenty options when installing the blade SSD, the better is also put a regular Sata SSD and have 2 SSDs. I also changed the i5 for a i7. It is a long time work but is not that hard, once you are opening the iMac worth change the processor. The used by apple in their upgrade option was the: i7 6700K 4.00 GHz Unlocked Quad Core Skylake Desktop Processor, Socket LGA 1151

Alber Einsten -

Hi, does it still work as a “fusion drive” or two separated drives?


SimonG80 -

Hi there. I’m planning to replace the blade ssd on my iMac 27” late 2015. May I know which SSD you’re using for purchase reference?

Thanks a lot.

Che FU Lin -

I replaced the HDD with a Samsung 850 Pro (late 2015 iMac). Removing the "fusion drive" was not necessary -- if you install OS X from scratch, you can configure the two drives to work in parallel.

Aleksi Asikainen - 返信

Thanks for answer my question, before ask :)

mralexanderclark75 -

Can i just replace only the moving hard drive and leave the solid state the mac came with, that would make the world easy.

maessttrro - 返信

can i buy brand new 2016 imac 5k 27" 3.2GHz Processor

1TB Storage (without fusion drive) and do this upgrade after???

mrmoraesgil - 返信

So - it's about an inch above the ports on the back - anybody want to try using a dremel to make the %#*@ door that should have been there in the first place? :)

szeglowski - 返信

I have a quick question, on the owc site they show you don't have to take the logic board out. You can actually replace the stock 7200 HD with a new bracket and a SSD, attach a heat sensor, plugin, and put screen back on.

Is that also a correct way to upgrade the system? I have a MK462/A1419 system that I want to replace the HD and add and SSD to the system. As a 2nd choice, am I able to add a SSD to the logic board that will now act as a fusion drive with the original HD in place? Thanks for all your help.

Anthony - 返信

I have a 2015 27'' retina with 256GB SSD and I want to put a 1 or 2TB SSD in. Do I need to do the full tear down, or can I just put it in place of where the HDD is in this demo?

intoximacated - 返信

To add an OMC 2TB SSD where the original HDD went requires changing out the cable, about a $30 part, but one that requires removing the main logic board. While there stuff in as big of a blade SSD as possible.

westwind -

Is it posible to use HDD and SSD without "fusion drive" functional? I have imac 5k with HDD only. But i want to add ssd as second drive. Thank you

Aleksey Kazakov - 返信


Is possible to add an SSD pci to iMac 5K 27" LATE 2015, which came without fusion drive?

I will have this connection on the motherboard?


Eugeniu Tambur - 返信

Same question?

michael -

Hello everyone, i want to know one thing about Imac 27" 5k table stand is openable or not....?

pabitra - 返信

I heard it's not. You have to choose the vesa mount option when you purchase.

dkhyun -

I have the iMac 27 5K late 2015 with 1TB Fusion drive. The SSD drive is 24GB and the hard drive is 1TB 7200rpm. Can the hard drive be change to a Samsung 1TB SSD drive or not? I have not seen anyone commenting on this. Everyone seems to want to upgrade the SSD drive instead. I think the hard drive would be the easiest thing to do. Someone please help. Thanks

Rolo Carba - 返信

I own a Late 2015 27” iMac 3.2 GHz Quad-core Intel Core i5 with Retina 5K display and 1 TB HDD. I find it slow and want to install a Fusion Drive.

Question: Is the internal SSD in the 2013 and later MacBook series, specifically, the Late 2013 15" MacBook Pro exactly the same as the blade style SSD in the Late 2015 iMac?

MacBook Pro Replacement Drives:


I ask because I would like to take the 500 GB blade style SSD out of my late 2013 15" MacBook Pro and use it in the 27" iMac. I will also replace the current 1 TB HDD in the iMac with this 6TB drive:

https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Toshiba/... Then I can configure both drives as big ass Fusion drive.

