1. 次のネジを10本外します。
    • 次のネジを10本外します。

    • 14.4 mm #00プラスネジー3本

    • 3.5 mm #00プラスネジー3本

    • 3.5 mm #00 段付きプラスネジー4本

    Does void the warranty?

    jfondeur - 返信

    No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

    oakdragon12 - 返信

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - 返信

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

    Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - 返信

    Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

    Seji the veggie -

    What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

    Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

    pmhparis -

    The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!

    While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.

    Dan -

    I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

    John Adam Wickliffe - 返信

    Hey guys,

    this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

    I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

    renatumb - 返信

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - 返信

    Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

    kschmesk - 返信

    Totally agree!! I used the #00 screwhead for 7 out of the 10, but for the remaining tricky ones I used the #0 screwhead and it helped me out. I was so worried I would strip the tiny screw, but this comment saved me!

    Juliana Mak -

    I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

    Alex - 返信

    The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

    . Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

    I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

    brian whittle - 返信

    Hello MacWorld,

    Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

    wer 10/5/15

    tayseer999 - 返信

    I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

    ForumHermit - 返信

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - 返信

    on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

    Maximilian Klotz - 返信

    I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

    gilded yak - 返信

    Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

    Jack - 返信

    I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…

    Michael Wilkens -

    I’ll second that. I could never find them being different.

    otetz -

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - 返信

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.

    Stephen Smith - 返信

    A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help

    Wilder Torres - 返信

    Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.

    airshack - 返信

    when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.

    this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.

    Matt - 返信

    It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same

    Luca Giancarli - 返信

    If you look closely, the four front screws (with the yellow circles) have a short unthreaded section under the head. The orange keyed screws are threaded all the way up.

    Raymond Ives -

    The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).

    Don Cely - 返信

    Two screw types:


    Shouldered Unshouldered






    El Crashitan - 返信

    If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.

    Patrick Langvardt - 返信

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - 返信

    I did this last weekend, and definitely, a Phillips #000 screwdriver is required (not a Phillips #00!)

    Javier Campos Delgado - 返信

    WIll this card be good with MacBookPro 17 inch 2011

    Zafar Ali - 返信

    I just followed this guide and it really helped me install a replacement cable and a new Samsung 860 EVO 500gb SSD in my aging MacBook Pro 13 A1278 MID 2012. It’s performing like a new machine now! The guide worked fine, but I’m curious why this HD cable costs €45 on Ifixit’s webshop, and only €13 on Amazon.de (I live in Europe)? The Amazon purchase also included two screwdrivers and a spudger.

    Jeff Baker - 返信

  2. 排気口(液晶ヒンジ部)付近より、底ケースを指で開けます。 底ケースを取り外します。
    • 排気口(液晶ヒンジ部)付近より、底ケースを指で開けます。

    • 底ケースを取り外します。

    If the black vent window that is attached to the back cover becomes loose what kind of glue should be used to attach it again, thermal paste or super glue?

    Thanks for your help.

    Mikell - 返信

    bonjour cette truc ça marche au mac Brook pro Retina ou pas?

    Shi Feng - 返信

    Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil https://fr.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-Mac (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !

    Claire Rapp -

    Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?

    Volkan Ogul - 返信

  3. スパッジャーの先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボードのソケットから上向きに引き上げます。 ソケットからバッテリーコネクターを外す際に、両側の短いサイドから上向きに引き上げると作業がしやすいです。コネクターの角に気をつけてください。簡単に壊れてしまいます。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターをロジックボードのソケットから上向きに引き上げます。

    • ソケットからバッテリーコネクターを外す際に、両側の短いサイドから上向きに引き上げると作業がしやすいです。コネクターの角に気をつけてください。簡単に壊れてしまいます。

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - 返信

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Sooo the track pad is under the battery...you kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.

    stiknrudder -

    This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

    Steven Layton - 返信

    My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

    Diego Hernandes -

    Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!

    stiknrudder -

    Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

    ausmkv - 返信

    wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

    Peter - 返信

    I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

    John - 返信

    simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

    toiu - 返信

    What do you mean by "remove the battery"?

