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Kenmore elite frige not cooling

Hello. I have a Kenmore elite fridge, that isn't cooling. It's a little over a year old, shouldn't be anything major.

Called local repair guy, paid a $30 service call, said was out of freon. I ordered bullet piercing value and got can stop leak with freon. After hooking everything up, the gauge was reading it has freon. So paid service call for nothing lol.

Looking for advice on what to do next. No error codes, fan and compressor are running, just not cooling.

Model number is 795.74023.411

Thanks in advance, great site. Been reading a lot of articles on here.

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Was thinking about just ordering a thermostat, seeing if that's the problem. Hate to start buying unneeded parts, until find right one.

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Have the same problem and like to see if any one found a solution I bought mine from sears and can get nowhere by talking to them plz help

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I have the 795.74022.411 Kenmore Elite Refrigerator temp varies between 39-53 degrees. The freezer 15-30 degrees?

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I have same model and it just stooped working today - any fixes - its 2 years old - think LG makes it for them

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I spent $3k on a Kenmore Elite model $ 79574023 and the refrigerator and freezer stopped working yesterday. The Sears repair tech failed to show up today after I took the day off and rescheduled for Friday. In the meantime, I have a refrigerator that doesn't work and family coming in for the Christmas holiday.

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Hi @zookster ,

What is not cooling the fridge, the freezer or both?

Which fan is running? The evaporator fan, the compressor fan or both?

The evap fan will not run with the doors open -don't want to blow cold air out the door - so you'll have to listen for it running. Close and open door and listen if you can hear it start / stop with door close / open.

Is the evaporator getting icy cold? It is behind a panel in the freezer compartment as is the evap fan.

Here is a link to the parts for your fridge. It is handy as it gives an idea of the general location of the parts

Update (02/12/2018)

Hi @zookster ,

I know you said that you checked the refrigerant but do you know that for the Kenmore Elite series appliances (refrigerators) that there is a warranty of Five Years on the Sealed Refrigerant System and Ten Years on the Linear Compressor This is not as good as it sounds. After 1 year you still have to pay for the labour to get it repaired under warranty, just not the parts. Something to think about if you find that the compressor is faulty.

Here is the link to the warranty provisions. Scroll down to refrigerators

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Will check the parts today, and let you know.

The fan I checked is behind the fridge, along with compressor. Both are running but the lines aren't cold to the touch. Like the compressor is running but not engaged.

Neither side is cold btw.

Thanks for the link Jayeff. Appreciate your help and will post what I find out.

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Hi @zookster ,

If neither side of the compressor is cold, are the condenser coils warm or hot?

If not it means that there is no refrigerant being pumped through the system, so perhaps the compressor is faulty. You did say that you checked the freon. Did it have the correct pressure?

If the condenser coils are hot then you'll have to check if the evap unit and fan is iced up or not.

The evap fan blows cold air throughout the freezer and also into the fridge as well. If the evap fan is not working the freezer will be cold near the evap unit but not elsewhere in the freezer.

If the unit and fan is iced over, this means that either the defrost heater is not working, the defrost timer is not working, the control board is faulty etc.

The defrost cycle varies between makers. It usually occurs once every 8 -12 hours of the fridge running and lasts for about 20-30 minutes. The compressor is switched off as are the fans and the heater turned on. This allows any ice to melt and drain away. The temp in the freezer goes up to 32 deg F (0 deg C). when it reaches this usually the ice has already melted, due to heater, and the compressor is started again to drive the freezer back down to 0 deg F (-20 deg C) with the evap fan running

If the evap unit is not iced over, check that the evap fan works (mark a fan blade, close the door for a few moments then open door and see if marked blade has shifted. Also check that the evap unit is icy cold. BEWARE you can literally stick to it with your fingers if you touch it and it is working correctly. Wear dry gloves to feel.

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I put my cell phone on record with a light then shut the refrigerator doors, to verify that the evap. fan is turning.

