はじめに

壊れた背面カメラを交換するための必須条件

指の爪やプラスチックの開口ツールを使って、背面カメラの左側の溝に差し込みます。
  • 指の爪やプラスチックの開口ツールを使って、背面カメラの左側の溝に差し込みます。

  • 丁寧に電話本体の裏側から背面カバーをひねりながらこじ開けます。

コメントを追加する

指の爪やプラスチックの開口ツールを使って、バッテリー右側端の下にある溝の中に差し込み、上向きに持ち上げます。
  • 指の爪やプラスチックの開口ツールを使って、バッテリー右側端の下にある溝の中に差し込み、上向きに持ち上げます。

  • 電話本体からバッテリーを取り出します。

The battery will need to be charged after it is placed in the phone. No one told me that and I bought a battery and thought it was bad. Keep the phone off and insert the charger. You will need to charge it for several hours before you can use the phone.

Diane Schumacher - 返信

hi there my grandson has a samsung galaxy s5 phone and it wont turn on and the screen is cracked what shall i do email me on cnngawaka@yahoo.com thanks charmaine ill wait for your replay

cnngawaka - 返信

  • 指の先を使って、マイクロSDカードをスロットからまっすぐ下に向けて押し出します。

  • マイクロSDカードを電話本体から取り出します。

I found removing the SIM/SD card with my fingertip a little difficult – not enough friction. So I used a 'rubber' (in US English it's called a pencil eraser or just simply, an eraser.

Simple, cheap (zero) and effective! :)

Cheers.

John

johnsg0053 - 返信

  • 上の手順を繰り替えして、SIMカードを取り出します。

Actually this isn’t as easy as it appears in the photo and instructions, since the SIM card does not have a notch that you can use to pull it out. In my experience I’ve found that the best way to remove the SIM card is by pressing down somewhat hard on the SIM card, and then push-pulling it outward.

OmniWeb Technical Education - 返信

  • プラスチックの開口ツールを使ってプラスチックのミッドフレームコネクターパネルを持ち上げます。

  • ピンセットを使ってコネクターパネルを掴み、取り出します。

  • 再組み立ての際にはパネル上に再利用するのに十分な接着剤が残っているはずです。再利用しない場合は、両ペンテープを使ってください。

In my experience I have always removed this Home button protector panel with ONLY a plastic opening tool, and I have never found adhesive beneath it.

OmniWeb Technical Education - 返信

  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ホームボタンのケーブルコネクターをソケットからまっすぐ引き上げて外します。

コメントを追加する

  • 次の手順ではiOpenerを使って電話本体のディスプレイアセンブリに留められた接着剤を温めます。iOpenerはより安全でより簡単なスクリーンの取り外しを可能にしてくれます。iOpenerの使用方法については、iOpenerの利用方法に従って、全ての注意項目を守ってください。

  • 温めたiOpenerを電話本体の左側に約90秒間載せします。

  • iOpenerを再度温めて電話本体の右側半分に載せます。

good location for a timer, I am taking my phone apart

andrew beals - 返信

¿se puede hacer con la pistola de calor?

Diego Alomoto - 返信

Si, puedes utilizar la pistola de calor también, pero ten cuidado ;-)

Sandra Hiller -

Otra opción es usar una “placa calefactora” que, según yo, es la opción mas “profesional” ya que con ella se puede limitar la temperatura, para que no se malogre la pantalla táctil (la “digitizador” detŕas del vídrio).

OmniWeb Technical Education -

Another option is to use a “hot plate” which, according to me, is the more “professional” option since with it you can limit the temperature, so that the touchscreen doesn’t get ruined (the “digitizer” behind the glass).

OmniWeb Technical Education - 返信

  • 次の手順では、開口ピックを使って正面パネルガラスに留められた接着剤を剥がします。指示された箇所のみに作業をしてください。接着剤から抵抗感を感じたら、開口ピックのスライドを止めてiOpenerを再度当ててください。

  • 開口ピックの先端をフロントガラスの右側下部の下に差し込みます。

I hope this helps others:

my screen was STRONGLY glued to the midframe, it was impossible to remove it without breaking it, be very careful with the copper adhesive in the midframe!!!

I can't even understand how this guide doesn't mention it properly!

