はじめに

MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013 のマイクを交換してウェブカメラの声を取り戻しましょう。

MacBook Proの底ケースに固定されているP5ペンタローブネジを取り外します。
  • MacBook Proの底ケースに固定されているP5ペンタローブネジを取り外します。

    • 3.0 mmー8本

    • 2.3 mmー2本

To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

lantzero - 返信

In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

Christian Mohr -

The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

Sam Lionheart -

Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

Mike -

will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

drscottgreenwell - 返信

Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

cloughenough -

This works for rMBP 2012 late

iyeori -

Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

didierma - 返信

If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

iyeori - 返信

Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

Epifanio - 返信

It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

floyd - 返信

Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

Emilio Mejia - 返信

I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

Alvaro Suarez - 返信

Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

Jose David Valle -

Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

Bert0ld0 -

Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

brian2burnett - 返信

Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

Walt Goede - 返信

Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

/JD

Jakob Dahlin - 返信

Not sure if this has been listed.

PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

erin - 返信

クラッチカバー付近の端を持ち上げて、MacBook Proの底ケースを外します。
  • クラッチカバー付近の端を持ち上げて、MacBook Proの底ケースを外します。

  • 底ケースを脇に置きます。

Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

jamiegan835 - 返信

I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

Tim Peat -

I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

This is a "PC" habit.

On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

crus - 返信

Hey,

Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

Regards

Jose David Valle -

This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

Andrew Fox -

I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

Thanks for help.

c4rlosv8 - 返信

There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

Tim Peat -

If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

auntialias - 返信

バッテリーコネクタを覆っている注意書きラベルを剥がします。
  • バッテリーコネクタを覆っている注意書きラベルを剥がします。

For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

iyeori - 返信

Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

g000phy - 返信

Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

max damage -

Why is this step necessary?

67b5ebab - 返信

67b5ebab Good question !

Why is this necessary ?

bigb19791979 - 返信

This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

Hope that helps!!

~the more you know~

Colin Devenney - 返信

I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

Achilles - 返信

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターの接続部分を基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。 バッテリーケーブルを後ろ側に折り曲げ、バッテリーコネクタがアクシデントで基板に接触しないように確認してください。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、バッテリーコネクターの接続部分を基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。

  • バッテリーケーブルを後ろ側に折り曲げ、バッテリーコネクタがアクシデントで基板に接触しないように確認してください。

I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

Joel Replogle - 返信

So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

Bert0ld0 -

Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

Jer - 返信

I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

Thomas Horan - 返信

Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

James Suojanen - 返信

Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

Antonino Auteri - 返信

スパッジャーの先端を使って、3本のAirPortアンテナケーブルをAirPortボード上のソケットから接続を真っ直ぐ引き上げます。
  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、3本のAirPortアンテナケーブルをAirPortボード上のソケットから接続を真っ直ぐ引き上げます。

will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

Oleg Babko - 返信

Yes, this voids your warranty.

max damage -

If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

Delta - 返信

These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

Alvin Chua - 返信

If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

lamajr -

I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

is there a way to replace the antenna?

Fabian Schweinfurth - 返信

unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

Arn Custodio - 返信

The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

joey - 返信

Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

Thomas Kunjappu - 返信

Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

Jer -

After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

cabcpa - 返信

Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

travismlive - 返信

Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

Jer -

@tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

1)The rubber heat sink cover

2 The AirPort/Camera cables

3)The IO board cable

All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

Itai -

These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

ChrisMBP -

travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

Jasper - 返信

I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

Douglas Johnston - 返信

Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

Douglas Johnston - 返信

Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

Radoslaw Przybyl - 返信

the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

Frederick Rae - 返信

The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

Sam Jomaa - 返信

Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

Sam Jomaa - 返信

tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

Jon Ocampo - 返信

Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

chuck60 - 返信

I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

Achilles -

Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

eskoo - 返信

Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

Walt Goede - 返信

If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

lamajr - 返信

Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

Chapman Harrison - 返信

Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

Chapman Harrison - 返信

スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルのコネクタをファン側に押して、基板上のソケットから外します。
  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、カメラケーブルのコネクタをファン側に押して、基板上のソケットから外します。

    • 基板に対して平行に押してください。コネクタの一方をまず押してから、反対側を押してください。ソケットには接触しないでください。

I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

Sergey - 返信

Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

bhayes9614 -

This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

mayer - 返信

This tip worked for me.

eskoo -

If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

noahtfu - 返信

Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

kramerigor - 返信

the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

micheleroger - 返信

Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

Jason Amri -

Push on the little wings, from right to left.