    Anrothan -

    Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

    fasthans - 返信

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - 返信

    Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

    MacProUser - 返信

    Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

    Simon Mundy - 返信

    I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

    Zeerachen - 返信

    Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

    Ed Oliver - 返信

    DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

    Bradley Marks - 返信

    Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

    No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

    nichoferr - 返信

    Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

    Mfernandez - 返信

    This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

    Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

    BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

    wassberg -

    Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.

    Stephen Smith - 返信

    I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.

    Raymond Rinaldi - 返信

    Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!

    Marijke de Vries - 返信

    The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201165

    B T - 返信

    I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.

    airshack - 返信


    Do I really need to use a spudger tool? Can’t I just use like two plectrums for guitar? xD

    Myzcio - 返信

  4. バッテリーケーブルをロジックボード上のソケットから外して、わずかに折り曲げておきます。そうすると、作業中にアクシデントで接続することがありません。
    • バッテリーケーブルをロジックボード上のソケットから外して、わずかに折り曲げておきます。そうすると、作業中にアクシデントで接続することがありません。

    What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

    Diego Hernandes - 返信

    The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

    The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

    One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

    Great guides. Thanks!

    timgunkel - 返信

    Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

    Sal Ergrapes - 返信

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - 返信

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Followed the advice and right as I was installing the replacement fan , the socket broke right off the motherboard.

    Ian Thal - 返信

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - 返信

    does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.

    Darren Rose - 返信

  5. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからAirPort/Bluetooth リボンケーブルのコネクターを持ち上げます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからAirPort/Bluetooth リボンケーブルのコネクターを持ち上げます。

    N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

    Greg - 返信

  6. 丁寧にロジックボード上のソケットからカメラケーブルを引き出します。
    • 丁寧にロジックボード上のソケットからカメラケーブルを引き出します。

    • iFixitスタッフによって推奨されていませんが、この手順を完全に省略しているユーザーの方々がいます。これに関する情報はこの手順のコメントを参照してください。

    • ケーブルをロジックボードの表面に対して平行になるように引っ張ります。ケーブルを上向きに引っ張るとロジックボードやケーブル自体にダメージを与えてしまうことがあります。

    "Carefully pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board."

    I followed these instructions to the letter, heeding the warning to pull vertically.

    The camera cable broke at the connector.

    The connector was pretty tight in the socket. Had to use a tiny screw-driver to free it. There was no way simply pulling would have worked.

    A quick google of "macbook pro camera cable broken" shows that this has happened to many other people, and been reported to ifixit. But no mention in the instructions. Disappointing.

    The MBP no longer boots. The cable is soldered to the LCD, which must be replaced. $500?

    Someone, PLEASE fix the instructions. It looks like many people have been hit by this.

    Brian - 返信

    Actually it says to pull parallel away from the board, so horizontally. It never said vertically and actually warns against pulling verticaly.

    Technic Mender - 返信

    I'd to disassemble my MBP two times because my SSD did not work properly in optibay. While doing it a second time, I omitted steps 6 and 8. It is really not necessary, but step 6 is really scary.

    nicholas - 返信

    Do you even need to do this?? I've seen guides where they just leave those on and slide the superdrive out from underneath that module..??

    Philip - 返信

    Yes, this is really no need. I left it there, and still can proceed.

    maiyawmh -

    I've replaced 4 dvd's with hdd's already, in different macbooks, so wasn't too fussed about #5. However; this time I broke the camera connector cable :(

    The connector is stil in it's socket, and I can't get it out no matter what I try. My guess is that some of the glue that connects the socket to the logic board, got into the socket as well. Prying with a small screwdriver, pulling with a pair of tweezers... nothing works. And this mbp belongs to a friend who uses his camera a lot for skyping...

    I hope we're still friends after I tell him.

    The thing is; I think it might be possible to do the whole operation with that cable still in its sockets; if you pull the rest of the cable free of the fingers, you can probably fold it out of the way when you lift the dvd out.

    puchelaar - 返信

    This is Sooo Unnecessary!! don't do it!

    grant reynolds - 返信

    I actually found it necessary to do this step. If not done you can rip chord, if you read the wording carefully and do as it says it should not break.

