はじめに

Replacing the upper case requires the removal of nearly every component in your MacBook Pro. You will also need to transfer your old trackpad over to your new upper case.

  1. Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:
    • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

      • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

      • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

    scott523 - 返信

    The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

    iphonetechtips -

    A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

    In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

    Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

    http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...

    Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

    David Fear -

    Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

    wertaerte - 返信

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    twisk - 返信

    thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

    BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

    xitxit2 -

    i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

    plins718 - 返信

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - 返信

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/

    Eric Sorenson - 返信

    Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

    danzeitlin -

    I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

    jonathanmorgan - 返信

    I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

    john - 返信

    Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

    Igor - 返信

    The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

    Some info here:

    http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...

    "1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

    "*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

    Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

    Winston -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - 返信

    I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

    tarriojuan - 返信

    Had no idea they were so expensive.

    Franklin - 返信

    Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

    Luis Soto - 返信

    There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

    Luis - 返信

    If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

    gkofga - 返信

    What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

    John Doe -

    <i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

    I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

    THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

    Joseph King - 返信

    It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

    Mike - 返信

    Wonderful guide

    Freda - 返信

  2. Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.
    • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - 返信

    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    why is step 3 necessary?

    gansodesoya - 返信

    Quote from gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - 返信

    Quote from gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

    amiller770 - 返信

    I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

    shockaaa - 返信

    Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

    Brian -

    $@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

    Lukas Besch - 返信

    You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

    Logan Bean -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - 返信

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?

    Berlugana

    bduault - 返信

    Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

    amiller770 -

    I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

    Plamen - 返信

    I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

    marioluiggi -

    A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).

    .

    Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)

    .

    Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

    Luis Soto - 返信

    Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

    Everett Whiteman - 返信

    It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

    Knox Karima - 返信

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - 返信

    Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

    clsmithj - 返信

    • Use a spudger to pry the fan connector out of its seat, and straight up off the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

    The fan plug snapped off right away without applying much pressure so the best angle of attack isn't exactly where the diagram shows. Anyone know how to reattach this piece?

    Also worth noting I have the right screwdrivers and the screws inside this thing are really soft.

    Rpo - 返信

    I broke the socket too.. Any one know how to fix this??

    laika117 -

    Mine broke off too :(

    john - 返信

    I broke mine off too. No one knows if it can be reattached? Glue? Tape? Anything?

    philip shiang ho - 返信

    Mine broke, too. None of the repair shops in my area do soldering, so I may be SOL. I spilled water on my laptop and a bunch of keys shorted out. I read online from numerous sources that replacing the keyboard yourself isn't hard, so I figured i'd try it. I am majorly disappointed. Suggestion for iFixit: upload a video of someone disconnecting the fan cable connector. Clearly Apple didn't design it to be easy to remove, and your description is inadequate, given how many people have broken theirs.

    emmaxfeldman - 返信

    I just soldered it back on. . . I tried to clean the pads with braid first, but it didn't do much so I don't think that's necessary. I first supper-glued it in place with the pins on the pads and then I put a tiny dab of solder on each pin/pad. Plugged in the fan and i works!

    Ron Hudson - 返信

    Just the answer I was looking for Ron! Awesome work buddy!

    lucasjmenzie -

    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

      • One 6.5 mm Phillips.

      • One 5.5 mm Phillips.

      • One 4.5 mm Phillips.

    I found it mostly unnecessary to remove the fan and therefore all of the fan screws in this step. Only the two on the left hand side of the fan actually need to be removed. I also found it extremely helpful, after pulling logic boards several times, to remove the speaker screws at this time. The heat sink and the speaker interfere with each other when you are later trying to remove and then install the logic board. The longer screw goes on end of the speaker assembly that is closest to the fan, and the shorter one goes on the end closest to the dvd slot.

    stevesontheroad - 返信

    This article is about replacing the fan. Therefore you have to unplug and remove the old one.

    John Morley -

    The step is referenced in the Left Speaker replacement as well as for the Heat Sink replacement. So, I guess a new step may help with this guide. Either way, I couldn’t remove the right screw on the fan. Any idea which driver to use?

    eswarjj -

    If you are removing the logic board for any other reason than replacing it, or if your replacement logic board came with a fan installed, DO NOT REMOVE THE FAN. It is not necessary for the removal of the logic board. For removal with the fan attached, only remove the two screws on the left hand side of the fan, and leave the cable attached. I see here that too many people have broken the fan cable, and it is too easy to do.

    stevesontheroad - 返信

    Ce fut difficile de mon côté d'ôter les vis, il a fallu que j'utilise un tournevis de précision plus solide et que je l'entoure d'un élastique pour avoir plus de poigne, mais j'y suis arrivée.