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No fix for mind either, it's the compressor which is an epidemic on these LG refrigerators. They only last anywhere between one to three years. And like stated above no one wants to work on them. I did get a local repair guy to come out as soon as he looked at it he said throw it away and buy a new one. He said Samsung and LG make the worst refrigerators on the market with the least warranties. He said I know it's horrible news, I would love to take your money, but you need to cut your losses and buy a reliable refrigerator. I was advised putting any money into my LG refrigerator would be a waste because it would develop the same problem in short-order again. He said purchase either GE, Whirlpool, or Frigidaire. I opted for a new Frigidaire with a 5 year warranty

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I have the same issue. I found the technical papers with some primitive troubleshooting procedures but enough to get an idea of what is going on. It says to check the voltage level on the main controller board connector to the compressor, “CON201”. With the compressor connector disconnected, unplugging the fridge and pluggin it in again and measure the the voltage on “CON201”. After 30 seconds it should go to 200VAC. Mine did not. The measurements were jumping all over from about 12VAC to 70VAC. The sheet recommended testing the voltage with the compressor connector connected and after 10 minutes check the voltage on “CON201” (you will have to push test leads into back of connector to make contact). It should be 80VAC. Mine was not. It was all over the place like the other measurement. So the next morning the fridge is suddenly operating normally again. I decided the check the running voltage at “CON201” again. It is still jumping all over but this time it is jumping up above 100VAC. Don’t know how long it will work and I don’t trust it. It may have been stuck in defrost mode but the only way to fix the issue seems to be to replace the main controller. Getting the part will take days as most places don’t stock it.

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Thanks allot for the info!

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We are on our second Kenmore junk elite model 795.740 31 cu ft. First stopped cooling with no error codes, called home warranty service and the sent Sears out. What a cluster. They ordered parts to test the Freon, one week, then more parts, two more weeks, fianally said it was a Freon leak somewhere in the cabinet somewhere would not be able to repair the unit. One month without a fridge and home warranty paid most of the money to replace. We purchased the same unit again. My wife is not happy as less than 3 years later we are in the same situation and waiting for the sears third party to come out and tell us what’s wrong. No error codes. Top is near 40-47 and freezer below is high 20s.

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Same problem here. Refrigerator is slightly more than a year old. Completely stopped cooling. Couple hundred dollars of food trashed or given away. Sears repairman came out and said the compressor needed to be replaced. Ten days waiting on parts. On the seventh day the refrigerator started working again. Technician finally returned to finish the job. Everything operates normally with no error codes. Says there is nothing he can do and to call back if it happens again. Yeah.... right. Another $95 bill and nothing to show for it. It appears to be a common occurrence for these refrigerators to stop working for no known reason, and Kenmore has no fix for it.

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I believe the refrigerator keeps getting stuck in a defrost mode. By placing it in and out of the demo mode I am able to get the refrigerator working again (sometimes for a few days and sometimes for a few weeks). This is done by depressing the refrigerator temperature and icemaker buttons simultaneously for five seconds. I also opted to purchase the one-year Sears warranty for $200. Now they are on the hook for parts, labor, service calls. If they can’t fix it, they replace it. Unfortunately, this was the only real option I had at the time.

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I don’t know if this has anything to do with my refrigerator working again, but after a week of no cooling or freezing I put it in and out of demo mode a couple of times. The next day it started working and has worked now for several months. I don’t know, but it doesn’t cost anything to try and see if it works.

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I did this, and nothing happened.

Then I unplugged the power from the wall,

and then re-inserted the power plug to 120 VAC.

Then the compressor and evaporator fan started

running!

Only problem, is the 20u450VAC starting cap is

probably still bad, since it was only reading 33VAC,

instead of the the 80VAC called out in the manual.

I'm going to Grainger in the morning and see about

a 40u450VAC cap, and see if this will "kick-start"

the compressor better. The only good part is the '

compressor windings must still be intact, even after

running at this low voltage, and being excessively HOT!

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My Kenmore Elite french door, dual evaporator refrigerator also died at 2.5 years. It was the compressor. The part was covered under warranty, but the labor was 350.00 to install (in addition to the 99.00 initial fee to diagnose it). I had them ship me the parts (compressor and filter/drier), and I installed them myself since I have the tools and some experience. It is working fine now, but I suspect it will fail again within a couple years. From what I’m reading these are terrible products. I will not buy another and will tell everyone I know to avoid kenmore. (Actually, this is an LG refrigeration system inside sold under the Kenmore name). What a total joke to call it “Elite”. So sad. Sears used to stand for better quality.

