はじめに

This guide will show you how to remove the motherboards in order to access the buttons and triggers.

Remove the battery pack cover.
  • Remove the battery pack cover.

  • Remove batteries.

コメントを追加する

We recommend using a nylon spudger for this step. A metal spudger is shown. Grip the controller firmly to remove the side handles, wedging a spudger into the seam between the front and handle plates.
  • We recommend using a nylon spudger for this step. A metal spudger is shown.

  • Grip the controller firmly to remove the side handles, wedging a spudger into the seam between the front and handle plates.

  • Pry the side plate away from the front plate by moving the spudger back and forth. You will need to do this all the way around the side plate's seam.

Start prying the side plate off underneath the trigger, this makes it easier to disconnect the other clips connecting the side plate to the backplate.

Brandon - 返信

One you take it off, is it possible to click it back in?

Aiden Bear - 返信

As long as you don’t exceed the couple tons you need to take it off you should be able to put it back.

Brandon -

There is a hidden screw located in the middle of the controller behind the label. Use a screwdriver and punch a hole directly in the center of the label.
  • There is a hidden screw located in the middle of the controller behind the label.

  • Use a screwdriver and punch a hole directly in the center of the label.

    • You may also lift the label if you do not want to puncture it.

  • Remove the five 10mm screws located on the back of the controller using the T8 Security Torx Screwdriver.

i damaged my screws. how do i get the screws out?

tenzin - 返信

wait. i just watched a video guide on ifixit's youtube channel about damaged screws. i'll try those methods.

tenzin - 返信

It's a t8 or t9 security bit btw, I got the top two out with a regular T8, but the bottom two and middle needed a T9 Security bit.

David Loper - 返信

All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.

John Dziedzic - 返信

Am I doing something wrong because I got the tool it said I needed and got the middle screw out but the others have a bump or something in the center of the screw and it won't fit.

kolton77 - 返信

The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger

Matej Skelo - 返信

These requires SECURITY Torx bits (they have a cannulated hole in the driver). I don't believe the iFixIt branded driver is cannulated but you can buy a set of bits from DeWalt DWAX200 which is overkill but has what you need.

jhighsmith - 返信

The driver that iFixIt sells is cannulated.

jhighsmith -

where do you get this dumb ass screw driver

Jake Zweier - 返信

iFixit Store #IF145-027-3

VauWeh - 返信

You can bypass it with a 1.5mm flathead.

Marianne Sandling - 返信

Remove the backplate.
  • Remove the backplate.

コメントを追加する

Remove the faceplate.
  • Remove the faceplate.

コメントを追加する

You may let the rumble motors hang freely out of their sockets. De-solder the soldered joints while holding the red and black wires down on the top motherboard.
  • You may let the rumble motors hang freely out of their sockets.

  • De-solder the soldered joints while holding the red and black wires down on the top motherboard.

  • De-solder the black and gray wires that are attached to the top motherboard.

  • Remove the rumble motors and set them aside.

  • Be careful while using the soldering iron not to damage other components or hurt yourself.

  • For information on how to solder, click here.

Steps 6-8 aren't completely necessary, and are very risky if you aren't good at soldering. It would seem the only reason to remove the motherboard and mess with all this soldering is just so you can reach both screws on the trigger in step 10. However, you can reach them already with a small-bodied screwdriver. Although you might have to rest the screwdriver on the black square processor to reach the bottom screw, it shouldn't damage the processor or motherboard to jimmy that screw out.

Robert Rapier - 返信

like mentioned by ‘Robert Rapier’ you can skip the de-soldering in most cases,

for example cleaning or changing the buttons is doable, but the grey and black wires are pretty short

and wired through the inner case so it can get a bit fiddly and you have to be careful not to damage them in the process.

If you have a soldering station around i would still recommend using it.

yKekS Yzz - 返信

Unscrew the two 7mm T6 screws located near the rumble motor sockets.
  • Unscrew the two 7mm T6 screws located near the rumble motor sockets.

コメントを追加する

Firmly grip sides of motherboard near the middle.
  • Firmly grip sides of motherboard near the middle.

  • Lift upwards while slightly wiggling the motherboard forward and backward.

  • Lifting the motherboard will require some force.

コメントを追加する

Remove the yellow tape holding the wires in place on the front of the controller.
  • Remove the yellow tape holding the wires in place on the front of the controller.

コメントを追加する

Unscrew the two 7mm T6 Hex screws located on underside the triggers. Unscrew the two 7mm T6 Hex screws located on underside the triggers. Unscrew the two 7mm T6 Hex screws located on underside the triggers.
  • Unscrew the two 7mm T6 Hex screws located on underside the triggers.

コメントを追加する

Remove the trigger covers.
  • Remove the trigger covers.

コメントを追加する

Desolder the wires from the motherboard.
  • Desolder the wires from the motherboard.

  • Remove the rumble motors from its socket and pull the wire with it.

コメントを追加する

Remove the six T6 Torx screws located on the bottom motherboard. Remove the six T6 Torx screws located on the bottom motherboard.
  • Remove the six T6 Torx screws located on the bottom motherboard.

