はじめに
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 のサブウーファーと右側スピーカーを交換します。
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取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げます。
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
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サブウーファーのコネクタの上部に付いている柔らかいパッドを外して、基板上のソケットからコネクタをゆっくりと引き抜きます。
It is not necessary to remove the camera cable connector (step 5) or the camera cable connector (step 10). Simply push the camera cable gently aside to remove one of the three screws securing the optical drive (step 11). Gently wiggle the optical drive from under the camera cable connector and go to step 12. Less chance of ruining your motherboard!
Absolutely. Leave it alone, you don’t need to run the risks of removing this cable, I did the replacement fine without it
It does indeed come out of the connector, but the picture makes it hard to see how; the connector it goes into sits on top of the board—however, I, too, ripped mine off the board trying to remove it; I only got it out of the clip after I tore it off. SIMPLY DONT; it's unnecessary. I plan to solder it back if one of my Robotics club friends lets me borrow a soldering iron.
I avoided disconnecting the camera cable. If you are careful, it's not needed. I've taken tons of PC's apart and its 1 million times more complicated than a mid 2010 MBP! I've had my MBP for 5 years and I'm now upgrading memory, adding a SSD for OS and 750gb in the optical drive for storage. My computer has just started getting slower. This couldn't be any easier to do!
GRR WHY would a tutorial show us how to BREAK IT wtf
Warum wird dieser Schritt und das Foto nicht aus der Anleitung entfernt ?
Auf dem Foto kann man sehen, wie der Verbinder des Subwoofers abgerissen wird.
Dieser Schritt ist nicht nur unnötig, sondern führt auch dazu, dass man, wenn man der Anleitung folgt, sein Macbook beschädigt.
Was soll das ?
Ich brauche unbedingt Hilfe. Ich bringe den neuen Stecker vom Lautsprecher nicht mehr an. Besser gesagt der Stecker (wie auf Bild) hebt nicht mehr. Warum?
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カメラケーブルのコネクタを光学ドライブ側に引っ張り、基板から接続を外します。
I messed around with my MBP some years ago and everything was fine. When I opened it yesterday that plastic retainer was glued *above* the camera cable and wasn't very sticky anymore.
On a whim I decided to not put it back in. Now there's now Wifi anymore (did all the hardware reset things, nothing). Can that small plastic thing have to do anything with the wifi?
Thanks for you help!
Nick Names - 返信
Well, I put that plastic thing back in, still no Wifi (would have really surprised me ^__^).
I'm having a similar problem where I think I messed something with this step and now my computer is REALLY slow and I cant get any wifi. Heres my story.
I am going to put a SSD in place of my HDD so I also took the optical drive out of my mac to reduce the weight. If this matters I also changed the fan because that was broken. I'm wondering what the problem could be. One thing im confused by in the guide was step 5. Am I supposed to remove that connector? If so how do I do that? I may have wiggled that a little trying to take it out.
My computer will boot up very slowly but the mouse and keystrokles lag by about 4-5 seconds. The computer won't connect to wifi. The battery symbol has an "x" inside the battery so I keep in plugged in. It also has my apps in the dock and my name in the upper right hand corner.
Any ideas what is wrong? If something is wrong how do I clone my old data onto my new hard drive? If you have any questions about my situation ill gladly answer them.
HDD in DVD slot with caddy works, but seems VERY slow, logically i assume step 5 , is HIGH risk critical, and now I must try undo everything , cos I spent a lot of time in step 5 and probably kill my mac
This is the stage (5) that concerns me with my lack of wifi and Bluetooth. I enlarged the iPad screen to max so I could view the clear plastic cable retainer. Leaving the screen on max I missed the part that said,"pull the camer cable connector towards the Optical drive to disconnect from the logic board" makes me wonder if that caused the problem,as I lifted it away from the logic board? Any I found it very difficult to align the connector with its socket. Any thoughts please.
Peter Mayo - 返信
Which of the four ribbon connectors relates or controls the WiFi Bluetooth and Camera ?
Peter Mayo - 返信
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、光学ドライブのコネクタを基板からまっすぐ引き抜きます。
I did on my 15" MBP (putting a SSD) without any problem
but I did it on this very model 13" on a friend MBP
and it seems the optical drive cable is dead (both drives works connected elsewhere ) the only other part i was not able to test separately is the data doubler from OWC that allows to fit a SSF in place of the optical drive.
Do anybody experience this ?
The optical drive cable shows no sign of tearing i unplugged it very carefully
BUT once disconnected during the optical drive extraction from its original location the cable might have touch the logical board (not sure just guessing)
Any clues welcome !!
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、上部ケースに右側スピーカーを固定している接着剤を剥がします。
The new speakers don’t come with adhesive, so some double sided tape is handy. Also, the right speaker cable can be rather long, so some tape is useful to carefully loop it out the way.
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
44 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
4 件のコメント
excellent review, really helped a lot, and i only had one left screw left lol :)
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - 返信
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - 返信
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - 返信