    Robert Wacker - 返信

    After having initially skipped this step, I finally followed it. I couldn't find a way to move the airport / bluetooth assembly away otherwise, and in the end it's a pain to put the small screws back in. Didn't have any trouble unplugging the camera cable, but it is indeed scary because it looks pretty fragile.

    I only skipped step 8, as it didn't seem necessary.

    JoGersen - 返信

    I also broke my camera cable!!! And I just realized that removing that lovely cable was not necessary for the following steps!!! Thank you!

    I dont know how to fix this problem and I asked it in this question: How can I fix broken camera cable

    Please, help...

    Yusuf - 返信

    I omitted this step successfully

    Diego Posadas - 返信

    I skipped this step, but did step 8.

    There was no way I was doing this step -- just remember that the cable is still plugged in, and work VERY CAREFULLY.

    Serah Merrick - 返信

    totally unnecessary. You can remove optical drive easily without disconecting that cable

    hukko - 返信

    Technic Mender, he is talking about Step 11. It says upward. Most untouched MBP's have a piece of sticky foam over the right subwoofer connection to the logic board, so you can't see how it is really supposed to come out but that step says pull upward. Ripped my right subwoofer connection straight from the logic board. Thanks iFixit, Step 11 has an unnecessary line that costs me money. You pull it laterally, not up.

    tsmith - 返信

    I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 7, 8, and 11.

    pauloau - 返信

    I have a blog post on my experience of performing the upgrade with a simple diagram showing how to skip step 6, 7, 8 and 11. (http://www.ocyedwin.com/?p=190)

    Aderic Adsisco - 返信

    I skipped this step complete . There is space enough in order to manipulate stuff without unplugging theses cables.

    Mfernandez - 返信

    I tried to pull the cable, but it did not come off even with moderate force. So it stayed as it was, and I had no problems taking out the drive and putting in the new one.

    Probably its best to skip this step.

    cearnach - 返信

    I can't remove this so I skip it. I also skip 7,8,11 with no problem, just do it slow and carefully remove any parts.

    Pat Ach - 返信

    I did this successfully, but I don't remember which way the contacts came out. Does the side with more gold face up or down?

    naihtims64 - 返信

    I also managed to skip steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. It is possible to get the superdrive out without disconnecting the camera, antenna, and subwoofer. However, obviously you have to be very, very careful.

    Darren - 返信

    Just done the job. *6 to 11 are strictly unnecessary*. You'd better be careful (a little bit, that's not hard at all) than taking the risk of all those tricky steps...

    And you will gain a lot of time ;-)

    XDjuj - 返信

    Just did the replacement of Optidrive with my original HDD (which I had earlier replaced with a Samsung EVO 500 GB drive - using ifixit's method). I omitted steps 6,7,8 and 11. The upper left side screw of the OptiDrive is deeply placed - a magnetic screwdriver with a long thin shaft would be essential to remove and especially, to replace it.

    arun - 返信

    Confirmed for a second time: Steps 6, 7, 11 NOT NEEDED.

    Alvaro Paiva Bimbo - 返信

  7. Skip the upgrade.

    Take $10 off $50 with

    Save Now

    Skip the upgrade.

    Take $10 off $50 with

    Save Now
  8. AirPort/Bluetooth リボンケーブルを丁寧に作業の邪魔にならない位置に動かし、サブウーファーと AirPort/Bluetooth ブラケットに留められている接着剤を剥がしながらカメラケーブルを取り出します。 AirPort/Bluetooth ブラケットの中に装着されている固定フィンガーの下からカメラケーブルを解きながら外していきます。
    • AirPort/Bluetooth リボンケーブルを丁寧に作業の邪魔にならない位置に動かし、サブウーファーと AirPort/Bluetooth ブラケットに留められている接着剤を剥がしながらカメラケーブルを取り出します。

    • AirPort/Bluetooth ブラケットの中に装着されている固定フィンガーの下からカメラケーブルを解きながら外していきます。

    This step is unnecessary, as is step 8. You can get the SuperDrive out and put the caddy in without pulling the cable out.

    Steve - 返信

    The disk utility sytem recognises my new HD however when I try to do the recovery setup I receive an error message.

    daniel001 - 返信

    I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 8, and 11.

    pauloau - 返信

    Confirmed for a second time: Steps 6, 7, 11 NOT NEEDED.

