はじめに

ここでは、ボタンとトリガーボタンを修理するために下部基板を取り外す方法を紹介します。

バッテリーパックのカバーを外します。
  • バッテリーパックのカバーを外します。

  • バッテリーを取り外します。

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ナイロン製スパッジャーを使ってこの作業を行ってください。ここではメタルスパッジャーを使用しています。
  • ナイロン製スパッジャーを使ってこの作業を行ってください。ここではメタルスパッジャーを使用しています。

  • サイドハンドルを外すため、コントローラーをしっかりと握ります。スパッジャーをフロントとハンドルプレートの間にできた隙間に差し込みます。

  • スパッジャーを前後に動かしながら、フロントプレートからサイドプレートを外します。サイドプレートの隙間全体にスパッジャーを動かして作業を進めてください。

Start prying the side plate off underneath the trigger, this makes it easier to disconnect the other clips connecting the side plate to the backplate.

Brandon - 返信

One you take it off, is it possible to click it back in?

Aiden Bear - 返信

As long as you don’t exceed the couple tons you need to take it off you should be able to put it back.

Brandon -

  • ラベルの裏のコントローラ中央部分に隠れたネジがついています。

  • ドライバーを使って、ラベルの中央部分の穴に向けて直接押し込んで穴を開けます。

    • もしラベルに穴を開けたくない場合はラベルを剥がしてください。

  • T8 安全トルクスネジ用のドライバーを使って、コントローラ裏側に留められた10mmネジを5本外します。

i damaged my screws. how do i get the screws out?

tenzin - 返信

wait. i just watched a video guide on ifixit's youtube channel about damaged screws. i'll try those methods.

tenzin - 返信

It's a t8 or t9 security bit btw, I got the top two out with a regular T8, but the bottom two and middle needed a T9 Security bit.

David Loper - 返信

All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.

John Dziedzic - 返信

Am I doing something wrong because I got the tool it said I needed and got the middle screw out but the others have a bump or something in the center of the screw and it won't fit.

kolton77 - 返信

The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger

Matej Skelo - 返信

These requires SECURITY Torx bits (they have a cannulated hole in the driver). I don't believe the iFixIt branded driver is cannulated but you can buy a set of bits from DeWalt DWAX200 which is overkill but has what you need.

jhighsmith - 返信

The driver that iFixIt sells is cannulated.

jhighsmith -

where do you get this dumb ass screw driver

Jake Zweier - 返信

iFixit Store #IF145-027-3

VauWeh - 返信

You can bypass it with a 1.5mm flathead.

Marianne Sandling - 返信

  • バックプレートを取り外します。

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  • フェイスプレートを取り外します。

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  • 予め振動用モーターをソケットから外しておいてください。

  • ハンダを除去し、モーターと基板をつないでいる赤と黒の導線を外します。

  • ハンダを除去し、上部基板につながっている黒とグレーの導線を外します。

  • モーターを外します。

  • はんだごてを使用する際は、周りの部品を損傷させないよう、また火傷しないように気をつけてください。

  • はんだごての使用方法は、こちらをご覧ください。

Steps 6-8 aren't completely necessary, and are very risky if you aren't good at soldering. It would seem the only reason to remove the motherboard and mess with all this soldering is just so you can reach both screws on the trigger in step 10. However, you can reach them already with a small-bodied screwdriver. Although you might have to rest the screwdriver on the black square processor to reach the bottom screw, it shouldn't damage the processor or motherboard to jimmy that screw out.

Robert Rapier - 返信

like mentioned by ‘Robert Rapier’ you can skip the de-soldering in most cases,

for example cleaning or changing the buttons is doable, but the grey and black wires are pretty short

and wired through the inner case so it can get a bit fiddly and you have to be careful not to damage them in the process.

If you have a soldering station around i would still recommend using it.

yKekS Yzz - 返信

  • モーターの台座付近にある2本の7mm T6ネジを外します。

Are these just T6 screws or Torx security T6 that is cannulated?

Kenan Vickstrom - 返信

  • 基板の中央付近をしっかりと握ります。

  • 基板を軽く前後に揺すりながら持ち上げて取り外します。

  • 基板を外す際にある程度の力が必要です。

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  • コントローラ前部のワイヤーを留めている黄色のテープを剥がします。

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  • トリガーの下側にある2つの7mm T6六角ネジを緩めます。

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  • トリガーのカバーを取り外します。

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  • マザーボードから半田付けされたワイヤを取り外します。

  • ソケットからランブルモータを取り出して、接続されたワイヤを引っ張ります。

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  • マザーボードに留められた6本のT6トルクスネジを外します。

Where can I find the connectors at for the motherboard??

lillarrypimp1993 - 返信

This guide completely skips the part about removing the trigger buttons. There are 2 screws per trigger that need to be removed so there are actually 10 T6 screws to remove.