    WomanTECH - 返信

    Which screwdriver do I need to remove the 4.5mm screw on the right of the fan? I tried a few and they seem to be damaging the screw (almost fit). So, I gave up. The driver set I have do not have proper markings.

    eswarjj - 返信

    • Lift the fan out of the upper case.

    コメントを追加する

    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock, and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket, towards the DC-in side of the computer.

    I pulled out the cable and it kind of broke off, now the screen is black when i turn it on but it still makes the chime. How do i fix this?

    robertjriordan1 - 返信

    If the cable broke, you can replace it for around $50ish. If the terminal broke off, I am afraid your logic board needs to be fixed(unlikely) or replaced.

    Jurgen - 返信

    • Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:

      • One 7 mm Phillips.

      • One 5 mm Phillips.

    • Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.

    Mine are Torx and got an extra clamp for the cable, just above the left screw

    Martin - 返信

    For some reason I stripped BOTH these screws! All the other screws came out without a problem!

    Johnson Sathaseevan - 返信

    If you only want to replace the DC-in board, stop here and GOTO 17 (and DO NOT 4 and 6).

    When the Logic board is loose, lift it up on the Harddrive end and shift slightly towards the HD, so that the USB connectors at the outside come free from under the case rim and the board can be lifted up a bit. Then there´s enough room to move the DC in board, pull the cable out with a pair of tweezers, wriggle it out from under the microphone cable and wriggle the new connector in. It can be pushed into the socket with tweezers or a small screwdriver. This worked perfect for me.

    Be careful not to bend the logic board, but otherwise I think there´s much less risk of messing anything up with all the connectors and bits and pieces that need to be loosened and fastened.

    Mike - 返信

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer and right speaker connector up off the logic board.

    Ouch - broke off the connectors by pulling upwards. As it looks, i should have pulled to the optical drive instead :(

    Thorsten Iversen - 返信

    I accidentally dislodged the right speaker / subwoofer cable connector as well as the fan cable connector. I know for the fan cable connector there is a warning about how easy it is to dislodge, but there should be more pictures to describe exactly how to avoid doing so. I can live without the right speaker / subwoofer, but my logic board cannot survive long without a fan. I'm trying to see if I can find someone who will try to solder the cable connector back on, but no one in my area will, so I may need to send it out (a local repair shop owner recommended a guy he's used to fix iPad backlights.) I am probably SOL, though. A new logic board is quite pricey... Had I known that it was so difficult to replace the keyboard on your own, I would have paid the $200 for a local repair shop to fix it. I found iFixit helpful but ultimately misleading. I may end up having to get a new laptop altogether. How upsetting.

    emmaxfeldman - 返信

    • In this step you will disconnect the camera cable. Most machines will have a small self adhesive plastic retainer stuck to the logic board to keep the connector in place. Before disconnecting the cable, be sure this retainer is moved out of the way.

    • Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.

    • This socket is metal and easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.

    There is a small piece just below this connector which is just an adhesive block to keep the connector from coming out. It is easiest to peel it up first with a fingernail or spudger then remove the cable. Likewise reinsert the cable before reapplying the adhesive safety stop.

    Justin Jett - 返信

    I couldn't reconnect this cable correctly, so my camera is not working anymore.

    It doesn't matter to me, I didn't used the camera that often...

    But the Ambient Light Sensor uses the camera to control keyboard lighting, so I wasn't able to see my keyboard in the dark anymore... :(

    If you have the same problem, after a couple of google hits I've found this app: https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/22151/...

    Problem solved! YAY!

    PS: be careful because WIFI passes through this cable as well!!!!

    simbass - 返信

    Look at the photo intently. The connector is inserting not in parallel, but at a slight angle. The bottom corner of the connector is slightly ahead. It is important! Singular metod to insert it.

    Vladimir -

    i bought an used macbook and the connector in step 10 is missing. Where can i buy that connector? Someone can give me the link for an replacement part?

    alexanderfroch - 返信

    The connector in Step #10 is the microphone. iFixIt sells this part here: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Microphone

    Is that the part you're looking for?

    (FYI You asked the question in the comments section for Step #4. That made it extra hard for me to find your post from the email I received because I follow this page.)

    jonathan12 - 返信

    After 8 years the adhesive on the pull were non existent. Tab pulled off before I got the connector off.

    Robert McGovern - 返信

    I also found reversing this step really hard to do. There is very little space to wiggle that connector in beside those tabs.

    Robert McGovern - 返信

    is it same of wifi and bluetooth?

    Mark - 返信

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board.

