はじめに

このガイドを使って基板を交換します。この作業では基板に接続された全てのコンポーネントを外さなければなりません。

底ケースを固定している以下の10本のネジを外します。
  • 底ケースを固定している以下の10本のネジを外します。

    • 13.5(14.1)mm プラスネジー3本

    • 3 mm プラスネジー7本

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will - 返信

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke -

I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

xtophr -

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie - 返信

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds -

I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

Now I use these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

Richard Sato -

I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

Roscoe -

I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

jelimoore -

Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

maccentric -

I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

Nils -

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger - 返信

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick - 返信

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl -

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero - 返信

To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

1982sketcher -

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK - 返信

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful - 返信

These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

Thanks!

Marcos - 返信

During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

kusi - 返信

There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

Print the repair guide.

Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

Same thing with any part you remove.

splashzoneent - 返信

Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

Tommy Kedar -

Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

nclarke36 -

Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

SOME TRICKS -

1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

cheers- Durango CO!

Dgodrummer - 返信

Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

kevicoll409 - 返信

Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

Danno - 返信

Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?

If so, what is the best way to do this?

Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I’m assuming the aluminum case isn’t going to work.

Sibyl Smith - 返信

I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

Pete Banks - 返信

両手を使用して排気口の近くから底ケースを持ち上げて、上部ケースに固定している2本のクリップを外します。
  • 両手を使用して排気口の近くから底ケースを持ち上げて、上部ケースに固定している2本のクリップを外します。

  • 底ケースを取り外して脇に置きます。

After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

Januar Wiyogo - 返信

What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

michael - 返信

16 GB is the max

Bradon Kelley -

I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

Tachyon - 返信

Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

Tachyon - 返信

  • バッテリ上端の、2本のY1 トライウィングネジを外します。

  • ※特定の修理(ハードディスクドライブなど)の場合はバッテリーを取り外す必要はありませんが、マザーボード上で誤ってショートさせてしまうのを防ぐ事が出来ます。バッテリーを取り外さない場合は、マザーボード上の部品が帯電している可能性があるので注意してください。

  • ハードディスクドライブを交換する場合は、手順3〜6をスキップしてください。しかし、作業する前にすべての電源を取り外しておくことをお勧めします。

A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

Jon Daniels - 返信

I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

dave - 返信

The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

Abe - 返信

I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

Mark -

Short of taking out the battery is there something else I can do to protect the motherboard?

Bruce Bell - 返信

What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!

oboewan42 - 返信

A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).

akronymus - 返信

It says "Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard." This is obviously a boilerplate instruction that is not appropriate for a repair guide.

Well, DO you have to remove the battery? IS this one of those repairs where it's "not necessary but prevents accidental shorting"?

Obviously, this instruction is boilerplate text that accompanies almost all the repair guides-- but there shouldn't be boilerplate text there, since this is a specific guide for replacing the Magsafe DC-in jack and not the harddrive.

skat1140 - 返信

  • 指先を使って警告ラベルの隅を慎重にはがし、隠れているトライウィングネジが見えるようにします。

  • 上部ケースとバッテリーを固定している、最後の隠れた7.4 mm Y1トライウィングネジを外します。

Is removing the battery necessary?

bname - 返信

It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

Daniel Brauer -

Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

Andrew Janke - 返信

Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

Max Fenton -

Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

Franco Bianchi -

As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

Max Fenton - 返信

Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

laurie - 返信

One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.

James -

Answered my own question ... the list at the top of this page is dif from the list when you order the part.....

laurie - 返信

Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

Tao - 返信

And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

Tao - 返信

Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

Ivan Keller - 返信

new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.

aozoren - 返信

Is this a battery from iFixit?

Scott Dingle -

Is all of this necessary if I am just needing to put a new top to my old bottom?

sherry williams - 返信

  • バッテリー上部についているプラスチックのプルタブを使って、上部ケースからバッテリーを上へスライドさせてずらします。

  • まだバッテリーを完全に取り外そうとしないでください。 この時点ではまだメイン基板に接続されたままです。

コメントを追加する

  • バッテリーケーブルコネクターにアクセスするために、ロジックボードからバッテリーを十分に傾けて下に隙間を作ってください。

  • バッテリーケーブルのコネクターをメイン基板のソケットから手前に引いて接続を切り、バッテリーを上部ケースから取り外します。

  • メイン基板の中央からバッテリーケーブルコネクターを外します。

I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.

Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?

I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.

cmalec722 - 返信

Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.

johnsawyercjs -

The spudger works well for detaching the connector.

skat1140 - 返信

  • 基板に左側ファンを固定している3.4 mm T6トルクスネジを3本外します。

    • あるモデルでは、T6トルクスネジが3.1 mmの長さのものがあります。

Je vais juste vous surprendre car je suis français.

JI'll just surprise you because I am French .

I understood the problem of the left fan. In fact the problem is with the design at Apple. The fan housing is too narrow vertically a few tenths of millimeters. This is why so many problems . The left fans deteriorate very quickly.

The solution is very simple. Buy a new fan in China, it is the cheapest and level it's very fast delivery . Warning it comes fan already used but in good condition.

The thing to do is to over- raise the fan does not rub and deteriorating. To do so just buy a zinc washer 3 mm diameter available from my local hardware store ( € 3 for 70 pieces ) and place it under the black screw fully right and top right . The over- elevation leads to no longer have friction effect.

Thats ALL !!!

olivierbartoli - 返信

on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

Bryan Chun - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板から左側ファンのコネクターの接続を外します。

  • コネクタを解放するにはファンケーブルのワイヤ下からスパッジャーの平面側先端を水平に差し込み、ツイストすると作業が進みます。

  • ファン用のソケットとコネクタは2番目と3番目の画像で確認できます。スパッジャーでファンコネクターを持ち上げてソケットから外す際、プラスチックのファン用ソケットにダメージを与えないようご注意ください。2番目の画像から基板のレイアウトが確認できます。お持ちの基板とは若干異なる箇所があるかもしれませんが、ファン用ソケットは同じはずです。

I successfully removed my right fan, cleaned it and installed it back. But when it came to the left one I accidentally broke the connector from the logic board. Now I'm left with only one functioning fan. I'm using an external laptop fan. Do I have to replace the whole logic board or can it be fixed somehow? My temp is between 90-95 C when I run a heavy game.

khalid alodan - 返信

I made the same mistake! Did you solve it?

Rosario - 返信

In case anyone else accidentally breaks a fan connector, check the comment on step #14. It is basically the same connection, so that should work here.

Relevant part of comment - “To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.”

John - 返信

  • 上部ケースから左側ファンを持ち上げて取り出します。

コメントを追加する

  • 上部ケースに右側ファンを固定しているT6トルクスネジを3本外します。

on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

Bryan Chun - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットから右側ファンコネクタをこじ開けます。

  • コネクタを解放するには、ファンケーブルワイヤの下からスパッジャーを一線上にツイストしながら引き上げると作業がしやすいです。

  • 上部ケースから右側ファンを取り出します。

There is no way to reconnect the fan cable. It looks like it was soldered onto the logic board. I disconnected it and can't reconnect it.

Has this happened to anyone else.

Vicki - 返信

Vicki, you tore the connector off the board. They can be re-soldered if you are very careful/skilled with a soldering iron, but that is not something that you should try to do if you haven't soldered SMD components before.

rcoleskelton - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、AirPort / Bluetoothリボンケーブルを基板上のソケットから引き上げます。

  • AirPort / Bluetoothリボンケーブルを基板から離すように折り曲げます。

コメントを追加する

  • iSightケーブルのコネクタを光学ドライブの入り口に向けて引っ張り、接続を外します。

I was afraid to pull too hard, but wiggling it worked! :)

Mark - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、光学ドライブケーブルのコネクタを基板から引き上げます。

  • 光学ドライブケーブルを基板から邪魔にならない位置に折り曲げます。

hello i just installed a brand new logic board in my mac, in my mac i have replaced the cd drive with an second ssd - but when i turn the mac on, the OS cant find the second ssd, the cable is in (it clicks in) - does anybody know how to fix this or ?

