はじめに

このRAM交換ガイドを読んで、2018年式Mac miniのメモリーを交換またはアップグレードする方法を学びましょう。Mac miniは8GB, 16GB, 32GB DDR4-2666 SO-DIMM RAM モジュールの組み合わせで、64GBにRAMをアップグレードすることが可能です。

  1. 作業を始める前に、Mac miniの電源を切り、電源プラグを抜いてください。
    • 作業を始める前に、Mac miniの電源を切り、電源プラグを抜いてください。

    • オープニングツールを使って底面カバーを引き外します。

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  2. 底面カバーを取上げ外します。
    • 底面カバーを取上げ外します。

    • カバーを再び取り付けるには、ポートが手前にあるときに「Mac mini」というロゴが読み取れるように注意深く調整します。次に、隠しクリップを所定の位置にスナップするために、カバーを押し下げます。

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    • アンテナプレートを固定している次の長さのTR6トルクスセキュリティネジを、計6本取り外します。

      • 3つの4.1 mmネジ

      • 3つの1.8mmネジ

    • この修理の間、各ネジを保管し、作業後はMacの損傷を避けるために、各ネジを正しい位置に装着しているか確認してください。

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    • アンテナプレートを完全に取り外さないでください。これはまだアンテナケーブルがMac miniに接続されている状態です。

    • 慎重にアンテナプレートを裏返して、下のアンテナケーブルコネクタにアクセスします。

      • Mac miniのポートが手前になるので、アンテナプレートを持ち上げるのに最も安全な場所は右側になります。

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    • T6トルクスドライバを使用して、アンテナケーブルをMac miniのロジックボードに固定している2.8 mmネジを外します。

      • ネジを外している間は、ケーブルを引っ張らないように注意しながらアンテナプレートを固定します。

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    • ゆっくりとケーブルを引っ張るか、スパージャの先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからコネクタをまっすぐに持ち上げます。

    • ケーブルを再接続するには、ピンセットを使用してロジックボード上のソケットに注意深く装着位置を合わせ、カチッと音がするまでしっかりと押し込みます。

      • ケーブルに余裕が欲しい場合は、アンテナプレートに固定されたケーブルをクリップから一時的に外すことができます。

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    • Mac miniからアンテナプレートを取り外します。

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  3. Spread Fixmas Cheer
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    • T6トルクスドライバを使用して、ファンを固定している4本の7.2 mmネジを取り外します。

      • ファンをロジックボードに固定する2本のネジ

      • 排気ベントにファンを固定している2本のネジ

    • ゴム製のグロメットは、これらのネジをファンに固定しているため、完全には外れない場合があります。これらは完全に緩んでいることを確認してください。

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    • ファンコネクタはファンの下にあり、ファンを横に動かせるまで取り外すことはできません。ファンを完全に取り外そうとしないでください。

    • ファンケーブルを下にひずませないように注意しながら、ファンが排気ベントに合ったフラットエッジから持ち上げてください。

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    • ワイヤー6本のファンケーブルをつかみ,ゆっくりと持ち上げ、ロジックボードからプラグを抜きます。

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    • ファンを取り外します。

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    • パワーサプライケーブルを掴んで、左右に揺らしながら接続を緩めて、ロジクボードから外します。

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    • LEDインジケーターライトを持ち上げて、ロジックボード上のソケットからゆっくりと接続を外します。

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    • T10トルクスドライバーを使って、ロジックボードに固定されている7.5 mmネジを2本外します。

    These were very tight,

    plevin - 返信

    • この手順では、フレームを固定しているクリップを外しながら、ロジックボードを押し込み、これを解放します。下に指示されている方向に向けて押してください。それ以外の方向に押してしまうと、壊れやすい冷却フィンにダメージを与えてしまいます。

    • 排気ベントの両側、ファン用ネジ穴の上に親指を配置します。ロジックボードがクリップから外れるまでしっかりと一定の力で押し出します。

    • クリップが外れたら、ケースからロジックボードをスライドします。

    • ロジックボードを再装着する際は、薄いLEDインジケータ用ライトケーブルにダメージを与えないよう、邪魔にならない位置で固定してください。

    Okay - I used a lot of “might” to push on the ends of this heatsink to no avail. Literally, I was scared to break it - I could feel one side moving and the other not budging. I used a large flat-edge screwdriver vertically into the Mac Mini, prying lightly against the edge of the case hole and onto the back edge of one of the silver fan standoffs protruding from the motherboard. Very little leverage here caused the board to pop out past those tight clips. Phew!