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Kenmore elite less than 2 years old stopped cooling/freezing a few months ago. We called a tech out. He said the control panel needed to be replaced so I ordered a new one. The day it arrived the fridge started working again after I put it in and out of demo mode several times over several days like someone else here suggested. We decided to hold onto the part for a little bit. A month and a half later and it stops cooling/freezing again. Got a tech out to look at it and he pulled the drawer completely off and said there was no freeze pattern which means the compressor isn’t working. The compressor is covered by Sears, but not the labor. In the meantime we have bought a Whirlpool. (Just an FYI, the Sears 5 year warranty was over $1000 so we didn’t get it. The Lowe’s and Home Depot warranties are less than $300 for 5 years and you get 30% of it back if you don’t use it. Also when you purchase the water filters after the first one, you can submit the receipt and get half your money back during the 5 years.) I still have a large piece of junk sitting in the garage that I’m trying to figure out what to do with.

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It is common for these refrigerators to have bad relays , this is why it is running erratic, and probably not sending power down to the compressor, someone who knows what they are doing can replace the relays. I do this all the time, I am a appliance technician.

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No, GE fridges have the bad relay on the 942 board, NOT the LG/Elite models. I almost NEVER replace an LG control board for not cooling issues, Almost 99.99% the bad linear compressor.

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Okay, first, is the freezer working, but not the fridge? If so, the vent is clogged. Air flows through a vent in between the fridge and freezer. Two things to do would be to defrost the system by turning it off. After it is fully defrosted, clean it, open the vent and clean it, check for anything that could block air flow. Plug it back in and feel for air flow, especially between then fridge and freezer.

Also, listen to hear the compressor kick off. If you do not hear it go off, then you may need a kickstarter. It's like a giant capacitor you attach to the fridge's compressor to get it to turn over. You can order one online or buy one at a fridge repair store.

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Okay, first, is the freezer working, but not the fridge? If so, the vent is clogged. Air flows through a vent in between the fridge and freezer. Two things to do would be to defrost the system by turning it off. After it is fully defrosted, clean it, open the vent and clean it, check for anything that could block air flow. Plug it back in and feel for air flow, especially between then fridge and freezer.

Also, listen to hear the compressor kick off. If you do not hear it go off, then you may need a kickstarter. It's like a giant capacitor you attach to the fridge's compressor to get it to turn over. You can order one online or buy one at a fridge parts replacement store.

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I just checked for what Jayeff mentioned earlier.

I can hear the fan running in the fridge, and it shuts off when door is opened.

The one in the rear freezer panel, is not running at all. Would this not let it cool at all, or would just build up ice?

Neither side is cooling, to the other guys trying to help. This model doesn't have the relay on compressor like most do.

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What did you find out? My compressor is running also but not cooling anything...

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I have the same problem. So I'm interested in knowing what you found out as well.

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I just have the same problem. Fridge not cooling at all on both, freezer and fridge compartments. Both fans run. I noticed that the freezer fan goes on when I open the freezer door too. The compressor gets hot as usual but the liquid line doesn't get cold and the condenser coil is not getting hot. I checked the coils, they're ok, no fault codes either. Any response would be appreciated.

Thank you

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I have the same issue right now. Need to know how to proceed!

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Same problem here. Both running but not cooling. Trying to get service thru warranty is impossible. I'll never buy Kenmore Elite appliances again.

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Any updates? We have the same issues. Brought it to repair store and they said it may be the mother board.

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I replaced the main board but it didn't help. Fridge is still down. I already bought new fridge and this is my garage project. When I fix it I'll get rid of it.

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@Melissaann501 did you get any news on possible solutions?

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No. There is no one in our area who fixes LG or Samsung made refrigerators. We took the next available repair appointment with Sears which is Wednesday, January 9. I wish I had better news. As soon as we get an answer from them, I will post.

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So, did your warranty cover the cost of replacement? The inside of the manual states a 10 year warranty on the compressor.

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Any possible solutions?

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Had the sears repair guy visit regarding kenmore elite fridge not cooling only 3 years old. Compressor shot ordered new one under warranty. Call out fee $99 wait 3-4 weeks for technician to return and install new compressor another $260. LG junk never again. All the while sears try and up sell monthly warranty on all your kenmore purchased items for $50 a month.

