はじめに
このガイドを使ってダメージが入ったり、壊れた右側ファンを交換します。
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pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....
The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.
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バッテリーコネクタを覆うステッカーを巻き戻します。
You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.
+1 to above comment
Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3
I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.
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バッテリーコネクターの両側を静かに持ち上げて、コネクターをロジックボード上のソケットから引き出します。
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バッテリーコネクターが誤ってロジックボードに接触しないように、コネクターをバッテリーの方に戻してください。
@lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).
I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.
Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect
Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.
I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.
There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.
Ellie B -
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AirPortアンテナケーブルコネクター3つをAirPortボード上のソケットから接続を外して、邪魔にならないように反対側に折り曲げます。
When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)
If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.
I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.
ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…
AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?
Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.
How do you know which is which when reassembling?
I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(
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I/Oボードケーブルのコネクターカバーを固定している2.2 mm T5トルクスネジを4本外します。
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右側のコネクターカバーを取り出します。
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットから I/Oボードケーブルの右側先端をこじ開けます。
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
20 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
4 件のコメント
Great tutorial. I did not notice the screw length in the beginning. Thanks. :)
Strange noise came out of my mac. I found a screw on my right fan fell off and got stuck in the right fan.
James Bond - 返信
Complimenti davvero, una guida veramente ben fatta. Il mio mac ringrazia :)
completed my first mac repair ever, so excited.
I was hearing a strange buzzing / grinding noise coming from my right speaker. After ensuring it wasn’t the speakers, I realized it was the fan (would only start making the noise when the fans were kicking into high gear). I opened it up and found that one of the screws on the right fan wasn’t attached to the logic board: Step 14, top right screw (orange) attaches to a silver nut (?) which should be attached to the logic board. The adhesive that attaches the nut to the logic board had detached! Gotta find what type of adhesive I need to get for this, but putting this here for anyone with a similar problem.
The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.
anonymous 1286 - 返信
Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.
anonymous 1286 - 返信
WAIT!.. STOP.
iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).
Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.
MFMauceri - 返信