この翻訳は、ソースガイドの最新の更新を反映していない可能性があります。 翻訳の更新に協力してください。 または ソースガイドを参照してください。
はじめに
必須条件のみです。
-
-
次の3本のネジを外します。
-
5.0 mm T8トルクス、もしくは 2.0mm六角ネジ-1本
-
16.2 mm T6トルクスネジ-1本
-
26 mm T6トルクススタンドオフ-1本
-
-
-
両側のハードドライブのサーマルセンサーのワイヤーを慎重に引き上げた後、コネクターを持ち上げてロジックボードのソケットから外します。
The thermal sensor is VERY delicate, hold the connector down with a spudger and lift the cable with some tweezers. Long list of people online who have accidentally removed the connector from the logic board because the solder is insufficient.
I second the comment about using something, say a small screwdriver, to carefully put some pressure on the connector whilst then prying the cable up.
Excellent advice - thanks. I used a small set of tweezers to gently lift up enough cable to hold onto, and then to hold the sockets onto the logic board whilst I pulled! Success!
Note: the clips lift straight up, although after they are removed, it appears that tiny "prongs" are in the remaining socket. What look like tiny prongs are just horizontal wires. To replace, push the clips straight down. I used metal picks (like fine bent ice picks - available at Harbor Freight) to get under the edge of the plastic clip and lift up. I pulled gently on the wires with tweezers as I pried up the clips, but I would not count on pulling alone to get the job done.
Don’t have these, solid state drives?
I wanted to change the Superdrive on a 2010 Mac mini and when I took off the thermal connector from the hard drive, one of the two cables came off.
The hard drive has 2, it is the one on the other side of the SATA connector.
If you don't connect that cable, the fan always starts at 5000rpm. It is Apple Part Number: 076-1369
I was looking on Ebay/Ali and the cable is for €9, luckily you can insert the cable back into the connector and put a drop of thermal silicone to apply force and so far it works ok.
-
-
-
スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ハードドライブ と光学ドライブのコネクタ両方を、ロジックボードのソケットからこじ開けます。
-
-
-
-
光学ドライブのサーマルセンサーを外すには、親指とスパッジャーの間にケーブルを挟み、スパッジャーを上向きにこじ開けて、ロジックボードのソケットからコネクターを持ち上げます。
Pulling the socket off the board seems to be a common problem. I am going to investigate making a tool to hold down the socket while prying up on the plug.
For the time being I am using an app that controls the fan speed by sampling other sensors, such as the CPU heat sink.
papa Hajek - 返信
There are two problems with these connectors. First off they're made of very thin plastic so break easily (something addressed in later Mac mini's). Second the socket melts to the connector making it impossible to lift it.
If you do break it the metal tabs of the socket should we easily resoldered. Some practice beforehand, a fine tip solder iron, some leaded solder and your away.
En mi caso perdi el sensor de la unidad optica y ahora el ventilador se mantiene acelerado y no se si para que vuelva a su velocidad normal habré de conseguir el sensor optico. (cuando hice las pruebas con el equipo abierto, mientras probaba otra unidad optica no me daba esa falla).
Don’t see this connection, wires, only an empty connector.
When in doubt which of the two nearby sensors is the HD or the optical drive thermal sensor during assembly (!), look for instance at the guide to remove the hard drive. The two thermal sensors of the hard drive (see step 13 of this guide) are taped to the outside of the HD. The cable of the optical drive thermal sensor is below the HD (with the Mac mini upside down).
-
-
-
赤で表示されている2つの穴にMac mini ロジックボード用取り外しツールを挿入します。 作業を続ける前に、ロジックボード下のアウターケースに接触していることを確認してください。
-
ツールをI/Oボード側に向かって慎重に引きます。 ロジックボードとI/Oボードアセンブリは、アウターケースからわずかにスライドして取り出せます。
-
I / Oボードがアウターケースから外れていれば、こじ開ける必要はありません。 Mac miniロジックボードの取り外しツールを取り外します。
I had a couple of 3/32" drill bits in my tool chest. Worked perfectly (2.38 mm)
Derek Shaw - 返信
two fischertechnik screw drivers work perfectly as well!
Used 2 bigger paperclips. Straightened into single wire. Then in one of the previous bends I had bent it again and squeezed with pliers together so I have 2 "legs" of this improvised tool for better stiffness of wire. Went out nicely. It actually looks like a older hairpin, but more flattened...
But now I see there is a lot of paperclips on the market. Only the "smaller" ones I might use to bent it into 3 parts. So it depends of what is lying around.
-
-
-
I/Oボードの両端にある2つのプラスチッククリップをI/Oボードの中央に向かって同時に押し、I/Oボードを外側のケースから引き離します。
I’ve popped the logic board out a little bit, but it won’t move any further. I can’t see what the clips are or how to work them.
Look at step 20 below - you see one of these connectors on the side of the IO board, just under the fingers.
-
-
-
電源コネクタにアクセスできるだけの十分なスペースができるまで、I/Oボード/ロジックボードアセンブリをアウターケースから引き出します。
-
ピンセットを使って、ロジックボードから電源ケーブルの接続を外します。
Tweezers aren't strong enough. Use some small needle-nose pliers. Hold the I/O board and it pull away.
By the time you get to this step, the hard drive can be easily removed by simply sliding it out over the logic board. Then you can simply pull off the cable with your fingers. When re-assembling, again, attach the power cable connector first, with your fingers and slide the logic board all the way in. Then slide the hard drive in over the logic board.
I suggest to list this specific type of tweezers as shown in Step 19 at the beginning as useful/recommended tool to reconnect (!) the power cable. I could pry the power cable with the blunt side of a scalpel knife. But I sorely missed something like this tweezer when trying to reconnect the cable.
-
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
デバイスを再度組み立てるには、この説明書の逆の順番で組み立ててください。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
92%
これらの翻訳者の方々は世界を修理する私たちのサポートをしてくれています。 あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
In my case, the yellow circled standoff already came out with the previously removed fan.
Sven Harmstorf - 返信
My standoff screw was really tight and my T6 stripped the screw. :( But, because it's effectively just used as a post to stabilise the fan, I ended up using some surgical clamps, grabbing the standoff where the rubber grommet sits, and gently twisted the screw loose. No major damage because that part of the screw isn't really used! Just be careful and gently twist (patience is KEY) to loosen.
alc217 - 返信
The weak design of the long standoff screw (not enough material around the star-patterned socket head) has probably caused damage of the internal head during production of the Mac Mini!
The standoff screw was in my case extremely tightened and the T6 Torx screw driver could not be used anymore (due to damage of the socket head after applying too much torque during the original assembly).
I needed to use a High Leverage Combination Plier in vertical position to loosen the screw without damage to other parts. I tried to keep the rotation axis of the screw at the centre of the flat nose of the plier. Minor scratches to the screw can not be avoided in this way.
Marc - 返信