Julian Wood - 返信

This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

Jon Ocampo - 返信

The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

Ben Moore - 返信

This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

Ryan Brown - 返信

It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

Jen Wells - 返信

The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

Charles Lindauer - 返信

The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

jerryl - 返信

Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

Chuck Barton - 返信

右側ファン上にあるゴム製ヒートシンクカバーの下にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。 スパッジャーをカバー全体にスライドしながら、接着剤を剥がします。 カバーを持ち上げて、裏返します。これで下にあるケーブルにアクセスできます。
  • 右側ファン上にあるゴム製ヒートシンクカバーの下にスパッジャーの平面側先端を差し込みます。

  • スパッジャーをカバー全体にスライドしながら、接着剤を剥がします。

  • カバーを持ち上げて、裏返します。これで下にあるケーブルにアクセスできます。

Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

cahcadden - 返信

指先を使って、AirPort/カメラケーブルをファンから引っ張ります。 ケーブルはファンに接着剤で固定されています。そのためダメージを与えないように、引っ張る際はゆっくりと丁寧に作業を進めてください。 丁寧にプラスチックのケーブルガイドからケーブルを外します。
  • 指先を使って、AirPort/カメラケーブルをファンから引っ張ります。

    • ケーブルはファンに接着剤で固定されています。そのためダメージを与えないように、引っ張る際はゆっくりと丁寧に作業を進めてください。

  • 丁寧にプラスチックのケーブルガイドからケーブルを外します。

It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

PriorityMail - 返信

Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

Aniket Suryavanshi - 返信

I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

ChrisMBP - 返信

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/O ボードコネクターを基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。再組み立ての際は、このコネクターの先端を先に接続してください。 同じ方法で、I/OボードコネクタをI/Oボード上のソケットから接続を外します。 MacBook ProからI/Oボードケーブルを外します。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/O ボードコネクターを基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐ引き上げます。再組み立ての際は、このコネクターの先端を先に接続してください。

  • 同じ方法で、I/OボードコネクタをI/Oボード上のソケットから接続を外します。

  • MacBook ProからI/Oボードケーブルを外します。

Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

peteyx - 返信

When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

bitmat23 - 返信

基板上のAirPortカードに固定された2.9 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。
  • 基板上のAirPortカードに固定された2.9 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。

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MacBook ProからAirPortカードを取り出して、AirPortの薄くなっている端を掴んで、基板と平行に引っ張ります。 MacBook ProからAirPortカードを取り出して、AirPortの薄くなっている端を掴んで、基板と平行に引っ張ります。
  • MacBook ProからAirPortカードを取り出して、AirPortの薄くなっている端を掴んで、基板と平行に引っ張ります。

As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

stvn chng - 返信

You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

eskoo - 返信

There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

Tristan Harward - 返信

スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側ファンのリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げて裏返します。 固定フラップの蝶番部分をこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。
  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側ファンのリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げて裏返します。

  • 固定フラップの蝶番部分をこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

  • 右側ファンケーブルの下に差し込んだプラスチック製の開口ツールをケーブル上部からスライドして、基板から解放します。

  • ケーブルを外す際はご注意ください。基板に多量の接着剤で固定されています。

I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

Alvin Chua - 返信

Easier to do while removing fan.

mayer - 返信

The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

Kitipong Mork - 返信

ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

Don Steele - 返信

I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

eskoo - 返信

基板に右側ファンを固定している次のネジを外します。
  • 基板に右側ファンを固定している次のネジを外します。

    • 4.4 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.9 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.0 mm T5トルクスネジ(2 mmカラー)ー1本

コメントを追加する

MacBook Proから右側ファンを持ち上げて取り出します。
  • MacBook Proから右側ファンを持ち上げて取り出します。

  • ファンを再装着する際は、3本のファン用ネジを装着した後にファンリボンケーブルを接続するよりも先にファンを固定してからケーブルを接続する方が簡単です。

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側ファンからゴム製ヒートシンクのカバーを持ち上げます。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側ファンからゴム製ヒートシンクのカバーを持ち上げます。

This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

RT0 - 返信

I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

spearson - 返信

Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

Jer - 返信

左側ファンを基板に固定している次のネジを外します。
  • 左側ファンを基板に固定している次のネジを外します。

    • 4.4 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.0 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.9 mm T5ワイドヘッドトルクスネジー1本

check if screw marking here is right

Oleg - 返信

One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

best regards,

Seth

sethroot - 返信

seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

ryanbraganza - 返信

T4 seems to have worked for me

jonathaniscarroll - 返信

i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

Habib Sy - 返信

スパッジャーの先端を使って、左側リボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。 蝶番の固定フラップを持ち上げてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。 プラスチック製の開口ツールを差し込んだケーブルの上部から左側ファンケーブルの下までスライドして、基板から解放します。
  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、左側リボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。