Best regards Mathias

mathiastondering - 返信

  • サブウーファー/右側スピーカーのケーブルを基板上のソケットからコネクタを持ち上げて、接続を外します。

Same problem as with step 11. I pried up the connector as shown and can't reconnect it. It looks like it may have been soldered to the logic board. How can this be fixed?

Vicki - 返信

The only problem that I face on substituting the top case was when I tried to connect the subwoofer connector to the socket on the logic board. I did some tentatives but on the last the socket on the logic board I suppose unsoldered. Some suggestions?

Thanks

Paolo Sperati

paolosperati63 - 返信

I did step 16 (disconnecting the hard drive cable) first and then came back to this step - worked for me

Colin White - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからハードドライブケーブルのコネクタをこじ開けます。

コメントを追加する

  • 基板に小サイズのEMIシールドを固定している2本のプラスネジを外します。

  • 基板からEMIシールドを取り出します。

Mine was stuck to the Keyboard Ribbon Cable; needed an extra pull, but it's safe and should come off - it's not attached to anything. :)

Mark - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからトラックパッドケーブルのコネクタを引き上げます。

コメントを追加する

  • 指先を使って、キーボードリボンケーブルの固定フラップを裏返します。

  • ソケット自体ではなく、固定フラップを裏返すようご注意ください。

  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ソケットからまっすぐキーボードリボンケーブルを引き抜きます。

How will I know I have inserted the keyboard ribbon successfully? After installing a new upper case I can't seem to get the keyboard ribbon to stay in its socket. Or does the EMI sheild hold it in place?

cemcatikkas - 返信

Ditto. It seems very tricky to reinsert the keyboard ribbon.

GrooveStomp - 返信

I just did this - it is kinda tricky. The ribbon cable has a flap on top that is designed solely to help you coax the cable back into the socket....don't make the mistake I did and spend an hour trying to feed this flap through the socket. What worked for me was a combination of using the flap with my fingers and tweezers on the actual cable to reinsert it into the socket. Took a few tries, but I got the cable re-inserted, pressed down on the tiny locking thing, and the keyboard cable was in and secured.

dave - 返信

Indeed, it is difficult to insert the keyboard ribbon cable. It will stop after about 1mm of insertion. It needs to go in quite a bit further. Angling it slightly, you may be able to get a corner to go in, then straighten the ribbon while applying forward pressure. I reassembled it a few times with that sinking feeling on startup before I realized that it wasn't really making contact!

dennishodge - 返信

I've replaced the keyboard, so reinserting the ribbon was particularly tricky. After several failed attempts, here's what finally dawned on me... I took a piece of scotch tape, maybe an inch long. I folded on end on itself, maybe a quarter inch from the top. That left a sticky zone and a non-sticky zone on the tape. I taped it to the ribbon, and was able to use the tape and a "handle" to pull the ribbon into the socket. Afterwards, I carefully removed the tape without pulling the ribbon out of the socket.

Bryan Chun - 返信

This was the hardest part for me. Be sure you flip the release flap up before removing or re-inserting.

Jonathan Daiello - 返信

This might be obvious to some, but for those for whom it is not, this info is very important. First: only the ribbon is what needs to be pulled out (and inserted later on) not any of the black plastic casing. Second: before you try to pull the ribbon out, you need to flip up the release flap so its vertical (this is the thin black part that is located on the top edge of the black casing). If you don’t do this you will damage the casing or the ribbon or both.

Greg - 返信

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーインジケーターのケーブルコネクタを基板上のソケットから引き抜きます。

コメントを追加する

  • ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックに付けられたプラスチックのプルタブを掴み、デバイスのDC−in側に向けて位置を変えます。

  • ディスプレイデータケーブルをまっすぐソケットから引き出します。

  • ケーブルを上向きに引っ張らないでください。ソケットは大変壊れやすいためです。上部ケースの角に向けて基板の表面と並行にケーブルを引っ張ります。

One of the chips in this image was covered in glue. when I flipped the data cable clip, the glue plus encased chip popped right off the board. Does anyone know what chip this is? Without it, my Mac plays the startup chime, but the screen is black. The backlight is on, but it just displays black.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/befonnaz125fn9...

Jon - 返信

I did the exact same thing. I still have the tiny chip. Is there a way to glue it back on or will I need a new logic board now?