Pedro - 返信

Yeah, the real trick with these types of screens is to measure (or just “have a feel for”) an adequate temperature with the heat pad (e.g. iOpener), or heat gun, or hot plate. First you have to heat up the screen just enough so that you can “break into” one side without breaking the bezel or the glass, and then verrrry carefully and verrrrry gradually insert plastic opening picks (or even playing cards) as you make progress around the exterior border of the phone. Whenever I do this, I always insert 5-6 objects (again, plastic picks or playing cards) before I fully remove the digitizer-glass assembly, which typically ends up as follows as I move around the exterior border: one pick at each of the four corners and one pick on each of the two sides. WARNING: DO NOT INSERT ANY OBJECT BENEATH THE GLASS MORE THAN A FEW MILLIMETRES FROM THE EXTERIOR BORDER.

OmniWeb Technical Education -

Thanks for the info guys! :-)

Tony - 返信

Wow seriously 100% ur going to break the LCD if this is the first time opening the phone this is why android is built disposable it now costs 60$ to fix a stupid 10$ part this fix is definitely not worth it

android=disposable

apple=a better way of life

I will never attempt to fix another android again

taylor britton - 返信

  • 開口ピックをディスプレイの右側に沿って下から上部に向けてスライドします。

This is not as easy as they make it seem in this guide. The real trick with these types of touchscreens is to properly measure (or just “have a feel for”) an adequate temperature with the heat pad (e.g. iOpener), or heat gun, or hot plate, that you use to heat the adhesive beneath the glass exterior of the digitizer-glass assembly. First you have to heat up the screen just enough so that you can “break into” one side without breaking the bezel or the glass, and then verrrry carefully and verrrrry gradually insert plastic opening picks (or even playing cards) as you make progress around the exterior border of the phone. Whenever I do this, I always insert 5-6 objects (again, plastic picks or playing cards) before I fully remove the digitizer-glass assembly, which typically ends up as follows as I move around the exterior border: one pick at each of the four corners and one pick on each of the two sides. WARNING: DO NOT INSERT ANY OBJECT BENEATH THE GLASS MORE THAN A FEW MILLIMETRES FROM THE EXTERIOR BORDER.

OmniWeb Technical Education - 返信

  • 開口ピックをデバイス本体のコーナー周辺でゆっくりとスライドして、本体上部のスピーカーグリルの手前で止めます。

Be sure not to nick and tear the capacitive touch chip interface that meets the LCD screen here! I caught it and didn't even feel the resistance. :-(

Play It Loud Computer Services - 返信

  • 電話本体上部に留められた接着剤はイヤホンスピーカー上部が細いストリップになっています。内部コンポーネントにダメージを与えないようスピーカー上部にそってピックをスライドします。

  • 電話本体の上部に沿って開口ピックをスライドします。ピックを奥まで差し込まないように特に注意しながら作業を進めてください。

I have been extra careful, and it did not prevent me to sever the flat cable in the upper left corner. The cable is very close and you should take extreme caution.

Neocray - 返信

  • 丁寧に上部左側コーナーまで開口ピックをスライドします。

  • 冷めた接着剤から抵抗感を感じたら、iOpenerを再度温めて電話の左側に載せてください。

コメントを追加する

  • 開口ピックを電話本体左側に沿い、下部に向けてスライドします。下部の角で作業を止めます。

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  • 開口ピックを電話本体の左側角の下全体をスライドします。

  • 次の作業では、iOpenerをホームボタン上に置きます。開口ピックを差し込んだままにします。

コメントを追加する

  • 温めたiOpenerをディスプレイアセンブリの下部の上に載せます。

  • この部分はデリケートなコンポーネントが含まれています。接着剤が十分温められて本体から剥がしやすくなっているか確認してください。

this IFIXIT IOpener how much are these

Raewyn Dowd - 返信

  • 本体の下側先端にはソフトボタンとホームボタンリボンケーブルが含まれています。開口ピックを奥まで差し込んでしまうと、これらのケーブルを切断してしまいます。ご注意ください。

  • 開口ピックの先をディスプレイの先端に差し込み、残りの接着剤を剥がします。

コメントを追加する

  • 開口ピックをひねりながら、電話本体からガラスを離します。

  • フロントパネルが簡単に取り外せない場合は、続けて接着剤を剥がしてください。

Be aware that there is adhesive on the inner parts of the screen. Plan on replacing this screen and digitizer as well.

AB Computer Services - 返信

  • フロントパネルが簡単に外れない場合は、先にソフトボタンケーブルの接着剤のみ剥がしてください。

  • これらのケーブルはとても薄く、簡単にダメージを与えてしまいます。ディスプレイアセンブリのみから接着剤を剥がします。ケーブルを切断しないようご注意ください。

  • ディスプレイ上のソフトボタンアイコンの下に開口ピックを差し込み、フロントパネル内部からボタンケーブルを外します。

Accidentally cut one of the side buttons. It wouldn't come out, the screen was badly cracked.

