1. 作業を始める前に、MacBookの電源を落として下さい。ディスプレイを閉じ柔らかい表面の上に置いてください。
    • 作業を始める前に、MacBookの電源を落として下さい。ディスプレイを閉じ柔らかい表面の上に置いてください。

    • P5ペンタローブドライバーを使って、下部ケースをはずしてください。ネジは次の長さに分かれます。

    • 9mm ネジー 2本

    • 2.6mm ネジー 8本

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - 返信

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - 返信

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - 返信

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - 返信

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - 返信

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - 返信

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - 返信

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - 返信

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - 返信

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - 返信

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - 返信

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - 返信

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - 返信

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - 返信

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - 返信

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - 返信

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - 返信

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - 返信

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - 返信

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - 返信

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - 返信

  2. ディスプレイと下部ケースの間に指を入れ、上に引っ張って下部ケースを本体から外します。
    • ディスプレイと下部ケースの間に指を入れ、上に引っ張って下部ケースを本体から外します。

    • 下部ケースを取り外して脇に置きます。

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - 返信

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - 返信

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?


  3. アクシデントで放電や感電を防ぐために、ロジックボードからバッテリコネクタを外してください。 バッテリコネクタに付いている透明なプラスチック製のプルタブをつかみ、Airの前端に向かって引っ張り、ロジックボードからバッテリの接続を外します。
    • アクシデントで放電や感電を防ぐために、ロジックボードからバッテリコネクタを外してください。

    • バッテリコネクタに付いている透明なプラスチック製のプルタブをつかみ、Airの前端に向かって引っ張り、ロジックボードからバッテリの接続を外します。

    • コネクタをバッテリー側に向けて水平に引っ張ってください。ロジックボード上のソケットにダメージを与えてしまうため、Air本体から上に引っぱらないでください。

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - 返信

    My plastic tab pulled off the connector. I worked the connection apart using two spurgers, slowly backing it out side to side.

    Ric Thistlethwaite - 返信

  4. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボード上のソケットからI/Oボードケーブルのコネクタを上向きに跳ね上げます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボード上のソケットからI/Oボードケーブルのコネクタを上向きに跳ね上げます。

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben - 返信

    Hi, Can the 13” Logicboard of 2012/2013/2014 or 2015 be compatible in the 2011 model?.

    verma1986 - 返信

  5. ファン上部からI/Oボードケーブルを慎重に剥がします。
    • ファン上部からI/Oボードケーブルを慎重に剥がします。

  6. 次のコネクタには特にソケットが深くなっています。慎重に、ソケットから外してください。 I / Oボードケーブルをロジックボードとの接続付近に向けて慎重に引き上げて、スパッジャーの先端を使ってコネクタの両側を上向きにソケットから引き抜きます。
    • 次のコネクタには特にソケットが深くなっています。慎重に、ソケットから外してください。

    • I / Oボードケーブルをロジックボードとの接続付近に向けて慎重に引き上げて、スパッジャーの先端を使ってコネクタの両側を上向きにソケットから引き抜きます。

    • I / Oボードケーブルを取り出します。

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis - 返信

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard - 返信

  7. スパッジャーの先端を使って、ファンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、ファンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。

    • ソケット自体ではなく、蝶番になった固定フラップのみを持ち上げているか確認してください。

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto - 返信

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed - 返信

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom - 返信

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard - 返信

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko - 返信

    The hardest part is to put the fan cable back in the ZIF socket.

    (Why do people say you don’t have to unplug the cable? that makes no sense)

    Digital Blended - 返信

    after putting the cable back in the fan is very loud, can someone help?