Louis Adams - 返信

There's a bracket / handle clip attached to the display port. I didn't know it was there and accidentally bent it off. Can't get it back on, but it seems to work OK without it.

Bryan Chun - 返信

  • スパッジャーの先端や指の爪先を使って、キーボードバックライトのリボンケーブル用ソケット上の固定フラップを裏返します。

  • ソケット自体ではなく、固定プラップを裏返してください。

  • キーボードのリボンケーブルをソケットからまっすぐ引き離します。

I couldn’t see the flap as mine was already popped up. Try looking at it from the side to get a better view of the state of yours.

Cyrille - 返信

  • 次のネジを外します。

    • 上部ケースと基板を固定している3.3 mm T6トルクスネジを7本外します。

    • 上部ケースにDC-Inボードを固定している 8 mmのT6トルクスネジを2本外します。

  • まだ基板を完全に外さないでください!上部ケースに固定された基板の下側に、まず最初に接続を外さなければならないコンポーネントがあるためです。

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  • 基板の左側からアセンブリを丁寧に持ち上げて、ゆっくりと上部ケースから外します。取り外す際に端子に基板アセンブリを引っ掛けないようご注意ください。

  • まだ基板を完全に外さないでください!

I just took one apart that had some pretty strong adhesive holding the speaker onto the upper case. I had to slip a spudger underneath and pry it up, else it was going to overly bend the mobo before it would release.

jkamis - 返信

My board was stuck to the bottom plastic. I had to gently release it by pushing the black plastic beneath the board down, while carefully moving the board upward.

Jonathan Daiello - 返信

  • アクセスできる高さまで基板を持ち上げて、スパッジャーを使って上部ケースからマイクを引き離します。

On this step, the microphone was attached to the board so the whole unit lifted off easily.

seandodd - 返信

Mine was too; it was part of the speaker assembly, a much better arrangement.

maccentric -

  • 基板を端子側から引き離して、アセンブリを上部ケースから持ち上げます。

  • 基板を再装着する前に、マイクを左側のスピーカーの筐体に押し込んで固定しておくと簡単です。

  • ESDによるダメージを防ぐため、作業中は基板を柔らかく、静電気防止の表面上に置いてください。

After prying off the mic from the top case and carefully lifting the logic board, I realized there was still a wire connected near the display connector, under the board. I was able to disconnect it but I'm wondering if I missed something or if this cable is missing from the instructions. The wire was connected under the board so it could not be disconnected before removing the board.

Laurent Daudelin - 返信

This is the magsafe cable. Step 23 details removing the torx screws holding the magsafe board in place. If you remove the screws, you don't need to remove the cable.

supersuade - 返信

  • ヒートシンクを上側にして柔らかくて平らな表面上に基板を置きます。

  • ヒートシンクを基板に固定しているT6のトルクスネジを6本外します。

  • 各ネジの下に留められた小さなバネを紛失しないよう保管してください。

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  • 基板からヒートシンクを取り出します。

  • 6本のネジを外した後でも基板にヒートシンクが付いている場合はスパッジャーを使って2つのコンポーネントを外してください。

  • ヒートシンクを基板に取り付ける際は、放熱グリスの塗布方法を参照して交換しましょう。

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  • 必要に応じて、左側スピーカーハウジングの角からマイクを持ち上げます。

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  • 基板に左側スピーカーを固定している5 mmプラスネジを2本外します。

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  • 該当する場合は、左側スピーカーのコネクタを覆っている黒色テープの小さなストリップを外します。

  • 基板上のソケットから左側スピーカーのコネクタを持ち上げるため、丁寧に左側スピーカーのワイヤを上向きに引っ張ります。

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  • 基板上のソケットからマイクのコネクタを持ち上げるため、丁寧にマイクケーブルを上向きに引っ張ります。

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  • 基板上のソケットから DC-Inボードの接続を外すため、ヒートシンク側に向けて DC-Inボードケーブルを引っ張ります。

  • 基板の表面と並行にケーブルを引っ張ります。

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  • RAMから両側のタブを同時に引き離して、RAMチップの両側のタブを緩めます。

  • これらのタブはチップを固定しています。チップを外すと”飛び出す”ように出てきます。

  • RAMのチップが外れたら、ソケットから引き抜きます。

  • RAMチップが他にも搭載されている場合はこの手順を繰り返します。

  • 基板が残ります。

  • ヒートシンクを基板に再び取り付ける場合は、作業をより簡単にするため、放熱グリスの塗布方法を参照してください。

I broke one of the clips that secures the memory in the "down" position when replacing the RAM. Is there any way to replace just this part? I tried removing the 4 screws that appear to connect the fastener to the logic board but had not luck removing the piece. Any ideas?