    Alvaro Paiva Bimbo - 返信

  9. スパッジャーの先端を使って、AirPort/Bluetoothボード上のソケットからロジックボードに一番近いアンテナコネクターを引き上げます。 AirPort/Bluetoothブラケット中に組み込まれているフィンガの下からアンテナケーブルを解き、取り出します。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、AirPort/Bluetoothボード上のソケットからロジックボードに一番近いアンテナコネクターを引き上げます。

    • AirPort/Bluetoothブラケット中に組み込まれているフィンガの下からアンテナケーブルを解き、取り出します。

    I omitted this step too. It's not necessary.

    Diego Posadas - 返信

    I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 7, and 11.

    pauloau - 返信

    Based on the advice above, I tried to skip this step. Unfortunately, the way the wire wraps around the plastic caused it to break underneath when I lifted the optical drive out, and now I have another broken part.

    lisaquatmann - 返信

    Yu can easily skip the step, just make sure you take care when removing/put away the AirPort/BT assembly in the next step, be gentle.

    Lucian Onea - 返信

  10. 次の5つのネジを取り出します。
    • 次の5つのネジを取り出します。

    • 10.3 mmプラスネジー2本

    • 3.1 mmプラスネジー2本

    • 5 mmプラスネジー1本

    Is all of these screws can be removed by phillips #00 screwdriver? I can't remove left 10.3 screw and bottom 3.1 screw. Another screws can be removed easily… My macbook pro is 13-inch, Late 2011. What can be wrong?

    Ilya - 返信

    Note the position of the little grounding rings when removing the red (10mm) screws. You'll have to make sure to re-seat them when reassembling!

    James - 返信

    You are so right about making sure to put back the two metal rings when you screw back the two (red) 10.3mm screws. I missed putting back one of the rings and read your comment after I had installed the drive and closed the macbook. Everything was working fine, but I went back to open it an leave it just as it was, with both metal (one with a plastic/cloth material around it) plates/rings attached properly. So it is very important to make sure you put those two 10.3 mm screws back with the plates/rings that they hold, exactly as they were before you put it apart.

    pachis2 -

    I think you should remark when re-assembling the machine, you should pay attention to the metal clip in Step 9, the upper left screw position, it's easy to miss when assembling, because there are so many wires, and it may be very easy forgetting putting the metal clip back in place.

    Mac - 返信

    No idea how I'm supposed to put back the "grounding rings". Anybody?

    Sarge Izzard - 返信

    As far as the grounding ring goes, it slips back over the screw hole, be patient and gentle. You may have to finagle the airport board under it first and then lay the board flat and reattach the subwoofer. I will see if I can add a pic in the near future. But that the best way to describe it.

    Robert Wacker - 返信

    Another comment on step nine I have is about the subwoofer. In my case the screw hole that is for the "One 5 mm Phillips screw" (its currently circled in yellow) was broken [Mind you I have never dropped this computer so it came that way from apple. So be carful, it may be fragile and need some repair. Apple really needs to have better quality control on parts like this .(also they won't care that it was that way, they didn't like that I opened the computer, so even though its their fault, I should never have known and therefore they shouldn't be held responsible in their mind.) This may not void warranty as an over all upgrade, but any parts 'broken' or in my case 'found broken' during the fix are not covered any longer. So just be aware of this possible defect. Happy fixing.

    Robert Wacker - 返信

    No need to unscrew the 2 orange-marked 3,1mm screws - they just keep the two black plastic pieces together. In the contrary, unscrewing these makes the job more wobbly.

    de757 - 返信

    I removed all the screws in this step with the PH0

    casse89 - 返信

    i managed to strip two of the 3 #00 Phillips screws on this step, so im going to try and explain how i removed them.

    i got a ratchet that is about 5" long, and a 1/4" socket that fit the bits in the 54 bit driver kit

    there are all of the parts that you need in that kit to connect it to the ratchet

    with this tool of torque i dropped down a size and use the #000 Phillips bit

    i pressed good and hard, and watched the head. if it didnt turn i pressed harder

    one screw was the worst and the #000 didnt work on it, just stripped it further

    so i threw the j000 on the end and gave it a go

    the shaper point on the j000 seemed to do the job

    i was on the verge of JB Welding bits to them and trying that

    but i didnt need to

    allen - 返信

    I did not removed the orange screws. I also successfully skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure.

    pauloau - 返信

    This is the most difficult step while resembling. Take special care of the 2 10.3 Phillips screws tabs positions in order to resemble as original.

