はじめに
このガイドを参照して、お持ちのMacBook Proのヒートシンクを交換しましょう。ヒートシンクを再度取り付ける前に、新しい放熱グリスを塗布することが必要です。
必要な工具と部品
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下部ケースとベントの間に指を差し込み、下部ケースと上部ケースを固定している二つのクリップを外しながら持ち上げます。
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下部ケースを取り外します。
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バッテリーコネクタに取り付けられているプラスチックのタブを掴み、デバイス前端に向けて引っ張ります。 Late 2011モデルでは、バッテリコネクタにタブが付いておらず、差し込み口をマザーボードの内部に取り付けるだけです。そのため、外すにはプラグをまっすぐ持ち上げます。
This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.
Is this step really necessary? It is not part of the instructions how to replace the HDD in Apple's User Manual of the 2011 17" MBP.
As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.
Mine also, and looks as if removing connector could damage motherboard.
Stephen -
The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to Mercedes-Benz tri-star)
It has a tab which I pulled straight up
The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.
* There is no tab on the A1297 (late 2011) model's battery connector. Be careful with the connector, it chips off the edges easily! Otherwise the same as bhodges2 & Stephen's notes.
** (Pleas also include the exact Model and Part numbers like P/N: MD311D/A; Mod.: A1297 in the comments and notes for your MBP)
Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.
I replaced the display on my late 2011 model and noticed that it was quite different than the tutorial given here so I detailed all the differences to help others with late-2011 models on my blog: http://johnfixesstuff.blogspot.com/2014/...
jmueller -
With some dexterity and carefulness, the MagSafe could be removed from its place without the need to remove the whole logic board!
Same here, I used a head-band light to see it and got it done without removing anything but the battery connection, the charging port and the display data cable. Then I had to do it again because amazone sent me the wrong charging port, the board has different width between screw holes, and on closer look, different components soldered on, also. AND, one is labeled 2008, the other 2009… make sure you get the correct one, the other ( “wrong”? ) might work, but I’m not risking it! So why does the 2008 fit in my 17” macbook pro(5,2) mid-2009 and the one labeled 2009 does not fit ? It is what it is…
The battery on my 17” mid-2010 (MC024LL/A -A1297 ) is held by 3 specialty screws CR-V1 (3-wings similar to Mercedes-Benz tri-star)
It has a tab which I pulled straight up
The connector to the motherboard came away easily by pulling toward the front edge.
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから右側ファンのコネクタを持ち上げます。
Needs a better photo to show how the plug is able to come off the socket vertically. In particular, the underside of the plug should be shown.
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右側ファンをロジックボードに固定している3.1mmプラスネジを3本外します。
... And the fan fixing screws on my 2009 MBP were *smaller* that the size implied by the tool requirements for this project. I initially tried a Phillips 00 screwdriver but it nearly stripped the screw head. It was necessary to switch to a Phillips 000 bit to actually get two of the screws to move.
RichardL -
my mid 2010 mbp had Torx 7
Mine stripped and now I can't get it out, Phillips #00 is too large
Not a big deal maybe but I have an Early 2011 and it doesn’t have the plastic tab on the battery connector (as if it were a Late 2011) AND it uses torx screws. So if you’re planning to tear into a 2011, get a torx screwdriver—there’s a chance you might need it even if you don’t have a Late 2011
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから左側ファンコネクタを持ち上げます。
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スパッジャーの先端や指の爪を使って、キーボードバックライトのリボンケーブル上の固定フラップを跳ね上げます。
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ソケットからキーボードバックライトのリボンケーブルを引き抜きます。
On my early 2011 Macbook Pro unibody 17” - there is another small cable to disconnect between this, the keyboard backlight ribbon cable and the optical drive cable. Not sure what it’s for, but thought to mention is. It is small metal plug and socket and says “AC” on it.