Doug - 返信

Don’t forget to turn the logic board over (as pictured) first!

Kal - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

83 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Andrew Bookholt

498,666 ポイント

619のガイドは作成済み

Hallo ifix,

I have a Macbook pro 15´ unibody mid 2010, i7, 2,66 Ghz,

but i cant find the exact same logic board, i found a Macbook pro 15´ unibody mid 2010, i5, 2,66 Ghz, can i use that one, or is there a difference between the i7 and i5 logic board? Thanks in advance.

Zen Khalil - 返信

Did you ever get a response regarding this?

Elle Snickens -

As long as the logic board is from a 15” mid 2010 it will fit

Robbe -

Great guide, thank you! Steps 9 and 10 are reversed order.

Kinny - 返信

I have a 2010 white macbook that I haven't been using in about 6 months. Can I use the logic board in that macbook and install it in a 2012 macbook pro?

Lesego Madisa - 返信

Thank you very much, great guide y fixed my MBP 15 mid2010 with new SSD and 8Gb RAM, im VERY HAPPY!!!

Matias Tortolini - 返信

Thanks for the good guide! I replaced my logic board with a new one saved me a lot of time.

John Glasgow - 返信

hi, can i upgrade the logic board on the MacBook Pro mid 2010 for a logic board MacBook Pro 15" Unibody 2.7GHz Core i7 Logic Board - Mid 2012?

thanks

Luis Fábrega - 返信

Hi did you get a reply for this

I want to do the same thing.

Ιωάννης (Cult Rekla) -

Hi,

Did you get an answer for this?

I want to do the same thing.

Ιωάννης (Cult Rekla) -

Hello I have a mid 2010 MacBook pro i7 2,66. I want to replace my damaged logic board with a 2012 Core i7 2,7 one.

Does it work? hey have the same case A1286 so it fits.

Ιωάννης (Cult Rekla) - 返信

Excellent guide guys!!! Thank you very much! My mac is reborn and it was easier than I expected! Cheers!!!

pedro aspahan - 返信

Great guide but author doesn’t answer questions.

Sandy - 返信

Can i upgrade the logic board on the MacBook Pro mid 2010 for a logic board MacBook Pro 15" Unibody 2.7GHz Core i7 Logic Board - Mid 2012?

Sandy - 返信

Position of battery connector and keyboard/touchpad is slightly different. So I will say w/o replacing battery and upper case most likely - no. At list it doesn’t work when I try it. Ended buying on ebay macbookpro9.1 with dead screen for $300 and installing my screen on it. (however should mention Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antennas should be replaced to)

IF you will go for it, replace Airport card too to have ac capability and bluetooth 4.0 (something like BCM94331PCIEBT4CAX Airport WIFI+Bluetooth 4.0 Card)

Serge Stikine -

Dear all,

I have a MacBook Pro Mid 2010 and I need some help from expert please.

SamerR - 返信

Had this crazy experience that after having replaced the logic board my laptop did not want to boot from the SSD - just got the gray screen with the blinking folder icon. The same ssd booted happily on another laptop. Stuffed in an old drive with El Captain, no problem booting from that drive, so computer was working. Then spend some hours upgrading the El Captain to High Sierra, ran all the updates. Attached the original ssd again and ask to restart the laptop, it worked.

Not sure what this indicates, except that I am very happy I had that old drive lying around!

gtangt - 返信

could have had a few more close up pictures and larger ones on the connectors and locks to see what they looked like missed some on the reassembly used a magnify glass to see what they looked like to lock them in correctly

goldiecrown62 - 返信

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