    Mfernandez - 返信

    You don't have to remove orange screws but remove them make you easily move the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly.

    Pat Ach - 返信

    If you remove the orange screws (I did), note that the top one is under the ribbon. When screwing it back in, you have to carefully bend the ribbon back to get the screw underneath. Do not impinge on the ribbon when screwing it back in.

    Darren - 返信

    After completing this step during reassembly, it may help to loosen the screw just right of the rightmost red 10.3 mm screw. Then, make sure the metal plate attached to that screw fits inside the small cut-away in the outer body. I tends to run just over it, causing problems later when screwing the lower case back onto the computer.

    Floris - 返信

  11. AirPort/Bluetoothアセンブリとサブウーファーを完全に取り出すまで、光学ドライブ側の中心付近で上向きに持ち上げます。 AirPort/Bluetoothアセンブリとサブウーファーを光学ドライブの上部から離します。
    • AirPort/Bluetoothアセンブリとサブウーファーを完全に取り出すまで、光学ドライブ側の中心付近で上向きに持ち上げます。

    • AirPort/Bluetoothアセンブリとサブウーファーを光学ドライブの上部から離します。

    The left part in the picture (the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly) is held down under a plastic tab that sticks out a tiny amount. Thus, it needs to be pulled very slightly towards the camera module in order to be able to lift out.

    Darren - 返信

  12. 右側スピーカー/サブウーファーケーブルを光学ドライブ側付近の固定フィンガの下から引っ張ります。 右側スピーカー/サブウーファーケーブルをロジックボードから接続を外すため、上向きに引っ張ります。
    • 右側スピーカー/サブウーファーケーブルを光学ドライブ側付近の固定フィンガの下から引っ張ります。

    • 右側スピーカー/サブウーファーケーブルをロジックボードから接続を外すため、上向きに引っ張ります。

    This step was also unnecessary. You can do the whole operation while leaving the subwoofer cable in place.

    Steve - 返信

    I removed it and after reassemble it looks like the speaker has no bass.

    Rafael Carvalho - 返信

    It also happened to me :( Did you solve it out?

    Meenchul Kim -

    I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 7, and 8.

    pauloau - 返信

    I skipped the step about disconnecting the speaker cable. No problem.

    Raymond Rinaldi - 返信

    Skipped, no problem

    Lucian Onea - 返信

    My wires all slipped out during removal. This should be fun to fix. Be careful.

    ColbyAndrew - 返信

    I broke the speaker cable from the board

    can I fix that ??????

    Martin Ruiz - 返信

    Confirmed for a second time: Steps 6, 7, 11 NOT NEEDED.

    Alvaro Paiva Bimbo - 返信

    I will confirm for a third time, having just done this replacement yesterday morning: Steps 6, 7, 11 NOT NEEDED.

    cjdow - 返信

  13. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからハードドライブケーブルのコネクターの接続を外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからハードドライブケーブルのコネクターの接続を外します。

    • 光学ドライブからハードドライブケーブルを折り曲げて外します。

    N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

    Greg - 返信

  14. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから光学ドライブコネクターを引き上げます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから光学ドライブコネクターを引き上げます。

    N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

    Greg - 返信

  15. 上部ケースに留められた光学ドライブから2.7 mmプラスネジを3本外します。
    • 上部ケースに留められた光学ドライブから2.7 mmプラスネジを3本外します。

    The two screws at the left are stuck. Anyone having this problem or know how to remove them? I used a Phillips #00 as stated and it doesn't work.

    maximejobidon - 返信

    I had the same issue. I got to Step 14 with no problems and then stripped the bottom left screw head! I was able to get it out with the help of a rubber band. You lay a section of the rubber band across the stripped screw, place your screwdriver on the screw pinching the rubber band. Then place a decent amount of force to engage the screw as you turn. Worked like a charm for me! Also, if you bought the ifixit optical bay hard drive enclosure they included two of those screws in the bag of screws (at least they did in mine).

    andrewsimpsonx -

    I had to drill mine. I cannot for the life of me understand how those got to be so tight or so easily stripped. The is no reason for either. Both mine stripped like a hot knife through butter.