    Ramon majem - 返信

  8. ファンの上部にゴム製ガスケットを留めている接着剤を剥がします。
    • ファンの上部にゴム製ガスケットを留めている接着剤を剥がします。

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi - 返信

    Where can I purchase a replacement gasket? It’s missing after the repair place opened my computer

    Erin Kaspar-Frett - 返信

  9. 上部ケースにファンを固定している次の3本のネジを外します。
    • 上部ケースにファンを固定している次の3本のネジを外します。

    • 3.6 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 2.7 mm T5トルクスネジー1本

    • 3.6 mm T5トルクスネジ(短頭)ー1本

    When reinstalling, start all three screws before tightening down. There’s some play in these holes, and you will have trouble lining them up if you tighten one down first.

    Curtis Kline - 返信

  10. 上部ケースからファンを持ち上げて、ファンのリボンケーブルをソケットから引き出し、Air本体から取り出します。
    • 上部ケースからファンを持ち上げて、ファンのリボンケーブルをソケットから引き出し、Air本体から取り出します。

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 - 返信

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon - 返信

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries - 返信

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey - 返信

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen - 返信

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett - 返信

  11. ロジックボード上のソケットから電源ケーブルを引き抜いて、I/O ボードの接続を外します。
    • ロジックボード上のソケットから電源ケーブルを引き抜いて、I/O ボードの接続を外します。

    • Airの右側端側のロジックボードの表面と平行にケーブルを引き抜きます。

  12. I / Oボード表面と平行にカメラケーブルをAirのコーナー側に向けて引き抜いてソケットから切り離します。スパッジャーの先端を使って、コネクタをソケットから押し出します。
    • I / Oボード表面と平行にカメラケーブルをAirのコーナー側に向けて引き抜いてソケットから切り離します。スパッジャーの先端を使って、コネクタをソケットから押し出します。

    • このケーブルを外すときに、ケーブルを上向きに持ち上げないでください。ソケットがロジックボードを破損する可能性があります。

    Mine was very reluctant... couldn't get any purchase with a spudger, had to use flat tweezers to get enough grip on the cable. Exerted slowly increasing pull, but when it came out, it broke loose suddenly.

    Allen - 返信

    My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.

    Phillip Remaker - 返信

    Mine too, only a slot where a cable was passing,

    Gianni Borghesan -

  13. Nintendo Switch 修理キット


    Switch 修理キットページへ

    Nintendo Switch 修理キット


    Switch 修理キットページへ
  14. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボード上のソケットから左側スピーカーケーブルコネクタを持ち上げて外します。 ワイヤーの下から持ち上げてください。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、I/Oボード上のソケットから左側スピーカーケーブルコネクタを持ち上げて外します。

    • ワイヤーの下から持ち上げてください。

    • I/Oボード上のリテイナーから左側スピーカーケーブルを巻き戻してください。

    On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

    Anyone know what this means.

    Daniel Thomas - 返信

  15. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マイクロフォンリボンケーブルのコネクタをI/Oボード上のソケットからこじ開けます。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、マイクロフォンリボンケーブルのコネクタをI/Oボード上のソケットからこじ開けます。

    • ワイヤの下からこじ開けます。

    Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.

    Dallas Guy - 返信

    What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?

    adamwitz -

    I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!

    Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.


    Lorenzo Cangiano - 返信

    Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!

    Lorenzo Cangiano -

    I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.

    coopermarcus - 返信

    Maybe I just lucked out but removing the mic cable was about the same effort as the left speaker cable. I wasn't ready to try Lorenzo's workaround above without a photo guide, so took my chances. Your mileage may vary.

    Allen - 返信

    I find it very helpful that you give directions on where to pry, and how to address each connection. I’m always hesitant for fear of snapping something off, so I appreciate this detail. Thanks.

    Adam Goldstein - 返信

  16. I/Oボードを上部ケースに固定している3.6mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。
    • I/Oボードを上部ケースに固定している3.6mm T5トルクスネジを1本外します。

    The screw was stripped and I couldn’t remove it, but it didn’t matter, I could complete removal of the logic board without removing the I/O board. I think the steps involved with disconnecting the I/O board are redundant.

