はじめに
The machine in question is from Magimix. The other available version (Krups) is very similar and this guide should be applicable to those.
First of all consider your machine’s warranty (usually 2 years), after (partial) disassembly you’re not eligible for warranty anymore.
Unplug the machine and find a workplace that you’re not afraid to scratch, which I found out the hard way.
必要な工具と部品
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Remove all water from the system. (From the Nespresso manual.)
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image 2: exploded view of the machine. Source: buyspares.com
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Pull straight forward with a fair amount of force.
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Once you hear a click, pull the part straight down. This should go easilly.
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Use a T20 torx bit (star-shaped). A screwdriver that fits should work fine.
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Close the cup-holder firmly.
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Photos 2 and 3, push the screwdriver in and wiggle a bit to undo the clips. There's a total of 4 clips.
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Make sure the notch lines up.
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Pull the cover away. Once there's a little room, move your fingers up a bit and pull on the sides.
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Unplug the device first! Remove ground, live and neutral wires.
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Remove the whole wire from its slot.
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Photo 1: Using leverage, pull up.
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Photo 2: unclip the two clips on the inside of the cover.
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Photo 3: turn over and lift the cover off.
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Push on the assembly, front to back, to free up the lever seats. Then pull them out.
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These clips are tricky to remove. The plastic rectangles housing the wire clips are part of the U-pipe. Bear this in mind when detaching the U-pipe from the two other (pump and boiler) pipes - which have cone shaped flanges; easy to push U-pipe faces onto, hard to detach.
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Using the perspective of Photo1 for reference, for ease of working, ensure the background is down towards the floor, and ensure the metal pipe is braced, directly or via the boiler resting on a non-slip surface like a rubber mat or carpeted floor. Set-up the equivalent if working from the pump end of the U-pipe.
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Push a 2.5mm thick pointed tool (rod or flat) into the wire loop that emerges from the centre-bottom of the plastic face. Do not make the loop emerge farther, but you can widen it <1mm with a suitable width screwdriver.
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Left and right shoulders of the wire clip are to be pulled apart as far as the plastic face will allow. Start by inserting (and leaving in place) similar 2.5mm-3.5mm thick pointed/tapered tools between the outside edge of the plastic face and the exposed wire ends. Insert near each shoulder.
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With the wire clip being held apart in three places, check that the wire in the centre of the plastic face is not still hugging the pipe but is just proud of the rim of the cone-flange. Another pointed tool may be needed to manipulate the rest of the wire over the edge of the cone-flange.
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With the perspective of photo1 (or equivalent view from the pump), use a finger either side of the pipe to push the plastic face away from the boiler or away from the pump (towards the floor if positioned as advised earlier). The plastic face may need rocking during this process to manipulate any remaining wire over the last sub-mm of flange.
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The joint should disconnect gracefully. If the joint does not disconnect, examine the centre hole of the plastic face again, checking where the wire is fouling the cone-flange. Reposition the three other pointed tools -previously left in place holding the wire apart- as necessary.
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The 'O' ring each end of the plastic U-pipe will be easily accessible once the joint is apart. The inner diameter is approx 3mm. Outer diameter is approx 5mm ('O' ring is 1mm thick).
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Photo 1 and 2, note the tapered edges, these hold the wire clip in place. Reinstallation is simple, just push the on again.
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This was as far as I was able to go. In my case the part shown on the right in photo 3 was leaking in between the metal and plastic. Sadly it couldn't be disassembled any further.
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Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. The next steps are some points of note.
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Photo 1: reverse of step 11: The easiest way to reassemble the side is to lay it flat and lower the inner body onto the side.
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Photo 2: reverse of step 11: Make sure the black line goes over the white one.
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Fit the rubber collar back over the pump.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order, please take note of steps 19 and 20.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order, please take note of steps 19 and 20.
69 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
22 件のコメント
I wanted to diagnose a leak so I took it apart to about step 10, set the water tank in place, plugged it in, and started a cycle. The heater got hot (the large metal assembly at the top) and when the pump came water gushed out of the joint with the tricky spring clip, the rear one that connects to the metal pipe leading into the heater.
I disassembled the clip (unplugged first and let it cool off) and found that the O-ring inside the joint was split. Now to find a replacement.
Hi Leon, thanks for taking the time to make this guide.
I followed to step 11. Then I noticed the boiler had lots of white limescale streaks on it, indicating a leak. I think this is the part you diagnosed as leaking for you. I’ve decided to give up unfortunately.
Cheers John
John Moule - 返信
There's another stage you can go! The plastic moulding the pod fits into can be removed from the boiler casting. You need to rotate the moulding about 15° clockwise on the boiler using a bit of leverage between the trunions and the moulding both sides. It's rather stiff but once turned it releases a sort of bayonet fitting retaining the moulding to the boiler.
Inside there's another ‘O' ring, that can be suspect for a leak, and a plastic sleeve behind it.
Thank you! Great addition.
do you know the size of the o-ring?