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、小さなプラスチック製のケーブル リテーナーをカメラ ケーブル ソケットから押し離し、カメラ ケーブルを取り外すのに十分なスペースを確保します。
Bit of a levering horizontally. Remove the carbon fibre patterned tape off the top of the connector to expose the connector then slide (break the adhesive bond) on the small oblong black plastic passed, towards the optical drive module. The connector can then be disengaged. It's quite difficult to unlatch the connector! Take extreme care
not on my 17” late 2011
On my late 2011 MBP there are two connectors at this place: One big connector like the silver one shown on the fotos (but in my case it is black), and the tiny one as discribed in the comment from anon 10/14/2017). In contrast to the fotos, this tiny connector is on the opposite side of the big one, on the edge close to the right fan. To disconnect this connector, follow the instructions from anon 10/14/2017.
The cable going to the big connector is in my case a wide black ribbon cable running diagonically over the optical drive. To remove the connector of this cable from the socket, pry it upwards carefully with your fingernails or a spudger.
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カメラケーブルを光学ドライブの開口部に向かって引っ張って、ロジックボードから外します。
This step and the previous one (plastic retainer) were very different on my logic board. It's an early 2011, 17" that I bought second hand. I'm wondering if the logic board was previously replaced.
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スパッジャーの先端や指の爪を使って、IRセンサーリボンケーブルソケット上の固定フラップを跳ね上げます。
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ソケットからIRセンサーリボンケーブルを引き抜きます。
The IR sensor cable also connects the Hall Effect switch that detects whether the lid is closed or open (and thus shuts off the display, puts the computer to sleep, wakes it up, etc.) to the logic board.
How do I know? I re-pasted my late 2011 17" MBP and forgot to reconnect it. The machine would not sleep automatically when the lid was closed anymore. Re-connecting the cable fixed it.
thanks for the info !!!! i got the same problem with sleep because the cable was not properly connected
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次の 4 つのネジを取り外します。
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3.5 mm プラスねじ 2 本
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1.6 mm プラスねじ 2 本
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両方のコネクタ シールドをロジック ボードから取り外します。
On my early 2011 laptop, the screws on the left hand shield were T6 screws. The others were Phillips head.
The same applies to the late 2011 model.
on my early 2011 model it seems that on the left hand shield (with the Torx screws) the track pad connector is stuck to the underside of the connector. It lifted off the logic board when I tried to remove the shield and I am leaving it like that until I can manage to access it better - maybe when the logic board is out.
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指の爪を使って、キーボード リボン ケーブル ソケットの固定フラップをめくります。
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キーボード リボン ケーブルをソケットから引き抜きます。
Thanks for the great guide!
Tip for re-seating the keyboard cable: put a piece of sticky tape on, fold over at the top end, re-seat the connector (carefully!) with a spudger and (gently!) pull the tape 'over' the connector on the logic board until you feel it nudges in fully. Notice the emphasis on "carefully" and "gently"... :)
LeonSteyns - 返信
Thanks for this manual! I used it to replace the keyboard. I would not recommend it as an easy job and it is not described on Ifixit for unknown reasons. But I did it and everytinhg worked fine. 2 remarks about the conncetion for the keyboard. In my Macbook 17 Pro (mid 2009) there is a litlle lever that clamps the keyboard 'cable'. You can get it out easily (I did that too because I did not see it then), but to reassemble it it is better to uplift the little lever and then move the 'cable' in with sticky tape (thanks for that tip!)
I had to redo it 3 times to get it working. With the lever up and then clamping the 'cable' by pushing it down it worked AND it solved the power button problem. Please be carefull as said in the manual, it is all very delicate!
And for replacing the keyboard; prepare yourself for a lot of tiny screws! (some of them are stuck and had to be removed with force, be warned!)
Another tip
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爪を使って、エクスプレス カード ケージのリボン ケーブル ソケットの固定フラップをめくります。
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エクスプレス カード ケージのリボン ケーブルをソケットから引き抜きます。
It might be easier to remove the ExpressCard ribbon cable in Step 18 by removing the Hard Drive cable first...use your judgment.
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スパッジャーの先端や指の爪を使って、バッテリーインジケーターケーブルソケット上の固定フラップを跳ね上げます。
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ソケットからバッテリーインジケーターリボンケーブルを引き抜きます。
When reassembling, slide the ribbon cable underneath the connector then lock it into place.
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ディスプレイ データ ケーブル リテーナに取り付けられている黒いプラスチック製のフラップを持ち上げ、MacBook の DC 入力側に向けて回転させます。
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ディスプレイ データ ケーブルをソケットから引き抜きます。
Be SUPER EXTRA CAREFUL when connecting this cable back!!! Use a magnifying glass or headset to see what you are doing.
