はじめに
充電ポートとは、充電ケーブルがデバイスに電力を供給する接続ポイントにあります。デバイスのソフトウェア内の問題であるかどうか確認するため、 トラブルシューティング用ページを参照してください。
問題が実際にハードウェア内で起こっていることが確認できたら、このガイドに従って、充電ポートを交換してください。
Samsung Galaxy S9を開口すると、デバイスの防水防塵用シールにダメージを与えてしまいます。接着シールを交換しない場合、デバイスは通常通り機能しますが、防水機能を失っていますのでご注意ください。
必要な工具と部品
-
-
デバイスの電源を切ります。
-
温めたiOpenerをリアガラスの下に載せて、留められた接着剤を緩めます。温めたiOpenerを約2分間載せます。バックカバーを外すには、数回この手順を繰り返す必要があるかもしれません。
-
-
-
次の手順では、バックカバーに固定されている接着剤を切り込みます。
-
画像で示されたエリアの接着剤をスライスしてください。
-
多量の接着剤が使用されています
-
少量の接着剤が使用されています
-
このセリアの接着剤はスライスしたり、こじ開けないでください。指紋認証センサのフレックスケーブルが搭載されています。
I ran into a chunk of adhesive that was in the red zone right next to where the connector was. Be careful, cut slow, I managed to make it through my working my way through things that felt like foam.
-
-
-
バックカバー上に吸盤カップを押し込んで取り付けます。
-
バックカバーの下側端を吸盤カップで持ち上げて、バックカバーとフレームの間にわずかな隙間を作ります。
-
開口ピックを隙間に差し込み、下部の右側コーナーまでスライドします。
-
2枚目の開口ピックを差し込み下側左のコーナーにスライドします。
-
3枚目の開口ピックをデバイス本体下側の先端に差し込みます。この開口ピックはリアガラスの取り外し作業中、再装着するのを防ぐため、差し込んだ状態のままにします。
The manufacturer obviously doesn't want owners to replace the battery, or they would have a simple method like they did in the past !!! They would rather have you throw it away and replace the phone !!!!
Well. I guess so!
I was so looking forward to doing this.
What a shame this type of manufacturing occurs!
😭
From a do it yourself person.
-
-
-
-
NFCコイルアセンブリを取り外します。
This is not quite as easy as the simple statement “Remove the NFC coil assembly” would lead you to believe. The top and left side of the plastic bracket attached to the coil have tabs inserted into the frame of the phone and you can’t just pick the coil assembly up. It takes a bit of force, and I used a spudger to gently pry along the top from right to left to pop the tabs free, and then the tabs on the left came out more easily. Do not just pull on the coil and bend it up.
Yeah, for more detailed instructions, check the battery replacement guide and refer to steps 9 through 11.
-
-
-
マザーボードブラケットを取り外します。
My phone did not have a separate bracket covering the motherboard.
The NFC/wireless charging coil is adhered to the motherboard bracket, and in my case they both came off together.
Also, for safety, the battery connecter should be disconnected in this step rather than waiting until after removing the speaker cover/antenna assembly.
yeah, the coil assembly may take this off for you. pay attention!
-
-
-
スピーカーカバー/アンテナアセンブリを取り外します。
Forgot step to disconnect battery.
Hi Kara! If I remember correctly, we didn’t need to remove the battery. However, it’s been over a year, so I could definitely be wrong.
-
-
-
3本のケーブルの接続を外します。
-
交換用の充電ポートにブルーと白のケーブルがついていない場合は、古いボードから移植して、新しいものに接続してください。
Forgot step to remove logic board held by several connectors and one screw. Connect new charging port cable to mother board before putting it back together.
Could you point out to me where the logic board is? It’s possible we called it something else.
The board to the left of the battery the two cables connect to.
Kind of a big step to miss.
Oh, I think I get what y’all are pointing out.
1) We called the logic board the charging port board.
2) We did disconnect the two cables (the blue and white ones, right?) in the step above, as seen by the upper red rectangle. (Look at step #13)
3) I’m having trouble finding which screw we missed. Could you identify it a little better so I can fix the picture? (Look at step #12)
We might also have called the logic board the mother board, which you do not need to remove as long as you detach all of the cables.
Yes, logic board must be removed. It is what you called the motherboard. We had to remove the motherboard enough to be able to mate the charging port board to the motherboard multipin connection seen under the index finger in the photo for step 15.
I’m not sure if I can change the prerequisite guides now that this one has been published, but we do have a motherboard replacement guide here. It has detailed instructions on removing the motherboard/logic board.
We also had to remove the opposite ends of the blue and white cables from the charging port board since our replacement charging port board did not come with new cables.
Thanks! I’ll see if I can add that in.
Agree with the comment above - the daughter charging board does not include the blue and white wires. I just disconnected the wires from ends and left them in place, working the wires over the new charging board.
There is another connection that needs to be disconnected. In your photo above, if you look at the red box you marked to the left of the battery, you’ll see a ‘+’ on a small circle and a short strip of visible connector on the left side of the frame. This needs to be disconnected to remove and should be reconnected on the replacement board.
