はじめに
このガイドを使って、フロントディスプレイガラスパネルを交換しましょう。
必要な工具と部品
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取付台タブを外すため、底ケースをわずかに持ち上げて、デバイス本体の背中側に向けて押します。
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.
Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!
Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.
Am I allowed to cry?
Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.
IFIXIT - IDIGIT!
kath myers - 返信
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
That was a brilliant read.
Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.
Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.
:)
Cary B -
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットからバッテリーコネクターを持ち上げます。
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
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カメラのデータケーブルを光学ドライブのチャンネルから巻き戻します。
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上部ケースに2つのディスプレイブラケットを固定している、外側の6.5 mm T8トルクスネジを2本外します。
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上部ケースとディスプレイを固定している最後のT8トルクスネジを外します。
When reassembling, Careful not to drop your screw, or it may get stuck to the (magnetic) power adapter port. Oops!
Save yourself some time and don't drop it!
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上部ケースを右手で掴んで、ディスプレイの上部に向けて若干回転させます。すると上部ディスプレイブラケットが上部ケースの先端から外れます。
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ディスプレイを上部ケースからわずかに外します。
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ヒートガンの温度を低温にして、ガラスパネルの上側右端付近の黒いボーダーに熱を当てます。
With a lot of heating, for me, it was very hard to get the glass to separate from the case. I had better luck starting from the bottom right as I could grip better onto the case. Three mistakes I made:
1. Once I got the glass separated, I probably didn't heat sufficiently as I was going around and the glass broke. That made the rest of the procedure miserable. Lesson: pull very gently.
2. I must have touched one of the tiny bits of glass that fell on the LCD and it scratched the actual screen. :-(. Lesson: vacuum the pieces as you go and be very careful when touching the LCD.
3. I somehow overheated the LCD screen at the top left and right corners and now the display is all wonky and faded at the corners. Not sure what the lesson is here.
First, if using a hair dryer, what setting should that be operated at? It would be much cooler than the heat gun, right?
Second, the iFixit basic set comes with a small, clear suction cup. Would that be sufficient for this project, or does it require the stronger pull of the other cups?
Finally, must I reapply adhesive to the case when replacing the glass? Does the original remain tacky and re-bond on assembly?
It's been a while since you asked, but since no one answered and someone else may have the same questions:
Hair dryers vary a lot, depending on wattage. I would start on low or med, and work my way up to high if necessary. I'd keep the fan on the lowest setting.
The little suction cup is for removing screens like the iMac, which just uses magnets, and possibly an iPad or iPhone. I would not want to use that for this project, get something about 2" wide with a decent handle.
The screen should have the double sided glue tape already applied, just remove the backing. I wouldn't get glass that doesn't have the tape on it, big waste of time with little savings in cost.
Jeff Kamis
All I can say for this is don't be tempted to hold the heat gun too close. I ended up burning my LCD the first time I did it and having to replace that when all I was looking to do was replace the cable. I got the glass off holding it about 4/5 inches from the screen and being patient (it took about 5/10 minutes in the end).
The tape is very sticky and the glass is very fragile but at the same time fairly flexible.....I ended up breaking the glass ans it turned out to be a mess picking up the shards....but in the end a new glass is not too costly. the implication is that heating melts the glue but it is really just double stick tape.....there are some "youtube" videos that are worth a look but I would suggest using guitar picks and not a putty knife which creates a point load that breaks the glass....wear safety glasses!!
Be ready to replace the glass (good thing mine was already broken, I ordered one). Wear surgery gloves and protective glasses. Trust your nose, if it smell melted plastic, it’s a good clue to stop the heat.
If you have a glass cover that is severely cracked then the heating gun and suction cup procedure really doesn’t work. Suction cups won’t hold and the already broken glass doesn’t lift. Here’s what I did that made the job easier. Using 2 inch wide transparent packing tape I laid it along the perimeter of the display but not covering the rubber edge. Then I used a 1/4 inch wood carving tool and very carefully removed the glass and 2 sided tape around the metal border. Use as your guide picture 2 in this step that shows where the camera and cable is located. Where the camera is located in the top center the 2 sided tape isn’t located so you can easily lift the glass. The camera cable runs up the right side in a trough in the metal border so when lifting the tape and glass in this area just keep the sharp end flat and it is wide enough it won’t dip into the trough and damage the cable. The tape was very helpful because it kept the glass from splintering and going everywhere.
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ヒートガンを使ってフロントガラスパネルの右側に沿って黒いストリップの下に付けれられた圧着剤を温めて柔らかくします。
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吸盤カップをフロントガラスパネルの右側に沿って装着します。
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ディスプレイアセンブリの残りからガラスパネルを引き離しながら、ガラスパネルを引き上げます。
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ディスプレイから外れるまで、引き続きフロントディスプレイガラスの右側端に沿ってスパッジャーをスライドします。
I ended up breaking my glass panel due to using the spudger. I think if you use something more like a small putty knife you will do better. The spudger puts a lot of pressure in a small spot while the putty knife would put a little pressure over a larger area. Also, if you do break the glass, be sure to get ALL of the broken bits off before putting the new one on. Also, watch out for those broken bits as they tend to penetrate skin quite easily, and stay there for days!
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デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
デバイスを再組み立てする際は、これらのインストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
70 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
翻訳を始める ›
7 件のコメント
If the glass you are replacing is badly broken the suction cups may not attach. I ended up having to remove the glass piece by piece and the process took a couple of hours. You should wear protective glasses and wear rubber gloves to prevent getting finger prints on the lcd screen. Although this was a time consuming process I was successful removing the broken glass and replacing without any issues.
I actually had the same problem as David but in 2 hrs I had removed all of the glass pieces. Now my MB looks like it had never fallen!
Thanks ifixit, you saved me €450.
PS. the parts were in Belgium in 3.5 days, I was amazed at how fast it was.
I found it more convenient to lay the computer keyboard-down on a table with the display hanging over the edge while performing steps 11–15.
The need for a hot air gun greatly increases the possibility of damaging various parts of the laptop [keyboard, airport antenna assembly, clutch cover, strip around the screen, even the screen, possibly the two brackets --- which allow the top and bottom cases to fold together for the clamshell effect --- which are not metal but rather plastic painted to look like metal]. Some people have spent the extra money to buy a special hot air gun with a small focused spout. But, the smarter, simpler, approach is to forget about replacing just the front glass cover and replace the entire display assembly instead. iFixIt is currently out of stock of entire display assemblies, but you can find them elsewhere on the Net for $100 or less. Instead of buying iFixIt's glass cover and recommended tools, I could have bought the entire display assembly for about the same money.
The thickness / coverage of the area available to put the adhesive is plentiful which allows you to use more adhesive than you need. Anyway what I use is red double sided tape as it's adhesive strength is very good and the thickness is good to use in this case. It's called 'PET red double sided transparent tape'.
I think iFixit sells rolls of them which aren't really expensive at all.
Ben -
Followed this, step by step, using a mid power hair dryer as the heat source. No difficulties what so ever. Everything came apart as expected, leaving the cables in the clamshell and not stuck to the glass on removal. Paid attention to getting the glass and the LCD as clean as possible before re assembly. Now the cracked screen that was in six parts is replaced with a replacement glass and everything works as it should and no dirt or debris between the glass or LCD. I purposely used a hairdryer as heat guns are notoriously powerful, and just took my time with the glass removal. No heat destroyed rubber seal or condensation on removal. Patience is the name of the game with this repair...
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
David Kilbridge - 返信
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - 返信
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - 返信
I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)
Cary B - 返信