    コメントを追加する

    • Use your fingernail or the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable.

    • Use your spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Flat cable ZIF socket manufacturers do not recommend using any tools to open or close the retaining flap due to its fragile nature. They recommend using only you fingers! It's in most socket datasheet instructions section.

    Leo Bodnar - 返信

    When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in). For 3 days after replacing a top case, my MacBook Pro 13" wouldn't start up. I thought the main logic board was fried too. However, reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable again, this time perhaps 1mm farther in, and it started up again! I did the same for the "keyboard backlight ribbon cable" (i.e. reinserted it just to make sure). Really not sure which completed the circuit so is would start, but I suspect the keyboard ribbon cable.

    amiller770 - 返信

    Quote from amiller770:

    When reinserting the keyboard ribbon cable, make sure you push it in all the way (two plastic tools are helpful - one to push it down flat, the other to coax it all the way in).

    I usually use a piece of sticky transparent office tape and stick it over the flat cable a bit further away from the mating part then pull on it. There is no better way to force the flat cable into a stiff connector without damaging the fragile cable.

    Leo Bodnar - 返信

    My MBP was dead after replacing DC board too. I reseated the keyboard ribbon several times and it's finally working!!!!

    John Weeks - 返信

    As others have stated, if the keyboard ribbon cable isn't fully inserted the MBP will not power on. Leo Bodnar's recommendation to use a piece of transparent office tape did the trick for me. Many thanks Leo!

    Matthew Rankin - 返信

    • Peel the small strip of black tape off the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.

    コメントを追加する

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.

    • Use your spudger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    コメントを追加する

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up off the logic board.

    コメントを追加する

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.

    1. You have to unscrew one metal detail to get hold of microphone. That is missing.

    2. This step coulf also be extended with larger image where it's clear how to grab microphone.

    denyspopov - 返信

    • Remove the following screws:

      • Five 3.1 mm Phillips.

      • Two 3.9 mm Phillips.

      • Two 7 mm Phillips from the DC-in board.

    コメントを追加する

    • Remove the following Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case:

      • One 5.5 mm Tri-point screw.

      • One 13.5 mm Tri-point screw.

    • Lift the battery out of the upper case.

    I managed to get the logicboard free without removing the battery. Carefully lift the left side of the board and wriggle it away from the ports. Only try this when you have no tri-slotted screwdriver like myself.

    Kater - 返信

    • Lift the logic board from its left edge and raise it until the ports clear the side of the upper case.

    • Pull the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove it, minding the DC-in board that may get caught.

    • Be careful not to rip out the fragile connector plug of the microphone assembly.

    When putting the logic board back in place, it's easier to angle the mic down in it's place as you are placing the board in, rather than after the board is seated.

    amiller770 - 返信

    Please use the right and of good quality screwdrivers everyone!

    I officially messed up all the screws and now I can't get further!

    WARNING WARNING

    Lusfn shsogh - 返信

    maybe i missed it, but between step 19 and 20 should be heat sink removal. Just remove the four spring-loaded phillips head screws and remove the heatsink.

    hdh607 - 返信

    Quote from Lusfn shsogh:

    Please use the right and of good quality screwdrivers everyone!

    I officially messed up all the screws and now I can't get further!

    WARNING WARNING

    I had a tough time getting one of the battery screws out - the tri-slotted ones (who ever heard of tri-slotted screws?!?) and stripped one of them. I covered the rest of the logic board carefully and cut a new slot in the screw head with a dremel - VERY carefully. worked like a charm.

    hdh607 - 返信

    When i pulled mine up, it was stuck to the protective sheet guarding the keyboard and it ripped on the way up

    Stabs Anderson - 返信

    • Remove two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.

    • The screws remain captive to the bracket.

    • Lift the the retaining bracket out from the upper case.

    コメントを追加する

    • Lift the hard drive from its free edge and pull it out of the chassis, minding the cable attaching it to the computer.

    コメントを追加する

    • Disconnect the hard drive by pulling the hard drive cable connector away from the drive.

    コメントを追加する

    • Remove the following four screws securing the hard drive and IR sensor cable to the upper case:

      • Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws.

      • Two 4 mm Phillips screws.

    • Slide the hard drive and IR sensor bracket away from the edge of the upper case.

    • Carefully peel the hard drive and IR sensor cable from the upper case.

    コメントを追加する

    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the subwoofer to the upper case.

    • The longer ( 8.2 mm ) of the two screws is on the right. The shorter ( 5 mm ) of the two screws is on the left.

    • The subwoofer is still connected to the right speaker, so don't completely remove it just yet.

    • Lift the subwoofer off the optical drive, and set it above the computer.