Where can I find the connectors at for the motherboard??

lillarrypimp1993 - 返信

This guide completely skips the part about removing the trigger buttons. There are 2 screws per trigger that need to be removed so there are actually 10 T6 screws to remove.

Navy Vet 2015 - 返信

There’s also 2 small rumble packs under the trigger buttons that no one mentioned. Someone got lazy when writing this step.

Navy Vet 2015 - 返信

Hey @jasonasnes good catch! It looks like maybe they forgot to add the trigger/trigger rumble motor prerequisite, so I went ahead and added that in there. That guide makes no mention of how the rumble motors are attached, but I think they’re soldered to the motherboard, so I added a note to desolder those wires prior to removal. I think you could probably also just desolder those wires and leave the triggers in place when removing the motherboard, but I’m not certain! Hope that helps!

Sam Lionheart - 返信

@sam I was able to complete this with the missing information but thank you for updating it for those to come in the future. Minus these couple of discrepancies and it’s a great guide. Yes, all 4 of the rumble motors are soldered onto the upper motherboard. Step 6 actually highlights this with the exception of mentioning the 2 small rumble motors in the triggers. You bring up a good point, it might be possible to leave the triggers in place during this process. I used this guide as a teardown instead of as a replacement so I could refurbish the plastic shell and clean the interior of my day one controller so I completely stripped mine. However, I believe that the triggers could remain in place if your goal is to get to the lower motherboard.

Navy Vet 2015 - 返信

Remove the bumpers by prying them off of the pegs that secure them, using a spudger.  They are located on the front and back of the controller. A standard nylon spudger is recommended for this step. Using a metal spudger near the motherboard as shown risks damaging your device.
  • Remove the bumpers by prying them off of the pegs that secure them, using a spudger. They are located on the front and back of the controller.

  • A standard nylon spudger is recommended for this step. Using a metal spudger near the motherboard as shown risks damaging your device.

コメントを追加する

Lift the piece surrounding the Home button off of its pegs. Pry it off of the other side, using a spudger on the pins.
  • Lift the piece surrounding the Home button off of its pegs.

  • Pry it off of the other side, using a spudger on the pins.

  • A standard nylon spudger is recommended for this step. Using a metal spudger near the motherboard as shown risks damaging your device.

  • Removing this piece may require a lot of force.

2 things missing in this step:

1) You will have to press down on the power button in order to release the plastic retaining piece.

2) The button that syncs the controller to the system completely separates from the plastic frame. If you're not careful you could lose the thing.

Navy Vet 2015 - 返信

Thanks NavyVet2015!

The sync button fell out on me and I was pondering what it was for a while.

Nothing is holding that little guy in so watch it!

CrazedCanuck18 - 返信

Remove the bottom motherboard.
  • Remove the bottom motherboard.

コメントを追加する

まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

17 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

Liam Gow

メンバー登録日: 2015年01月22日

3,013 ポイント

10のガイドは作成済み

チーム

Cal Poly, Team 20-15, Maness Winter 2015 Cal Poly, Team 20-15, Maness Winter 2015人のメンバー

CPSU-MANESS-W15S20G15

5 メンバー

29のガイドは作成済み

Is de-soldering optional?

John Gonzalez - 返信

Considering the placement of wires attached by solder on both sides of the top board, it would be quite difficult to reach anything beneath it otherwise. I suppose it depends on what you're trying to achieve.

In any case, you might as well try to move it without desoldering if desoldering is going to be an issue. Make sure not to pull hard, though.

Liam Gow -

I have a question... Will the motherboard you can get at the store here work it the newer controllers with built in headphone jack?

ETHREAL1 - 返信

I would expect not, I'm afraid. The motherboards will probably have different circuitry, even if the shapes are the same, which they may not be.

Liam Gow -

The position/mounting of the LB and RB buttons on the motherboard piece between the day-one/sans-jack and the newer 3.5mm jack (non-Slim) boards are completely different.

The older revision motherboard has the mountings inverted (pointing downwards to the south end-headset attachment port- of the controller) compared to the newer ones.

The newer ones have the circuit with the bumper buttons mounted pointing to the north end toward the bumpers on the top of the controller.

icho - 返信

Quick question. What do you think the feasibility is of moving the thumbsticks and buttons via wiring away from the motherboard? Looking to build a specialized controller in a different form factor.

dengel72 - 返信

Quick question. I was disassembling my controller to fix something and noticed that the piece labeled R91 (the little grey square in the bottom center of the motherboard) looked as if it had been chipped. The part that is chipped is half of the top flat part of the grey piece. What is the purpose of this piece and is it something that will stop my controller from working properly?

I know nothing about this kind of stuff, and it's only the second controller I have ever taken apart so I'm sorry if this is a dumb question.

Thanks in advance!!

Lockout CE - 返信

My 3.5mm jack doesn’t work on my new Xbox one controller. I’m told it’s not even soldered in. How hard would it be to solder in place?

n.coxon - 返信

It depend on the size of the pins you a to sold it on , and the size of your soldering gun , but it’s pretty easy if you are a little experienced. But if it’s brand new , why don’t you send it back to the store ?

aristide nerot -

コメントを追加する

統計データを表示:

過去 24時間: 9

過去 7 日: 102

過去 30 日: 486

今までの合計 24,661