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はじめに

このガイドを使って、Samsung Galaxy S8 のI/Oドターボードを交換しましょう。 ドーターボードを交換するコンポーネントにはダメージの入ったUSB-C コネクターやマイクが含まれているはずです。

このガイドにはリアガラスカバーを取り外す作業が含まれます。デバイスのバックカバーに再装着するための交換用接着剤が必要です。

デバイスを解体するに、バッテリー残量を25%以下まで放電してしてください。アクシデントでバッテリーに穴を開けてしまうと、引火する恐れがあります。作業前に放電することで、この可能性が低くなります。

ビデオの概要

  1. 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。 iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。
    • 電子レンジに付着している汚れがiOpenerに付いてしまうことがあるので、使用前に電子レンジの底をきれいに拭き取ってください。

    • iOpenerを電子レンジ中央に置きます。

    • 回転型の電子レンジ:iOpenerが電子レンジのターンテーブルで回転しているか確認してください。iOpenerが作動中に留まってしまうと、熱しすぎや焦げてしまいます。

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 返信

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 返信

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 返信

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 返信

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 返信

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 返信

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - 返信

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - 返信

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - 返信

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - 返信

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - 返信

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - 返信

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - 返信

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - 返信

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - 返信

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - 返信

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - 返信

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - 返信

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - 返信

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - 返信

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - 返信

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - 返信

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - 返信

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - 返信

  2. iOpenerを30秒温めます。
    • iOpenerを30秒温めます。

    • 修理作業中はiOpenerが冷めてしまいますので、使用毎に電子レンジに30秒入れて温めてからご利用ください。

    • 作業中、iOpenerを温めすぎないようにご注意ください。温めすぎるとiOpenerを破裂させてしまうことがあります。

    • 膨らんでいる状態のiOpenerは絶対に触らないでください。

    • 適切に温められたiOpenerは約10分間、温かい状態を保ちます。

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 返信

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 返信

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 返信

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 返信

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 返信

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 返信

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 返信

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 返信

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 返信

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 返信

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 返信

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - 返信

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - 返信

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - 返信

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - 返信

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - 返信

  3. 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。
    • 電子レンジからiOpenerを取り出します。iOpenerの中央は熱くなっているため、両端の平面になっている部分を持ってください。

    • iOpenerは大変熱くなっていることがあります。必要であれば、オーブン用のミトンカバーをご利用ください。

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 返信

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - 返信

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - 返信

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - 返信

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - 返信

  4. デバイスを開口すると防水機能を失ってしまいます。作業に進む前に、交換用の接着剤を準備するか、作業終了後、接着剤を交換せずにデバイスを組み立てる場合は、防水機能を失っていることを留意してください。
    • デバイスを開口すると防水機能を失ってしまいます。作業に進む前に、交換用の接着剤を準備するか、作業終了後、接着剤を交換せずにデバイスを組み立てる場合は、防水機能を失っていることを留意してください。

    • S8の長辺側端の上に、温めたiOpenerを約2分間のせます。

    • デバイス本体が温まるまで、複数回にわたりiOpenerを温める作業を繰り返す必要があります。加熱しすぎないために、iOpenerの使用方法に従ってください。

    • ヘアドライヤー、ヒートガン、ホットプレートなどでも対応できますが、デバイスをオーバーヒートしないようにご注意ください。OLEDディスプレイと内蔵バッテリーは熱によるダメージに弱い性質があります。

    • 圧着剤が柔らかくなるのを待っている間に、次の手順に目を通して、どこから開口するかヒントを得てください。

    What type of adhesive should be used to seal? Or better said, what would you recommend.

    Ion Ion - 返信

    I’d recommend precut adhesive designed for the rear cover. If that’s not available, thin, hi-bond double sided tape like 1 mm wide Tesa 61395 tape will work well.

    Adam O'Camb -

    Yes, different microwaves have different power levels (e.g., wattage) so one microwave may explode the iOpener after 31 seconds of heating whereas another microwave will barely warm it. It would be helpful to have a more precise target temperature. My microwave is fairly weak so I’m heating it for seven seconds for every two minutes against the phone. In theory, this should slowly add more heat than is dissipated into the phone and surrounding atmosphere.