    booster4075 - 返信

    Agreed needed a lot of force, but came out as described just tense moment. Almost ready to try the pry method and then it popped free. Phew is right.

    plevin - 返信

    • T5トルクスドライバを使用して、RAMシールドを固定している4本の2.8 mmネジを取り外します。

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    • RAMシールドを持ち上げ、RAMアセンブリからスライドして取り外します。

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    • RAMの両側は2つのクリップによって固定されています。指先でクリップを外して、RAMから離してください。

      • 離すとRAMがすこし浮き上がります。

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    • モジュラーRAMを真っ直ぐ引いて取り外します。

    • モジュラーRAMを取り扱う際は外側の端を持つようにしてください。くれぐれも底側端に付いているゴールドの接点には触れないようにご注意ください。

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    • モジュラーRAMをインストールします。

      • 新しいRAMを取り付けるには、向きが正しく、底面の切り込みが一直線になっていることを確認してから、同じ角度でスライドさせ、カチッと音がするまで均等に押し込みます。

      • 2番目のモジューラーについても同じ作業を繰り返します。

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    • 最後に、各RAMの上部端を手で支えながら、両側がカチッと音がしてしっかり装着するまでロジックボード側に向けて押し込みます。 

      • ラバーガードがクリップの邪魔になる場合は、片手でRAMからラバーガードを広げて、もう一方の手でモジュラーRAMを装着します。それからガードから手を放します。

    • クリップを確認して、両側のモジュラーがしっかりと固定されているか点検してください。

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まとめ

新しく交換する部品と、元の部品を見比べてみましょう。取り付ける前に、残りの部品を取り出すか、接着剤のバッキングを取り除く必要があるかもしれません。

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

修理がうまく行きませんか?そんな時は私たちの

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66 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Rod Bland

メンバー登録日: 2013年03月25日

1,196 ポイント

1ガイドが承認済み

Thank you, Rod! Would love to see a section on how to remove the memory cage . Also, just curious as to what release of the Mac Mini this is, and why it doesn’t have a memory cage.

syvalley - 返信

Since I don’t actually own this model, some of the pics are from the 2014 model where I could see that they looked very similar to some of the initial teardown videos showing up online. Step 2 and 8 are of the actual 2018 model. Hopefully someone who actually owns the 2018 version can post some extra steps with pics of the cage and how to remove it.

Rod Bland -

Update: now with pics of the RAM cage.

Rod Bland - 返信

Thank you so much! I’m curious about CPU. Is it possible to replace it?

cjoonh - 返信

No, the CPU is soldered to the logic board.

Jon Anscher -

Looks like the SSD is replaceable as well. Any idea on what kind of standard it follows?

QiF - 返信

looks like soldered to me. either way, with that T2 chip on board one shall not pass through…

Peter Marencik -

Just realised from another post, that this is the 2014 mini…

QiF - 返信

Some of the original photos were from the 2014. All photos are now from the 2018.

Douglas Bailey -

The new Mac mini doesn’t have removable ssd like on Step 8…

I just though that it’s great to have an upgradeable SSD.

patchosan - 返信

I am a little confused, The T6 Torx Security screwdriver is for every step of the way or where does T9 Torx Screwdriver, P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver comes in?

Alex - 返信

I’ve updated the guide now to make this clearer. Torx TR6, Torx T10 and Torx T5 is what’s needed.

Rod Bland -

Thank you.

It is a bit confusing, because the photos here are a mix of the 2014 and 2018 Mac mini. However it does help. :)

OP Plays / WildApple gaming - 返信

All fixed now. All pics are from the current 2018 model.

Rod Bland -

How many slots for ram rank have Mac mini? And the entry version (8Gb) how many rank have ? One of 8gb or two of4gb? Tank’s

tiffanycafenapoli - 返信

There are two RAM slots.

If you order the Mac Mini with 8GB RAM, it will contain 2 x 4GB RAM cards.

Douglas Bailey -

what about the CPU??? Please explore more!!!

Peter Marencik - 返信

Hi Peter,

the CPU is not socketed. Check out the teardown here.

Arthur Shi -

Can you put 2400Mhz RAM in the Mac Mini?

I ask because the MAC mini memory ram is rated for 2666mhz and I have ddr 4 2400mhz RAM laying around.

Nicholas Mohamed - 返信

I’m curious to this as well, because performance-wise there’s not any noticable difference but there is a price difference.

Mikael D -

I had a pair of G.Skill F4-2400C16S-16GRS laying around as well and both went in to an i5 mini no problem. About this Mac reported that the new memory speed was 2400 .