Navy Vet 2015 - 返信

There’s also 2 small rumble packs under the trigger buttons that no one mentioned. Someone got lazy when writing this step.

Navy Vet 2015 - 返信

Hey @jasonasnes good catch! It looks like maybe they forgot to add the trigger/trigger rumble motor prerequisite, so I went ahead and added that in there. That guide makes no mention of how the rumble motors are attached, but I think they’re soldered to the motherboard, so I added a note to desolder those wires prior to removal. I think you could probably also just desolder those wires and leave the triggers in place when removing the motherboard, but I’m not certain! Hope that helps!

Sam Lionheart - 返信

@sam I was able to complete this with the missing information but thank you for updating it for those to come in the future. Minus these couple of discrepancies and it’s a great guide. Yes, all 4 of the rumble motors are soldered onto the upper motherboard. Step 6 actually highlights this with the exception of mentioning the 2 small rumble motors in the triggers. You bring up a good point, it might be possible to leave the triggers in place during this process. I used this guide as a teardown instead of as a replacement so I could refurbish the plastic shell and clean the interior of my day one controller so I completely stripped mine. However, I believe that the triggers could remain in place if your goal is to get to the lower motherboard.

Navy Vet 2015 - 返信

  • 樹脂製のツメを外し、上部バンパーを外します。ツメは表裏どちらにもあります。

  • ナイロン樹脂製のスパッジャの使用を推奨します。基板付近で金属のスパッジャを使用すると、デバイスを損傷する可能性があります。

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  • ホームボタン周りのカバーを持ち上げて外します。

  • スパッジャを使用して反対側から叩き出します。

  • ナイロン樹脂製のスパッジャの使用を推奨します。基板付近で金属のスパッジャを使用すると、デバイスを損傷する可能性があります。

  • この作業にはかなりの力を要します。

2 things missing in this step:

1) You will have to press down on the power button in order to release the plastic retaining piece.

2) The button that syncs the controller to the system completely separates from the plastic frame. If you're not careful you could lose the thing.

Navy Vet 2015 - 返信

Thanks NavyVet2015!

The sync button fell out on me and I was pondering what it was for a while.

Nothing is holding that little guy in so watch it!

CrazedCanuck18 - 返信

  • 下部基板を取り外します。

That’s the TOP motherboard.

Ken D. - 返信

まとめ

再度組み立てる際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

19 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

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Liam Gow

メンバー登録日: 2015年01月22日

3,206 ポイント

3のガイドは作成済み

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Cal Poly, Team 20-15, Maness Winter 2015 Cal Poly, Team 20-15, Maness Winter 2015人のメンバー

CPSU-MANESS-W15S20G15

5 メンバー

34のガイドは作成済み

Is de-soldering optional?

John Gonzalez - 返信

Considering the placement of wires attached by solder on both sides of the top board, it would be quite difficult to reach anything beneath it otherwise. I suppose it depends on what you're trying to achieve.

In any case, you might as well try to move it without desoldering if desoldering is going to be an issue. Make sure not to pull hard, though.

Liam Gow -

I have a question... Will the motherboard you can get at the store here work it the newer controllers with built in headphone jack?

ETHREAL1 - 返信

I would expect not, I'm afraid. The motherboards will probably have different circuitry, even if the shapes are the same, which they may not be.

Liam Gow -

The position/mounting of the LB and RB buttons on the motherboard piece between the day-one/sans-jack and the newer 3.5mm jack (non-Slim) boards are completely different.

The older revision motherboard has the mountings inverted (pointing downwards to the south end-headset attachment port- of the controller) compared to the newer ones.

The newer ones have the circuit with the bumper buttons mounted pointing to the north end toward the bumpers on the top of the controller.

icho - 返信

Quick question. What do you think the feasibility is of moving the thumbsticks and buttons via wiring away from the motherboard? Looking to build a specialized controller in a different form factor.

dengel72 - 返信

Quick question. I was disassembling my controller to fix something and noticed that the piece labeled R91 (the little grey square in the bottom center of the motherboard) looked as if it had been chipped. The part that is chipped is half of the top flat part of the grey piece. What is the purpose of this piece and is it something that will stop my controller from working properly?

I know nothing about this kind of stuff, and it's only the second controller I have ever taken apart so I'm sorry if this is a dumb question.

Thanks in advance!!

Lockout CE - 返信

My 3.5mm jack doesn’t work on my new Xbox one controller. I’m told it’s not even soldered in. How hard would it be to solder in place?

n.coxon - 返信

It depend on the size of the pins you a to sold it on , and the size of your soldering gun , but it’s pretty easy if you are a little experienced. But if it’s brand new , why don’t you send it back to the store ?

aristide nerot -

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