FYI: I plan to replace the current MacBook Pro drive with a 1 TB SSD:


michael - 返信

Hi guys, I'm Rik from Florence. Today I went to a apple reseller because my imac 5k 27 has only one 250gb ssd, without any other disk. They told me that my imac is not upgradable because inside there aren't any cable for an other disk. I asked if was possible to remove my ssd with other bigger but they said that maybe the ssd inside the imac is settled. Any other official upgrade on my imac is forbidden and will cause the warranty end. I think it's a shame. I paid more than 3000€ for an not upgradable computer??? ps. sorry for my poor english

ilminia - 返信

Okay, so the late 2015 (October) 1TB Fusion has a 24gb SSD and a 1TB HDD in combination - My understanding is that the earlier 1TB Fusion Drives were 128GB SSD + 1TB HDD - and were mounted separately. What I am not sure of is whether the tiny 24gb is mounted on the logic board like the larger ones, or mounted inside the larger disc like some of the Seagate SSHD hybrid drives. That is my first question.

As to the question of whether the sockets for SSD are still in place to add a SSD to the iMac units that only come with the larger HDD, I think that was answered yes above. Now about the iMacs that come with only small SSDs (256 or 512) is there an unused SATA connector on the logic board where you could add a SATA cable and install another disc (SSH or HDD)? I do know there are cables available if the socket is there.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a late 2015 unit and wonder whether I want to get one with the 1TB HDD and add two big SSDs or just pay the extra $500 to get the model with the 2TB Fusion?

Uncle Reggie - 返信

Hi Guys and SSD Experts .... :-)

I needa a hint from your end ... because I'm a little bit confused because most descriptions that I found are showing how to replace the internal HDD against a SSD.

I purchased a iMac 5k 27, with internal 256 SSD. from the Apple Store in 2015.

So it's a pure SSD Model (no Fusion Drive).

Now I would like to upgrade the 256 SSD with a larger 1 TB SSD.

My thought was that the iMac 5k SSD Version runs a normal 2,5 " SSD.

Is it possible to buy a normal 2,5 " SSD with 1 TB and to insert it at that place where normally the Fusion Drive is located?

Do I need any specific set of cables, etc because of an thermal sensor?

I prefer to runt he iMac with an larger internal SSD. So an external Thunderbolt SSD isn't my preferred option.

Thanks for any comments, support.

G. M. - 返信

You have a 2.5" SSD and not a blade SSD? If your iMac has a 2.5" SSD, just remove the screen, remove the left speaker for access to the left hard drive bracket, unscrew and remove the left hard drive bracket, unplug and remove the SSD and install the new one.

If however your iMac came with a blade SSD only, you can install a 3.5" HDD or 2.5" SSD, but you need a mount to fit the 2.5" SSD in the 3.5" HDD bracket, if there's even a bracket there at all. If not, find a creative way to keep in it place I guess...

You also need a specific SATA cable (see guide I linked below). Use it as a reference to see where the HDD/SSD is mounted and where the SATA cable needs to plug in (it's not a normal SATA cable). I was able to connect the it without removing the logic board, but it's not easy as the logic board is installed backside up. It needs to connect to both its on-board power connector and the on-board SATA slot:

iMac Intel 27インチ EMC 2546 SATA ケーブルの交換

mikai -

Another note: thermal sensor is not required for SSDs on systems using OS X El Capitan/Sierra. I installed an SSD without one. No fan throttling at all.

mikai -

imac 27" 5k ssd (sm0256g) replacement---My computer has Apple sm0256g ssd... Can I use Samsung 960 Evo M.2 500gb Sata3 Pcıe 3200/1800 Ssd Mz-V6e500bw instead? please help me.

mert - 返信

No, unfortunately. The proprietary Apple SSD has a unique slot configuration. It just simply won't fit. I've replaced the SSD of my iMac 27 5k and had to buy the SM0512G.

See the pictures below and look at the end of each. They are different.

960 EVO:




mikai -

Hi Mikai, where did you buy your SM0512G? Thank you!