    Brett Stime - 返信

  5. 次の手順では、リアガラスパネルのエッジに沿って圧着剤に切り込みを入れていきます。 リアガラスの圧着剤は一番目の画像にあるように装着されています。
    • 次の手順では、リアガラスパネルのエッジに沿って圧着剤に切り込みを入れていきます。

    • リアガラスの圧着剤は一番目の画像にあるように装着されています。

    • デバイスの外部から切り込みをいれていく前に、圧着剤の詳細を念頭においてください。

    • 圧着剤はたっぷりと装着されています。

    • 圧着剤は薄めです。

    • この部分はこじ開けないでください。指紋認証センサーを保護するためです。

    Go clockwise (or counter-clockwise) around the border to avoid causing extra stress on the back. The bottom has a lot more adhesive than you think, towards the top-center.

    Michael M - 返信

  6. バックパネルを触って温まっていれば、カーブ状の端を避けたデバイスの端に近い位置に吸盤カップをしっかりと装着します。 吸盤カップはガラスのカーブした部分には装着できません。
    • バックパネルを触って温まっていれば、カーブ状の端を避けたデバイスの端に近い位置に吸盤カップをしっかりと装着します。

    • 吸盤カップはガラスのカーブした部分には装着できません。

    • デバイスのバックカバーがひび割れている場合、吸盤カップが上手く装着できません。強力なテープで持ち上げてみるか、吸盤カップ上に強力ボンドをつけてから次の作業に移ります。

    • 吸盤カップを引き上げて、ハルベルトスパッジャーもしくは開口ピックをリアガラスの下に差し込みます。

    • カーブ状になったガラスのため、スパッジャーをデバイスに水平状態で挿入するよりも、少し上に押し上げる状態で差し込みます。

    We can't seem to get anything between the edges even after heating the back panel. Any tips?

    Megan Kennington - 返信

    Hi Megan, unfortunately the adhesive is super tough on this one. I’d recommend carefully continuing to apply heat, very gradually so that you don’t accidentally overheat the battery. Eventually you should be able to get a little gap with the suction handle.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I’ve been attempting to get the adhesive to loosen for four hours now. Exactly how much time is this supposed to take? The pictures makes it look like it should be easy. The adhesive still hasn’t budged and I’m beyond frustrated.

    Lori Lucas - 返信

    Hi Lori, sorry to hear the adhesive is being extra stubborn! If reheating and reapplying the iOpener isn’t working, you can try heating the edge with a hairdryer or heat gun. That way you can get more heat onto the edge faster, but be very careful not to overheat the battery inside.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used a stanley knife - very carefully, after trying for several hours to get the adhesive to loosen. I bought another back cover with adhesive for the assmbley, which is the best option in my opinion. Just be careful not the scratch the case of the phone, and be prepared for the back glass cover to break when removing it.

    James wright - 返信

    The manufacturers really want to make this impossible, huh… I’ve gone 3 years without ever cracking this phone and end up cracking the corner of the back trying to prise it open. Probably should’ve gotten a heat gun too. This is super tight.

    Benjamin Chaim - 返信

    I am currently working on this. I have heated the phone to just barely to hot to hold. No matter how many times I've done this and pulled up with a suction cup I cannot get an edge to lift.

    Being that this is my second phone repair does anyone have advice on this? I've watched several YouTube videos and it looks so easy.

    DAVID LAWRENCE - 返信

    I suggest you try to lift on the middle of an edge using the thinnest spudger you have. also as the edge is curved remember to insert it so to follow the curve. Hopes it helps

    Cajuteq -

    Our issue was that a small gap would open when using the iOpener, but not large enough to get spudger or opening picks in there (also tried hair dryer but same result). Luckily as a guitar player I had some very thin nylon picks that we were able to get in there, which opened up a large enough gap to get the spudger and opening picks in. From there, we were able to heat the other sides and guide the spudger around the entire edge to get the back glass off.

    First we used a Dunlop nylon .38 mm guitar pick, then a .60 mm pick, and that allowed us to get the spudger in.

    Dan Coleman - 返信

    This is by far the hardest part of any tutorial that requires you to open the Samsung. The iOpener is totally useless on my opinion (it doesn’t get warm enough). What I did instead is use a hairdryer but it took me time before I could get the adhesive soft enough. Especially since I was not able to measure the temperature of the phone will warming it. Also I think that the halberd is not thin enough so I used a radiology sheet (don’t know the right word in English) to get into the phone and it was much more effective and time saving. Thank you for the tutorial and good luck !

    Thomas Alliot - 返信

    Use a utility knife blade to work around the edges. Careful not to pry on the blade since you risk cracking the back

    Derek Gibson - 返信

    I bought a back glass replacement kit with the battery kit since mine was cracked already. I used both iOpeners to uniformly heat the whole back along both long edges. I microwaved each pack twice over 10 mins. 5 mins apply, microwave, 5 minutes apply. That worked!

