はじめに

This guide is for the removal of the daughterboard. The daughterboard contains the Micro USB port.

Power down your device.
  • Power down your device.

  • Use your plastic opening tool to wedge between the seams around the sides of the device. Pry open each side, one at a time.

  • Do not pry near the USB port at the base of the device as you may crack the rear panel.

I had a heck of a time doing this, spent ten or twenty minutes carefully prying, and I STILL cracked the case. At least on mine, the case was held in VERY well and required prying pretty much everywhere before it would let go. The tools I bought from iFixit really helped, but still a royal pain to open.

pacmanmaster - 返信

a couple of obscure things that might help in opening:

guitar pick. get a few; they are cheap.

a prying device made for the sign industry: its called"lil' chizler". I have found that this to be the most helpful opening tool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/16184595677...

also

https://www.qualitylogoproducts.com/trad...

you can use the broken screen unit to test.

Len Gorsky - 返信

Add "remove the sim tray"...

Iain Lennon - 返信

I echo the previous - a right royal pain to get the cover off! I started on the right side as seemed to be more give there… iFixit tools helped tho!

Steven Emery - 返信

Just for the sake of clarity, I would add that you need to pry between the plastic bezel and the back casing. Not between the glass and bezel. Someone had already tried on the one I worked on and part of the bezel was missing in the top right corner. Made my job easier!

The best tools for this part are definitely something like the iFixit Jimmy and their opening tool, a few guitar picks and a spudger. Not too difficult once you get the first separation.

Cool_Breeze - 返信

I managed to easily crack the screen, guess I’ll have to order a new one and “try” to put it in, in addition to the original job of replacing a dead battery on Nexus 7 2013..ahhhhhh, slow learner…

Gary Stamey - 返信

Work fingers around the seam between device and back cover. Use your plastic opening tool and fingers to separate each side until device and back cover are completely apart.
  • Work fingers around the seam between device and back cover. Use your plastic opening tool and fingers to separate each side until device and back cover are completely apart.

  • Be careful around the corners. The body of the device can be fragile.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the clear protective flap on the ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip up the thin portion of the connector (opposite of the side where the cable inserts) to release the cable from its socket.

    • DO NOT PRY the socket on the side where the cable inserts, or you may break the entire socket off the motherboard.

  • Slide the cable out of the ZIF socket.

Flip up on the WHITE part, facing away from the cable. I sort of struggled with this part, but fortunately didn't do any serious damage.

yuguoxiong - 返信

This is the correct way to do it. Flipping up the white part is what you have to do. I tried flipping up the black part and some of it broke off.

Ryan -

I found that I had to flip up on the black part here. I broke a section of the white trying to flip it up.

pattylanter - 返信

This comment saved me on this step. Indeed the secret is to flip up the black part of the connector, located opposite the side where the cable inserts.

Hannah Cirimele -

This is wrong, these comments should be deleted so as to not confuse more people.

Jeff Andrews -

It's possible there's more than one color variation in production on these Nexus 7 ZIF sockets. To complicate matters, it looks like the guide's original author/photographer may have simply yanked the ribbon cable out without opening the socket, so there's very little visual clue here as to which is the right section to flip up. Based on these photos, I'd say Hannah's tip is probably correct—you want to flip up the thinner portion of the socket, opposite the cable (regardless of its color scheme). If someone who has successfully completed this step could supply a better photo, that would be super helpful!

Jeff Suovanen -

I revised the text so there's no long any mention of the coloration of the socket.

Jeff Suovanen -

I believe I broke the ZIF attached to the mobo at this step; is there any other way to reconnect it during reassembly or will I require a new mobo?

Neil Reed - 返信

This was my first time with this kind of ZIF socket and found these instructions/pictures ambiguous. In hindsight I see what was being described (actually used the replacement daughterboard as my guide). May I suggest this phrasing:

The ZIF clamp hinges on the side opposite of where the cable in inserted. Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip the thin portion of the connector up and away from the insertion side of the connector.

charles fineman - 返信

Correction of Charles' Oct comment: The ZIF clamp hinges on the same side as the cable is inserted, the side towards the battery. The cable runs over the battery and into the thick connector, with contacts both on the side closest to the battery and on the side away from the battery. Beyond the contacts on the side away from the battery is the thin part to be lifted. Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip the thin portion of the connector up and towards the insertion side of the connector. You can leverage gently against the big copper-covered area on the side away from the battery, in lifting the thin (white in the current picture) part of the connector.

tballou - 返信

You can leverage gently against the big copper-covered area on the side away from the battery, in lifting the thin (white in the current picture) part of the connector, using a motion similar to the described in step 5 below for removing the orange ribbon connector.

tballou - 返信

some better macro photos of the zif socket would help a lot, in closed and open states

Iain Lennon - 返信

For anyone like me who has only experience with metal connectors similar to iPhones, this is a "switch-on/switch-off" connector.

The cable doesn't pop out by itself, you have to pull it out yourself.

Light to moderate pressure required.

Jason - 返信

Please make the pictures clearer as Iain Lennon said. I too was a fool to not read the comments and broke the connector off of the motherboard.

Yumi Blesh - 返信

Ha.