Ben Marco -

Is it possible to have :

1x 4Go DDR4 Apple 2666Mhz

with

1x 16Go DDR4 Crucial 2666Mhz ?

jean - 返信

Yes, you can mix and match the module sizes in just about any Mac, so you could even have 4GB +32GB

Rod Bland -

Rod, do you know if the performance is affected by different sized RAM? It may be too late for me now, but maybe I should have bought one 32GB module instead of two 16s.

Jon Anscher -

Although it is technically okay to mix ram sizes (if the mobo and BIOS allows it), there IS a performance penalty when not using matched pairs of memory. That is true for just about any computer (Windows PC or Mac); , it has to with interleaving and other factors. In some cases, even if both sticks are same RAM size but different makers or configurations, that can also cause a performance hit, hence why most recommend using matched pairs of SAME manufacturer / model. By configuration i mean a 4 GB chip may have a 4 x 1GB config., where as another 4GB chip from another maker may have a 2 x 2GB config or 8 x 512MB (or whatever, ) Macs have historically much tighter tolerances (ie. less forgiving) when it comes to memory vs say a garage mix and match PC build; I strongly suggest using matched pairs by same maker, and stick to reputable brands. there are a lot of gray market chips out there with very questionable tolerances; if the price SEEMS TOO GOOD, THERE IS A REASON.

Michael Chin -

The first video posted on Youtube said the mac didn’t recognize the replaced memory properly. He installed the DDR4 3000, but it just run at 2444. Do you guys tried other RAMs?

seawah.k - 返信

So, upgrading the ram won’t brick the Mac mini?

tran269 - 返信

No it will not brick the mac, worked like a charm with the Corsair 2x16GB from Amazon. Sorry IFIXIT.

Provided you take static precautions and use general care.

This tutorial is a great step by step. I used the IFIXIT TOOLKIT and the IFIXIT Magnetic Project Mat to complete the task. 30 minutes start to boot up. Save about 350 some odd dollars versus ordering it preconfigured from Apple, but to each their own.

Roger Alexander -

32GB RAM should meet my needs for a while, as it has for several years now. I read that the mini won’t be as fast with unbalanced RAM, so I ordered 2x16 instead of 1x32. That could have given me 36GB along with a 4GB from my 8GB mini order. 2x16Gb costs less than 1x32 so there’s a savings there, but I will ultimately have wasted money on the 16GB SODIMMs if I eventually need to upgrade to 64GB. Wasn’t an easy thing to decide on.

Lots of people will face this dilemma.

Johann Johannson - 返信

As I wrote the previous post on the 8GB mini, the security bits for installing the RAM arrived. With 8 programs and several background processes running—the LG 4K monitor Newegg had on sale last week for $259 has 30 icons on its menu bar—the mini is still comfortably below its 8GB limit. With paging occurring only infrequently and at blazing-fast speeds, I’m beginning to wonder if I’ll ever feel a need to install more than 32GB RAM.

Now to get to work and put those tools to use. Thanks for the tips!

Johann Johannson - 返信

Thanks so much for putting this guide together! Upgraded with 32GB of Crucial RAM. It works great, and I saved $240!

Jon Anscher - 返信

Bricked! Mini will not turn on. Any ideas?

For the avoidance of doubt. I presume I did something wrong. Anyway, put factory ram back in, still doesn’t start.

spamsea - 返信

Have you tried unplugging everything except a single monitor, keyboard, and mouse from the Mac Mini? I had some issues starting up the Mac Mini with a lot of peripherals plugged in. It seems to have resolved itself after it fully loads for the first time and all the updates hit. Although it does worry me a bit, long-term.

Jon Anscher -

That comment probably just saved Apple thousands of dollars lol. Hope you got it fixed, please keep us hesitants posted.

Radwan Kaloti -

I tried both removing all devices (headless) and just the basics. Is there anyway to tell if the power is plugged correctly to the logic board? I mean it looks right, just trying to think of things I could check. The only things I can think of are that the ram is somehow out of alignment in some micro way, (i tried new ram, old ram, wiggling in various directions etc) I didn’t put the power plug back on the logic board correctly or I somehow fried something..

spamsea -

One other thing you might try is powering it on in Recovery mode to confirm there is no software glitch. Have you posted this in the Answers community? There might be more technical folks there to try and help.

Jon Anscher -

Did you get it working spamsea?

Radwan Kaloti -

I had heard that it was necessary for Apple to run some sort of hardware test before new Apple products would be able to run ANY replacement parts. Could this be the reason it doesnt work? Now I’m nervous about trying to upgrade.