  • 蝶番の固定フラップを持ち上げてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

  • プラスチック製の開口ツールを差し込んだケーブルの上部から左側ファンケーブルの下までスライドして、基板から解放します。

    • ケーブルを外す際はご注意ください。ケーブルは頑丈な接着剤によって基板に固定されています。必要に応じてiOpenerやドライヤーを使ってケーブルに留められた接着剤を柔らかくするため、ケーブルを温めてください。取り外す作業がスムーズにいきます。

  • デバイスから左側ファンを持ち上げて取り出します。

  • ファンを再装着する際は、ファンのネジを3本取り付けた後に行うよりも、ファンを固定の場所に置いてファン用のリボンケーブルを接続する方法が簡単です。

a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

Albert Einstein - 返信

I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

maccentric - 返信

I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

orders - 返信

Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

Chris McKay - 返信

基板にSSDを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。
  • 基板にSSDを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。

When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

Lorte Messenger - 返信

I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

Dave Miller -

The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

The screw for the SSD is Torx.

Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

(However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

jkgarrett17 -

For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

Elaine - 返信

The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

Ryan Tucker -

I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

Dave Miller - 返信

OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

Dave Miller -

It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

Toan Tran - 返信

Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

(The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

jkgarrett17 - 返信

ゆっくりと一番右側のSSDを持ち上げて、基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐスライドして外します。 ゆっくりと一番右側のSSDを持ち上げて、基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐスライドして外します。
  • ゆっくりと一番右側のSSDを持ち上げて、基板上のソケットから真っ直ぐスライドして外します。

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーの先端を使ってI/Oボードのデータケーブルのロックを持ち上げて外し、バッテリー側に回します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボードデータのケーブルをまっすぐ基板上のソケットからスライドして外します。
  • スパッジャーの先端を使ってI/Oボードのデータケーブルのロックを持ち上げて外し、バッテリー側に回します。

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボードデータのケーブルをまっすぐ基板上のソケットからスライドして外します。

    • ソケットは大変デリケートのため、I/Oボードのデータケーブルを上向きに引っ張らないでください。基板に平行してケーブルを引っ張ります。

This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

Robert Jan Lebbink - 返信

基板にI/Oボードを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。 ゆっくりとI/Oボードを持ち上げて底ケースから取り出します。
  • 基板にI/Oボードを固定している3.1 mm T5トルクスネジを2本外します。

  • ゆっくりとI/Oボードを持ち上げて底ケースから取り出します。

This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

Jer - 返信

it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

Reid Rankin - 返信

Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

Christopher Hofmann -

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからヘッドホンジャックのコネクターを持ち上げて、接続を外します。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからヘッドホンジャックのコネクターを持ち上げて、接続を外します。

After connect the cable aux is not working

deepak selvanathan - 返信

Strange, I'm working on the same model, and it doesn't have a flex here. It's soldered.

Ross Karnes - 返信

Same as Ross. No cable to pry. It’s soldered. But looks like I can continue on anyway

Cameron Melvin - 返信

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側スピーカーのコネクターを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。 スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側スピーカーのコネクタを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、左側スピーカーのコネクターを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。

  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、右側スピーカーのコネクタを基板上のソケットから持ち上げて接続を外します。

  • ケーブルヘッドを持ち上げてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。ソケットを持ち上げてしまうと、基板から外れてしまう恐れがあります。

This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:

http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...

My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!

Rich - 返信

Pry the speaker connectors *up and out*. Doing it from the cable's sides, next to connectors, is easier.

Kitipong Mork - 返信

Not sure what happened, but when I put it back together, i barely had enough room to plug this back in. It’s like the cable shrunk. I had to really yank on it to get it to fit.

Jer - 返信

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、キーボードリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。 蝶番の固定フラップのみこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、キーボードリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。

  • 蝶番の固定フラップのみこじ開けてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ソケットからキーボードのロボンケーブルを引き上げて外します。

On Re-assembly, I found this to be the hardest part. I resorted to using the provided tweezers and taking turns left and right, working it back into its ZIF socket. If someone knows a better way, please share.