    William Mellema - 返信

    Similar to other posts, this appeared simpler. I have a couple of tube socks filled with rice that we use a lot for a sore back. Put in microwave for 5 minutes and an amazing heat pack. So I thought I would try this instead of the iOpener as it just was not getting the phone warm enough. Wrapped the phone in the riced-filled-tube sock for a couple of minutes, to the point where I could at least pick it up and hold it. Also, I have the full IFIXIT kit, so I pulled out the jimmy. Viola. Got right in and then allowed me to use the halberd and picks to finish it off.

    kendrickcc - 返信

    I was able to do this with the iOpener warming pad by microwaving for the suggested 30secs then leaving it on for 10 mins. repeated this process 2 more times for a total of 3 times @ 30 mins and used the suction tool and the picks to get it open. There is a considerable amount of adhesive on the tops and bottoms of the phone. So consider warming the whole phone before doing it.

    Note: if you already have a cracked back panel (like me) prior to starting the process, consider getting the replacement as the already cracked panel will crack even more as you are cutting away at the adhesive. Goodluck!

    Harry Williams - 返信

    After over an hour of trying to use heat and the suction tool loosen the adhesive and try to get an opening on one of the edges, I used the blue spudger to see if it would slip thru the edge and it did. I was able to loosen the majority of the back glass but ended up getting excited and rushing and cracked the top corner. I was able to complete the battery replacement and use the cracked back glass. I’m going to order a replacement for that and that should be easier. Lesson to be learned, if any part of the back glass is getting a little tougher to loosen, hit it with heat again just to be safe. The rest of the replacement we pretty straight forward.

    MJH - 返信

    The spudger provided in ifixit repair tool kit is not the same as the one used in this guide and can not be used in the same way as the spudger used in this guide. So I am pretty much winging it on the most critical point of this disassembly. This is extremely frustrating.

    Brent Neilson - 返信

  7. ツールがしっかりとガラスの内部に差し込めたら、iOpenerを再度温めて圧着剤をもう一度柔らかくします。
    • ツールがしっかりとガラスの内部に差し込めたら、iOpenerを再度温めて圧着剤をもう一度柔らかくします。

    svmesung is onoff and

    moo rayner - 返信

  8. 開口ピックやハルバード型スパッジャーの鋭利な先端をデバイスのサイドに差し込み、圧着剤を切り込みながらスライドします。 ツールが接合部分から飛び出さないように、丁寧にゆっくりとスライドします。切り込みが困難になってきたら、iOpenerを再度温めて、もう一度デバイス上に載せます。
    • 開口ピックやハルバード型スパッジャーの鋭利な先端をデバイスのサイドに差し込み、圧着剤を切り込みながらスライドします。

    • ツールが接合部分から飛び出さないように、丁寧にゆっくりとスライドします。切り込みが困難になってきたら、iOpenerを再度温めて、もう一度デバイス上に載せます。

  9. 残り3面の接着剤についても、装着箇所を温めて切り込む作業を繰り返します。 次のサイドに作業を移す前に、開口ピックを両側に差し込んだままにして、接着剤が再装着するのを防ぎます。 次のサイドに作業を移す前に、開口ピックを両側に差し込んだままにして、接着剤が再装着するのを防ぎます。
    • 残り3面の接着剤についても、装着箇所を温めて切り込む作業を繰り返します。

    • 次のサイドに作業を移す前に、開口ピックを両側に差し込んだままにして、接着剤が再装着するのを防ぎます。

    Petite erreur: le guide dit iPhone au lieu de S7 :)

    Nicolas Duthilleul - 返信

    Bonjour Nicolas ! Merci pour la remarque ;-) Nous l’avons prise en compte et corrigé la traduction. La prochaine fois, n’hésitez pas à corriger directement en cliquant sur le bouton Traduire en haut à droite de l’étape.

