はじめに
ラップトップに2番目のハードドライブを追加すると、スピードの改善、容量の増大や新しいハードウェアをインストールした際のトラブルを防ぐことができます。
必要な工具と部品
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取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.
Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!
Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.
Am I allowed to cry?
Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.
IFIXIT - IDIGIT!
kath myers - 返信
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
That was a brilliant read.
Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.
Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.
:)
Cary B -
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げます。
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
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サブウーファーのコネクタの上部に付いている柔らかいパッドを外して、基板上のソケットからコネクタをゆっくりと引き抜きます。
It is not necessary to remove the camera cable connector (step 5) or the camera cable connector (step 10). Simply push the camera cable gently aside to remove one of the three screws securing the optical drive (step 11). Gently wiggle the optical drive from under the camera cable connector and go to step 12. Less chance of ruining your motherboard!
Absolutely. Leave it alone, you don’t need to run the risks of removing this cable, I did the replacement fine without it
It does indeed come out of the connector, but the picture makes it hard to see how; the connector it goes into sits on top of the board—however, I, too, ripped mine off the board trying to remove it; I only got it out of the clip after I tore it off. SIMPLY DONT; it's unnecessary. I plan to solder it back if one of my Robotics club friends lets me borrow a soldering iron.
The 4-pin push connector for the sub-woofer is near impossible to reconnect
It mates with a female connector that sits on top of 4 tiny solder points (it's held on by a spot of glue, I believe), and when applying ANY pressure to connect, the side clip(s) will snap off. Then the connector itself will become unglued. It would be simple enough to connect the 2 parts, then place a drop of glue on the logic board after positioning it above the solder points, but the female connector broke apart in my hand. So now screwed, with no way to connect sub/ R speaker without installing another logic board. Fan connector looks to be exactly the same
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カメラケーブルのコネクタを光学ドライブ側に引っ張り、基板から接続を外します。
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光学ドライブと上部ケースを固定している2.5 mmプラスネジを3本外します。
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右側端から光学ドライブを持ち上げて、コンピュータから引き抜きます。
Install 2 outside screws first and then single inside screw to allow wiggle room to get outside screws in. Do not tighten screws until all are started.
JASON CULP - 返信
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プラスチックのスペーサーを光学ベイドライブの筐体からどちらかの側に付けられたクリップを押し込み、持ち上げて外します。
All Macbooks use 9.5mm Optical Drive Caddy, also, If you’re wondering as well, the Optical Drive runs at SATA II speeds just like with the main hard drive area, so if you’re using a SSD, then it’s going to run at a slightly slower speed.
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ハードドライブコネクタは筐体に取り付ける前に、正面が下向き担っているか確認してください。
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丁寧にハードドライブを筐体のハードドライブスロットに取り付けます。
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片手でしっかりと筐体を取り付ける位置に固定しながら、もう一方の手でハードドライブを筐体のコネクタに押し込んでください。
Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!
This is an extremely late response to an old comment, but… whatev’s. My 2011 MacBook Pro had that issue: the main (HDD bay) SATA operated at 6Gbit, and while the optical bay said it was 6Gbit, the “Negotiated Link Speed” was like 1.5Gbits regardless of what you put in it (I can understand 1.5Gbits for an optical drive, but not for an SSD). Some of the early 2012 models did the same thing, from what I understand, but that was corrected pretty early on; both my 13” and 15” 2012’s run at 6Gb/s on both SATA busses.
AJH -
It’s not wise to swop the optidrive for an HD as there is no physical protection. The caddy is only intended for an SSD. -
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筐体にドライブを固定している#1プラスネジを2本外します。
Where are these screws coming from? Were they part of the original optical drive?
The new enclosure should include these two Phillips screws.
Can someone show the step of removal process of hdd/SSD placed in the caddy? I am unable to revert this process. Do we have to apply back greater force to remove back the hard drive/SSD from the caddy?
These screws seems to be located in different places on different enclosures. I had serious trouble getting the SSD that the previous owner of this MacBook installed out of the enclosure until I realized the screws holding the SSD in place were on the side and not on the bottom. In case anyone else has the same issue!
nessie1001 - 返信
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光学ドライブのブラケットを新しい筐体に#0のプラスネジを2本取り付けます。
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オリジナルの光学ドライブから外したケーブルは光学ベイドライブの筐体に取り付けてください。
Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.
Mate,
My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10
I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.
My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.
I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.
So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.
I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.
Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8
You can't go back, apparently.
So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.
I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.
Rory -
I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.
roger hall - 返信
I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).
First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.
Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.
I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.
But It was recognized by Disk Utility.
What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.
So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.
Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...
Wish you all luck :)
My installation went great thanks to the guide. I did notice a small thing that might make a good tip, and that is to inspect all the visible screws. I saw one that was slightly raised, and when I poked around with the spudger, I found 2 more that had worked themselves out a bit. Its probably something super rare but at the age of these things, it wouldn't hurt to check.
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ケーブルのSATAコネクタをドライブの端子に注意しながら接続します。
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USBコネクタをラップトップに接続して、光学ドライブを使用できる状態にします。
There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.
Maybe that explain the eject button mechanism maybe….
Die neue SSD wurde durch das Laufwerk ersetzt aber leider wird jetzt die alte HDD nicht mehr erkannt. Hatte schon ein anderer das Problem?
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
106 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
4 件のコメント
I bought a 1TB SSD/hybrid drive from Ifixit.com to upgrade the 256GB HDD that came with MBP 2010. Disk Utility could not see the new drive on the original HDD cable but saw the old one just fine. New replacement cable was not the correct size for the MBP 2010 but worked just fine in my other MBP 2012. Put the stock HDD back in with the original HDD cable, removed the optical drive and replaced with the 1TB dual drive per instructions without problems. I have read online that the SATA HDD cable in MBP 2009 and early 2010 was too slow to read modern high-speed SATA drives.
Only glitch I found is DVD/CDs will not mount in the optical drive using the external USB cable that came with the dual disk kit purchased here. Will eventually have to find time to try swapping the optical drive with my other laptop to test internally as well as the external cable. At this point I don't care, didn't use the optical, love the two working internal disk drives. Thanks guys!
I replaced Primary HDD with SSD and moved HDD to optical slot with caddy, and it seems works, but HDD in optical slot is incredibly slow now. Macbook 7.1. Sierra. SSD Savage 250Gb.
Smoooooth, like butta. Thanks for another great guide and parts. My 2010 macbook pro now has an ssd running fast w sierra, and my conventional drive for lots of storage. About $200 for ssd and the parts, and my computer will be in good shape for a few more years!
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - 返信
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - 返信
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - 返信
I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)
Cary B - 返信