Nickoplier - 返信

Is there a replacement I can get for the soft buttons?

Nickoplier - 返信

My digitizer was glued to the chasis, the glass came up separately and the digitizer broke when I tried to pry it up.

ken - 返信

That’s actually probably because you might not have heated the sides of the screen (where the adhesive is located) enough before prying up on the exterior border of the glass part. It’s very difficult to know the tolerance limits of such devices if you’ve never seen them apart before, and as such one can easily get confused between where the glass ends and the digitizer begins. On my first smartphone repair I broke a digitizer, so I know how it feels.

OmniWeb Technical Education -

cum as putea să imi iau si eu displei pentru samsung galaxi s 5

GüL ayaz - 返信

  • ディスプレイアセンブリのホームボタン先端からわずかに持ち上げます。完全に外さないでください。

  • フロントパネルを完全に外さないでください。コネクターが接続されたままにします。

  • ホームボタンのフレックスケーブルを再利用する場合は、ホームボタンからケーブルを切断しないようにご注意ください。接着剤がホームボタンからケーブルを裂いてしまう妨げとなることがあります。この場合、ホームボタン機能は動くものの、指紋認証スキャンが使えなくなります。

The display assembly I purchased from ifixit.com included a new home button with a new flex cable. If you have the same, I'd recommend removing the home button in this step.

pdub01 - 返信

Sansumg S5 is the stupiest design (for repair) ever.

I have fixed s2,s3,s4, note, note 2 and note 3

All of them, you can get into the logic board from the back without touching the screen assembly.

With the S5, just a simple problem could cost you buying a new lcd assembly.

You must remove the lcd in order to remove the screws for the logic board cover.

I purchased a cracked lcd S5, so I can replace it and sell it. My mistake was I did not did a research on the tear down (thinking it should the same as previous S model.

To make story short, lucky for me, I did a dry test of the entire phone, before glueing on the new lcd assembly.

Because the front camera lens was damaged, cost $5.

If I glued the lcd, it would be 50/50 chance that I would crack the new screen.

So any repair that you need to do on the S5, you will have to consider the risk of breaking the LCD.

I hope Samsung change the design on the S6. Which I doubt it. Because the higher cost of repair means people won't fix them = more new sells

idevice Recycle - 返信

How can I find out if I messed my phone up . the person who glued the screen on didn't glue it on right , so I tried to take off the screen and I got it off but now that I try to put it back on the screen is black .

cholitaesh21 -

I know this reply is a bit late, over 2 years late, but I just wanted to add to idevice Recycle that the way "they" designed this phone is exactly as you described, to make it wayyyy more difficult to fix even the most simplest thing on this phone. Inverting the motherboard, designed exactly the opposite way of the S4 (as you described), from their standpoint of view, as you'd have to admit, was a brilliant idea on "they're" part.

I've torn apart and fixed many cell/smart phones in my days thus far, but mostly iphones by far. A friend passed

me one of these phones this past week. I've never messed with one before so you already know, even though I

have much knowledge about them, this site was the first I visited about this phone. Needless to say, go figure.

They did a really great job though making this phone one of the most difficult phones to do any type of repair

on. Adhesive sucks. But eh, all is well with a bit of time and patience. Had to replace rear camera and middle

bezel frame. Time to off it....

you_mad.lil_fella -

This guide may have been written for a different revision but the SM-G900F that I just repaired had glue sticking the entire of the rear of the screen to the chassis making it very difficult to remove. Had to use a spudger and push it down the inside of the phone separating the copper film from the chassis to free it up. Would be easy to damage the home button cable but I was ok.

Adam - 返信

I had the same thing happen just now. I was working on a G900A. A real PITA!

mcr4u2 -

Is there a need to put adhesive after removing the screen?? If so, do you have an adhesive recommended...

garrykufa2000 - 返信

Should be. i recommend using 3m strip double sided adhesive

leiki42 -

I had the same issue as idevice recycle. The model S5 that I was working on had a huge amount of glue on the back of the lcd which I wasn't aware of - this caused me to crack the glass which then literally broke the lcd in half (costing me £120 for a new screen!!!)

I've repaired all manner of Samsung products over the years and I've never had any issues with any model apart from this one. My advice to anyone doing this repair is once you have managed to unstick the screen from the frame, before attempting to remove it, apply a bit of heat (but not too much, you don't want to damage anything) to the back of the phone where the battery normally sits. This is where all the glue on the back of the lcd is located which sticks the lcd to the frame of the phone - I wish I knew of this before trying to remove the screen!