    Claire Rapp -

  10. 指紋認証センサーケーブルがメインカメラ付近のリアガラスとデバイス本体を繋げています。ケーブルは大変短く、リアガラスを取り外す際に接続を外してください。 ガラスを持ち上げたら、内部を覗いてオレンジのケーブルとブルーのコネクターの接続が外れているか確認してください。
    • 指紋認証センサーケーブルがメインカメラ付近のリアガラスとデバイス本体を繋げています。ケーブルは大変短く、リアガラスを取り外す際に接続を外してください。

    • ガラスを持ち上げたら、内部を覗いてオレンジのケーブルとブルーのコネクターの接続が外れているか確認してください。

    • 開口ピックを使って、残りの圧着剤を綺麗に取り除き、デバイス本体を少し開きます。

    • 指紋認証センサーケーブルが引っ掛かったり、突っ張った状態でデバイス本体がこれ以上開かない場合は、次の手順に進む前にスパッジャーの先端でコネクターの接続を外してください。

    • 再組み立ての際は、指紋センサーケーブルに再接続するため、最初に、ケーブルコネクタがソケットに完全に合わさるまで、バックカバーを傾けて位置を調節します。 次に、スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、コネクターをまっすぐ下に押して、カチッと装着の音が聞こえるまでゆっくりと所定の位置にはめ込みます。

    • 本体からガラスを取り出します。

    For reassembly, if the fingerprint scanner is removed from the back cover: it’s much easier to place the fingerprint scanner in the small compartment on the back of the phone, connect it and then finally put the replacement back cover on. The adhesive on the inside of the back cover will get connect to the fingerprint scanner and hold it tightly.

    Brian Hoffmann - 返信

    The NFC antenna and coil assembly might get stick to the back cover due to adhesive spreads while trying to pry the back cover to open the phone. Take a look inside to ensure the assebly has not got sticked. If so, try using a credit card like plastic to get it peeled of from back cover without breaking the assembly always paying attention to the fingerprint sensor as well.

    dcode - 返信

  11. リアガラスを交換する前に、古い圧着剤をデバイス本体から剥がしてください。
    • リアガラスを交換する前に、古い圧着剤をデバイス本体から剥がしてください。

    • ピンセットを使って、デバイスの筐体に残っている接着剤を取り除きます。 次に、高濃度のイソプロピルアルコール(90%以上)と糸くずの出ないマジックワイプなどで接着面を拭き、新しい接着剤の表面を準備します。

    • 新しいリアガラスの接着剤のシールを剥がし、一辺のガラス端を筐体とぴったりと合わせて筐体内にしっかりと押し込みます。

    • このガイドに従って、古いバックカバーを再装着するか、接着剤なしでバックカバーを取り付けます。

    • 新しい接着剤を装着した後、デバイスを密封する前に、必ず電源を入れて修理の結果をテストしてください。

    • 必要に応じて、接着剤を交換せずにリアカバーを再装着することができます。 リアカバーが水平に閉まらない可能性のある大きな接着剤の塊があれば取り除いてください。 確認が終わったら、リアカバーを温めてし、圧力をかけてしっかりと固定します。 防水性能はありませんが、デバイスを固定するのには十分な強度があります。

    • また、カメラのベゼルを新しいパーツに移植する必要があることがあります。 その場合は、カメラのベゼル交換ガイドに従ってください。

    Bonjour,

    Vous parlez d’ajouter de l’adhésif, comment et où le trouve-t-on cet adhésif ?

    Difficile à appliquer ?

    Cordialement,

    Stéphane

    Steph D - 返信

    Mille excuses, je viens de voir les “adhesive strips” :)

    Steph D - 返信

    I broke the rear glass trying to get all the adhesive off! Be very careful!!

    jimhunz - 返信

    Be careful with the NFC Antenna/Charging Coil Assembly. It’s covered in a black wrapping that can look like adhesive. Don’t scratch too hard with the spudger, the wrapping will come off!

    Michael M - 返信

    Hello, I appreciate that tuto, very detailed for a somewhat subtle job . Is it possible to use one of the 7000 or 8000 glues in place of the adhesive Stickers ? Thanks

    Isaac OLEG - 返信

  12. 3.7 mmネジを11本外します。
    • 3.7 mmネジを11本外します。

    Are all the screws the same size? I do not have a way to organize every little screw and part of this phone.

    Gavin Clark - 返信

    Hi Gavin, all the screws in this step are 3.7 mm long, so you can safely swap these screws with one another.

    Adam O'Camb -

  13. NFCアンテナと充電コイルアセンブリを外します。 NFCアンテナと充電コイルアセンブリを外します。
    • NFCアンテナと充電コイルアセンブリを外します。

    I had to pry off the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly from the back cover. The adhesive probably spread a little bit while prying around the phone sticking some part of the NCF antenna and coild assembly sticked to the back cover. I had to use a credit card like pice of plastic to get it unsticked from the back cover without bearking it.

    dcode - 返信

    This doesn’t really cover the last step of removing the NFC antenna/charge coil pad from the upper removable frame segment. Those two components separate and the new one adheres back onto that upper frame section. While its fairly self explanatory, it would be nice to have an illustration of that separation.