Fred Anderson - 返信

I just got done with this and my plus/equal, tilde/apostraphe, brackets/braces and volume up keys are not working. Wondering is this isn't seated correctly or if i damaged something. :-(

sturmjonny - 返信

This is one of the fussier flex cables to reconnect. I'd say it's worth opening it back up and reseating it. Only takes a few minutes—just disconnect the battery and then come straight to this step. Make sure the cable contacts are clean (wipe them with a little isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth), and that the connector is clear of any dirt/debris (give it a good blast or two with some compressed air). Make sure the cable is inserted perfectly flat and straight into the connector (this is the hardest part, just takes patience and a little dexterity). Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

This is really a pain to pull out. You sorta have to lift it up and out - I was worried I was going to flex the cable and break it too much.

Jer - 返信

Use the retaining flap to pull the ribbon cable back into the socket.

Andrew Dunning - 返信

DO NOT PRY!

I submitted some edits, but I’m not sure if or when they’ll show up.

The current description is misleading. There is a flexible flap that covers the ZIF socket, which you simply need to hold out of the way. On the ZIF socket there is a hard plastic retaining bar (not a ‘flap’) which you need to click up to release the ribbon cable. The cable should pop out once that is opened. You do NOT need a spudger to remove the cable. If it doesn’t pop out, simply lift it out by pulling up on the retaining flap.

I think some people are leaving the bar closed and trying to pry the cable out, which is possible but a very bad idea. No prying is required at all.

Douglas Krugman - 返信

so flipping helpful, thank you!!!

Darrell Hughes -

so flipping helpful!! thank you!!

Darrell Hughes -

Very important!!! It has a hinge, if you simply pop it up and toward the battery, the cable will release easily!

Tristan Harward -

I was unclear where the hinge was, so I watched https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmp-l9vH... and deciphered from his occasionally blurry video that the hinge is actually in the back part away from the battery.

Stephen Link - 返信

Thank you! Worth watching to get to that part!

Nicolle Hahn - 返信

This keyboard ribbon is so thin. It is like thinner than X-ray film. I was afraid to remove the ribbon from the socket. So, I skipped this step and follow other steps till ‘Step 30’. I didn't remove the logic board as shown in Step 31 and 32. Instead, I removed DC board screws and then DC board from the hole. The cable from the DC board connected at bottom corner of the logic board. I hold the MacBook Pro vertically and lift the logic board slightly and removed the DC board ‘plug’ from the socket. Next, I plugged in the new DC board and followed this procedure in reverse order ( from Step 30 to Step 1). Everything went fine. Important Note: When lifting logic board, please do it carefully and very slowly. Don’t be hurry and don’t break anything. Use magnifying glass and Magnifier in your iPhone to see the tiny parts big and clearly, before removing them.

Jay Rajamanickam - 返信

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからトラックパッドのリボンケーブルのコネクターを引き上げて外します。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、基板上のソケットからトラックパッドのリボンケーブルのコネクターを引き上げて外します。

コメントを追加する

基板上のソケットからキーボードのバックライトコネクターを持ち上げて接続を外します。
  • 基板上のソケットからキーボードのバックライトコネクターを持ち上げて接続を外します。

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーの先端や指の爪を使ってマイクリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを引き上げて、接続を外します。
  • スパッジャーの先端や指の爪を使ってマイクリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを引き上げて、接続を外します。

  • 蝶番の固定フラップを引き上げてください。ソケット自体には接触しないでください。

  • マイクリボンケーブルをソケットから外します。

A small elastic popped out when removing the cable. Glad I wore the protective glasses.

Louie - 返信

Meaning, pull the ribbon cable out horizontally. And be aware that the copper wiring is on the underside of the cable and the topside is just black plastic, so don’t freak out and think you ripped something pulling it out.

Chapman Harrison - 返信

スパッジャーの先端を使って、ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックを引き上げて、デバイスのDC-In側に向けて回します。 ディスプレイのデーターケーブルを基板上のソケットからまっすぐ引き上げます。
  • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックを引き上げて、デバイスのDC-In側に向けて回します。

  • ディスプレイのデーターケーブルを基板上のソケットからまっすぐ引き上げます。

  • ソケットはとても壊れやすい為、ディスプレイデーターケーブルを引き上げないでください。ケーブルを基板と平行に引っ張ります。

コメントを追加する

スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、MagSafe 2コネクタ付近の盛り上がったネジ頭上のゴム製のネジキャップを丁寧に外します。
  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、MagSafe 2コネクタ付近の盛り上がったネジ頭上のゴム製のネジキャップを丁寧に外します。

コメントを追加する

上部ケースに基板を固定している次の6本のネジを外します。
  • 上部ケースに基板を固定している次の6本のネジを外します。

    • 2.6 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.8 mm T5トルクスネジー2本

    • 3.8 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 5.2 mmナベ頭組込T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.5 mm シルバーT5トルクスネジー1本

While you're doing this, unplug the right speaker before you lift the logic board. That is the only step missing in the guide.

anthony - 返信

anthony: Unplugging the right speaker connector was done in step 23.