Clems - 返信

The guide needs to mention that the LCD is firmly glued.. Mine was bust anyway, but Step 19 is not fit for purpose.

Dave - 返信

So this really blows. I needed to swap the logic board from a phone with a cracked screen to one with a good screen. Yeah that’s not happening. I now have two cracked screens… Thanks Samsung! The difficulty on this should be way higher. As others have said, the screen is glued on the underside over a large portion where the copper foil is. It’s not coming up easily or in one piece.

Jeremy Buseman - 返信

If you want to make the reassembly easier, be careful to not separate the Home button assembly, from the glass. Instead, just carefully pry away the soft button adhesive connectors.

OmniWeb Technical Education - 返信

  • スパッジャーの先端を使って基盤上のソケットからフロントパネルアセンブリのケーブルコネクターの接続を引き上げて外します。

  • フロントパネルアセンブリを電話本体から丁寧に取り出します。

Am si eu un galaxi j5 2016 i putin spart pe blitu din spate si un pic pe ecran cit mar corta

alex_ronaldo71 - 返信

Absolutely wonderful! Worked like a charm. This is the easiest replacement I have seen so far on an Android. :)

Paul Frutiger - 返信

Yeah, right… this phone is the exact reason why I avoid Samsung junk at all costs! Samsung perfected exactly what they were aiming for when designing this phone. What a total POS !! But from a company standpoint of view they hit the nail right on the head when it comes to this phone (and beyond). I’ll stick to my iphones, at least I don’t have to go through this bs in order to replace the charging jack on it when it breaks. The lightning plug on iphone is also much more superior when it comes to durability versus this garbage micro usb charging junk. This is probably the 8th S5 I’ve worked on that had a broken charging jack, everything else works on phone. But I fully understand and chuckled at your sarcasm, indeed !!

you_mad.lil_fella -

  • ミッドフレームのディスプレイ側から3.4 mm #000 プラスネジを10本外します。

It’s probably a good idea to remove (and subsequently screw back in) these screws in a sort of “star fashion” (e.g. alternating from top-to-bottom, left-to-right) in order to equally distribute the tension.

OmniWeb Technical Education - 返信

  • デバイス本体を裏返しにして、ミッドフレームのバッテリー側から次のネジを外します。

    • デバイス本体のバッテリー側にあるUSBポート付近の4.4 mm #000プラスネジー2本

    • 4.4 mm #000プラスネジー1本

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  • プラスチック製の開口ツールを使って、インナーフレームの左側内部に沿って丁寧にスライドし、3つの白色のプラスチッククリップを外します。

There are also two more white clips just along the edges of the battery connection terminals (to the right of the 3 shown in the pictures). Using a spudger to pry these loose too will make separating them later much easier.

Peter Morris - 返信

Yes, I second that! You definitely need to loosen those two other clips or you may have problems separating this interior frame from the midframe.

OmniWeb Technical Education -

  • ミッドフレームの半分はマザーボードを包んでいます。

  • シルバーのベゼルの長い側をつかんで、電話本体から引き上げて外し、ミッドフレームの片側を取り出します。

  • バッテリーコンパートメントの内部からゆっくりと丁寧に押し出すとうまくいきますが、マザーボードがミッドフレームの内側半分に搭載されているため、これを曲げないようにご注意ください。

maybe my phone was stuck a little, but i had to work it pretty hard to get this step. Just take your time.

andrew beals - 返信

Personally I wouldn’t recommend separating the midframe-motherboard assembly like this. What I recommend is the following: 1. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the main speaker grille and the main camera assembly (technically, between the gray and black plastic pieces. 2. Pry up on the black plastic piece (using the gray plastic piece as a fulcrum) in such a way that allows you to lift that end of the interior midframe-motherboard assembly from the inner midframe (see step 27). THEN 3. Once you have created enough space, insert a triangular pick tool, and THEN use a plastic opening tool to pry any remaining corners out of the silver bezel (see step 26). WARNING: BE VERRRRY CAREFUL WHERE YOU INSERT TOOLS or apply pressure because there are many sensitive components along that top part (where the cameras and infrared sensors are located).