Ernest -

@mikai thanks for advice. I can confirm satisfied. No special and expensive thermal sensor cable needed on my iMac 2015 Retina! I replaced HDD with a Samsung SSD under OS X El Capitan.

mappo - 返信

Okay. External SSD thunderbolt drive only for me.

Jim Hassinger - 返信

Hi there,

I would like to add a 256 GB PCIe SSD on my iMac 27 5k late 2015 which only has 1TB HDD. I read that it has the PCIe interface to install a blade SSD but I cannot find any on the Internet. Can someone please suggest me possible sellers (especially in Europe)?

Thanks in advance

Francesco - 返信

iMac 27 5k late 2015:

Forgive me if this was asked already — but if I want to switch from a 24gig ssd / 1tb hdd fusion configuration to a strictly ssd config, which PCIe SSD can I use? I wrote OWC to see if I can use any of their PCIe blades, but they wrote back that they don’t make one that works for this model — but now that I’m doing a little more digging it looks like I’m finding old eBay listings for the SM0512G that point to it being used in the Macbook Air line.

Anyone have luck with an OWC PCIe blade as their main drive? Any lucky with a Macbook Air SSD?

If I’m going to upgrade to a SSD, I want it to use the fastest connection possible so the 2.5 drive isn’t optimal.

Any help appreciated, have a great day.


Matt - 返信

I remove the fusion drive(24GB ssd blade and 1TB hdd) and added a 512MB ssd blade(MZ-JPV5120/0A4) and 1TB ssd(Samsung).

The blade is doing read 1800MB/s and write 1400MB/s so I am happy with the upgrade.

BUT when I check the system preference, NVMexpress option tells me that there is no hardware…

(when the fusion drive was installed, it showed properly 5GT/s and 4 Lane…)

Masao Tomogane - 返信

Can you tell me how to remove the 24GB ssd blade and install the fusion drive ?thank you very much.


Blank -

Can you tell me how to remove the 24GB ssd blade and how to install the fusion drive?Thank you very much.


Blank -

Not sure why the instructions call it adhesive, when it’s double sided tape. Calling it adhesive implies to me that it could be reheated to close things back up.

scottcaldshop - 返信

I’ve read that on High Sierra we can use N-941A adapter and Samsung blade drives in our iMacs 5K 2017

So Samsung M.2 Nvme 960 Evo through N-941A adapter should work.

Some reported nvme is seen on system as external drive and not bootable on beta High Sierra

Have anyone tested and can confirm?

kmosiej - 返信

All boot options must share the Main Drive format., My MacBook P booted of my SSD ext,

iMac stopped booting from same SSD at the last moment

During update the SSD was reformatted with the new APFS the fusion remained HFS

Bomb_The_Vatican -

Hi I have a Imac 27” 2015, 3.2Hz, with 1 tb 7200rpm drive. When I want to replace the 7200rpm spinning drive to SSD. Is there another ssd inside the Imac I need to look for also? I just want to replace the 7200rpm with the samsung evo 850. Do I need to replace any other hardrive inside the Imac?

Dave W - 返信

Depending on how your iMac was configured when you bought it, you may have both an SSD (shown in the guide you’re viewing now) and a standard spinny drive. If you’re looking to replace the spinny drive, the guide you want is this one.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi guys im thinking of upgrading my ssd blade . Ive been looking about and noticed the do a m.2 convertor Would this be possible to do and just buy a m.2 ssd ?. If not im looking into leaving that there and upgrading the hdd to Evo 850 ssd , Do i need the sensor kit , and i do need to un-pair the Fusion Drive. Thank you Guys

master.mark - 返信

For all: when swapping out either the blade or the HDD from a Fusion setup, you have to do a full backup to an external drive. Removing a drive will BREAK the Fusion drive like removing a drive in a RAID array.

After you upgrade, you have to re-create a fusion drive of the Blade and the spinner HDD. Google “do it yourself fusion drive” or search macsales.com (blog). After you build the new fusion drive, you can restore your backup to it (easy with CarbonCopyCloner, SuperDuper, etc.) You can even make a fusion of two SSDs.

Eriamjh 1138 - 返信



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