I just followed the instructions here on a 2017 15" MacBook Pro. Some clarifications to help anyone else attempting this...
Yes, it absolutely sucks removing the Touch Bar - you will have to remove the logic board and both fans to remove and replace the cables to the Touch ID button on one side and the Touch Bar on the other. You will NOT need to remove the screen, just the motherboard. You can start prying up, smashing, chipping and chiseling away the old Touch Bar after the Touch ID button is fully removed.
A heatgun can help but you will probably still melt something. Be sure to remove the top two rows of keys if you use one and BE CAREFUL! Also read how to remove the butterfly keys if you’ve never done it before. The heat gun is not necessary however and the Jimmy Tool from the essentials toolkit referenced below can be used to scrape up the remaining glue using an up-and-down scraping motion once the old Touch Bar is obliterated and it will be obliterated, it doesn’t just come off.
Tips:
Go slow, very slow, know what you're doing for every step. Be gentle with the cables. Read the guide for removing the screen on the machine as it relates to removing the logic board, it describes how to remove some tricky parts including the flat cables with a flip-up lock. The two cables at the lower left and right of the motherboard just lift up and out but are glued down. Just pull them up, not away from the connector.
Take a good picture of the logic board once the bottom cover is off before you do anything for reference later if you need it.
Take notes about what each part is as you remove it, where it was physically found, and what bit the screws are for reconstructing (use a project mat unless you have another strategy). When removing screws, be slow and use adequate downward force to avoid stripping them as you will be totally screwed if you do.
Final tip: Go slow, very slow, know what you’re doing for every step.
Recommended tools:
Essentials Toolkit - Essential Electronics Toolkit
P3 bit (not in kit) - iFixit Precision 4 mm Screwdriver Bit
Tesa Tape - Tesa 61395 Tape
(optional and helpful) Project Mat - Magnetic Project Mat
Necessary bits: T3, T5, TR8, P2, P5
I can happily say my MacBook finally works again and I can put it to sleep without it freezing when waking (or becoming a brick with that “security update” upon startup when upgrading to Mojave).
Thank you for this post and tips from other folks! It was a fun project to do but did take me several hours to complete so give yourself adequate time or plan to work on it in a couple of sessions. Good luck if you’re embarking on the same repair, it is possible!
16 件のコメント
@danj thanks man for your support! i will give it a try and most likely film everything/post it and make my first contribution to this great community =)
Magd さんによる
Hi there. Was wondering if you were successful in replacing the touch bar and if so, did you actually make a video?
Hasith Ediriweera さんによる
I'm having similar problems. My touch bar is gone and macbook bricks or takes too long to function on wake and sometimes decides to reboot itself. I took a quick look inside and the logic board looks fine. Everything else works perfectly. If it wasn't for the occasional restarts and bricking on wake I could bear not having a touch bar. Would replacing the touch bar solve these issues?
tressful さんによる
If your touch bar is not functional it will mess up the OS as the interface driver between your TB will crash! So yes you will need to get it fixed.
Dan さんによる
This is exactly what happened to my 15" -- the touchbar gave up the ghost. The observed behavior was the computer would not wake from sleep and panic/restart. Upon loading up in Mojave, some "security update", that according to my research on the internet was a firmware update for the touchbar, would be forced and fail preventing startup.
This issue was fixed for me entirely by replacing the touchbar with a working one. It's definitely a somewhat unpleasant experience to pry the existing one out but I think was worth it.
FWIW having a USB-C ethernet adapter plugged in allowed me to boot the machine, but I was unable to find any config/software solution to prevent the panic-on-wake issue.
Justin Rennell さんによる
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