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A lawn mower made by the American Company Toro

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Why 22" personal pace toro mower keeps stripping drive wheels

have replaced wheels twice. keeps stripping plastic gears

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Probably because the wheel mounting plates are not parallel with the mower body. Mine were "toed in" on each side. In my case the mounting plate was "gold colored". I installed a spacer behind the wheel mounting bolt and the mower body. To see if this is the problem remove the wheel. Take off the inside dust cover and reinstall the wheel. Look at the plastic teeth of the wheel and the metal gear on the transaxle shaft. If gears are not meshed correctly grab the part of the tire that faces the front of the mower and pull it away from the mower. If the wheel and mounting plate move away from the mower and seats the gears correctly then you need to put a spacer (I used a slightly oversized nut to cover the wheel bolt threads sticking through the mounting plate) and then release the wheel and the nut (spacer) becomes pinned between the mounting plate and the mower body. Because the nut covers the inside threads when you go to adjust the height of the wheels the pinned nut will move up and down between the plate and mower body. I have read other posts that numerous parts were replaced to try to correct this problem. Nothing on my mower was worn so I just tried this and it worked perfectly. Hope this helps.

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Hi

I have used your suggestion and It worked . This is perfect observation.

My question is the thickness of the nut . I did pick like you suggested slightly ticker however if use a bit ticker would it actual make the think worse ?

Many thanks

Sam

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Hi Sam. Thanks for the reply. You are the first person to ever respond to this solution. It was a perfect fix. Most people want to replace parts. Anyway I think through trial and error I settled on a 3/8" thick 9/16 sized nut. Did you read each comment on the flickr photos attached. Here is the link again. I just tried a few different sized nuts with wheel dust cover off to see what made the plate parallel. Good luck. https://www.flickr.com/photos/24045457@N...

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Bad design. Had good steel to steel and messed them up. Get the conversion kit (two drive pinions and two old style steel gear wheels) and they will last longer.

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Hello tobyl120,

I know I'm tardy to the party, but does this conversion kit have a part number you could share? Thanks

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I’ve got a 20334 whose sprockets are not worn evenly. I learned this while trying to find out why the mower is so hard to push without the personal pace engaged. I’ve lubed the bearings and adjusted the handle cable. The return spring affixed to the transmission bracket flops around, which tells me it’s not a partial engagement at rest condition. There are only two other things I’ve noticed:

  1. The transmission shaft travels from left to right and vice versa more than an inch. This strikes me as a component failure, but I don’t know how to confirm it.
  2. If I relieve the tension on the ride height brackets by extending the handle to point at the ground, the shaft and sprocket turn more freely. This I can’t explain, as it doesn’t seem to be putting direct stress on the sprocket or shaft when the ride height handle is at an appropriate position.

Are there any technical references that might help me determine if these conditions are normal? I’m more than happy to replace the transmission, but I don’t want to throw new parts at a scenario that may make them prematurely fail. Any insight would be greatly appreciated if anyone is inclined. Thanks

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Your second statement about the wheel height adjustment is the problem with this mower. When you select any height position you are putting horizontal pressure on the gold colored wheel mounting plate causing it to "toe in" and not meshing the nylon gear teeth correctly with the metal pinion on the transaxle shaft. This is a bad design that is on different mowers. You proved this by moving the height adjuster all the way down and took the pressure off the mounting plate. The way I corrected this problem is to counteract this pressure by installing a spacer about 180 degrees from the metal sprocket which put it right behind the wheel mounting bolt and the mower body. Here is the link to my fix. Please read the comment with each photo to understand why I did what I did. Fixed this over 3 years ago and still works perfectly. Did not have to replace any parts and only removed both wheels to install and check position of the spacer.. https://www.flickr.com/photos/24045457@N...

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I have a different problem The little steel gear inside of the front wheel keeps rubbing the tips of the plastic teeth off of the wheel. I bet I have lost a couple dozen wheels. There are several causes for this. When you are mowing and that drive wheel bumps into a solid object such as a fence post or a car tire, That will stop the wheel but the drive belt does not slip. The gear keeps turning against that stopped wheel and eats the teeth right out of the wheel. I had to abandon my nice 100% drive using a 1/2 wide belt, and go back to a 3/8 belt that slips so much. Another problem is the soft plastic those wheels are made of, can’t do anything about that. The third issue I would like suggestions on. If the wheel spindle was just 1/10 inch farther from the driveshaft and its gear, there would be much deeper engagement of the two gears, and it would not just wipe the tips of the gear teeth off. I intend to try busting the wheel spindle out of the plate, and rewelding it on at 1/10 inch farther to the rear. Has anyone done that? Did it work? Does anyone have a less radical solution?

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What type of wheel teeth do your have ? Is it the center mounted nylon gear or does the wheel have small teeth around the outer edge of the wheel. Can your provide a photo of the worn gear?

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joe k さん、ありがとうございました!
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