    Nigel Anderson - 返信

  17. ロジックボードに一番近い端から I/Oボードを慎重に持ち上げて、上部ケースから取り出します。
    • ロジックボードに一番近い端から I/Oボードを慎重に持ち上げて、上部ケースから取り出します。

    When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.

    coopermarcus - 返信

    Also on reassembly, make sure the speaker and microphone cables are visible before securing the i/o board!

    davecortesi - 返信

  18. バッテリーを上部ケースに固定している次の5本のネジを外します。
    • バッテリーを上部ケースに固定している次の5本のネジを外します。

    • 6.3mm T5トルクスネジ 3本

    • 2.4mm T5トルクスネジ 2本

    Be careful when screwing in again not to overtighten, the plastic of the battery breaks easily with tightening.

    Mike Dacre - 返信

  19. バッテリー取り外す際は、4つのリチウムポリマーセルを握ったり触らないでください。
    • バッテリー取り外す際は、4つのリチウムポリマーセルを握ったり触らないでください。

    • バッテリーをロジックボードに近い端から持ち上げて、上部ケースから取り出します。

  20. スパッジャーもしくは指先を使って、トラックパッドのリボンケーブルZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。 ソケット自体ではなく、ヒンジ状の固定フラップを持ち上げてください。
    • スパッジャーもしくは指先を使って、トラックパッドのリボンケーブルZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。

    • ソケット自体ではなく、ヒンジ状の固定フラップを持ち上げてください。

    • トラックパッドリボンケーブルを、Airのフロントエッジ側に向けてソケットからまっすぐ引き抜いてください。

    Disaster strikes. I pulled away the socket itself (just like it says not to). Is there any possibility to re-connect it, or did I just ruin the whole logic board?

    Nigel Anderson - 返信

    I lost the retaining flap so I don’t know if it can stay in place without the retaining flap

    SK Alias - 返信

  21. スパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードのバックライトリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。 ソケット自体ではなく、ヒンジ状の固定フラップを持ち上げているか確認してください。
    • スパッジャーの先端を使って、キーボードのバックライトリボンケーブルのZIFソケット上の固定フラップを持ち上げます。

    • ソケット自体ではなく、ヒンジ状の固定フラップを持ち上げているか確認してください。

    • スパッジャーを使って、ソケットからケーブルを引き抜きます。

  22. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから右側スピーカーケーブルのコネクタを外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、ロジックボード上のソケットから右側スピーカーケーブルのコネクタを外します。

    • ケーブルの下からこじ開けます。

    To snap back in, place speaker cable connector directly on top of socket and press down with your finger or tool.

    anonymous 6745 - 返信

    This has to be done very gently. I only applied a mild lift and the socket broke off from the board. I had to say good-bye to the right speaker. :-(

    Kuro Kurosaka - 返信

  23. スパッジャーの先端を、ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックに付けられた黒いプラスチックのフラップ下に慎重に押し込んで、ロックを上方に持ち上げてソケットから外します。 ロックをソケットから離しながら、スパッジャーの先端と指を使って、ソケットからディスプレイデータケーブルをゆっくりと外します。 デイスプレイデーターケーブルを上向きに引っ張らないでください。ソケットがロジックボードから外れてしまう可能性があります。
    • スパッジャーの先端を、ディスプレイデータケーブルのロックに付けられた黒いプラスチックのフラップ下に慎重に押し込んで、ロックを上方に持ち上げてソケットから外します。

    • ロックをソケットから離しながら、スパッジャーの先端と指を使って、ソケットからディスプレイデータケーブルをゆっくりと外します。

    • デイスプレイデーターケーブルを上向きに引っ張らないでください。ソケットがロジックボードから外れてしまう可能性があります。

    Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

    Christopher Fernandes - 返信

    I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

    Gian Carlo -

    Agree. Use tweezers.