So one side of the cable has a white strip connector, and the other side has a black strip connector. (both comments above are correct, depending on which side you are looking at)

The side in the photo has a black connector strip that needs to be opened. It is the long small strip of plastic on the _opposite_ side of the connection point, to the cable.

It clicks up into the air, like on a hinge.

The cable then pulls out, without any resistance.

Warwick - 返信

  • Peel protective foil cover back top of mother board to expose orange ribbon connection.

  • The ribbon connections should now be fully visible, with the plastic tabs exposed.

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  • Using the tweezers, peel back the silver protective foil on top of the orange ribbon connector.

  • Using the plastic opening tool, pry upward under the orange ribbon connector. It will pop right out of place.

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  • Now that the two main ribbons are disconnected, fold and hold them back with your fingers, or place the tweezers or a light object on the ribbons to keep them in place.

How called is the left one ? I broke it and i will buy it but cant find it..

Timo Dohmen - 返信

  • Use the #0 Phillips Screwdriver to remove the four silver 3 mm Philips #0 screws from around the battery housing.

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  • Insert the plastic opening tool under the side edge of the battery connector, and gently pry upward to disconnect it.

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  • Remove the battery from your device by applying pressure at the base of the battery and lifting it out.

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  • Remove the gray seal covering the top center screw on the daughterboard.

  • Be aware that this action will void your warranty.

  • Be sure to store the seal in a place where it will not get dirty and can retain its stickiness.

I couldn't get a grasp on the sticker enough to peel it off, so just punched through it with the screwdriver. I don't know the point of removing the sticker, since the warranty is voided anyway by either time or the mere act of disassembly.

yuguoxiong - 返信

How come the battery is still in place in the picture? I couldn't get the battery out until I'd removed another 3 screws...1 on the daughterboard (step 11) and 2 on the motherboard (step 16).

Mark Birbeck - 返信

Both hidden screws were holding the battery tray in place. I was not able to remove the battery as described in step 9 before removing the screw from this step

coutureg - 返信

If you are replacing just the main board and not the daughterboard , I skip this part and go to step 16.

danovila - 返信

  • Using the Phillips #0 screwdriver, unscrew the 5 black 2 mm sized screws from around the edge of the daughterboard.

  • Use the same Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the two silver 3 mm sized screws from either side of the micro USB.

Is there a reason you suggested removing the screws at this point? I found it to be more of a hassle having the board moving around as I did the next several disconnects. Unless there's a good reason, I would suggest leaving the screws in until the foam and the connectors have been detached.

charles fineman - 返信

  • Use the tweezers to unplug the speaker connector from the daughterboard by pulling sideways.

  • Be gentle in this step as this connector can be fragile. Do not pull upwards.

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  • Slowly peel off the cover adhered to the pin connector with the tweezers.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to carefully flip up both retaining flaps one each of the ZIF sockets.

    • When disconnecting the ZIF sockets flip them outwards to the edge of the board/towards the cables respectively.

  • Be careful not to damage the pin connector. Pull parallel to the device, not up.

  • For more info on how to disconnect ZIF connectors, check out the Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors guide.

Flip up on the WHITE part, facing away from the cable. I sort of struggled with this part, but fortunately didn't do any serious damage.

yuguoxiong - 返信

  • The daughterboard will now lift easily up and out of the device.

  • Use care during reassembly. This daughter board is a very sensitive part. It is easy to fry the digitizer part of this board if connections are made in the wrong order. Complete all other cable connections before connecting battery power.

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まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

35 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

Simon Krauter

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Cal Poly, Team 20-16, Maness Winter 2015 Cal Poly, Team 20-16, Maness Winter 2015人のメンバー

CPSU-MANESS-W15S20G16

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Hi,

I need to replace USB connector on my Nexus7-2013 wifi, buit I had see on ASUS web site, if I change this spart, i need to recalibrate the unit .http://www.asusparts.eu/fr/Asus-90NK0080...

Is it true ?

Thx for your answer

Vincent PONS - 返信

According to these repair stories, it worked fine without any mentions of a need to calibrate: Nexus 7 (2nd Gen Wi-Fi) LCD Board

beanthedemon -

Great guide, easy to follow, the only input I would add is that stating which direction the zif connectors open would be helpful for newbies like me :)

lyleinnes - 返信

Hello i have a problem with a spudger in the daughter board, i crashed one of them will replacing the screen, i need to know how to fix it or the best place to buy a used daughter board

Hady Allam - 返信

My nexus 7 2013 wifi is charging fine with the existing board, but when I connect it to PC, it doesn't open the USB connection. Now, do I get the replacement or is this is a software bug?

manohar.m - 返信

Try a different USB cable.

beanthedemon -

I posted this in the Q/A section but I thought I'd post here.

I purchased a replacement USB board on Amazon provided by ifixit for my Nexus 7 (2nd Gen) tablet. The installation was easy, but after turning on my tablet the left half of the screen would not respond to touches. Charges fine though (which is why I bought the part). I let the tablet charge then I swapped the old part back in. Viola! Screen works fine. Is there another step I need to perform with this new part or should I send it back for replacement?

Answer your question

gchildt - 返信

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