    I had to drill mine out. Not that hard with even the crappiest of drill bits. One I had to drill completely out, although honestly I just got the head off and left it. The drive bay replacement I got only had a place for two screws anyways. The other came out as expected, one I got enough into the head I was able to reverse directions and it came out.

    I also did this without removing the camera cable and other items, just moved things out of the way. I took one tiny pull on the camera cable and knew better than to bother. You should be able to easily manage the items out of the way without causing any damage. Also, if you can only get one screw in, just make it one of the left screws. The unibody setup and placement of other items make it so that no matter what the drive is secure no matter what.

    scottmilliken -

    I'm having the exact same issue here. Left two screws are in there really tight. I got the top one out with the rubber band trick, but no dice with the bottom one.

    Zachary Tatom - 返信

    Same Problem one of the screws wont come out. I think it is stripped . What should I do now ?

    binualexander - 返信

    I stripped mine as well. Anyone know where I can buy these screws for cheap?

    wyatt jones - 返信

    As complained, the left bottom one was also annoying me, stripped out. If it is moderately stripped, then the rubber band would be the best answer as guided by andrewsimpsonx. The screw is tiny and shallow, so all you need is just one very hard pressing the screw, pinching the rubber band.

    By the way, I was doing this to lighten my laptop, but note that it is not that affecting :(.

    Meenchul Kim - 返信

    can i reuse this optical drive again

    justcause3 - 返信

    Sure you can. Use it in anything. Stick it in a USB enclosure and carry it.

    scottmilliken -

    As complained, I'm stuck at step 14, because of one loisy screw... I've tried the rubber band trick, but it does not work with my screw ( bottom left one). Now the screw is also completely stripped, because of the rubber band trick. Does anyone have any recommendations, how to get the screw out ?

    Rocky De Wiest - 返信

    Well, that was a crock. I managed to get all the way to the end, didnt have to remove my camera cable, and the two last screws stripped out easier than a hot knife through butter.

    I tried the rubber band trick, nothing on either one. Guess it will go to the drill.

    scottmilliken -

    Because I skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11 when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure) I found it specially difficult to put the top right screw back in place. It kept falling below the enclosure. I needed to remove the enclosure two times, before I was able to put it back.

    pauloau - 返信

    Basically i had to remove the optical drive by leaving the two left screw's there and snapping the whole thing, it was not the best solution but it worked, the two screws would't come out :)

    manelrodrigues19 - 返信

    iFixit has a guide on How to Remove a Stripped Screw: ネジ山が潰れたネジを取り出す方法

    Stripped Screw - 返信

    I had the upper left screw stuck and a bit stripped. What worked for me was removing the optical bay as much as I could (possible since 2/3 screws were out) and wiggle it around the last screw. The last screw came off really easily after.

    Julian Honma - 返信

    In my MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2012)

    MBP 15.4/2.3/2X2GB/500/SD/GLSY

    Part Number: MD103LL/A

    the 3 screws in this step are hex screws

    Ray F - 返信

    I was about to pull and break the optical drive because the two screws were very tight. On a last effort, I pressed down really hard the screwdriver and used pliers to twist it. It worked.

    Arturo Álvarez - 返信

    Can’t secure the hard drive holder to those two left screw placements. I was able to get them out without any problem - but the dual hard drive holder piece doesn’t have the right dimensions for me to re-secure the part to the upper part of the case. Basically, the head of the screw is “too wide”, and cannot be forced past the side of the drive enclosure. Will be sending pictures to iFixit, as this needs to be fixed. Right now, I’ve got an empty hard drive enclosure (since the SSDs are out of stock, and I had a stuck CD in the optical drive that was really causing a lot of slow-downs and grinding noises) just sort of sitting in there. Figured it was a bad idea to leave a huge gaping space.

    Spencer Wen - 返信

    Thanks for alerting them about this.