    JPagel - 返信

  14. 3.7 mmプラスネジ #000を3本外します。
    • 3.7 mmプラスネジ #000を3本外します。

  15. スピーカーアセンブリを取り出します。
    • スピーカーアセンブリを取り出します。

  16. SIMカード用の開口ツールをデバイス上部端の左側にあるホールに差し込みます。 トレイを取り出すため、押し込みます。 デバイス本体からSIMカードトレイを取り出します。
    • SIMカード用の開口ツールをデバイス上部端の左側にあるホールに差し込みます。

    • トレイを取り出すため、押し込みます。

    • デバイス本体からSIMカードトレイを取り出します。

    • SIMカードを再装着する際は、トレイに対して正しい方向で取り付けているか確認してください。

    Vielen Dank!

    Ist die SIM+SDcard-Tray vom Samsung Galaxy S8 und Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus gleich?

    Bzw. kann ich eine SIM+SDcard-Tray von einem Samsung Galaxy S8 in einem Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus verwenden?

    Photelegy - 返信

  17. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。 バッテリーは次の手順では表示されませんが、このガイドでは取り外しの必要はありません。バッテリーの接続を外すだけで作業は終了で、次の手順に移ってください。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターの接続を外します。

    • バッテリーは次の手順では表示されませんが、このガイドでは取り外しの必要はありません。バッテリーの接続を外すだけで作業は終了で、次の手順に移ってください。

    I noticed that due to the no lead soldering used today, even a 24 pins socket for a connector can be stripped if no prying tool is used to disconnect it. Soldering back implies having a binocular or good microscope and is not really easy

    Isaac OLEG - 返信

  18. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、センサーアレイのコネクターの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、センサーアレイのコネクターの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、センサーアレイのコネクターの接続を外します。

  19. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、正面向きカメラのコネクターの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、正面向きカメラのコネクターの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、正面向きカメラのコネクターの接続を外します。

  20. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイとデジタイザーコネクターの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイとデジタイザーコネクターの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイとデジタイザーコネクターの接続を外します。

  21. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ドーターボードとマザーボードを繋ぐ2本のアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ドーターボードとマザーボードを繋ぐ2本のアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ドーターボードとマザーボードを繋ぐ2本のアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ドーターボードとマザーボードを繋ぐ2本のアンテナケーブルの接続を外します。

  22. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードとドーターボードを繋ぐアンテナリボンケーブルの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードとドーターボードを繋ぐアンテナリボンケーブルの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードとドーターボードを繋ぐアンテナリボンケーブルの接続を外します。

  23. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードを持ち上げてドーターボードから接続を外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードを持ち上げてドーターボードから接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードを持ち上げてドーターボードから接続を外します。

  24. デバイス本体からマザーボードを取り出します。 バッテリーを取り出さない方法をとる場合は、バッテリーコネクターに引っかけないようにご注意ください。
    • デバイス本体からマザーボードを取り出します。

    • バッテリーを取り出さない方法をとる場合は、バッテリーコネクターに引っかけないようにご注意ください。

    Comment enlever l'appareil photo arrière ?

    Easy Repair - 返信

    Gracias nueva mente por sus aportaciones. Son lo máximo.

    NELSON ESTREMERA - 返信

  25. 3 mm  #000プラスネジを1本外します。
    • 3 mm #000プラスネジを1本外します。

  26. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ヘッドホンジャックのコネクターの接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、ヘッドホンジャックのコネクターの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ヘッドホンジャックのコネクターの接続を外します。

  27. スパッジャーの先端をヘッドホンジャックとボードの間、リボンケーブルに一番近いジャックの角に向けて差し込みます。 スパッジャーを使って丁寧にボードからヘッドホンジャックをこじ開けます。 ヘッドホンジャックを取り出します。
    • スパッジャーの先端をヘッドホンジャックとボードの間、リボンケーブルに一番近いジャックの角に向けて差し込みます。

    • スパッジャーを使って丁寧にボードからヘッドホンジャックをこじ開けます。

    • ヘッドホンジャックを取り出します。

  28. ピンセットを使って2つのアンテナケーブルをバッテリーコンパートメントの隣のスロットから引き出します。 ピンセットを使って2つのアンテナケーブルをバッテリーコンパートメントの隣のスロットから引き出します。 ピンセットを使って2つのアンテナケーブルをバッテリーコンパートメントの隣のスロットから引き出します。
    • ピンセットを使って2つのアンテナケーブルをバッテリーコンパートメントの隣のスロットから引き出します。

