Heavily Modified or Homemade 3D Printer Heated Bed Connection Repair

はじめに

The current printer being worked on is a Tevo Tarantula DIY 3D printer, here are some other printers that will work with this guide:

Creality Ender 3
Anet A8
Anycubic i3 Mega
Prusa i3

This guide will help to replace a burnt or faulty connection on the heated bed due to cable strain or when using too high of a temperature. We will be replacing the connection with a much heavier duty connector that will last longer.

Before you follow this guide, ensure that it is the heated bed connection and not the controller board connection. If it is the latter, you may wish to use the soldering technique guide in order to desolder and replace the terminals or solder joints as required.

Disconnect all power before performing any maintenance on the printer to avoid electrocution.

必要な工具と部品

手順1 Heated Bed

Heavily Modified or Homemade 3D Printer Heated Bed Connection Repair, Heated Bed: 手順 1、 3の画像 1

Heavily Modified or Homemade 3D Printer Heated Bed Connection Repair, Heated Bed: 手順 1、 3の画像 2

Heavily Modified or Homemade 3D Printer Heated Bed Connection Repair, Heated Bed: 手順 1、 3の画像 3

Remove the four screws from the corners of the panel covering the controller board.
This may be found in various places of the printer depending on the model of the printer. Refer to the user manual or trace back wires from the heated bed.
The most common areas include: mounted on the side of the printer, underneath in the base of the printer, and inside an externally located control box.

編集

手順2

Heavily Modified or Homemade 3D Printer Heated Bed Connection Repair: 手順 2、 3の画像 3

Locate the heated bed and temperature sensor connectors.
Here on the MKS Gen L V1.0 it is labeled H-BED and TB for Heated Bed and Thermistor Bed. Refer to a Pinout Diagram for your specific board.
Common boards include: Creality V1/V2, MKS Gen L V1.0/V1.4, MKS BASE V1.4, Einsy RAMBo, SKR v1.3/v1.4.
Remove the connection for the heated bed.
Remove the connector for the temperature sensor.

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手順3

Heavily Modified or Homemade 3D Printer Heated Bed Connection Repair: 手順 3、 3の画像 3

Remove four thumb nuts from the corners of the heated bed.
Use a screwdriver if needed to hold screws in place while removing the thumb nuts.
Remove the heated bed from the Y-carriage.

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手順4

Heavily Modified or Homemade 3D Printer Heated Bed Connection Repair: 手順 4、 3の画像 3

Desolder the damaged cable or connector.
For tips on soldering, check out the はんだ付けとはんだ除去の作業ガイド guide.
Take note of the polarity and which is for power and the thermistor. You may wish to take a picture for future reference. Red is for '+', Black is for '-'.
Do not use force to remove the cable or connector; doing this may rip the pads out.
Work in a well ventilated area when soldering; a fume extractor is recommended.

編集

手順5

この手順で使用する道具：

Desoldering Pump

$3.99

購入する

Remove the old solder by using a solder pump or solder wick.
Re-tin the pads with fresh solder.
Use isopropyl alcohol to clean up any residue around the connections.

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手順6

Heavily Modified or Homemade 3D Printer Heated Bed Connection Repair: 手順 6、 3の画像 3

Strip 1/4" from both ends of the wire and tin.
Check out the following guide for help with stripping wires: Wire Stripping.
Solder the wire onto the heated bed.
It is safe to bridge the connection if both pads are of the same polarity.
If your bed has a built-in LED, polarity will matter, otherwise it does not matter. Polarity does not matter on thermistor.

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手順7

Apply Kapton Tape over the connection.
Solder an XT60 connector to the other end of the wire.
How to Use Heat Shrink Tubing
Terminate cables coming from the controller board with an XT60 connector as well.
If polarity matters, take note when soldering the XT60 connector.

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手順8

Reinstall and calibrate the heated bed.

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終わりに

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. You may want to calibrate the Z-axis end stops and re-level the bed before printing.