    My hard drive enclosure from iFixit came with two small screws — I replaced the two screws on the left with these, as the originals don’t fit. The replacements have a smaller head, so everything worked out once I realized what they were for.

    garosteen -

    We had the same issue too, but then we choose the Phillips #000 applying pressure downwards. Just then, the screws went easier,

    diana.leneant - 返信

  16. ディスプレイ側の端から光学ドライブを上向きに引っ張り、上部ケースから取り出します。
    • ディスプレイ側の端から光学ドライブを上向きに引っ張り、上部ケースから取り出します。

    Because I skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure, I found it easier to remove the enclosure by lift the side close to the battery and main HD and pulling it towards myself (towards main HD and battery).

    pauloau - 返信

    Did the same, also because i skipped those steps. It worked, you just have to remove it gently.

    Lucian Onea -

  17. 光学ドライブケーブルを光学ドライブから引っ張ります。 ケーブル自体ではなく、コネクターを引くようご注意ください。
    • 光学ドライブケーブルを光学ドライブから引っ張ります。

    • ケーブル自体ではなく、コネクターを引くようご注意ください。

    • 小サイズのメタル製マウントブラケットに留められた黒色の#0プラスネジ2本を外します。このブラケットを新しい光学ドライブか内蔵ハードドライブに移してください。

    Does anyone have a problem that the cd/DVD won't fit in their SuperDrive once reinstalled? I am unable to fit a cd in, as well as eject any cd as well.

    Jonathon Derr - 返信

    Same problem here. I have to force it and it doesn't spit it back out.

    ryanb -

    what capacity of hard disk we can use once we remove Optical Drive 500GB, 1TB or 2TB

    Ambrish Daga - 返信



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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

メンバー登録日: 2009年10月17日

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I am confused - per Apple's specs, this model doesn't have an optical drive: https://support.apple.com/kb/sp649?local...

tempelmann - 返信

Yes, the specs say so:

Connections and Expansion

MagSafe power port

Gigabit Ethernet port

FireWire 800 port (up to 800 Mbps)

Two USB 3 ports (up to 5 Gbps)

Thunderbolt port (up to 10 Gbps)

Headphone port

SDXC card slot

Kensington lock slot

8x SuperDrive <-

Florian Schulz -

Am I the only one who finds this ‘guide’ to me inappropriately titled. I mean, it should be called ‘optical drive removal and that’s it’. The title it currently has led me to believe that it would not only show how to take out the optical drive, but that it would then show me how to put in the new hard drive I have. In other words, where’s the rest? That nobody else has posted this comment is making me equally crazy right now. It’s got me so crazy right. This guides got me feeling so crazy right now. Got me so crazy, this guides got me crazy, this guides got me crazy. This Guide!!!!

Ryan DeMont - 返信

Are you trying to take the optical drive out entirely and install a new HDD there? You need an HDD bay (mounter, adapter, whatever you call it) for your new drive to install it because: 1. HDD is way too small to fit the place and 2. the connector for optical drive is different from that of your HDD’s.

If you don’t have any, iFixit offers this (careful, it supports HDD up to only 750GB!)

If you have one, did yours come with some instruction to secure your HDD in place? Follow the instruction on that (usually requires you to put 4 screws on the side of your HDD as well as to screw the metal part you scavenged from your SuperDrive.) Once you take out the SuperDrive, replace the words “optical drive” in this guide with “your HDD bay,” then backtrack the guide (in fact, most of the guides here only instruct you how to disassemble your device; There’s a final instruction on the blue area to backtrack the guide to assemble it back.) That’s what I did.

Collapsed PLUG -

Replacement is simply the removal process in reverse.

Robert Gellatly -

can i take the hdd installed inside my macbook pro mid 2012 and place it instead of the optic drive or there’s no such option and i’ve got to purchase a new hdd or ssd to put it instead of optic drive?

indigo_f1ow - 返信


Thank you for this guide. My drive was refusing to write discs, after open it, I found the lens was dirty, nothing a Q-tip and isopropyl alcohol couldn’t clean.

Javier Cano

Javier Cano - 返信

is it posible to just remove the drive and leave the space empty?

jams - 返信



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