はじめに
Sony PlayStation 5 DualSenseコントローラー のトリガーアセンブリを交換する方法です。
このアセンブリにはトリガーとアダプティブレジスタンスモーターが含まれます。
注意： このガイドは、FCC IDが1で終わるDualSenseコントローラ用です。コントローラの裏面をご覧になり、モデルをご確認ください。A*** で終わる場合は、内部設計に違いがあります。
必要な工具と部品
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片手でコントローラーを掴んで、親指でトリガーを押し込んで下さい。
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もう片方の手で、スパッジャーの平らな方の先をL1ボタンとL2ボタンの間に差し込みます。
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スパッジャーで慎重にこじってL1ボタンをコントローラーから外しますが、指先をボタンに添えてどこかに飛んで行かないようにして下さい。
Tried prying from the front of the buttons as pictured and my spudger broke off in the gap. A video I watched showed them being pried off from the back (between the R1/R2 and L1/L2 buttons) which seemed much easier.
Agree with Lora's comment above. I was able to use an old credit card to take L1/R1 out this way. I pressed down the L2/R2 button to create space to work in, then came in from between L1/L2 and R1/R2. It's easy to pop one of the outer corners first then you can work the credit card around the top and the rest falls out.
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上記の手順と同じようにしてR1ボタンを外して下さい。
What I didn't see addressed anywhere (here or in other similar articles) is that replacement R1 / L1 buttons can be differ enough to be un-usable depending on which model your ps5 controller is. The ones I ordered don't fit and now I can't find a way to be sure I get the right ones because few know there's even a difference.
Did you already figured it out? The version the we need yo use?, We are in the same situation here.
Tried prying from the front of the buttons as pictured and my spudger broke off in the gap. A video I watched showed them being pried off from the back (between the R1/R2 and L1/L2 buttons) which seemed much easier.
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リアケースを外します。
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あるリビジョン版モデルによっては、リアケースは以前に取り外したバンパーの横に追加の2つのクリップで固定されています。リアケースが自然に開かない場合は、これらのクリップがあるかどうか確認してください。
There are four more clips/hooks hidden in the seams along the outer sides of the handles. If you pull open the controller as shown in this step, then you will shear off the two tiny clips which are right next to the R1 and L1 buttons.
Therefore, you should first release those clips by prying the seams open sideways.
I noticed this with the updated design of the controller, not sure whether the hooks are present on the first version.
The hooks are not critical for the integrity of the controller as the two halves are held together by the screws hidden under the buttons. The damage does show that the controller has been taken apart.
Thought I'd clarify: The clips next to the L1 and R1 are on the outer side from the L1 and R1 buttons, I'd suggest zooming in on the picture to see them. They're quite easy to break, but also easy to remove using the plastic spudger along the seam, bending the bottom cover outwards
I am still strugling to find the clips. Could someone point them out in the image with a screen shot or something like that.
I keep getting stuck at this step too with the new DualSense CFI-ZCT1WA revision. The top and bottom shells seem like they are fused together next to L1/R1 but I can't seem to be able to find where these hidden clips are located. My controller is still in warranty so I don't want to break them in case I can't fix my issue.
but also easy to remove using the plastic spudger along the seam, bending the bottom cover outwards
I tried this but it seems that the you need a lot of force and I ended up bending the tip of my spudger. Are you sure it's not the top cover that you need to pry away? The bottom cover has a ridge to make sure it's under the top cover so it's not easy to bend outwards.
@samomio I think there needs to be a step added for these new clips.
Ok, not seeing a lot of motion on this request, so I've uploaded photos of the hooks to imgur.
Here ya go: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5
This guide really needs an update on this. I had a really hard time getting the forward clips to release even after referring to the comments above. Pretty sure I broke them in the end. No big deal but would be great if the iFixit experts could work out a good method for releasing them.
I finally figure it out!!
The hidden clip is very tricky but once you understand how it works it is easy to remove.
Use Sean's picture: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5
What sean is showing, is actually the bottom shell of the seam.
To disassemble
1. Use the flat side of the spudger, pry the bottom seam OUTWARDS near the R1/L1 button hole.
2. (most important) While prying the bottom shell seam outwards, push your thumb on the upper shell and push outward as well (you can do this by applying pressure from the removed R1/L1 button hole towards the seam. And then it will disassemble automatically
And that's it!
updated instruction:
I finally figure it out!!
The hidden clip is very tricky but once you understand how it works it is easy to remove.
Use Sean's picture: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5
What sean is showing, is actually the bottom shell of the seam.