    sdcsoup -

  24. スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、アンテナケーブルコネクタをAirPort/Bluetoothカード上のソケットから持ち上げて、外します。 スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、アンテナケーブルコネクタをAirPort/Bluetoothカード上のソケットから持ち上げて、外します。
    • スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、アンテナケーブルコネクタをAirPort/Bluetoothカード上のソケットから持ち上げて、外します。

    When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

    Ringo CoC - 返信

    Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

    yuroen - 返信

    I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

    kcunningham - 返信

  25. アンテナケーブルを、ロジックボードに付いているスロットの溝から解いて外します。
    • アンテナケーブルを、ロジックボードに付いているスロットの溝から解いて外します。

  26. ロジックボードにSSDを固定している2.85mm T5トルクスネジを外します。
    • ロジックボードにSSDを固定している2.85mm T5トルクスネジを外します。

  27. ソケットにダメージを与えないように、SSDの先端を過度に持ち上げないでください。 ドライブをソケットからまっすぐ引き抜き、ロジックボードから外します。
    • ソケットにダメージを与えないように、SSDの先端を過度に持ち上げないでください。

    • ドライブをソケットからまっすぐ引き抜き、ロジックボードから外します。

    • SSDを再装着する際は、ネジを締める前に正しい位置に取り付けているか確認してください。

    Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

    divinity76 - 返信

  28. ロジックボードを上部ケースに固定している6.3mmT5トルクスネジを6本外します。
    • ロジックボードを上部ケースに固定している6.3mmT5トルクスネジを6本外します。

    Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

    Timothy Button - 返信

    These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

    Timothy Button - 返信

    My screws were 4.xx mm

    Gabe - 返信

    These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

    Doc Halstater - 返信

    I’ll second this observation.

    sjosefw -

    When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

    Shiv Sikand - 返信

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - 返信

  29. 左側クラッチのヒンジとアンテナケーブルリテイナーを上部ケースに固定している内側の4.9mmT8トルクスネジを2本外します。
    • 左側クラッチのヒンジとアンテナケーブルリテイナーを上部ケースに固定している内側の4.9mmT8トルクスネジを2本外します。

    These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - 返信

    This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

    forestsprite -

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - 返信

    Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

    kcunningham - 返信

    fyi, mine were T8

    jmull - 返信

    My hinge screws were T9, and fit very snugly. If your screwdrivers are not a precision set, such that the T9 is too tight, you can use T8, but it won’t be good for the screw heads.

    Josh - 返信

  30. アンテナケーブルのリテイナーをわずかに押し出して、上部ケースにヒートシンクの先端を固定している3mm T5トルクスネジを外します。
    • アンテナケーブルのリテイナーをわずかに押し出して、上部ケースにヒートシンクの先端を固定している3mm T5トルクスネジを外します。

    "remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

    yurkennis - 返信

    When I was re-assembling, the screw hole of the heat sink didn’t align. I applied a mild force then the edge of the heat sink broke off from the rest, losing the contact to the case. I am hoping the Air would work for a while during the test run (if it ever works) but I would buy a replacement heat sink for regular use.

    Kuro Kurosaka - 返信

  31. 慎重に上部ケースからロジックボードアセンブリを取り出します。ケーブルが絡まっていないかご注意ください。
    • 慎重に上部ケースからロジックボードアセンブリを取り出します。ケーブルが絡まっていないかご注意ください。

    • ロジックボード先端のヒートシンクを、上部ケースから持ち上げる際に、作業の邪魔にならないようアンテナケーブルを離してください。

    On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.

    davecortesi - 返信

  32. 上部ケースに刻まれた溝からアンテナケーブルを慎重に巻き戻して外します。
    • 上部ケースに刻まれた溝からアンテナケーブルを慎重に巻き戻して外します。

  33. 上部ケースに右側ディスプレイヒンジを固定している、内側の4.9mm T8トルクスネジを2本外します。
    • 上部ケースに右側ディスプレイヒンジを固定している、内側の4.9mm T8トルクスネジを2本外します。

    • 先の手順で役立つため、意図的に3つ目のネジは残しておきます。

    Again, these are T9 screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - 返信

    Dear all,

    on my Air I dropped water and now the display looks without backlight... I can type with no issue, as well the backlight of the keyboard is working fine, audio too but the display doesn't show the light also if boosted at top. What's happened?


    sev7en - 返信

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    Like in Step28 I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. Comes in handy in Step 33 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - 返信

    Does anyone know if it will work without the display assembly all together? I just want to remove it and plug into an external monitor.

