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Repair and information guide for the GE Café Refrigerator CYE22TSH****, a bottom-mounted freezer and French Door access refrigerator, introduced in 2014, that includes an automatic ice maker and a Thru the Door Service feature. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern CYE22TSH****.

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GE profile fridge not running, cooling, int. light out, no ice

I have a 3 year old GE profile refrigerator model cye22tshsss. Noticed the water and ice dispenser were not working, then opened the fridge to find interior light did not go on and it was not as cool as it should be. Unplugged fridge, waited 5 minutes, plugged back in, and fan/cooler is working and interior light goes on. Ice and water dispenser still don’t work. 30 minutes later fridge turns off again, so I un plug and replug it and everything works….for a while. It keeps shutting down so I have to keep rebooting it until I can get a tech out here. From some of the other threads on this site, it looks like a common problem and the master board has to be replaced, and there may be a recall where GE provides a master circuit board for free. Just wondering if anyone thinks there are any other possible causes. The ice/water motor was replaced about 2 months ago. Oh, btw these GE fridges are a POS, imho.

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Hi @djhellyeah,

See if you make it happen when the fridge is running i.e. compressor and evap fan running, by manually operating and releasing the refrigerator door light switch to see if the light goes off and on every time you operate/release the switch.

The evap fan should also stop when the light is on i.e. switch released, and start again when switch is operated i.e. the light is off. Hopefully you can hear it stop and start. The compressor should continue to run though and not stop.

I think that normally, the water/ice dispensers won't operate when the door is open and the only way the control board knows this is by the fact that the door switch is released.

If the fan doesn’t start again check that the switch is electrically OK.

Have encountered a similar problem recently where the door switch contacts were corroded which meant that it couldn’t signal the control board what was happening with the door. Admittedly this only affected it when the set temps had been reached or the fridge was in its auto defrost cycle so the compressor and evap fan had been both turned off and because of this the temps started to rise slowly which is normal. The only way to restart them was to power down and reset the control board as they wouldn’t start again as they would normally do i.e. due to a temp rise or the end of the defrost cycle. Once reset and running, the same problem happened again when the set temps were reached (however long that took), or a defrost cycle occurred approx. 8-10 hours later.

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Thank for replying. I think that makes sense. The tech showed up and said it’s the motherboard, so we’ll see if that fixes it (the motherboard is under warranty)

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Have you inspected the condenser coil, it is the coil outside the unit, is there any obstructions or is the fan blade dirty? is there heat being rejected from it? Is the compressor running? when it shuts of is the compressor hot?

A refrigerator is a Heat pump in its operation & theory.

I need to know more, I would forget a board if it were mine and put an old electromechanical timer rather than the circuit board unless the boards cheap, if its $400 forget it.

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Hi, that makes sense. I did put an intermittent timer on it that restarted it every 15 minutes and that is working. A tech came by and diagnosed the problem as the motherboard, which is covered under the warranty.

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Dan さん、ありがとうございました!
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