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Wow…. sounds like were all in the same boat here, approx 4 years ago we purchased a Kenmore elite fridge and just last month the 2nd compressor went out just the same. Turns out that when the sears tech came and installed the new compressor the first time, he informed us that it was a bad design from LG and that the condensing coil had to also be changed out at the same time with the compressor due to the fact that the condensing coil was made out of aluminum and not steel. The problem with the condensing coil being aluminum is that over time, the refrigerant starts to break down the condenser (being aluminum) and the small contaminants start to float within the system and that can cause the capillary tube to become plugged and not cycle any refrigerant within the system so cooling effect doesn’t take place. Just last week I decided to put my refrigerant gauges on the system and exactly what i had expected, when i checked out the pressures on the gauges the high side gauge was reading approx 110 PSIG so i knew that the compressor was trying to push the gas, and the low side was in the negative side where it was actually in a vacuum. Just to inform most of you out there a refrigeration system is never supposed to run into a vacuum state, it might be around 5PSI and that would be if the coils were frozen but never into a vacuum, especially when the evaporator and freezer coils are as warm as they are. And so when I see that the low side of the system is in a vacuum state and the output side of the compressor is reading 110 PSIG pressure then there is a restriction some where in the system. usually at the front side of the cap tube therefor not allowing the gas to boil off in the coils and driving down temps to get cold. One more thing to think about, if by some chance the service tec didn’t use dry nitrogen to pressurize and flush out debris within the system after installing the new compressor then the system could still be contaminated and another failure is bound to happen. Looks like i’ll be repairing my own fridge since i cant depend on a sears tec to get it right the first time especially after purchasing this unit with a warranty. So looks like i’ll be disassembling the new compressor from the lines and back flushing the entire system with FJC 2032 Flush Solvent and dry nitrogen. Dry nitrogen is used instead of the 404A gas so as not to send it into the environment (Would really hate to get caught doing this and loose my refrigeration licence) If you get the chance check out this Utube video (Clearing a blockage - J D Nel Refrigeration) to understand exactly what needs to be done to remove the blockage and hopefully put your fridge back into service.. And yes one more thing to remember, always make sure that your fan and condenser is as clean as possible so that your compressor doesn’t take a chance of running to hot and cooking the oil inside the compressor and plugging up the refrigerant lines.

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Kenmore Elite 795.7402 is notorious for linear compressor issues. Buyer Beware!!!!

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The quote was $750 to repair, so we scrapped it. During diagnostic appt, tech tries to sell extended warranty. It's a shady business practice at best. Don't buy from Sears. They have a poor reputation for quality and service.

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Has anyone found the fix to this? Is it really the compressor that goes bad? I read a comment on here where the voltage was all over the place during testing the voltage on the compressor. Mine is doing the same thing but on the fridge diagram it states to replace the main control board if it fails that test. I ordered a new one for 180 off ebay. Hopefully that fixes it but i have high doubts it will due to reading this last comment regards the compressor. This is a huge flaw on these refrigerators. We shouldnt have to take a hit on food expenses and repairs. We all need to get together for a lawsuit. Everything is working on my fridge its just not cooling. Fans lights bottons no error codes. Compressor runs constantly without kicking out. Compressor lines are warm to the touch and condenser coils are not getting hot like they should. Please help if anyone has an answer to the issue. Im already leaning towards the compressor failing. Thanks to all in advance

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Well I can tell you that in my case the compressor voltage was indeed all over the place and the board was fine. The compressor was the problem. It had the exact same symptoms you describe. This circuit board does some strange things to the drive voltage. Seems to ramp up very slowly, then sense the load and adjust continuously. I guess they have to go to extremely complicated designs to get a huge unit like this with two evaporators to run on such a tiny amount of refrigerant (4.75oz). Even after I replaced the compressor it took hours for the pressures to stabilize and about 24 hours before the thing cooled properly. It has been working perfectly for a couple months now (34 fridge and 0 freezer holding steady), but from what I've read I don't expect it to last too long.

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After all the headaches with sears and spending hours and hours and i mean over 8 hrs on the phone every single say being transfered from department to department, i gave up. Compressor and freon was covered under warranty but they wanted 600 for labor so i decided to buy a compressor online and install it myself. 180 for compressor and 30 dollars in silver rods needed for brazing the lines.. and some freon… i have everything done on my own for under 250. Fridge works fine now but it seems to run 45 mins at a time to an hour and only shut off for 4-5 min or so and then compressor kicks back on… any ideas? This is a really horrible fridge….. we love it but hate it at the same time…. i dont think i remember it running that long and only 4-5 min rest time for the compressor….doesnt seem right to me. Any advice will be appreciated…

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Heath witherow さん、ありがとうございました!
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