  29. ピンセットを使って、スロットからアンテナケーブルを取り出します。 ピンセットを使って、スロットからアンテナケーブルを取り出します。 ピンセットを使って、スロットからアンテナケーブルを取り出します。
    • ピンセットを使って、スロットからアンテナケーブルを取り出します。

  30. 3 mm #000プラスネジを5本外します。
    • 3 mm #000プラスネジを5本外します。

  31. デバイス底側に向けてマザーボードコネクターを丁寧に折り曲げて、アンテナリボンケーブルへの作業の邪魔にならない位置に固定します。 デバイス底側に向けてマザーボードコネクターを丁寧に折り曲げて、アンテナリボンケーブルへの作業の邪魔にならない位置に固定します。
    • デバイス底側に向けてマザーボードコネクターを丁寧に折り曲げて、アンテナリボンケーブルへの作業の邪魔にならない位置に固定します。

  32. ピンセットを使って、丁寧にアンテナリボンケーブルをケースサイドから取り出します。 ピンセットを使って、丁寧にアンテナリボンケーブルをケースサイドから取り出します。
    • ピンセットを使って、丁寧にアンテナリボンケーブルをケースサイドから取り出します。

  33. ピンセットを使って、ドーターボードをケースから持ち上げて、取り出します。 ピンセットを使って、ドーターボードをケースから持ち上げて、取り出します。
    • ピンセットを使って、ドーターボードをケースから持ち上げて、取り出します。

終わりに

接着剤を再塗布した後は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って再組み立ての作業を進めてください。

41 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

en jp

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! あなたも貢献してみませんか?
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Adam O'Camb

メンバー登録日: 2015年04月11日

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8 件のコメント

Something you should add is that the battery temperature sensor is actually on the wireless charging coil. Unless you screw that part on, adding a new daughter board and plugging it in will result in the phone thinking the battery temperature is too low and thus it won't charge

Chinook Piroh - 返信

Hi i just change the motherboard and the battery is new the display show ( ! ) is not working. Can you help me to solve the problem. Thank you

kee nguang Tan - 返信

Step 22 does not apply to the Samsung galaxy s8 SM-G950F, the daughterboard is different and does not have that connector for anyone trying to source one !

Aidan Mongan - 返信

sm-g930F, daughter board does not have the 3mm screws .it seems to use an elastic at each en to hold in place. has anyone successfully replaced this daughterboard?

Andrew Murray28/09/2020

Andrew Murray - 返信

That battery temperature thing really confused me while testing as I put things back together. Makes sense it worked fine when I put back together after I'd had enough.

I found the finger print reader easier to put on after removing it from the case. My finger print reader didn't work after I put it back together. But started working the next day.

I found it easier to connect the motherboard to the daughter board when the daughter board is fixed in, then you just hold the motherboard vertically, click them together and tilt the motherboard back into place while using something to poke the flap connectors out the way.

Those two wires/ arieals? They loop under the motherboard for when the speaker goes back on.

As you're testing as you put things back together, the volume buttons only work when everything is screwed back in. I've come across this before on other samsung phones, killed me the first time trying to figure it out!!

Matthew Bolt - 返信

Hi, I followed all the steps and managed to get the daughterboard in place but then there weren’t any instructions on how to reassemble it other than to do the steps in reverse…I ran into difficulties with the proximity sensor and can’t get it back in place.

When I plugged in the usb cable it flashed that it was charging for a second then stopped which makes me think the problem might be with the battery even though it was flagging a problem with moisture in the charging port originally.

Thanks.

Seamus Enright - 返信

Thank you so much for this guide. I needed around 5-6 hours to replace the daughterboard and assemble all parts of the phone but it was totaly worth the time. It took a while untill i got the right level of heat on the iOpener to get the glue soft enough to open the backcover. It needed some time to get the figerprintsensor connected with the phone as well. But for the first time that i tried (and success) to repair a Phone this effort of time was quite ok. I learned a lot, had a good time and most important my phone works for 100% again.

Thanks again and keep doing that awesome work!

Billy Hill - 返信

Where is this temp thing ? I just replaced my daughter board and I’m getting a notification about it. How do I fix it? Also my phone won’t make a call now. jspurgo@yahoo.com

james spurgeon - 返信

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