When I plugged it in the first time (finished the rest of the process and restarted the mac) I got green lines all over my screen…
I replugged it a total of 4 times to get it right even cleaned it with alcohol. Now everything is working, but I freaked out a bit :)
I would describe the removal as “sliding back towards the corner". “Pulling out", to me, implies pulling up away from the board.
When reassembling, slide the cable underneath the connector. It doesn’t snap on.
This is the trickiest step in this whole process, both detaching and reattaching. I’ve been through this logic board repair scenario with my Early 2011 about 4x now, and if, when you reassemble, you’re still having problems with your display of any sort, this is your number 1 achilles heel is this connector getting dirty (use high purity over 90% isopropyl alcohol often found at drug stores next to the regular 70% stuff for cleaning) or not seating properly. I have broken off the connector bracket mount that goes over the top but was able to use pure silicone to safely reattach it. Don’t break that top bracket off sliding this puppy out; it’s a very dicey situation!
I had no idea what "toward the DC-in side" meant. "DC-in" refers to the Magsafe connector/port in the corner of the machine (upper right when the machine is facedown with lower case removed).
The plastic flap and its little metal bracket broke off from the cable when I tried to rotate it out of the socket. Will this cause problems? I'm assuming it was just a handle. I was successfully able to slide the cable out, and then back into the socket on reassembly, even after the bracket/tab broke off.
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ロジック ボードと DC-In ボードを上部ケースに固定している次の 8 本のネジを取り外します。
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6 本の 3.2 mm プラス ネジ
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7.6 mm プラスねじ 2 本
The Six 3.2mm screws can in some cases be torx instead of phillips
Finntastic - 返信
I've got a great idea for keeping the tiny screws safe and also labelled up e.g. these 6+2 screws belong to the logic board - simply use 'Post-It' sticky note upside down on your desk and use the sticky bit to keep the screws from rolling around getting themselves lost :-)
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オプティカル ドライブに最も近い側からロジック ボード アセンブリを持ち上げ、上部ケースから取り外します。
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ポートと DC-In ボードを慎重に上部ケースの側面から引き離し、ロジック ボード アセンブリを取り外します。ケーブルが引っかかる可能性があることに注意してください。
When lifting the logic board be careful! The rubber foam around the microphone may have adhered the microphone to the uppercases grill work so as you lift you could rip the connector from the ribbon cable.
* Take a small spatula and thought the fan opening carefully dislodge the microphone from the grill as you lift the logic board.
* To locate the microphone note on the next slide the small unit between the fingers of the hands.
Attach the DC connector with screws first when reassembling.
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ロジックボードにヒートシンクを固定して、いる8.3 mmプラスネジを8本外します。
My heat sink did not look like this. It did not have the ninety degree bend to the left at the bottom. It was just "T" shaped, not like the "J" shape depicted here. Does this mean the logic board was previously replaced? (Early 2011, 17-inch, 2.2GHz)
No, I think that it is just different on the early 2011 model, mine is the same. There are lots of small and larger differences between this guide and our model. There are only 6 screws,
Lami -
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ヒートシンクのサーマルセンサーケーブルを指とスパッジャーの先端で摘みます。
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スパッジャーを上向きにして、サーマルセンサーのコネクタを、ロジックボードのソケットから持ち上げます。
My mid-2009 MBP didn’t have a connector (socket is on the board, but there’s no cable to be plugged into it). Found in an Apple technician manual a mention that some versions of the MBP don’t have the thermal sensor, so apparently that’s okay.
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ロジックボードからヒートシンクを取り出します。
Bonjour. Peut-on remplacer la pâte thermique d’origine par des pads thermiques au graphite? Merci
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デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
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10 件のコメント
After compleating this repair , my mac had the normal hard drive noise then a chime did not even grey screen . almost instantly I smelt fire and saw smoke pouring out of the case.. maac was on battery at the time .. I opened it up and disconected the battery and then I saw the video display cable (Step 21 ) it had glowing embers on the tape and tottally melted one side of it ... the connector to the logic board has black marks , but i do not know if the damage is extened to the logic board or if I can get away with a new dispay data cable , dont even know where to source one here in NZ .. any help would be great
kevinleroy - 返信
I completed this guide. When I finished the macbook would not turn on => PANIC
I went over and the problem was the keyboard cable. The Step 17 is a little difficult in reverse. Pay special atention at the correct position of the keyboard ribbon cable.