Kitipong Mork - 返信

when following on the contrary, its good to check all the ribbons and cables to make sure some are not stuck under board prior to screwing down.

Robert Gregory - 返信

green indicator: raised head screw is the one you removed the rubber cap from in prior step. (I removed – and then replaced — a different screw in this step. Revisited it with more daylight and saw my error.)

auntialias - 返信

バッテリーに一番近い側から本体デバイスの上部に向けて基板を持ち上げます。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、MagSafe 2コネクタを基板下側上のソケットからゆっくりと押して外します。 基板を再装着する際は、赤の印でマークされたケーブルの位置を確認してください。基板ときちんと接続されているか確認します。
  • バッテリーに一番近い側から本体デバイスの上部に向けて基板を持ち上げます。

  • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、MagSafe 2コネクタを基板下側上のソケットからゆっくりと押して外します。

  • 基板を再装着する際は、赤の印でマークされたケーブルの位置を確認してください。基板ときちんと接続されているか確認します。

    • 上から時計回りに:キーボード、トラックパッド、右側スピーカー、キーボードバックライト、ディスプレイ、マイク、ヘッドフォンジャック、左側スピーカー

In bullet #1 I lifted logic board from left side (nearest battery), tilted toward right side (port side) and pulled to to the left a bit to get ports out of chassis cutouts.

Then I followed bullet #2.

Kitipong Mork - 返信

Going revese order, remember about mic connector and backlit connector. Those nasty small tails are easy to omit. Then you will have to repeat disassembly to get them from under mainboard.

Radoslaw Przybyl - 返信

Agreed with Radoslaw's comment. It might even be nice to have a list of small cables to watch for during logic board reassembly.

talarohk - 返信

@radioerewan @talarohk - I think that's a good idea. I went ahead and added a photo showing all the cable locations to check—hopefully it will save someone some trouble! Thanks for your comments.

Jeff Suovanen - 返信

Yes heed everyone’s warning. I had to remove the entire logic board TWICE because i forgot to pull out the antennae and the backlit keyboard plug.

Jer - 返信

Yes, be very careful before screwing things down. I also forgot the backlight and the display cables. Had the cover for the display cable out, but not the actual cable. I was able to use tweezers to fish the cables out after removing the screws but without removing the whole board.

E Carlton Hays Jr - 返信

My logic board was stuck under the battery PCB, on the top right side of the battery PCB, when viewed like in the first picture.

I suggest removing the two screws from step 35 holding the PCB down for a little more wiggle room before attempting to remove the logic board.

Tom - 返信

I had to go back cause I couldn’t figure out where the logic board connector into (under the board). Funny enough i assembled it and it worked though the night and didn’t come on again. Had to go through the whole process b4 i figured it out. Definitely a good idea to at least breeze through all the images

Yemi Dalley - 返信

In link MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Logic Board Replacement step 34 the second picture exit the procedure install ZIP

raul - 返信

reassembly: so far the hardest step. After getting all the connectors above board, I still couldn’t quite line up the screw holes. It finally turned out that the board was being prevented from being in its full leftward position because the edge of a flange at the top of the USB port was directly positioned against the edge of a flange on the case. I used my thumbnail to press down on the port’s flange so that it slid under the case flange, allowing the board to shift left another half-millimeter and make everything finally line up.

Chapman Harrison - 返信

MacBook Proから基板アセンブリを取り出します。
  • MacBook Proから基板アセンブリを取り出します。

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プラスチックの開口ツールの先端を上部マイクの下に差し込みます。 開口ツールの先を上部マイクの下に沿って、接着剤を剥がしながらスライドします。
  • プラスチックの開口ツールの先端を上部マイクの下に差し込みます。

  • 開口ツールの先を上部マイクの下に沿って、接着剤を剥がしながらスライドします。

  • 同じ方法で、下部マイクの下にもツールを差し込んで接着剤を剥がしてください。

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マイクアセンブリをMacBook Proから取り出します。
  • マイクアセンブリをMacBook Proから取り出します。

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まとめ

デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。

2 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

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Sam Lionheart

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Scary... make one mistake with one of these fragile connectors and the MacBookPro is history... you'll be a braver man than me Gonga Din to tackle a job like this...

ranjit.rakhra - 返信

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