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はじめに

The battery, keyboard, trackpad, and upper case are all stuck together. If you break one of these components, you will need to replace the entire assembly. Follow this guide to do so.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.0 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    • Set the lower case aside.

  3. Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

  4. Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

  5. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

    • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly "walk" the connector out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

  7. Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan. Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive. Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

    • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

  8. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

  9. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges.

  10. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge covers to the upper case. Remove the two aluminum hinge brackets from the MacBook Pro.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge covers to the upper case.

    • Remove the two aluminum hinge brackets from the MacBook Pro.

  11. Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.  On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex. In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board. Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex.

    • In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

    • Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

  12. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

  13. Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro. Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.
    • Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.

  14. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

  15. Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

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  17. Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.
    • Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

  18. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

  19. Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar.

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

  20. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

    • Lift the left fan out of the device.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

  21. Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  22. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

  23. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer. Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  24. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board. Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

    • Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

  25. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  26. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

    • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

  27. Peel back any tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector.
    • Peel back any tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Pry only under the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself, or you may break it off the board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently back the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket by pushing first at one side, then the other.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Pry only under the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself, or you may break it off the board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently back the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket by pushing first at one side, then the other.

  29. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  30. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  31. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

  32. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  33. Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near to the MagSafe 2 connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near to the MagSafe 2 connector.

  34. Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.8 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.2 mm Raised Head T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.5 mm Silver T5 Torx screw

  35. Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro. Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board. When reinstalling the logic board, check the cables at the marked locations to make sure they don't get pinned underneath the logic board.
    • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the logic board, check the cables at the marked locations to make sure they don't get pinned underneath the logic board.

    • Clockwise from top: keyboard, trackpad, battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, display, microphone, headphone jack, left speaker.

  36. Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.
    • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

  37. Remove the single 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the left rubber hinge cover in place. Slide the hinge cover out of its bezel, then lift it up and out of the device. The screw in the right hinge cover should already have been removed.
    • Remove the single 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the left rubber hinge cover in place.

    • Slide the hinge cover out of its bezel, then lift it up and out of the device.

    • The screw in the right hinge cover should already have been removed.

    • Slide the right cover out of its bezel, then lift it out of the device.

  38. Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool underneath the upper microphone. Slide the blade of a plastic opening tool along the bottom of the upper microphone, releasing the adhesive. Be careful when releasing the adhesive holding the cable down, as these cables have been known to tear easily.
    • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool underneath the upper microphone.

    • Slide the blade of a plastic opening tool along the bottom of the upper microphone, releasing the adhesive.

    • Be careful when releasing the adhesive holding the cable down, as these cables have been known to tear easily.

    • In a similar manner, release the adhesive underneath the lower microphone.

    • Lift the cable out of the device.

  39. Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case. Slide the MagSafe DC-In board towards the right free it from its recess within the upper case.
    • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.

    • Slide the MagSafe DC-In board towards the right free it from its recess within the upper case.

    • Lift and remove the MagSafe DC-In board out of the upper case assembly.

  40. Remove the two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the headphone jack to the upper case assembly. Slide the headphone jack away from the upper case.
    • Remove the two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the headphone jack to the upper case assembly.

    • Slide the headphone jack away from the upper case.

    • Lift and remove the headphone jack out from its recess in the upper case.

  41. Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case: One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Lift the left speaker out of the upper case and set it aside.

  42. Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case: One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw
    • Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Remove the right speaker from the MacBook Pro.

  43. Remove four out of the six 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.
    • Remove four out of the six 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.

    • We purposely have you leave two screws attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

  44. Open the device between 90 and 100 degrees, then rest it on its side. While supporting both halves of the device with one hand, unscrew the upper 5.3 mm T8 Torx screw.
    • Open the device between 90 and 100 degrees, then rest it on its side.

    • While supporting both halves of the device with one hand, unscrew the upper 5.3 mm T8 Torx screw.

    • Repeat the same process for the identical bottom screw.

    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with one hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

  45. Grip both halves of the device. Firmly put one hand on the top center of the upper case (left) and one in the same place on the display assembly (right). While holding the display assembly in place, slowly push forward on the upper case, releasing it from the display assembly.
    • Grip both halves of the device. Firmly put one hand on the top center of the upper case (left) and one in the same place on the display assembly (right).

    • While holding the display assembly in place, slowly push forward on the upper case, releasing it from the display assembly.

  46. Upper case remains.
    • Upper case remains.

まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

42 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

Jake Devincenzi

メンバー登録日: 2011年04月18日

108,647 ポイント

57のガイドは作成済み

How Can I clean a coffee spill on the retina macbook pro? which alcohol to use to clean the logic board and I/O board? Will I get all the necessary tools to open it in Home Tech toolkit?

Neeraj Saini - 返信

Please note a T8 Torx Screwdriver is needed in this guide for the display screws.

rfoppen - 返信

-It would be cool a 3rd party battery manufacturer to make a spare battery without the glue.

-Ony needed to remove the glued one (no prob. if damage it.. it is no good anyway, anymore) and put in place a new one with no glue held in place just by the lack of space inside the case, or some tiny spongy strips to help remove any play.

-The thing is who would manufacture a spare like this.

-Even Apple could supply spares like this.

crus - 返信

I have always turned to iFixIt for repair guides. This particular repair, listed as "difficult," was one that I was apprehensive about undertaking. But I was successful!

I have a brief blog post about it here:

http://www.hightechdad.com/2014/12/22/ho...

And, for those who are going through this guide, I have a LONG (30 minute) video that walks through the repair using the iFixIt guide:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ODfFSMs...

Hope it helps!

-HTD

HighTechDad - 返信

== The good ==

Very clear instructions, well done.

== The warning ==

There is one major problem though ... I purchased the Upper Case Assembly as mentioned, although from a local retailer in Australia. When I got to the final step, I realised it didn't have the battery or touchpad. If you purchase the case assembly from elsewhere, make sure it comes with the battery/touchpad as these are impossible to move from one unit to another.

carl - 返信

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