It was a little scare. Otherwise all perfect! Thank you very much!
Successfully changed the thermal paste by following this guide. My MacBook Pro had some issues after I put it back together because of loose and improperly seated cables. In my case, the display cable wasn't seated properly and the IR-sensor cable was loose. So if your machine doesn't turn on, or something seems to be working incorrectly, it's definitely worth double checking the cables.
did changing the thermal paste lower your temps? what was it before, what is it now? thanks for sharing.
B S -
Yes B S, the temps will be lower. Apple is known to put only a tiny amount or bad quality thermal paste on their machines, so even is a Mac is brand new, temperatures will be better if the thermal paste is replaced. I have replaced thermal paste on numerous computers and have never regretted it :)
Tsaku -
Très bon guide pour changer la pâte thermique de mon MacBook Pro Late 2011 qui commençait à trop chauffer.
Cela permet de se rendre compte qu’après un changement de carte mère effectué par Apple, la moitié des vis est mal serrée, il y a 10 fois trop de pâte thermique sur le processeur et le chip graphique au point que ça a coulé sur les petits composants sur le côté des puces.
Merci
Dommage :/ Au prix qu’Apple demande, le travail devrait pourtant être bien fait… Content que vous ayez pu régler votre problème, un changement de pâte thermique est toujours une bonne idée :)
Tsaku -
Thank you for this guide, smooth and easy !!!
important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/
mysterioes - 返信
Same issue with me. After reassembling my 13-inch and my 17-inch, one of the screws are sticking out ever so slightly. Very annoying, especially since I scratch whatever surface I'm on now.
Kyle Spadaro -
Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.
The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.
I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.
- carefully undo all connections and 2 screws
- remove the assembly and flip it over
- again carefully remove the shielding tape
- undo 3 tiny screws
- gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)
- reverse process with replacement card.
image can be found here:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...
Remon - 返信
It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.
Human - 返信
3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.
-I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well
2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends
1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE
These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.
scottbernardis - 返信
I printed out the image above and taped each screw to the photo as I removed each one, just to make sure I put them in the right location.
Grace Morris - 返信
This is a brilliant suggestion! I did this for all the steps that involved removing screws, numbered the sheets, and that made it very easy to put it all back together in reverse. Thanks!
Steve Adamczyk -
Be sure to use Loctite on the screws when re-attaching the bottom of the computer. The screws can and will fall out once they have been removed for repairs if you do not put Loctite on them when you reuse them. Otherwise, purchase new screws before repairing the computer as the new screws come with Loctite material on them. (I have personal experience with this problem.)
johnpartridge - 返信
Be sure NOT to Buy this Battery from iFixit. I bought it from eustore.ifixit.com and the Condition of Battery is : Service Battery ,
from the &&^&^$^ first day.
Till today my battery Cycle Count is: 80.
I’ve tried everything as: Battery Calibration, resetting the SMC, PRAM, reinstalling the battery,
and Service Battery warning still there.
Just DO NOT BUY crappy, trash from here.
I have very bad experience.
Doruntin Koci - 返信
Hi Doruntin,
we’re more than sorry to hear about your bad experience.
I’ll inform our customer service team who’ll reach out to you and offer either a replacement or reimbursement.
If ever you’d need assistance again, please feel free to directly write to eustore@ifixit.com, as comments are not regularly checked for service issues.
I’m confident that we’ll find the solution that suits you best!
Sandra Hiller -
PLEASE OBSERVE: The image of the left speaker used is NOT for a 2011 model. A 17inch MacBook Pro A1297 - LEFT SPEAKER + MICROPHONE - 2011 has IDENTIFYING NUMBER: Apple Part #:922-9821, 922-9822. And its COMPATIBILITY: 17 inch MacBook Pro Unibody A1297 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.2 i7 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.3 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.4 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.5 i7
kenneth krabat - 返信