    コメントを追加する

    • Remove the two 9.2 mm Phillips screws securing the camera cable bracket to the upper case.

    • The innermost screw may remain captive in the camera cable.

    • If you have the Mid 2010 version, your camera cable bracket may look slightly different, but the procedure is the same.

    • Lift the camera cable bracket out of the upper case.

    コメントを追加する

    • Remove the three 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.

    • Lift the optical drive from its right edge and pull it out of the computer.

    コメントを追加する

    • Peel back the small piece of black tape covering the right speaker cable.

    • Be careful, as the power button ribbon cable is directly under this piece of tape.

    コメントを追加する

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker up off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    コメントを追加する

    • Lift the subwoofer and right speaker assembly out of the upper case.

    コメントを追加する

    • Remove the two outer 6 mm Torx screws securing each side of the display bracket to the upper case (4 screws total).

    • When re-assembling, back out the inner 6 mm Torx screws about a quarter turn and gently align the display and upper case before inserting the outer 6 mm Torx screws. After the display and case are aligned, tighten the inner 6 mm Torx screws, then insert and tighten the outer 6 mm Torx screws.

    When re-assembling everything, you'll need to back out the inner screws a bit and align the upper case and display. After aligning them, tighten the inner screws again, then insert and tighten the outer screws.

    bradeyh - 返信

    • Open your MacBook so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

    • Place your opened MacBook on a table as pictured.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the 6 mm Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

    コメントを追加する

    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining 6 mm Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

    コメントを追加する

    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

    コメントを追加する

    • Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws highlighted in red.

    コメントを追加する

    • Carefully dislodge the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by pushing it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.

    • De-route the trackpad cable through its slot cut into the upper case.

    コメントを追加する

    • Pull the trackpad away from the outer edge of the upper case.

    • Remove the trackpad and set it aside.

    There's a missing step here. In addition to the trackpad, there's an aluminum structural piece that sits under the center of the keyboard, that has to be migrated from old to new case. It's clearly shown to the left of the repair-person's right hand in step 44.

    anonymous 596 - 返信

    • In the following steps, you will be working on your new upper case.

    • Use a T6 Torx screwdriver to loosely install the 1.1 mm set screw included with your new upper case into its tapped hole near the middle of the trackpad opening on your new upper case.

    • Only tighten it about one turn for now.

    I bought a used replacement case and had to move a few parts from the old case to the replacement. This included the battery indicator cable, the clips for the trackpad and the bracket in the center of the top case. So worth it at this point to compare your old and replacement case to be sure everything you need is there.

    Ron - 返信

    my new case came with the set screw already installed, and i couldn’t loosen it. i didn’t want to strip it and cause a bigger problem, so i left it alone. the trackpad seems to work fine so far regardless, although i may take the bottom case off and play with it a little if i get a chance.

    i also (just like Ron) had to move the trackpad clips, battery indicator and center bracket to the new case. they were not included.

    Matt - 返信

    • Carefully insert the cable from your old trackpad through its slot cut into your new upper case.

    • Use one hand to hold the trackpad cable in place as you insert the two retaining tabs on the outer edge of the trackpad under the lip on the upper case.

    • Pull the trackpad cable as you seat the trackpad into its void in your new upper case.

    コメントを追加する

    • Insert a 1.2 mm Phillips screw into each of the outer holes drilled into the trackpad (two screws total).

    • You'll install the rest in a bit.

    • Tighten the screws, then back them out about a quarter turn to aid in aligning your trackpad during the next few steps.

    コメントを追加する

    • While continually trying to click your trackpad, gently tighten the T6 Torx set screw until the clicks return to their factory "feel."

    • You can tell when the screw is tightened just right by the noise it makes when the trackpad clicks. If the set screw is too loose, the trackpad will have excessive play before it clicks. If it is too tight, the trackpad will click too easily and won't make the characteristic loud mouse clicking noise.

    コメントを追加する

    • Next, flip your upper case over so the keyboard side is facing up.

    • Align the trackpad so it is centered in its hole cut into the upper case.

    コメントを追加する

    • Tighten the outer two screws along the inner edge of the trackpad and check the alignment of it on the outer side of the upper case.

    • If its alignment looks good, install the rest of the Phillips screws along the inner edge of the trackpad.

    • Before reassembling your machine, verify that the set screw is still installed in a position so the mouse will click correctly.