To disassemble
1. Use the flat side of the spudger, pry the bottom seam OUTWARDS near the R1/L1 button hole.
2. (most important) While prying the bottom shell seam outwards, hold your thumb on the upper shell as anchor and then use your other finger to pry the bottom edge of the controller up away from the shell. If you are doing the first step, then don't worry about breaking the clip, just force it open. And then it will disassemble automatically
And that's it!
Yes! Thanks a bunch Penn. That did the trick! Much appreciated
Sean -
I managed to do it just by pulling harder than what I was already doing. And I don't think I broke anything. So, for me at least, the technique described in this guide worked.
The video linked below clearly shows how to open the controllers with the extra clips near the L1/R1 areas.
See a video here by How To X on YouTube... https://youtu.be/djIvRoclr_E?si=dKFpQCZe...
I really struggled with releasing the rest of the back panel (close to the shoulder buttons.) What finally seemed to do the trick for me, was doing both sides at once with upward turning motion of the back panel with the shoulder buttons approximately at the axis. Trying to release just one side and then the other felt impossible without potentially breaking the case.
This was what did it for me
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この手順で使用する道具：Tweezers$4.99
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ピンセットもしくは指で、マザーボードからバッテリーの接続を外します。
Tweezers aren't gonna grip that the way you need.
For those having trouble using tweezers to pull out the connector, you can grab below the lip of the connector and use the controller as a lever to pull it up as seen here DualSense コントローラー v2 バッテリーの交換
This little trick helped me so much and I believe it should be shown on this guide as well.
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この手順で使用する道具：Tweezers$4.99
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下部マイクのリボンケーブルのプルタブを指またはピンセットでつかみ、マザーボードから取り外します。
These ribbon cables have small tabs on either side you can use to help pull out the cable. You can slightly pull up, alternating between the two sides, to slowly wiggle the connector out.
I tried to use metal tweezers to pull this out and absolutely shredded the ribbon in the process. It's just a microphone so I wouldn't expect it to matter but now none of the games get any input from the controller even though the controller works fine in the home menu 🥲
Probably just use your fingers if you have the dexterity for it.
As others have said, try to only remove the ribbon and not the white connector. I'd advise holding down the white connector with something (perhaps your prying tool or finger) as you pull the ribbon out gently with the tweezers.
Best to avoid pulling out the white connector if possible - but its not the end of the world if you do accidentally pull it out, as I did. You can put the connector back in but you need to be very precise with the alignment over the 6 pins it connects to on the circuit board. I had to use a magnifying glass and it took me a few attempts. -
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マザーボードからバッテリーのブラケットを持ち上げて取り出します。
Black and red wires fit neatly under the lower left and lower right arms of the battery bracket, to avoid potential damage when reconnecting the rear case.
This needs to be noted. Thanks!
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右側のトリガーアセンブリのリボンケーブルのプルタブをピンセットまたは指で摘み、引き上げてマザーボードから外します。
If your cables are blue and in a different position, don't sweat. It's all good. Just do the same as they do and if you feel it is necessary, label with a sharpie left and right on each cable. A simple L and R works for this case
Qbert 2030 - 返信
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右側のトリガーアセンブリのリボンケーブルのプルタブをピンセットまたは指で摘み、引き上げてトリガーアセンブリから取り外します。
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リボンケーブルを取り出します。
Depending on the revision of your controller, these ribbon cables may be slim and white and if you remove it completely, you might have to remove and tear down the trigger assembly to get the ribbon cable back in.
maybe I'm missing something but in this case it doesn't seem to me like these cables need to be outright removed.
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ピンセットや指を使って上部マイクリボンケーブルのプルタブをつかみ、引き上げてマザーボードから外します。
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フロントケースからJoystickを慎重に通してひき抜き、マザーボードを持ち上げて取り出します。
My motherboard wouldn't just lift right out. So I noticed there's also a pair of barely visible small black clips, one on each side of the motherboard, holding it down. One is right beside the battery connector and the other's directly across on the opposite side of the motherboard right beside the ribbon cable connector.
Such a good observation!
zidek22 -
That helped a lot. If you can push those tabs it comes out a lot easier. I used my tweezers to push the left one and then as others had said pushing on the joysticks from the front of the controller makes it much easier.
Fruke -
Just push on the sticks. Pops out like a charm, zero effort.
