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2019年9月25日発売の第7世代iPad、32GBモデルと128GBモデルがあります。型番はA2197。

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Black screen of death, LED powering up, but no display.

I have opened this iPad and tried swapping out the LED for a new one from eBay, but the same issue occurs where the machine powers up, digitizer works with voiceover mode on, but there is no display whatsoever shown.

I tried all the usual methods of reset, reboot, hard reset, recovery mode, but there is something wrong with the LED output.

Im assuming this is a circuitry issue, but don't know how to discern that from looking at the internals.

Can anyone tell if this is an issue that some soldering would fix? In other words, do you guys see a visual issue with the board? I don't have anything unplugged in these pictures to expose the pins, would that be necessary to tell if there is an issue?

Thank you!!!

Rick

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Update (12/12/2022)

@flannelist here some pictures I took.

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I see some "scuffs" where the arrow points and the components that have the 2 red dots, but am unsure what these are. Does anything stand out? If the resolution is crap, I will post some high res stuff assuming the forum allows.

I appreciate the attempt to identify my issue, but more importantly the info given to help me learn what I'm looking at and how to troubleshoot!!! Thank you

Apple wanted to replace it for $250 for same model, but since this one just crapped out, there was no way I was doing that.

Update (12/12/2022)

Posting a couple more clearer pics. I have a multimeter and am going to look into how to test the diodes. I assume I'll start with the LED pins and see what I can report back with.

Presumably if this is a diode or board issue, this would still require advanced skills to actually fix, but ideally I could get a shop to fix it for cheap since I might identify the exact issue for them.

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@oldturkey03 its hard to say from the photos, its possible that the filter is bad but without it being checked with a multimeter i can't say.

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Do you see an image if you shine a flashlight at the display? Backlight circuitry failure is a common issue, especially if previous repair had been attempted with iPads. On these newer models this is often a bad diode (blown filters are more likely to be a touch issue) but could be any number of issues.

If no image at all there's still hope.

Post some pictures of the board without the digitizer and display disconnected. I would also peel off the sticker here in case a fried component is really obvious.

If you have a multimeter (you'll probably want some fine point leads if you don't have any) you can use diode mode to test the pins in the connector against known good values.

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@flannelist I do not see an image when holding the flashlight up to it while it's powered on so that's good. I can see the backlight is lit, but no display whatsoever.

I will try removing the stickers and disconnect everything to post the pictures today.

I'm a relative newbie at this so it would take me some time to figure out how to test the diodes, etc. :)

Thank you for your response!

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@rickmares Got it. I must have have overlooked the “backlight is on” bit of your post. If you’re getting backlight but no image, have already tried a different LCD (it sounds like you have) and the usual software fixes, this certainly sounds like it could be a board issue. Do you have any particular history of the device? Drop? Bend?

Unfortunately the iPad 7 is notorious for issues with CPU disconnect. This is not the typical presentation of that issue, but it’s possible. Even that’s fixable, but requires someone with rather advanced skills to perform.

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@rickmares Also I had a look at the components you referenced in the picture. Those are unlikely to be an issue if you are getting it to boot. Those components are part of the circuitry for the smart connector. Nothing else looks amiss to me, but looks don't mean everything.

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Thanks, I am going to attempt to find and test the filter diodes as I've spent quite a bit of time just learning about the basics of this stuff. I'll report back if I think I've found a diode or anything that I think may be the cause from the multimeter tests.

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Just an update on this issue. I am able to use 3u tools to view and control the screen with the "airplay" tool and it looks as if it works fine but still no display on the LED. However, I ended up giving it to a BatteriesPlus store to try to repair and they sent it back stating a "short on the CPU" and it's unfixable. I guess I don't understand why this is unfixable since it all appears* to be working except for the display. Anyways, that's how it stands now. thanks for all the help

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I wasn't able to discern anything clear to determine the cause of this issue. I see a few components that look suspicious compared to others, but I don't have the skills to figure it out exactly. I'm going to try to bring it to a shop and see what they may be able to figure out. I'll report back here if I ever get clarity on what was causing my issue to possible help others

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Rick さん、ありがとうございました!
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