    Andrew White - 返信

    I recommend to loosen outward screws at this step, so it is easier to completely unscrew them on the next step.

    yurkennis - 返信

    My tip is to open the case so the screen is 90º to the base and then lay the MBA down with the keyboard on the work surface with the screen hanging down the front of your work bench. This makes it much easier to work with and reassembly is much easier.

    If you follow this tip, go ahead and take all the remaining four hinge screws out now. You can now easily lift off the lid and set it aside. Now skip to step 36.

    Reassembly Hint: Use this method to get all 4 screws started and before you do the final tighten, back them off ¼ turn, close up the clamshell and lay it on your work bench screen side down Now make sure the top does not overhang the bottom and are aligned by running your fingers around the perimeter. When you are happy with the alignment, tighten all four screws.

    Hope that helps.

    Josh - 返信

    I agree with Josh : makes it very easy to remove~replace the screen lid using one hand to stop it falling to the floor and the other to remove the last 2 screws and then to replace those 2 screws when re-assembling.

    Andrew Gordon - 返信

  34. ディスプレイが上部ケースと直角になるまで開いて、画像のようにテーブル上に配置します。
    • ディスプレイが上部ケースと直角になるまで開いて、画像のようにテーブル上に配置します。

    • Airをしっかりと固定しながら、下側ディスプレイのブラケットから残りの4.9mm T8トルクスネジを外します。

    During reassembly, once the two screws are in the left and right hinges, close the laptop and flip it over so that the display is down on the table. Run your fingers along the edge of the laptop where the display meets the lower assembly. If it is not flush, loosen the two screws in the hinges slightly and adjust, then retighten.

    Ethan Cross - 返信

  35. 最後のディスプレイのネジを外す前に、もう一方の手でディスプレイと上部ケースをしっかりと持ってください。 コンポーネントをテーブル上に落下させてしまうと、高額修理となる損傷を引き起こす可能性があります。
    • 最後のディスプレイのネジを外す前に、もう一方の手でディスプレイと上部ケースをしっかりと持ってください。 コンポーネントをテーブル上に落下させてしまうと、高額修理となる損傷を引き起こす可能性があります。

    • ディスプレイと上部ケースを固定している、最後の4.9mm T8トルクスネジを外します。

  36. 上部ケースをディスプレイアセンブリ側にわずかに押し出して、ディスプレイアセンブリ前面から取り出します。
    • 上部ケースをディスプレイアセンブリ側にわずかに押し出して、ディスプレイアセンブリ前面から取り出します。

    • 2つのディスプレイヒンジが上部ケースより解放されたら、ディスプレイを取り出して、安全な場所に保管します。

    Reassembly Hint: My tip is to lay bottom case with the keyboard on the work surface with the rear edge hanging over the front of your work bench. Approach with the screen side of the lid facing the workbench and 90º to it. Lower the screen hinges into place. This makes it much easier to work with and reassemble.


    Use this method to get all 4 screws started and before you do the final tighten, back them off ¼ turn, close up the clamshell and lay it on your work bench screen side down Now make sure the top does not overhang the bottom and are aligned by running your fingers around the perimeter. When you are happy with the alignment, tighten all four screws.

    Hope that helps.