Ben DeJong -

Same-ish here. I swapped out the original ram for 32GB (2x16) from Crucial. Then the Mac mini won’t turn on again. I put the old ram back in and it turns on, but only recognizes one slot.

Jarrod -

Well, there is nothing for it, just gotta take it in to the Genius Bar. See if they can tell me what is wrong.

spamsea -

I’m bailing on the upgrade, it’s just not worth the potential hassle. And I thought about it, if ever I need to take it in to Apple for repairs during the apple care warranty, that’s opening and closing it 3 times, RAM in RAM out, might get away with it once, but opening it 3+ times ups the chances to break something.

Radwan Kaloti -

Fixed it.

Problem 1: The ram wasn’t seated properly. It clicks into place a few millimeters before it’s pushed down far enough. Push until the gold connectors are no longer visible at all. Mine seemed like it would break, but it didn’t.

Problem 2: This one was minor, but I had to hold the power button down for 5 or 10 seconds before it turned on. This isn’t usually the case, it’s only after replacing the ram.

Jarrod -

Way to go Jarrod! Thanks for the update. Please post another in a day or two as to how stable everything is. Thanks!

Mike Buettner -

Jarrod - are you still experiencing the power button long hold to start?

Mike Buettner -

Second mini. I followed the same steps, it all went fine. One difference is that on the second mini, I replaced the ram before turning it on for the first time.

spamsea -

This goes to my comment that Steps 19 - 22 and in Step 22 in the comment it says currently:

If the rubber guards interfere with the clips, spread the rubber guards away from the RAM with one hand and use the other to angle the RAM modules into place. Then, release the guards.

This should be replaced with - Remove the rubber grommets or RAM SHIELD FEET by sliding them in the same direction you slid the RAM SHIELD to remove it and then replace the ram normally. Replace the FEET and the Shield as described.

Roger Alexander -

Info: Mac Mini 2018 also works with DDR4 2400 Mhz

About this Mac: https://gyazo.com/b203d435cf809b2775abb7...

System Info: https://gyazo.com/21213acd745d5f2d6219c3...

Joerg Michael - 返信

Looks like we have a wait a little while more before we proceed to change those RAMs. The worst fear is bricking the whole system.

Let’s wait for more updates from those who can’t turn on their systems after changing their RAMs.

truecolours1971 - 返信

Plus, if the MM 2018 is able to run various task normally at 8GB of RAM, I don’t see myself upgrading the RAMs until the pricing are much lower. For now, 64GB is about $1,080 at OWC website which is ridiculously priced! Maybe when the MM is able to accept and run 128GB worth of RAM (day dreaming at the moment!), I will buy it! Will only purchase the 64GB RAM when it is less than $500 or less. My take for those who have not upgraded yet, use your MM for now and don’t think of upgrading your RAMs until much later. Upgrading to 32GB will see some improvement but why not wait a couple months and get the 64GB which will max out your system. MM 2018 is still relatively new and iFixit probably need to go through the whole system again to see and retest to make sure whatever we open, will not void out 1-3 years Apple Care Warranty plus brick the whole system.

truecolours1971 -

Yes, anxious to hear how upgraded Minis are working.

Mike Buettner - 返信

What, no antistatic mat and bracelet. If the RAM modules are sensitive to static charges, you should use static protection gear. You can zap a memory chip and never even know you did it until you cannot boot or you get system crashes or other oddnesses.

jferris1119 - 返信

Is there any chance to replace the SSD ?

wyattwong - 返信

Can you use only one slot, e.g. 1x16GB and add another one later (even better 1x32 when those are out)?

beczka - 返信

Thank you for your guide.Great work. I added 2x16GB Crucial and it’s working like a charm. One drawback … I killed the WLAN antenna socket. This one is very very fragile. While putting the cable back on the pin and pushing gently to lock it the whole socket came off. Good that I don’t need the WLAN module and maybe I’m able to buy a new socket somewhere sometimes and solder it back on place …

Markus Müller-Heidelberg - 返信

Hello. Is it possible to run the Mac Mini 2018 with only one RAM module (leaving the second one empty)? If it is possible, is there a penalty in its performance?

Thanks you.

Adrian Alvarado - 返信

This is the first ifixit repair guide I’ve ever followed. The 3 steps I was most worried about...Step 6: antenna cable connector removal. Step 10: fan cable removal. Step 13: LED indicator light cable removal...weren't an issue at all. In fact the only step I had an issue with was Step 15 (pushing the logic board free) and that's because I wasn't pushing hard enough. Overall, a little scary to crack open something brand new that's $1k but I was able to pull it off without issue. (thankfully). Now this Mac mini is running with 32GB + 3 monitors and should last me the next 4 years till Apple updates it again.