-
-
-
充電ポートボードを取り外します。
-
デバイスを再組み立てするには、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てするには、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
34 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
これらの翻訳者の方々は世界を修理する私たちのサポートをしてくれています。 あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
チーム
Cal Poly, Team S1-G6, White Winter 2019 Cal Poly, Team S1-G6, White Winter 2019人のメンバー
CPSU-WHITE-W19S1G6
4 メンバー
29のガイドは作成済み
8 件のコメント
Hi, does the screen need to be replaced once the charging port has been replaced?
Hi Elliot! If you replace your charging port, you will need to replace the back cover, but the screen should remain intact. It is very difficult to remove the back cover without breaking it (unless you have access to a heat gun), so if you’re thinking about replacing your charging port, you may want to get a new back cover ready beforehand. Good luck and Happy Fixing!
A lot of parts missing to this guide.
Hi there, is there anything you would recommending replacing/updating/upgrading while you have the phone disassembled? Thanks!
Callum Eve - 返信
This guide is decent, but it was not my primary reference for this task. IMO a better guide can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1NYvdkZ...
I think there’s a step missing between Step 13 and 14? Since there is a board either taken out or lifted on the left side? I lifted mine slightly to take out the white and blue wires as the gap was too small to pull them out. Still, thank you so much for making this graphical step-by-step instruction available for all, it’s the best the web has to offer! (: #respect
Very nice. I never use videos because I like to control my own rate, and its always nice to find a tech guide that explains things without over-explaining. Well done.
Nightmare. Impossible to get the back off so far. Being trying using the iOpener with hair dryer for last 1hr. No chance.
Chris Bunney - 返信
You’re right Chris. I’ve tried on 3 separate occasions now and haven’t been able to budge that back. All that has happened is the pick has taken a piece out of the glass back leaving a rough edge now.
grahamcatto - 返信
it was not easy but doable.
Clinton Stark - 返信
It’s difficult, but the trick I did to get it was to wrap the hot iOpener around a bottom corner, apply the suction cup, then I covered the opener and phone with a paper plate, better insulating the area. Then I set my blow dryer to high heat and low velocity and heated the area under the plate for about a minute. Right after turning off the blower, I took off the plate and pulled the suction cup with a cutter at hand. You’ll hear a bit of a cracking/popping noise when the adhesive is starting to give, just apply a little more force and push the cutter at the seam. This method worked great for me, so good luck and just keep at it — you’ve got this!
Nicholas Weger - 返信
I used nearly boiling water in a storage zip bag on the phone for 10 minutes. I can’t really recommend this method, but thankfully the bag did not leak - an iOpener is probably a much better way to go. Regardless, the bag covered the entire back of the phone, and the phone was too hot to hold, but I still could not get the glass to budge with the suction cup after struggling with it for about an hour and multiple reheats. I ended up epoxying a 2”x2” square of PVC board to the bottom of the cover and built a relatively complex fixture that pulled on the PVC with the turn of a screw while it held down the frame by the edges. After heating the edges up again It did lift the glass enough to get a pick underneath it, but it cracked the glass and it was a pain to slide a pick around the edge while the glass was cracking all the way around. Once I finally got all the glass off, I spent the next 30 minutes (which is what this entire process is supposed to take… what a joke!) cleaning the adhesive off the phone.
drbenton815 - 返信
Heavy Duty Heat Gun from popular discount tool store for the win!
Jesse Meyer - 返信
Well, it is not obvious how to do this. I have no iOpener, but a heat cushion for remedy hurting muscles and sometimes a backpain. It is filled with grain of some kind and it is to be heated in a microwave oven for about 3 minutes. After that I enveloped this cushion round the phone and brewed myself a cup of tea. After ten miutes the phone was warm (almost hot) and I was able to press the tip of a small (very small) knife above the charging port into the connection between the phone body and the backplate. A very small opening emerged slowly (this is the critical point in this process) and I was able to start using the iFixit opening picks. It became obvious to me that the opening picks are too blunt to achive this with them. But after starting carefully with the (very small and very sharp) knife, everything went straight forward. Thou I had to give the phone a second heatpush with my heat cushion before the backplate came loose.
borutberg - 返信
I used my 3D printer heat bed and heated it to 90 Celcius to succeed.
gahute - 返信
It took about 3 minutes on my 90 C printbed to get the first pick in. If the suction cup gives up before the adhesive does, try using some Isopropyl alcohol to clean the back of the phone, and it should stick better. Also, don't apply heat to the screen, just in case that wasn't clear.
Evan Newman -
Used a corn bag (usually used for sore muscles) and incased the phone. It was hot to the touch, but it did the trick. Also needed a knife to have a small enough edge to start prying the back off and get the adhesive to finally pop.
Laurie Hallberg - 返信
Don't Forget Step 0! Turn the phone Off and remove the SIM card tray. just to be safe, I'd recommend making a full backup of your phone onto a micro SD card in case the worst should happen. also, make sure anyone who needs to contact you knows you aren't currently available at your phone number.
Evan Newman - 返信
We went for a hairdryer. Put it on hot, low blow and put the head right up to the corner. Took maybe 5 minutes per corner!
Robert Tomohamat - 返信
Removing the back wasn't too difficult on my phone: several rounds of heating with the iOpener, applying gentle pressure with the suction cup, and eventually a corner lifted up without much force and I could easily slide a pick in. From there it was very straightforward and I had no trouble sliding the picks around and removing the back. The battery removal was much harder in comparison (especially as the iOpener burst when reheating in the microwave for the battery, despite following the time instructions).
Less eWaste - 返信