    Josh - 返信

    I agree with Josh : makes it very easy to remove~replace the screen lid using one hand to stop it falling to the floor and the other to remove the last 2 screws or to replace those 2 screws

    Andrew Gordon - 返信


87 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。



これらの翻訳者の方々は世界を修理する私たちのサポートをしてくれています。 あなたも貢献してみませんか?
翻訳を始める ›


Andrew Bookholt

540,089 ポイント


21 件のコメント

Sure would be nice if you could either add to the guide or have a new guide that continued the process and actually disassembled the screen assembly. It is no more difficult to take apart the display than it is to take apart an iPad.

jonlobb86 - 返信

Thanks a ton for this guide! I got my MBAir back in working order in about an hour. The only weird thing I noticed was my MBAir battery unexpectedly registering at 0% upon re-seating. But it's charging so I suppose all's well that ends well.

jasontomczak - 返信

This guide is way more than needed for the display replacement. Until it gets edited down, all you need to do is steps 1-3, 12, 22-24, 28, 31-35 from the "upper case replacement" guide (which is apparently what this guide is right now, instead of a display replacement guide as it is labeled).

brentp - 返信

This is a really great comment! Thanks, you've saved me lots of time!

Charles -

Thank you! Valuable comment!

pzhivulin -

That’s not entirely correct. If you skip the motherboard lifting steps, you’ll have to cut the plastic strips that keep the AirPort/BT cables in place, before you can deroute them (at least in my Mid-2011 Air). To deroute the cables you’ll also have to remove at least one motherboard screw, in order to slightly lift the area of the MoBo under which the AP/BT cables run.

Emanuele Fiorillo -

I removed the display assembly even without removing the fan or the Logic Board. I don't see why it's necessary =)

Marhowl - 返信

I just replaced my display. While some may complain about the details, I found it extremely helpful. It took my novice hands much longer than advertised, but I suspect my next time around, I will be able to do this in half the time. Thank you iFixit!!

macman2 - 返信

The screw mat is missing some screws: the battery screws are not correctly identified on it. Other than that, excellent guide with very clear instructions and warnings. The whole process of replacing the display assembly took about 45 minutes, working carefully.

panaman - 返信

It's not needed to remove any components besides disconnecting the battery and cables that connect to this screen. There are way too many unneeded steps here. Look at this guy replace the assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB3QGsp5...

Mike - 返信

Hi! Thanks for the guide.

I was wondering if I can use the monitor of the MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012 to replace the monitor of my MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011.

Many thanks in advance.


k4noooooooooo - 返信

2010-2012 compatible. 2013-present cables too long although screen will work.

RJ Smith -

very clean, sexy handzz :)

Aleksander - 返信

This is the right guide for LCD replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3lhuy3s...

pzhivulin - 返信

I have just done this, and all you need to do is take the display off, not remove the logic board. I did remove the fan for access, but I am not even sure that you need to do that. Very easy and straight toward job, only fiddly bit is reconnecting the two antennae connectors, but this is no different with the logic board in or out

chris haines - 返信

I have a broken screen. Should I expect just to pay for a screen replacement and not the display assembly to get the screen happy?

Please confirm if I could use a screen from a mid-2012 MacBook Air to use on my mid-2011 MacBook Air. Thank you.

downdog89 - 返信

we repair mac book in pune, india. DNA Computers..http://www.dnacomputers.in

DNA Computers - 返信

Thanks for the write up. It was perfect to help change the display for 2011 13 inch macbook air

couple of connectors for antenna was bit tedious to reconnect. Rest isnt that difficult

g pb - 返信

Great instructions. Used the iFixit Classic Pro Tech Toolkit, which has all the necessary tools (and then some). Thank you!

wednai - 返信

I don’t need to replace my display, but I would like to adjust / tighten its hinge– it got rather lose and shaky over the years. Is this possible without disassembling it all? Anybody got experience?

Marco Binder - 返信



過去 24時間: 12

過去 7 日: 84

過去 30 日: 480

今までの合計 111,654