    You can actually replace the keyboard alone fairly easily! I don't know why everyone says you have to replace the whole top case, because if you've got the guts to go this far, you might as well just peel back the illuminator cover and get to work pulling all those tiny screws in the keyboard... Just be careful when peeling up the black adhesive keyboard cover, because you will need to replace it. I used the edge of the ifixit Sesame tool (very thin flat metal opening tool) to carefully slip under any bits of adhesive, and had the keyboard exposed in no time. Also be careful because the clear plastic sheet is actually the keyboard illuminator. Once under all that, it's a mere 50 or so tiny screws, 2 screws in the power button backing, and you've got the keyboard out. Use a magnetized #000 phillips, it will make life much easier than anything else.

    Logan Bean - 返信

    Absolutely right. I just replaced a keyboard the same way without much problem but i just want to add that those tiny screws need extra care as the heads can get damaged very easily. If damaged, they become very difficult to remove.

    Masood -

    I did just that on my mid-2010 MacBook Pro about a month ago and sadly will have to do it to my wife's Early-2011 one next week. I was cleaning all the crap off her keyboard and apparently nuked the K and 0 keys on her keyboard. Probably my ply challenge was aligning the keyboard illuminator. It's still not aligned properly on mine so some keys are better lit than others, but otherwise it was a relatively easy fix and far cheaper than replacing the entire upper case.

    John Adam Wickliffe -

    My keyboard tasted good coffee and as a consequence keys "/", Enter, RShift, up/down arrows do not work. I was looking to replace upper casing but then saw your comment. My question is: can I get the keyboard alone, without top housing? IIUC that's exactly what you did, right? If so, where can I get the part? Cheers!

    ebelin -

    If I replace just the keyboard, are there any steps that I can skip?

    Duane Wood -

    I replaced my keyboard less than an hour ago. The biggest pain/most time consuming was reattaching the ZIF connector for the keyboard and backlight. No matter what I did I could not get the %#*@ thing to reattach. What sadist designs these things? I had to walk away from the project for an hour and finally success.

    All those screws will make you go crosseyed!

    Gordon - 返信

    It helps to put some tape along the cable going lengthwise to the cable, and then fold the end of the tape onto itself to give yourself something to hold onto. This will give you some leverage to get that puppy into the socket.

    maccentric -

    I’m glad you managed !!!

    I’m suffering :( take a part about 5 times…… ordered new (used) keyboard, the same results. I tested logic board in my daughter MAC, board works 100% no trouble ……. what could be wrong? there a secret how to reassemble keyboard parts together? I ripped a little bit black plastic thing, not top one with tiny connectors……

    In the end I have two keyboards, cleaned and taken a part, both of them acting identical when installed. Some keys respond by giving absolutely not relevant symbols, beeping noise come with almost every key i pressed…..

    Recovering after massive cappuccino spell after surprising hug :(((((

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I swear to post photo step by step, if I will achieve this one……….. assemble back to 100% working condition after total reassembling, ultrasonic cleaning and drying………. just keyboard panel.

    Give me nightmares :) will be first time I have so much trouble to fix………

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I'm wondering about putting it back together. Different wires and small parts etc were glued or adhered in some way to the case or sides or whatever, as it is put together in the beginning. Is that just to make it easier to put it back together? Should I try to stick them back the way they were with something? Can you use tape or glue if it's just a wire? I wouldn't want to use something that would melt...or is this not something to worry apout?

    ingwis - 返信

    I just used 1/4 polymide tape, and iFixit double sided tape. Works like a champ.

    Brent Hillyer -

    Hmmm.... I wrote a comment but cant find it now. I asked where I might find a diagnostic page to find out what components may have been damaged by minor water spill. I opened this model A1278 Mac Air (2010?) and there was some corrosion on logic board near power connection which I cleaned off with alcohol/toothbrush. Nothing from online tips will make it power on. This is a great guide to dis-assembly but I don't know what is wrong, e.g., logic board, key board, etc. Tips on how to proceed.? Thanks.

    donaldls - 返信

    Hi Guys could anyone please assist on where I can order the MacBook Pro top case on the internet? Many thanks :)

    Princess Lukombo - 返信

    iFixit sells them….

    Kendrick Troyer -

まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

39 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

Andrew Bookholt

500,480 ポイント

619のガイドは作成済み

Very good tutorial. Guide was 100% accurate. As mentioned, make sure you have good quality tools, and follow the guide to be certain the right get tool is used for certain screws, I did strip one screw head, in my opinion not bad considering all the tiny screws! But now my MacBook works, and save me having to spend on a new MacBook!

Gabriel - 返信

Could anyone tell me if this guide is suitable for the late 2008 model?

Nick MG - 返信

コメントを追加する

統計データを表示:

過去 24時間: 6

過去 7 日: 40

過去 30 日: 196

今までの合計 85,795