はじめに

Use this guide to replace the I/O board.

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

      • Two 9 mm screws

      • Eight 2.6 mm screws

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

  2. To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.
    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

  3. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

  4. Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

    • During reassembly, make sure this cable is in the correct orientation. It will fit if reversed, but the laptop will not boot.

  5. The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

  6. Free shipping on all orders over $100.00 or containing a Pro Tech Toolkit!

    当社のショップを閲覧する

    Ever fixed something? That’s Genius.

    Share your repair story with #ImAGenius

    We Are All Geniuses

    Share your repair story with #ImAGenius

  7. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  8. Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

  9. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

      • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

  10. Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case. Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

  11. Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

  12. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

  13. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  14. Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

  15. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.
    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

  16. Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.
    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

まとめ

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

19 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。

Jeff Suovanen

メンバー登録日: 2013年08月06日

207,063 ポイント

177のガイドは作成済み

チーム

iFixit iFixit人のメンバー

Community

109 メンバー

7,761のガイドは作成済み

I did this as my first DIY repair inside a MacBook. I'm pretty handy, but nothing close to a computer tech. I studied the guide a few times; ordered the Pentalope driver; bought a magnifying hobby light; set up an organized workstation and went to work. I did sweat through several of the cable and ribbon strap removals, but if you take your time and follow the guide it should work. I did find that having a set of precision tweezers and a couple of plastic spudgers was extremely helpful.

My need to attempt this was the result of stupidly spilling a beer all across my keyboard. After drying it out via a fan blowing on it 24/7 for 2 days I decided to crack it open and look for water damage to the LSI's . The area that appeared to be hit the worst was the I/0 board. So I removed it & cleaned with Isopropyl. Afterward, everything fired up and seemed to work fine. Until today. Now the left USB port seems to have died. Probably will replace the board. This guide made it possible. Thanks Jeff and Ifixit.

Jay Quilty - 返信

Very precise guide. I’d say I had this apart, the new board in and put back together in about 30 minutes. like stated above, take your time with some of the more delicate cables and you should be fine. Thanks Jeff.

tristan wy - 返信

統計データを表示:

過去 24時間: 7

過去 7 日: 44

過去 30 日: 251

今までの合計 10,604