オリジナル投稿者： firstname.lastname@example.org ,
Wow…. sounds like were all in the same boat here, approx 4 years ago we purchased a Kenmore elite fridge and just last month the 2nd compressor went out just the same. Turns out that when the sears tech came and installed the new compressor the first time, he informed us that it was a bad design from LG and that the condensing coil had to also be changed out at the same time with the compressor due to the fact that the condensing coil was made out of aluminum and not steel. The problem with the condensing coil being aluminum is that over time, the refrigerant starts to break down the condenser (being aluminum) and the small contaminants start to float within the system and that can cause the capillary tube to become plugged and not cycle any refrigerant within the system so cooling effect doesn’t take place. Just last week I decided to put my refrigerant gauges on the system and exactly what i had expected, when i checked out the pressures on the gauges the high side gauge was reading approx 110 PSIG so i knew that the compressor was trying to push the gas, and the low side was in the negative side where it was actually in a vacuum. Just to inform most of you out there a refrigeration system is never supposed to run into a vacuum state, it might be around 5PSI and that would be if the coils were frozen but never into a vacuum, especially when the evaporator and freezer coils are as warm as they are. And so when I see that the low side of the system is in a vacuum state and the output side of the compressor is reading 110 PSIG pressure then there is a restriction some where in the system. usually at the front side of the cap tube therefor not allowing the gas to boil off in the coils and driving down temps to get cold. One more thing to think about, if by some chance the service tec didn’t use dry nitrogen to pressurize and flush out debris within the system after installing the new compressor then the system could still be contaminated and another failure is bound to happen. Looks like i’ll be repairing my own fridge since i cant depend on a sears tec to get it right the first time especially after purchasing this unit with a warranty. So looks like i’ll be disassembling the new compressor from the lines and back flushing the entire system with '''FJC 2032 Flush Solvent''' and dry nitrogen. Dry nitrogen is used instead of the 404A gas so as not to send it into the environment (Would really hate to get caught doing this and loose my refrigeration licence) If you get the chance check out this Utube video (Clearing a blockage - J D Nel Refrigeration) to understand exactly what needs to be done to remove the blockage and hopefully put your fridge back into service.. And yes one more thing to remember, always make sure that your fan and condenser is as clean as possible so that your compressor doesn’t take a chance of running to hot and cooking the oil inside the compressor and plugging up the refrigerant lines.