OmniWeb Technical Education - 返信

  • シルバーのベゼル右側の作業を続けます。ミッドフレームのインテリアセクションを引いてマザーボードの半分を外してください。

Personally I wouldn’t recommend separating the midframe-motherboard assembly like this. What I recommend is the following: 1. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the main speaker grille and the main camera assembly (technically, between the gray and black plastic pieces. 2. Pry up on the black plastic piece (using the gray plastic piece as a fulcrum) in such a way that allows you to lift that end of the interior midframe-motherboard assembly from the inner midframe (see step 27). THEN 3. Once you have created enough space, insert a triangular pick tool, and THEN use a plastic opening tool to pry any remaining corners out of the silver bezel (see step 26). WARNING: BE VERRRRY CAREFUL WHERE YOU INSERT TOOLS or apply pressure because there are many sensitive components along that top part (where the cameras and infrared sensors are located).

OmniWeb Technical Education - 返信

  • プラスチックの開口ツールを使って、外れていないシルバーベゼルの角をこじ開けます。

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  • 丁寧にインテリアミッドフレーム/マザーボードアセンブリを白色の内側のミッドフレームから取り出します。

Did two of these phones, and a small white hard plastic cap fell out. Can anyone tell me where this goes on reassembly? See pic: http://library-static.snapfish.com/libra...

Brian Guild - 返信

The white plastic cap which fell out is actually the piece that covers a small hole marked R2 near the original philips head screw you remove when first disconnecting the small display connector. The good news is that this cap can be put back on after fully reassembling the phone.

Brian Guild - 返信

  • ミッドフレームに留められた基盤から3.0 mm #00プラスネジを1本外します。

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  • 背面のコネクターにアクセスするために、ミッドフレームから基盤を引き上げます。完全に取り外さないでください。

  • マイクロUSBポートのドーターボードコネクターによって内部ミッドフレームと繋がっているため、基盤を完全に外さないでください

  • 基盤を清潔で平らな表面の上に載せ、内部ミッドフレームを片手で支えます。もう一方の手で基盤アセンブリの作業を進めます。

コメントを追加する

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マザーボードのソケットから背面カメラコネクターの接続を外します。

  • ピンセットを使って、マザーボードから背面カメラを取り出します。

Does any one know what the connection type is that connects the camera to the mother board? I'm not sure what to search to find it.

Mason Henke - 返信

まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

35 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:

100%

Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています! 貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›

Sam Lionheart

メンバー登録日: 2012年10月18日

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534のガイドは作成済み

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107 メンバー

6,510のガイドは作成済み

has any one replaced the camera and now you get the warning camera filled and the led light fails each time you click the app?

Aaron - 返信

did you ever figure out how to fix that, i have the same problem

Stuart Orellana -

Outstanding guide!! My rear facing camera got smashed in a bike accident (key in the same pocket as phone - dumb...) and the impact didn't totally disable it, but it lost the ability to properly focus at any but really close distances. This guide made the replacement process completely straightforward and if not "easy" at least a whole lot less daunting. Especially helpful were all the warnings and advice about dealing with the little itty bitty cables at the touch and home buttons at the bottom of the screen.

One item that I might add to this guide - I found it helpful to use multiple opening picks to keep the already cut adhesive around the edges of the display from re-sticking itself as I continued to slowly heat and cut and heat and cut. It's very tenacious adhesive and it really likes to cling back to itself, cool and re-solidify before you get done cutting it all.

Most importantly, after doing this repair, my phone is back to 100% with a perfectly working camera and all functions normal. YAY!!!

Edward Williams - 返信

... and, here's the actual repair - https://youtu.be/Q2oj6zpJmTQ compressed to just under two minutes

Edward Williams -

I got a phone from someone and the camera was broken, so I replaced it. After that it still doesn't worked, so I wiped the cache, made a factory reset, etc, still nothing. Does this happened to someone else here? What else can affect the proper function of the camera?

Csongor Bakos - 返信

very nice help, how can I help translating to portuguese?

joao4simoes - 返信

Glad to hear you want to contribute to the iFixit guides! We're working on public translations and will let you know when Portuguese translations are possible. Cheers!

Jasper Fleischhauer -

How do you affix the screen back on? Do you need to place new adhesive or just reuse the old one?

pyrexid - 返信

My screen was STRONGLY glued to the midframe, it was impossible to remove it without breaking it, be very careful with the copper adhesive in the midframe!!! I can't even understand how this guide doesn't mention it properly!

Pedro - 返信

Great guide. I replaced the damaged outer plastic chrome bezel, front and rear camera following the instructions carefully and all went perfectly well. Phone is like new now.

Gary Avery - 返信

You really need to let people know about the amount of adhesive on the back of these screens. They are NOT easy to take off (it’s almost as if they have superglue on the back of them) and they can crack with the slightest of pressure. Clearly going from this guide, the adhesive from the back of the screen had already been removed, making this look like an easy process when it actually isn’t :(

Clems - 返信

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