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プラスドライバーを使って、ライトガイドを固定している8.5mmのネジを2本外します。
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この手順で使用する道具：Tweezers$4.99
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ピンセットを使って、ミッドフレームからスピーカーを取り出します。
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ミッドフレームとマザーボードを慎重に持ち上げて、フロントケースから取り出します。
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再組み立ての際、 タッチパッドのリボンケーブルを、ミッドフレームの長方形の開口部に通して戻します。
Feed the ribbon cable back through the rectangular slot in the midframe during reassembly.
Thank you for catching this!
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ミッドフレームとマザーボードを裏返します。
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プラスドライバーを使って、ミッドフレームにトリガーアセンブリを固定している6.４mmネジを4本外します。
My controller doesn’t have these screws. Any idea how to release the trigger assemblies from the midframe?
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このデバイスを再組み立てするには、インストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？ベーシックなトラブルシューティングを試してみるか、DualSenseのアンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
このデバイスを再組み立てするには、インストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
e-wasteを処理する場合は、認可済みリサイクルセンターR2を通じて廃棄してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？ベーシックなトラブルシューティングを試してみるか、DualSenseのアンサーコミュニティを参照してください。
24 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
20 件のコメント
So after I completed this my L1 stopped working how do I fix that? Lol the L2 R1 and R2 work fine
i know this is pretty long after you posted but could you tell me where you found the spare part?
Christos -
Ali express has everything since after warranty sony won't even look at your machine. Even for profit. Usbc port on the controller has no strength and I've had 2 go and that was from gentle use when I only had one controller then the second one did it so I had to buy 2 at once.
How do I find these parts? I’ve looked online for ps5 trigger assemblies and I can’t find them.
hello. did you find the trigger spare part assemblies? I am also looking for it but unfortunately couldn't find them yet.
Also looking for the trigger assembly part, would assume since the author made a guide on how to replace they would know where to get the parts? Would appreciate a response from the author
hello. If you found the spare trigger asm. parts, can you also advice me? I am also searching but couldn't find them yet.
***I dont know if u are still looking for the triggers. I fond this: https://www.nevs-controller.de/ps5/adapt...
Dear Sam Omiotek, I really appreciate your explanation, it's really usefull. If you also know where can we find spare parts, can you please let us know? Thanks in advance
found this: https://www.nevs-controller.de/ps5/adapt...
My dog chewed up one of my PS5 controllers and the L2 trigger was jammed. With the help of this brilliant guide, and an electronics essentials kit, I disassembled the controller and filed down the chewed up sections. Now my controller is good as new and my girlfriend can continue playing Hogwarts Legacy. Thank you ifixit!
My controller is completely diffrent from these toutorials im seeing, i live in sweden is there a diference in the controller makings? Or has the latest gen of controllers changed since i this post was made
Alright its a new gen controller and the FCC ends with a A, is there no new tutorial for the controllers and i havent found any screws on the triggers that lets me disassemble the trigger. I think im &&^&@@.
Zippiach -
What do you do if the R2 trigger is jammed? I noticed that I broke the assembly cable of my R2 trigger and ordered one soon. I took out my broken cable but it's still registering that I'm pressing it. Need help on this one, Thank you so much!
I never would have thought to remove the L1 and R1 to get to the screws. Thank you!
I'm going to connect my logic analyzer to the usbc port so we can identify the pins that actually use data because there's no way it's using the full spec for data transfer for firmware. After certain updates your controller is a paperweight. I've repaired a few now and half of them have torn traces because like the hdmi port there isn't enough inherent mechanical strength like a traditional serial controller port. Funny how it's been the same 2 wire data protocol for 50 years yet the usb ports since they went from mini to micro breaks if you look at it. I install mini USB wherever I can.
I completed the replacement of the trigger assembly, but r2 does not register at all and r1 is constantly on. Tried with three different units and known good ribbon cables. Also tried in known good board and get the same issue. Any advice?
On the R2 button, check that the flexible cable has not been damaged. If it is, you will need a new flexible cable. Does the L2 button work? The solution might be that the flexible cable has not been properly inserted and is not sending input to the L2 and R2 buttons. As for the R1 button, check that the button has not been damaged; it's a possible explanation for why it remains pressed. Try cleaning the R1 button thoroughly, dirt and debris could be the cause trapping the button and preventing it from releasing. Let me know if you have resolved the issue.
I used this guide to replace a broken spring in the L2 trigger. It went pretty smoothly thanks to this info, and I actually had to do the whole thing twice. Once to first find the fault and put controller back, then a second time to install the spring again later. The spring replacement isn't explicitly covered, but I was able to wing it by looking at the remaining intact spring. The springs are hard to handle due to their small size and the degree of compression required for install.
Rohan Lowe - 返信