Craig Miller - 返信

My upgrade went pretty much okay. Easier than I thought. Antenna wire snapped right back on, motherboard slid out without much effort and memory modules were easy to remove and seat. Only problem I had was a stripped head on a fan Torx T6 screw on reassembly. I must not have had the driver seated into the screw correctly. Screw is tight so all okay for now. Booted up and shows the 32GB of RAM. Need to find a new screw and hope the old one comes out. I know I didn’t crank it down. Any idea where to find that screw?

Mike Buettner - 返信

Yes that angle of attack should probably be emphasized in detail in Step 8 - good point!

I was like WHAT? Thankfully I have my cheater glasses (old eyes) and I was able to see the angle of attack clearly under magnification.

Roger Alexander -

Step 8 - make it more clear the ‘rubber grommeted’ screws are ‘captive screws’ and they are specifically the yellow screws holing the front of the air box to the heat sink - not the red screws which are removed completely during this process.

Step 15 - for me it was necessary to use the blue pry tools employed in the opening of the bottom cover to assist in ‘freeing’ the main board from the housing - probably not everyone will encounter this but after some serious pushing on the heat sink without result, I fell back to this step. I pushed and the left side budged, but only slightly. So I started on that edge at the ‘case / port mounts of the mainboard seal’ with the blue pry tools and boom it popped free and I was able to complete the step as described to free the mainboard completely from the case…..

Roger Alexander - 返信

Step 19 - 22 I think it should be made clear that there are rubber grommets that serve at the ram shield ‘feet’ and they can be remove by sliding them in the same direction you slid the Ram shield to remove it. then you can replace the ram - replace the ‘rubber feet’ and then the Ram Shield. I preferred this method to ‘fumbling around that rubber to access the clips to free the ram. This step should definitely be included.

Great tutorial - easy to follow - thanks man!

Roger Alexander - 返信

Hi Rod,

On Step 3 it says to “Remove six TR6 Torx security screws…of the following lengths: Three 4.1 mm screws; Three 1.8 mm screws”

Is this a typo? How can it be that one TR6 screwdriver can remove two different sizes of screws/

Thank you for your help.

Ken Klippenstein - 返信

Ken,

It is not a typo the screws are different sizes but require the same T6 Torx to remove them. The Larger serve as the mount points for the rubber case bottom and are in fact what you used the pry tool in steps 1 and 2 to remove the bottom cover ‘from’.

Hope this helps.

Roger

Roger Alexander -

TR6 is the head size, which is shared by both screws. The millimeter measurements are the lengths of the screws from head to the bottom of the shaft, not across the width of the head.

Sam Lionheart -

This guide is excellent. I would have been stuck at removing the logic board without it! Sure glad I bought the iFixit toolkit on Black Friday. What I installed was Ballistix Sport DDR4-2666 (2x16GB). But Mac reports it is running at 2400MHz, not 2666. Otherwise it is working great. Has anyone been able to correct RAM speeds? On a PC I’d fiddle with BIOS settings and kick in the XMP profile, but is there anything I can do on a Mac?

chris - 返信

Unfortunately I &&^&@@ up on step 13.

I was afraid to pull on the LED wire and had no grip on the plug. The I tried to wedge with a knife from below and the whole socket including the plug came loose from the board.

I know now this was stupid! Probably I should have lifted on the wire itself, right?

Do you think the tiny connections from the socket can be soldered again by somebody more professional?

Maarten - 返信

@sikko Highly likely it can be fixed by somebody with the right skills and soldering rig. Fortunately I believe that socket is only for the little indicator LED on the front, so it’s likely not a mission-critical item. You can probably put it back together and ignore it. If I could pick one thing to break, that would be it ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

@sikko Highly likely it can be fixed by somebody with the right skills and soldering rig. Fortunately I believe that socket is only for the little indicator LED on the front, so it’s likely not a mission-critical item. You can probably put it back together and ignore it. If I could pick one thing to break, that would be it ;)

Jeff Suovanen - 2 hours ago

Yes Jeff, I put the mini together yesterday and found that everything was working okay (with 32 GB of RAM) except for the LED light. Today I went to an electronics repair guy, who soldered the socket back in place. That made me happy again. He was professional and really nice guy and did not even charge me anything for this soldering of the LED socket! So fortunately all is fine again.

I noticed now there is a warning at Step 13. Very good! I don’t know if that warning was there yesterday; at least yesterday I did not notice it.

Maarten - 返信

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