How to open case of XPS 15 Power Adapter


My power adapter has started to make lots of switching noise and I also need to replace the cord.

The design is unfortunately curved and the seam is very thin. I’m struggling to work out how to open it up.

Any advice?

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6 件のコメント

Hi simv,

My adapter has the same noise, when i plug in jack to laptop, the noise will appear, plug out laptop the noise not appear. What's wrong with your adapter? Did you repair it? If yes, could you share with me how to repair it? The coil or capacitor has fail?

Looking forward to your feedback.

Thank you!


@taile I ended up destroying the case unfortunately (I intended on 3D printing a new case). They've basically filled the entire thing up with epoxy (or whatever it is). Even the components themselves are completely covered and inaccessible. I put it away in the 'deal with later' bin.

Anyone have any idea on how to remove the epoxy without damaging it?



Share more information with you

The seller gave to me another adapter and i see that the new one also has the noise but it is much smaller the old one. I think high ratio the pulse adapter have the noise because the transitor/coil on/off in very high frequency, it make the coil vibrates and make noise. This is the reason they must glue by expoxy to prevent vibrate of coil and components on the board.

Is expoxy hard or soft (like rubber)? You can try remove them by oil, spray oil on it and waite few minutes.


@taile @jayeff Have you or anyone else found a way in? I bought 2 and one of them was DOA. I'm able to keep it, so I may see if I can open it (or at least do an autopsy).

I no longer trust the good one with the intended system so I need to try again for that, but I'm okay with using the good one for a bag pack-in. I also have no hope in it being repairable due to how it failed (unstable DC voltage; did not stay on) so if I destroy it I destroy it.

EDIT: I'M PARTIALLY IN :-). Not completely yet, but I got past the end cap where the DC jack is installed. Let me think about if I should even detail it... I have the photos available so if you or @jayeff want them, I'll consider it.


I changed another adapter, and it still has very small noise. The pulse adapter usually has noise. But if the noise is very loud, we should check it. Up to now, i don't know how to remove its cover....






Hi @simeonv ,

Don’t know the adapter and cannot see it too well in your image but is there a seam running along the long side of the case, so that if open the case would be in two parts?

If not, ignore the following ;-)

If so, I’ve had about a 75% success rate in opening plastic welded cases using the following method. The other 25% of the attempts results in the case being broken.

Place a broad bladed tool such as a 1.5” paint scraper along the seam and then give it a short sharp tap with a hammer and check if the case splits open. The sharper the blade the better

You might find that the inner “lip” of the case at the seam is damaged but this is not seen when the case is re-assembled but the exterior is not cracked.

As I said 3 out of 4 attempts are successful and once the case has split open you can prise it open further etc if it hasn’t already split completely apart. The failed attempts end in the case cracking and small pieces having to be glued back in place (if possible)

When re-assembling the case just glue it shut but be careful which glue you use as some glues don’t stick plastics that well and I’ve even had a “supa glue” that actually seemed to melt the plastic as it went soft and it still didn’t stick.

Usually I just glue it with a glue used for gluing paper and wrap some strips of electrical tape tightly around the case to hold it shut.


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7 件のコメント:

Thank you @jayeff. I will try as you suggest - though in the meantime I will add some additional photos if you could kindly review in the meantime.


Hi @simeonv ,

It looks like a plastic weld seam along the side but first gently peel off the information label and check that there is no recessed screw under the label that may be holding it together and that they rest of the case is just snap fit lugs along the seam edge.

If there is no screw then try opening it as described above. Start at the end along the seam where the cord has a groove to lie in as shown in the bottom image.

Obviously you can break it if you tap it too hard so don't overdo it but also don't be too timid.

Also try not to make the tool go too far into the case as you might damage the components inside.

I realize that it isn't easy and I've made mistakes when doing this as each case is not the same as far as the strength of the plastic is concerned but the idea is that you're pulling the tool back at the same time as hitting it preventing it going in too far.

Hopefully you get what I'm saying.

Good luck ;-)


Hi jayeff,

Do you know which parts were fail in this case? I have the same adapter and have the same noise, when i plug in jack to laptop, the noise will appear, plug out laptop the noise not appear.



I don't know the circuit for the adapter, but usually when "noise" appears on the output it means that the filtering capacitors are leaky.

By this I don't mean that there is fluid coming out of them but that they allow through AC ripple currents into the DC path instead of shunting it away.

The best I can advise is check all the capacitors in the adapter. They might be smd type so it may be not so easy to know. Also having an ESR capacitor tester would definitely help but you would need to remove the capacitors to test them.



I refer some repairers and they said that the sound usually come from the coil, but it not mean the coil failure, the high oscillation of coild make the sound. The oscillation circuit has problem, we must to investigate more things to know which is failure part. However, I think your comment also right, the sound in my adapter looks like leaky current, it's small and high frequency. I hope ifix will have instruction to open this adapter in the near future.




Power adapters with terminal issues like this should be replaced, not repaired. If they go bad, it can/will damage the computer. Unless it's a low-end Walmart special or a really cheap "back to school" machine with a Pentium or i3, replace the adapter!

Instead, check if the adapter is under warranty and get it replaced by Dell (they tend to consider insulation damage "wear and tear" or abuse, so they will probably say no), or just swallow the cost and buy a new one -- preferably direct from Dell. It looks like your XPS looks uses the 90/130W adapters based on the size, which is normal with that series due to the extra power draw. Unless you have one of the few 65W capable ones on the lower end (lesser spec'd XPS 13, commonly), it’s usually minimum 90W. If you didn’t get it from Dell directly, scrap it and get one from Dell or a Dell reseller. A lot of the ones from places like eBay are fake - BUT be prepared to pay a noticeable premium.

It's one thing if it's just frayed - if there's no other issues and you have room to cut, I'll give you a pass if you cut an extra 1-2" off or pull a tested lead from another bad OEM charger with issues of similar spec - IF you solder and heatshrink it. Anything more is a risky repair.

However, there is definitely a way in - but the way it’s designed is such a far cry from the easy ones it’s not as easy as the old-style ones from the C/D/E and subsequent Inspiron series era. I tried and couldn't do it. The IEC end is in there GOOD; like it's glued and plastic welded.


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2 件のコメント:

Hi Nick,

You are right!

However, if the capacitor of output circuit failure (swell) we can change them without any risk. The most important is we must open the box without damage it. This is new model of adapter, and up to now i don't know how to open it.


@taile The problem is you have to test it every way possible to avoid being blamed for killing someone's laptop. The way the OP described it doesn't sound good.

Let's look at it from the perspective of many fixers who can fix them up. Repaired adapters are one of the reasons you see bad board machines, along with knockoffs. Outside of the cord, you're playing Russian roulette. People try and save a buck but find their laptop is terminally damaged and dump it for parts without telling the person considering it, even if it's as-is. You end up with these great looking systems hiding difficult to repair damage. If I know it happened after you repaired your adapter or used a knockoff, at least I know it's probably toast... But that never happens since I know to lower my offer as CYA.

I understand the desire to save money on an old machine but there's a limit. I draw the line at replacing thr power adapter (which you can carry over to a new machine). I don't need the adapter most of the time if you just bought it and don't want to lose whatever you spent on it, providing it's the fat tip. I don't have a slim tip, so that may be worth something to me.




simv さん、ありがとうございました!

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